Turn engine until each treating piston is BDC, fill the cylinder to top. On an inline 4, that would be 2 pistons at a time, etc. Within 12 hours all should leak down to pan. Turn engine, repeat for other 2. Any residual cleaner can be absorbed by cranking with a rag over spark plug bores. I would also recommend use only 0W-30 in these small engines, that rely on oil pressure for phasers, VANOS or VTEC systems.
Frankly I think any Toyota that has a risk of oil burning should switch to a PAO type oil like those found in the Castrol/Mobil "european formula" oils. You can usually get those oils on sale and they'll halve the oil consumption. People should try to reduce oil burning as much as possible unless they don't care to risk damaging their catalytic converter.
@@ositoelosito3424 not even going to lie it absolutely improved it immediately. the rattle noise went away, my rings unstuck and popped out like they were supposed to be and my car jumped from 16.4 mpg to 21.8 mpg so yea id say this ABSOLUTELY works. keep in mind it will never fix bad rings though but will absolutely help keep the oil issue at a minimum. i do this treatment every three months now. i do the intake, crank and fuel all the same day. definitely give it a try. you wont regret it thats for sure.
a quick way to do it is pour half a can of seafoam engine cleaner into your oil fill so it goes in the crankcase, put the other half in the gas tank to clean the injectors.Drive it 50-100 miles. Drain oil and change. It will clean all the carbon deposits from the intake and piston rings/oilers. Fixed the problem in ours and we do it every time, no more oil burning. Have over 160k on the motor now and still runs great.
I just completed my first 3000 miles after adding sea foam to the crankcase. Consumption has dropped by half, but the jury is still out until I go through another change or two. These are such a great car, but what I'd give for one more gear for the highway! 2010 XB, 5 speed manual, 96K.
I had a 2000 Tacoma I bought in June 2001 that I drove all the way up to Oct 2013 with 509k. Never used a drop of oil between oil changes. I changed oil every 3k with filter and full synthetic. Truck still ran perfectly and Toyota bought truck back from me due to a frame recall.
@@supersyx If it hadn't been for that recall, I seriously think I'd still be driving it. My problem now is, I can't afford a new car these days, and only get people's second hand cars that they haven't maintained properly. Finding a car with legit maintenance records is like trying to catch a tooth fairy. If people would just change that oil every 5k or less with synthetic oil, wouldn't have a lot of these oil burning issues.
@@GreatPlainsChaser this is a problem with this specific engine (2AZ-FE). Using synthetic will only delay the issue, but it will happen eventually. There is a TSB to change the pistons and rings with an updated design. Toyota know about the issue.
That's what I should have done to my sweet 2009 XB. I love that baby, but being a semi-careless, inexperienced driver, it lasted us for a 12 years and it's now showing signs of engine problems. I knew I should've taken care of it when the oil starts turning black. 😰
lol this is a toyota problem period. I have a prius and mine does it. I have saw people with Camrys have the oil consumption problem as well. This is my first time hearing someone with a scion having it but def believe it. I use seafoam a good bit and it has not helped for me at all. Give the car more power when you use it in the gas tank but once its all gone and you're own a new tank it goes back to normal. using it in the oil has did nothing at all. and you can see the sludge on the oil cap. I'm losing multiple quarts every 800 miles or so. My last resort is to try chem dip this way as my issue is super advanced and I have no idea how long its been driven this way.
Nice brother definitely worth the try before spending the money on a new motor. Please reach back out after I'm interested on hearing your story. As for me my engine is still doing very well with no oil consumption issues I'm getting about 3000 miles maybe a 1/2 a qt. low.
First check for any oils leaks. I did this on mine and it make it better but still losing oil until my clutch gave out and when replacing the flywheel I noticed the a leak on the rear main seal after replacing the seal now the car gets better oil consumption.
Exactly it is a last resort option but when you're facing a new engine of $3000 job this is definitely worth as a last ditch effort but it works other people are having the same proven results. this is not advice. do what you want this is only information. Thanks for the comment
@@supersyx If anyone is having this high level of oil burning like this, your solution for the 2az-fe engine is the quickest I’ve come across. Definitely referring others to watch this video if they are burning a quart of oil every 500-600 miles. Thanks!!
My motor runs like it doesn't even have an oil consumption problem, but ever tank full I'm down a quart,. I like this car very much, it hasn't left me stranded yet. Sure I might put another engine in it, but this motor runs way to good for that at the moment.
