Single best thing Jeff has taught me over the years?? That there is a big difference between managing land for timber value, and managing land for deer.
Thanks Jeff!! My property is old growth pines and oak. The pines here in East Tennessee look like telephone poles with the canopy starting at about 40-50 feet. Hardly any undergrowth. Time to let in a little sunlight😎
Just bought property and have found a gold mine of persimmon trees, over 100 or so, in patches and individuals. Been cleaning vines and competition around the trees and hoping that will help produce more fruits. One quick tid bit of info, not all persimmon trees fruit, just females. Thanks Jeff for awesome info, as always applying to property
Another great video Jeff. Looking forward to seeing how this fall goes with all the improvements made on my 50 acres. Added white pine, cut 8 acres of red maple, created hinge cuts, and building food plots for the fall. Eventually I will ad some soft mass trees. -Adam Fox
Yeah makes perfect sense brother yeah we had the ash deal hit here awhile back little piles of sawdust looks like piled up on the tree pine beetles hit here several years ago and wiped out a lot of big pine tracts for miles in places great video as always brother be safe out there and GOD BLESS you and your family and crew brother Amen 🙏
Real good vid once again Jeff! Populs sure do grow back fast weve got a few patches of it and usually cut 4-5 facecord a year just to mix it in with better firewood,and its suprising how quik its popul trees again.
I have a 10 acre area on my family farm that was almost entirely white Ash that the emerald ash borers wiped out. It's now mostly ash regeneration and box elders that have moved in and has made the best habitat on the property.
Just ordered my trees today. I’m planting Dunstan Chestnuts, American Persimmon, Southern Crabapple, Mulberry, Wildlife Pear and Sawtooth Oak. Expanding my food plots this season and want to compliment them with these trees. Thanks for the advise.
William, I follow a RU-vid channel called Lake Erie Chestnuts. He seems to be the subject matter expert at my location. He has plenty of videos on RU-vid and also a Facebook page.
One thing I can say on my lease there’s plenty of white oaks and red oaks there’s a few black oaks to there was a lot of white oak acorns there this year
Jeff. We have couple dozen big willows. Should they stay or go? We have a 100 acre parcel that we are setting up just for deer hunting. In Lenawee county Michigan. Thanks Jeff All your videos are full with great information !!!!
when you speak of states for planting trees, glass etc could you use the zone designation instead so it would be applicable to a bigger audience ie; this tree will grow in zone 6... Thanks
We have alot of hemlock groves- we also have alot of mature oaks and hickory, birch and beach- most high stem cover habitat is on the neighbors property but they do not allow hunting - I have never seen nuts on the beach trees though. All of our ash seem to dying from that beatle The conservancy property I hunt has acres of beach regrowth-4-8 feet high about as thick as your finger-
Here in west tenn no more food plots im geting to old to plant good trees take to long so i focas on re genaration and beding so i just hunt escape routs and presurd deer from nabers bin on a roll last two years check out my little. Vid deer hunting west tenn grate advice as allways out a here
Crab apples seem to be the best for early and mid archery hunting. I hurt apples up to mid archery here in pa. And i see deer every day on public land. Sometimes i have 20 to 30 deer in the area. But soon as all the apples drop. The deer vanish. So the last of archery and into rifle hunting. I hit the oak trees hard. And i don't see as many deer. But there are alot of oak trees in the area. So they have alot choices. After Christmas and all the acorns have dropped. I find the greenbrier patches to be the best locations to find some deer.
QUICK question I am purchasing shrubs for spring Elderberry, Serviceberry, Red Osier Dogwood and the like would these be best placed in bedding, transition, or food plot edges? I’m thinking food plot edges for screening? Thanks for the videos👍
I don't have hardwoods to regenerate, most of it's black locust which deer seem to nibble thornless summer tips only. So I actually have ordered more raspberries to compliment the black raspberries in the bedding area. Hopefully they'll survive. They relish my garden ones!
