Tell us, do you actually roast coffee at home? Is it something you plan on doing? Please share your experience below! 🔴 This video is sponsored by Artisan Green Bean! Supplier of specialty grean beans for home roasters and micro roasteries in Europe. Ask for a price list 👉 www.artisangreenbean.com 🛒 Special offer if you buy the Behmor 2000AB from Artisan, you get 2kg of Colombian specialty green beans for free (code: ACGBEHJ2221242025) 👉 geni.us/behmor-europe TIMESTAMPS: 0:00 Behmor 2000AB Plus Review 0:46 Behmor 2000AB Plus Unboxing 1:30 AD: Artisan Green Beans 2:12 Step 1: Preheating the machine 3:32 Step 2: Roasting coffee (control panel) 6:36 Step 3: Cooling 7:47 Evaluating roasted coffee 8:25 Light roast vs Dark roast 10:58 Brewing & tasting coffee 12:03 Behmor 2000AB Summary
I use a Kaldi Wide 300g on a gas stove. I really recommend this set up to roast with the same technology as professionals. Of course you won't have professional capabilities but you can play with the roast profile in a very wide aray of fashions, which you can't with semi automated systems. Unfortunately, there is a bit of a steep learning curve and upgrading the temperature sensor, choosin an accurate gas stove and purchasing an airflow unit are a must to approach professional quality results.
I am from Ethiopia and own a small Ethiopian coffee trailer. I just purchased this and roasted my first batch. Your video is awesome. I was confused on which P to press 😂😂 Thank you
I've been using the Behmor for a couple of years now and get amazing results from it. I have more than 100 roasts on it - a little bit of practice goes a long way. One suggestion, leave the chaff tray in while you're heating it up. That way you don't have to have to reheat so much. You get farther along to the drying phase. Nice review as always. Thanks a bunch.
@@boredymcboredface8624 tbh, I wish I knew. There are so many things to look for to get a good event roast its hard to pin point which one will you fail it ( when done manually). You have to be seasoned roaster to get a good event roast each time, you need to be able to understand the cracks properly each time and understand what that really means. Thats just one of the few reasons I still trust my local roasters as they have some crucial settings dialed with professional roasting equipment which most home roasters still lack or can't justify to put in at a reasonable cost.
I began roasting coffee at home in 1985, in a little two cup roaster and when it died, nine years ago I replaced it with the first Gene Cafe machine, with which I've been very satisfied. At the time, it was similarly priced to the then Behmor model. The Gene has a temperature control and a timer, no frills, no presets, nothing like that so all adjustments are made on the fly, according to what I observe. For me, it means that I never get the exact same roast twice, but I'm not concerned, I don't mind surprises in this regard. Results are always satisfactory, occasionally a bit special. I avoid any cooling cycle, dumping the beans, immediately at the end of the roast, into a large fine wire sieve, cooling the beans and losing any remaining chaff, by pouring the beans into another sieve from a height, then back and so on for a minute or two, allowing the beans to cool in the air, in the sieve after that. So far, so good. Works for me. Now I probably wouldn't do it any other way. As far as I can see, the Behmor's quieter, but other than that, I still like the Gene better, from what I can see. The difference between freshly home roasted beans to buying roasted beans elsewhere was obvious, right from the beginning.
This will be my next roaster. I started last July 2021 using a cheap $80 horizontal roaster which died a month ago. I ordered another similar one which just arrived. (They are sort of like a popcorn cooker). But I had my recipe down with 3/4 lb of green beans for 12 minutes. But once that second cheap roaster dies I will bet the Behmor- the video really sold me. I wish I'd seen it before ordering the second cheapie
My Roast protocol using the Behmor. 1. I preheat my Machine. I.e. I run it through one cycle on P1. Chaff Tray in. 2. 325gms of Beans in Drum. 3. Preheat Machine with Chaff Tray in to 100C. I position the Machine propped up at front by 50mm to improve element position to Drum. I've found this to be better in terms of consistency of Roast. 4.I quickly put the Drum in. 5. Start Roast with following button press procedure; 400gm , Program #1, start. Change to P5 Manual ( 100%), slow Drum Speed until 5:45. Change to fast Drum Speed. (N.B. from 4:00 - 6:40, toggle between P4 (75%) and P5(100%) butttons at 10 sec increments to maintain temp between 154 and 157C). 6. @ 5:45 - 6:00, change to fast Drum Speed. 7. First Crack @ 9:45 - 10:00 ( ambient outside Temp @ 16-18C. ) 8. Allow First Crack to roll with full Heat for 15 seconds then reduce to P3 ( 50%) and slow Drum Speed for remainder of Development Time. (16-20% depending on Bean Origin. ) 9. I quickly remove Drum at 10 secs prior to desired Development Time % and cool Beans externally. I agitate the Beans with a large whisk over a cooling Fan for 2 minutes to cool and remove remaining Chaff from Beans.
Wow, thanks for sharing your details roasting protocol! That will be so hateful for many home coffee roasters watching this video. We will definitely test it out for the future batches!
Thanks for the details. Just getting into roasting w the Behmor and was curious what the reasons are for changing drum speeds as you do? Also, how are you calculating development time %?
@@matthewmorganphoto using the faster drum speed on manual 5 prevents scorching as the beans are moving much faster and not exposed to peripheral direct heat as much.
@@andybudge8555 Are you then not worried about scorching in the beginning stages when you’re using the slower drum speed? And what advantage does the slower drum speed have during those two times when you use it? Does it help develop the bean more?
