Due to a work injury and lack of a workspace, I had to store some of my tools in an uninsulated, non climate controlled shed at my parents' farm. Here is Missouri it gets really humid and temperatures vary from over 100° to below 0°. My cast iron surfaces were completely covered in light surface rust after a year or two. Rust free cleaned it off really easily. Then I covered them with T-9. They sat there for several years and didn't rust at all after the T-9 treatment.
I’ve been worried about what I’m going to do when I retire, now I know. Screw around in my work shop all day! Thanks for using your beautiful table saw in these experiments for our viewing pleasure
Great series! Thanks so much for including us in your long experiment. I'm in Houston Texas - likely a very similar rust environment to yours. I have been losing this rust battle for DECADES. You're right, paste wax is completely and utterly worthless in an environment like this. I will immediately begin my long, drawn out effort to find what works best for me using the products you mentioned in your final video. Thanks-a-ton for the huge head start you have given me in this endeavor.
This has been a wonderful and enlightening series. I appreciate all the effort you went through to help us with some great shortcuts to our lazy lives as well. Like you I want to use the tools and keep them in great shape but not have to spend all my time doing the latter. Great!
Great stuff Rob. You sure did a lot of research to save me a lot of time and work. I am glad to know that you also see the value in the extra storage gained by having a table saw in the shop. 😀👍
I have used Bostik Topcoat/Glidecoat for over 20 years and have had zero rust issues. Though I have not used T9, Topcoat is a slicker surface than the paste wax I have tried.
Tre-wax for me, appears to be more durable than Johnson’s. I think Tre-Wax dries with a harder finish. I’ve used it since 1962, trying many alternatives throughout the years.
thanks for another update on this, i am very much fascinated by this series you have made about the protection. i have a question that is completely unrelated to that though... i couldn't help but notice your plane holder. behind you in this video. do you have a video on making that?
Mr Franklin, thank you for this. Very informative. and interesting. Have you thought about using good ol' garden variety "3n1 oil"? It's what I use now after I watched a Paul Sellers video using a "rag-in a can" video some years ago. I've since switched from Boeshield products to 3n1. I had a pile of junk steel screw drivers. I derusted all of them using steel wool and the same T9 rust remover you did. I coated with several products including T9, 3n1, WD40, Johnson's Wax, and a few other things, then left them out doors for about 2 weeks. The 3n1 came out on top for my needs. I live in NE FL about 400' away from the Atlantic Ocean and the humid salt air gets into my garage and eats cast iron and steel tools. The 3n1 outlasted the T9 (which I had been using for years) by a fair amount - enough so that I switched to it altogether. At the forefront of my workbench is a "rag in a can" and another jar with 3n1 soaked tshirt rags. I give all my tools, blades, bits, etc - a quick wipe with these rags after every use and have all but eliminated rust problems. Another good thing is that the coating is so light, it doesn't (so far, that is) transfer to wood surfaces in such a way that it causes fish-eye effect when finishing wood. Your philosophies mirror mine. Cheap and lazy!!! And my tools are far from professional grade, but I take care of them and they work and last for the most part. You got a SUBSCRIBE from me! Thank you again.
I too, have a rag in a can, and use it on my hand planes before every use. I didn't mention this in the videos because you just reminded me, but I also use the rag in a can on my old jointer before every use. It works very well, and the surfaces are rust free. Talking to a lot of other woodworkers, I think the real answer on which product is best, boils down to how often are you going to do tool maintenance. Obviously, guys a hundred years ago didn't have access to the products we have today, but that doesn't mean they worked with rusty tools - they just had to maintain them. Thanks for the comment and the subscription.
Great video Franklin thank you for the information thank you for the recommendation second how's your arm doing and 3rd when are you going to show us some more guitar playing can't wait for the next video
Thanks for the kind words. My arm is fully recovered thanks to fine doctors and vigorous rehab. I'm currently working on a collaboration music video with MaconStuff and Joe Pierce Maker. Hopefully it will be out soon.
All of my cast iron tops are a dark gray, not the silver colour that your tops are but they are smooth and slick. Am I missing something or is it just my tops the newest of them is from the 60' the oldest is from the 30's the all have had rust on them at some time while I have owned them cleaned with steel wool, fine sand paper, ... They used to winter in an unheated garage rust was a problem, now live in a heated shop. FYI one more vote for Boeshield T-9 no rust even when the heat was out in the shop for 2 weeks with high humidity and wild temperature fluctuations.