Mr. Jeff could you do a video on how smaller weather patterns affect deer movements. For example heavy frost fog etc. I’ve heard some people say don’t hunt in the fog some people say deer are more comfortable in the fog because it’s like a natural cover I was curious of your opinion.
Jeff what was your comment on ash trees where emerald bore is present or coming soon? They only go after the bigger diameter trees? So if you have a stand of two to three inch diameter ash trees it would be a good idea to hinge cut those?
Jeff can you do a video for if you think minerals is worth spending money on for small parcels in the spring and summer. If so what do you feel is really beneficial
Is there a conifer or switchgrass that you have seen to do well in mostly to full shade areas? Thank you for all the information that you provide. It is truly impressive sir!
Have been reading all about how great chestnuts are. In particular Dunsten Chestnuts which I believe are grown in north Florida. Do you think this would work to plant these in Northern Illinois? Rock Island County along the Mississippi River.
Love your videos. Have a question. Is it common for deer to eat berries, besides strawberries out of the garden. Lol. Two trees you didn't mention is mulberry or choke cherry. I know they are both plentiful in Wisconsin. Thank you for your time.
Jeff really enjoy your stuff, I own 50 acres in middle Georgia. Question/ what’s your recommendation on creating more attractive bedding areas in planted pines? 10-15 year old pines. Thanks
Outlaws thanks for reply- they are not super thick and don’t have much browse of course. I thought about selectively cutting and doing something like that. Thanks
I know it is generally frowned upon but I like to transplant Autumn Olive to establish pockets of bedding around my switch grass plantings. Great video.
What could I add to a cattail swamp in SW Michigan for browse and treestand locations? Currently plenty of red osier dogwood for browse but no large enough trees that are alive for a stand.
Nice topic! We have aspen/poplar regenerating out into an open field adjacent to our food plot... mature enough now that it is not browse and we will be cutting it down, just like you described. What would you do with the brush? Piles, burn it? Any value to drag it into the adjacent hardwood? Thanks!
There's an area in south NJ (pine barrens)and another in the southern counties of Maryland's eastern shore that look about 90% pine tree's- & some big bucks living in them as of lately. I wonder if it's from all the corn feeders, and the tons of corn most hunters use in those areas, almost everyone baits heavy. Perhaps combination of less guys hunting these days.
I see them really hitting honey suckle December through January and it makes good cover how do you feel about starting it around food plot or hinge cut areas
What does a guy do if he has a small parcel with little to no hardwood timber but littered with cedar trees with Prarie grass but the neighbors have just hardwoods
Hi Jeff, I have a 30 acre river bottom property where I lost about 30 percent of the woods to ash borer. Should I just remove all of the trees? I guess you could say they are in a staging area close to my neighbors crop fields. The weed growth was incredible this last year just from the sun light lol.
Hi Jeff, I live in North Idaho and on my 20 acre parcel I have a lot of Western Red Cedar, Birch, Dog Wood, Douglas Fir, Grand Fir, Lodge Pole Pine, White Pine, Tamarack, blue Spruce, Englemann Spruce and Giant red woods (which were here when we bought our property in July of last year). Is this a good diversity for Whitetails? We also have a creek running through our Cedar grove where the does love to bed on the bottom of the cedar grove and the bucks about 75-100 yards on top of the hill just above the cedars.
I have a small section of red pines on our property that has been slowly dying off. For the last few years now we are taking them down and replacing them with white pines. Since we have been opening up so much of the ground that weeds have been growing taller than our saplings. This has caused a few of them to die off and some haven't been growing good. What would be a good ground cover to plant that wont cover our saplings and allow them to grow without hurting their growth? Thanks
Jeff, great info. Thanks for sharing. Question, what type of fruit trees due you recommend? Do you suggest semi dwarf or standard size apple trees and exactly what species? thanks, Bob PS...still seeing lots of bucks hitting the vines, not many antlers dropping yet.