My 2004 Matrix XR 1zzfe is burning oil between 0.25 to 0.55 quarts per 3k miles OCI depending if I were to drive in city or on highway. I flushed the crap out of it like over 10 times already. Lots of black bubble-gum-like hard carbon craps came out at around the sixth flush. I might try this method as I am pretty sure the oil rings are caked up. Folks use high-quality oil and filter.
Great video man. Couple details....ChemTool Engineers say that the dissolving agents evaporate after 45mins. So if you want a 4hr soak....you remove the original liquid at 45mins... Add new....remove after 45mins...add new. The Chem engineers straight up said anything past 45mins soak, won't do any additional. Also.....I compared, ChemDip, ChemTool, and Marvel....all on the same engine, with all stuck oil rings. ChemTool by far did better than ChemDip (which works, just not as good) Marvel...didn't dissolve anything. Also....use waaay more than 1oz....You want to keep the piston fully submerged. ...IMPORTANT.... When piston soaking like this, your cylinders are completely dry. Do a lubrication soak(Marvel Mystery) after doing the Chem soak.. to prevent destroying your rings or cylinder war from now lube.
@@supersyx you don't start the engine with fluid in the cylinders. You use a siphon pump and a small hose to vac it out.... You don't move the engine at all, since everything will be super dry from the ChemTool soak. You siphon each amount out, after 45mins....until you've done multiple soaks...let's call it 4hrs worth, so 4 soaks... Then you Marvel Mystery oil soak it.... To lube the completely dry cylinder walls..... You siphon this out, as well... Then...you spin the engine by hand, fully lubricate the cylinders. You NEVER use the starter to spin the engine, until after you have added lubrication by doing the Marvel soak. And ONLY use the starter, to spin the engine....with spark plugs still removed.....once you have siphoned the liquid out. Only after the siphoning, and blowing the remaining liquid out with with spark plugs removed.... Only then.... do you install the plugs, and crank the engine
@@supersyx “use the starter to spin the engine” as in use the key like u’d normally start a car, or talking about some other complicated technique. I’m a rookie, so sorry if this sounds really stupid question.
Also I want to add when the chem dip is inside the cylinder there's really no air flow to help it evaporate in 45 minutes. I'm telling you when trying to start the car the cylinders are still very wet
@@selwyn13 Great question and yes use your starter to spin the cylinders with no coil packs and spark plugs in your motor the car absolutely cannot start. it will only spin around. So after the solutions soaking period try to start your car with no spark plugs or ignition coils connected. This will make the piston move up and down to help move the solution around for the next soaking period
Hey if it cleans the sludge and build up from the pistons cool, but after using a couple times per oil change does it effect the other seals? I heard it might so I'm guessing once your oil consumption lessens ease off using Chem dip every 2 or 3 oil changes and for sure half ounce chemicals dip them on. Right? What you think?
my wife car burns about 1 quart every couple weeks, its getting annoying, I'll have to try this otherwise looking at a rebuild I guess or just get rid of the damnd thing. its been a really really good reliable car though and long long ago paid off so id like to keep it around a while longer.
This is called a piston soak and dealers do this too. What car, engine and how many miles on car? It works many times for stuck oil rings. but if you have a different problem...nope.
Are you checking the oil when it’s cold or when it’s at operating temps? I just bought the XB last week but I did a compression test and the cylinders were all 180 psi so my rings are nicely seated and no head gasket issue luckily. I have not seen mine burn any oil and I’m only using 5W30 full synthetic oil. I hope mine stays good but I want to use marvel mystery
If u don’t have an air compressor, can I clean out my leaf blower real well, then point that directly over the spark plug holes and blow on med-max speed to clean it out? Or would that not cut it?
I'm pretty sure you can do it with a leaf blower, but you need to watch out for dust and other crap from your leaf blower going inside of your engine. That would be my concern
I'm convinced the best way to fix this problem is drill bigger And extra holes on your piston rings so the oil won't get stuck to easy with the carbon and sludge clogging it up
This is 2022, in the last decade nearly all manufacturers have designed engines to burn oil. The reason being is they've loosened up the tolerances to get better fuel mileage. The manufacturer these engines today they're not going to tell you that but it is true.