I preheat for two minutes empty, then insert drum with 200 gr. of beans and chaff collector. Drying phase is always 6 minutes at max. heat. Dependent on the bean (altitude and whether washed or natural) I might turn the heat down to 75%. After another 6 minutes (close to first crack) I turn the heat down to 50% unless it’s a very hard bean - then I keep the heat setting at 75%. At first crack I increase the drum speed. I rarely let it run for more than 60 seconds after FC. Cooling is done externally in a box with a vacuum cleaner attached. I find the roaster very easy to use and very convenient but the cooling is a bit of a let down. Also it annoys me that the heat elements give of so much light that you really can't judge the color of the beans - at least not in the early stages (drying and browning).
I just started roasting with a popcorn machine and I would ask is this or the gene cafe a better option considering future forays into making my own profiles?
Honestly, I'd skip the Gene roater. The cooling is long and you can't help it with opening the drum door. A lot of the times, roasts bake because of that.
I have studied this and IMHO the low price choice would be the Fresh Roast SR 800. Fluid bed style but easy to hear and see. Without a trier good visibility is critical as well as good cool down options. Close to 1/2 price. If I get into it, the M2 would be the sweet spot. But I am seriously considering roasting not because there aren’t great roasts out there, but rather green beans are so stable…and roasts aren’t. I really feel like roast coffee starts to lose the fruit notes after a couple of weeks. Makes ordering in freshly roasted coffee very difficult. This puts the power back in my hands.
I have home roasted for 15 years with a Gene Cafe roaster and I love it. In the first couple years I went through a couple of fans on the unit and then the manufacturer upgraded the fan quality and I haven't had a problem since. It is easy to use and I get excellent results. I use it on top of my kitchen stove and use the overhead exhaust vent to take care of the smoke. It traps the chaffe very well in the exhaust duct which can be dumped after 4 batches. Roasting Ethiopian to a city roast takes about 20 minutes including 10 minutes of drying at 365ºF and then roasting at 471ºF for 6 minutes and then cool down. I buy my beans at Burman Coffee Traders.
@@EuropeanCoffeeTrip It's not that bad... I'm looking into home coffee roasters. This thing uses 1630 Watts if you use it 2 hours per week with an average electricity price of 0.32€ per kWh it will cost you just under 55€ per year. Maybe if you roast all your coffee it will be expensive.
I graduated from Behmour to Bullet R1 V2 roaster! After using the oven like roaster. I extremely loath it! When you preheat the machine, you need to have drum preheat inside. When it’s ready, you need to pull out the drum and pour the beans then put it back in. Do you see the problem? After pulling the drum out and pouring the beans in. You are double lowering the temperature the moment it exposes to ambient temperature! Pouring the beans already lower the drum temp and when you are fiddling it by trying to put it back it. The preheat temperature already drops significantly. It totally defeated the purpose of doing the entire ritual! Plus you can’t see the bean color with the orange light!
I use the old bread-maker and heat-gun (Corretto) method of home roasting. With temp probes in both the airflow and bean mass I can monitor via the free Artisan software.
As someone who roasts on a popcorn machine, I want to up my game with a proper home roaster. Behmor looks good, but not being able to have a lot of manual control over heat and drum speed bugs me. Looking at the reviews, the Fresh Roast SR series is really interesting, but unfortunately, they are not being produced for Europe (only for US power output).
I watched the designer and owner of the company roast a batch. When it came to the cool down period, he said just turn off the machine, open the door and allow it to cool on its own. He said he can not tell the difference in the taste cooling down the coffee of just allow it to cool with the door open and NO fan running.
What's the air filtration like? I could be overblowing this, but I'm under the impression that the smoke released from roasting being highly carcinogenic (hence why you see photos of commercial roaster staff wearing hardcore gas masks). Did you notice any smoke in the room while using this? Does it have some sort of air filter in the device? Is this even a concern in a home setting?
AFAIK degassing works only to reduce overflowing espresso crema. In case of pour over, it cannot produce significant amount of crema hence no need degassing. Source: one of hoffman video, can’t remember which one
What you did there was incorrect. You have to leave the drum empty in the machine while preheating it. When the preheat is reached, you then pull out the drum and pour the beans in and stick it back in! That’s what I absolutely hate about it!!!
You do not have to do this, you can preheat without the drum then add the drum after preheating. It even states this in the manual. Though I would keep the chaff collector in during preheat.
@@playnicegamesif you put the beans in the drum during preheat, then it totally defeats the purpose of preheating. It will mess up the entire roasting process. Because preheating is almost roasting the beans by increment heat. The drum has to be hot enough to roast the beans, otherwise you are slow cooking the beans. That’s why when I mention about after preheating to the right temperature, you pull out the drum, and put the beans in, the drum unfortunately exposed to outer temperature which will affect the temperature of the drum and that’s what I meant about messes up the roasting process!
The process of coffee roasting produce diacetyl which could cause irreversible lung hardening and cancer. Something to consider if you intend to do it at home. Avoid going into cafes that roast indoor too.
I've been looking for this comment! Go and look at images of good professional roasters. It's no surprise the staff wear proper respirator masks while roasting, even with good ventilation.
Diacetyl can cause "poprcorn lung" a very rare disease if you inhale LARGE amounts of diacetyl on a regular basis, this was observed in the early 2000's where popcorn factory workers had the diesease but there is no link between diacetyl and lung cancer whatsoever! Microwave popcorn can produce perfluorinated compounds from the bag material itself, these can cause cancer in high amounts, please don't splice together random bits information that you found on google and present it as fact.