You're not missing anything at all. Really old cast iron can develop that beautiful dark patina. My Powermatic Jointer has the dark patina, but all my other tools are relatively new - less than 4 years old. You're obviously doing something right, and T-9 is a great product. I'm a walking contradiction - I'm lazy, but very meticulous about my tools. I'm just searching for an easy solution.
I'm sticking with the Collinite. Johnson's, as you say, will work fine, if you're diligent but, Collinite works on EVERYTHING!...and it lasts longer. Nice, fair and honest video...thanks.
Collinite is great, but…does it have silicone in it? Silicone makes it hard to finish wood surfaces, and having it on shop tools will spread everywhere when putting wood through the tools. I’ve been thinking of getting a tin, but not sure about the silicone part.
@@armandosinger I haven't see a mention of silicone on the website, reviews or the SDS sheet. The only caution is pointed out on the can referencing the presence of Petroleum Distillates that could cause skin dryness or irritation. The SDS sheet seems to say that the condition would happen after four hours of contact. Not likely going to happen in our use conditions. I do an entire Pick-Up truck using my bare hands as the applicator with no skin reactions. I haven't had any finishing issues that I could track back to the use of Double Coat Wax.
@@TheJimsock yeah the silicone would not show up on the SDS because it’s not harmful. The reason woodworkers ban silicone from their shops is because it prevents finishing from sticking and curing properly (nothing wants to stick to it). And silicone easily spreads from one surface to another, such as from the surface of a waxed tool. I use a lot of silicone containing products on my car as well, but try to follow the woodworker’s advice to keep it away from the wood shop.
Enjoyed your videos on rust protection. Very informative about something I've been trying to prevent for a long time. And I do get glue on the saw top......
For ease of use and great protection, Fluid Film is ideal for the region. I know it's sold at Lowes and O'reilly's Auto parts. One 10 dollar can will last me about 3 years.
@@FranklinWoodWorks2016 It doesn't completely soak in the way boiled linseed oil would. I apply Fluid Film, spread it evenly, leave it on 24 hours or so then wipe off access.
I live less than 1 mile from Gulf of Mexico, on Texas coast. High humidity, temp changes and a non climate controlled shop plays havock on table saw and jointer, band saw. NOTHING i've tried works more than one or two weeks for rust prevention... Is there any hope for this ?
Have you tried Fluid Film? I would put on a heavy coat and let it dry over night. Let me know how that goes. One thing to consider, rust tends to be like cancer, if you don't get it all, it can grow. I'd sand things down with 220 in using a random orbital sander, clean it off with WD40, then sand again with a sanding block or palm sander with 500 grit wet or dry using WD40 as the lube. Then try the Fluid Film.
if you are not using the tools for the winter, why not just put on a couple coats of good spray paint, that would probably protect better than any of the products mentioned
T9 has let me down. Every one of the cast iron tops from my table saw to my planner, drill press, every tool that was cleaned and then sealed with T9 has rust. Not from moisture in the air. But from hand prints from sweaty hands. Damn son in law sweats so bad. Saw repair company told me not to use T9 but I did it anyways and now I am cleaning rust off of machines that are only a year old. Grrr
I'm disappointed to hear that. A ton of woodworkers use the T9 for off-season storage, but maybe their environment is a little different. You can't go wrong with Fluid Film.
I do. I live in southern Ontario Canada and we have high humidity and below freezing from November till mid March. I don’t have a heated garage and only work in there if I have to during the winter.
i take all of my chisels and Japanese hand saws into my bedroom for the winter . my wife looks at me like i'm completely insane . unfortunately , she's right .
The ultimate solution is to move to the desert .😂 i use to live in a very low humidity area and never did anything to my table saw, jointer etc. of course not many people have that luxury . Maybe a de humidifier would help, along with the things you mentioned ?
I don't see my comment so I'll answer you here...htc tool covers help a lot. That is the company name. They are gray breathable covers for machinery. I became sold on them when I was in a friend's garage and he had no rust on his drill press. He said it was there for 20 years but covered with the HTC cover...we live in northern Indiana and have extreme changes of weather. I immediately purchased a few. You can look them up online.