That's not why they burn oil. They don't 'design' them to burn oil, it just so happens that they're burning oil due to certain choices being made. You're probably not aware but for warranty purposes since the beginning of time, auto manufacturers considered burning 1 qt every 800-1200 miles "acceptable" even though most here would agree that's not acceptable. The reason they came up with that mileage interval for oil burning being considered 'acceptable' is because the EPA considers 150K miles as 'lifetime' so that plus the fact that many cars do not have emission warranties exceeding 80K miles, the manufacturer is off the hook when their cars start fouling up the catalytic converters from the oil burning. As for WHY they burn oil, it's because they're using oil change intervals that are too long and viscosities that are too thin. It's also true most manufacturers have switched to low tension oil control rings which does increase the risk of oil burning but this can be mitigated substantially by changing the oil more frequently and using a higher quality oil. As for why manufacturers made these choices? Because they get incremental improvements in fuel economy on the EPA fuel economy test cycle which either reduces the number of credits the manufacturer has to purchase from another manufacturer to meet the fleet fuel economy requirements or they're able to sell/bank their excess credits to other manufacturers. Manufacturers also get environmental "bonus points" for increasing oil change intervals though I can't remember under which program that occurs. It's these same reasons why you have "lifetime" transmission fluid..."bonus points" + transmission failure is outside of warranty period = Not their problem. Summary: Thin oil + Long Oil change intervals = Saving/Earning money for the manufacturer because of environmental greenwashing initiatives/EPA fuel economy credits and increase in repairs at dealerships, increase in frequency of vehicle replacement. Do I believe extended oil change intervals are possible? Yes, but not with the crappy, thin, "synthetic" (Synthetic in the USA isn't required to be PAO like it is in Europe) and not without doing used oil analysis.
Maybe change the gasket and whatever seals possible once every 1.5 years? When using Chem dip like after 3 times. Heard it may eat up seals? What you think?
Yes you're right it is very much possible other seals can be eaten up but when you're facing a rebuilt motor and a lot of money that people do not have this is another Priceless option people can try.
Pouring Chem dip into the cylinder will not affect any seals, there are no seals in the cylinder. Get the engine hot, pour in the chem dip let sit for 2-3 hrs. Vacuum out the chem dip and spin the engine over with plugs removed. When the cylinder is dry start the engine. Then spray a can of intake cleaner into the intake manifold. Pour a pint of diesel fuel into the oil and lety run for about 5-10 minutes at idle. Change the oil. Then drive it normal and keep checking to see how far you can drive before using 1 qt of oil.
@1:20 turning the engine over will spit the solvent out so not much left to blow out later. Perhaps it would be better to turn the crank by hand with a wrench. Probably wouldn't even be an issue if full synthetic had been used instead of dinosaur oil or synthetic blends, and then the changes could be extended from 3K miles to 5K miles.
That's a great opinion, turning the crank by hand will work better. I only use synthetics But I was keeping my intervals between engine oil changes around 2500 miles to keep the engine oil as clean as possible. Remember we have an issue with stuck piston rings so we need to keep the engine oil as clean as possible
Great question this treatment can be performed on any vehicle. Just be caution your at your own risk. Driving a car with that many miles, change your oil every 2500 miles.
Thanks for the question brother the car has been running great save my engine save $3,000 no more oil consumption now I get about 2500 miles before I need to add a quart of oil before I did the oil consumption I was getting one quart of oil for every 400 miles
@@ThatEEguy2818 no . I did about two treatments. When my mileage was increasing without adding oil I know it was starting to work. Brother when your facing a new or rebuild . I was not tripping if it didn't work but it did and saved a ton. Don't put as much parts cleaner as I did . It becomes harder to start.
@@ThatEEguy2818 if you really have this condition as bad as this seafoam wont do shit. Chem dip is not intended for this and is on the extreme last measure all or nothing list. This is last resort. If you have other options I would not recommend trying this first. This stuff is super strong! Seafoam is more of a preventative care thing. something you should or could probably use every oil change. chem dip on the other hand should not be used too often once your problem is fixed it best to move to something like seafoam or lucas or liqui moly.
Technically they cannot fix it. They replace the piston rings and pistons with the same poor design therefore the problem will return with time. The ring design coupled with extended recommended oil change intervals is the problem. I have one of these engines and the best thing you can do to prevent this problem is to change your oil at 3000 miles and use quality synthetic oil that has a low evaporation rate such as Amsoil signature.
@@anunpopularstance interesting, it’s been over 5 years since the repair and the car is not burning oil after the repair. I also constantly check the levels. It’s still going strong.