@@brianjonker510 all my deer rub pine trees. And don't have anything to do with alders. Maybe they use alders for cover. I live in Vermont where they try to destroy deer population. Bad biologist running the program
I've heard about planting a variety of apple/crab apple trees to get soft mass for a longer duration of the season (mature at different times). You buy that, or would you pick one or two to plant? Favorite species?
Figured I'd chime in. Good question btw...coming from my Horticulture profession, remember a couple of things. Plant diversity is hugely important regarding plant disease. If you plant one or even two varieties you are really opening the door to disease. Always choose varieties based on their tolerance of fungal diseases such as apple scab or rusts. They will defoliate a tree and hinder the mast production. Secondly, be conscious of planting multiple species of crabapple/apple due to many varieties of these trees needing a pollinator plant. Good looking trees with no cross pollination equals limited mast.
@@sambilhorn9282 I planted crab apple and pears. Did mix in whatever Lowes had on sale at the end of season to get variety of drop times. Crab apples are very hardy. You want a crab apple as big as a ping pong ball or bigger not ornamental/flowering type. And pears In general just seem hardier than domestic apple trees. Deer love them just the same as apples.
If you search for Hallman Farms - they have incredible pears for good pricing. They come 5-6’ or taller. Haven’t put fruit on for me but they’ve done better than my apples. For apple varieties: initial (very early season) liberty (mid) enterprise (later) Goldrush (Nov or later) gives a good window with a few trees that all have good disease resistance. Mix in a couple Dolgo or Kerr crabs for pollination - as well as early, mid production of fruit - and you should be good. Definitely don’t use seedling trees or rootstock smaller than semi dwarf (prefer Bud118 for cold hardiness and are 80%+ size of standard but fruit years earlier than STD size rootstock). You can get lost with all the apple varieties out there (trust me, I wouldn’t want to add up all the hours I’ve put into just researching them). If you want fruit for yourself, you can look into the abyss but liberty, enterprise base is a great deer low-maintenance way to go.
Oh and cage your fruit trees. I’ve lost years to tubing them. They were deformed and got nipped at the opening so wasted 2 yrs, ended up cutting them to a main whip, fertilized and caged.
What would be your course of action if all the trees in your words are hard wood species that are not good for browse? ie sugar maple, black cherry etc
I’m really confused by your reference to Chestnut. American chestnut is gone due to chestnut blight. Do you mean horeschestnut (buckeye), walnut, butternut? Can you be more specific, please? You are very wrong about emerald ash borer. The beetle will not disappear. All the ash will die. Your correct that they will attack the older trees, but it’ll be a cycle. There will never be mature ash. So even with a hinge regeneration, they will die.
Lots of chestnut growing all over the lower to upper Midwest. Many forsters disagree with you...more if opinion since it hasn't happened yet 😉 was just at a chestnut farm in Ohio last week in the middle of 8 clients in 9 days. Doing great! He harvested 15 tons on his little farm just last year. Get back to me in 30 years about the emerald ash borer, when you actually know instead of just merely assume. Thanks!
Whitetail Habitat Solutions OK, I’ll admit you are right about chestnut still being around. I’m not from where they are native. My mistake. I did. It know they were still resprouting and providing some habitat value. So thank you for the correction. But I do know about EAB. I’m not assuming. The beetle will not just move on and disappear so the ash trees can come back. That is a fact. We can discuss this further if you wish, because it is my expertise.
Thanks Jeff, enjoy your education and experience. You may have spoke about this before but I can't remember, Red Osier dogwood. Good? Bad? What are your experiences with this plant? Thanks
I planted 50 red osier dogwoods two years ago on my place. They averaged about 3.5 feet in height. Deer ate every one of them to the ground. Next time, I'll have to cage them until they get large enough to handle the browse pressure. I'm in mid-Michigan.
@@rods-n-regscharters9099 I absolutely think they are a great browse if you can get then to live long enough. I'm trying to decide whether I should plant fewer and cage them, or plant 200 of them and hope some make it. I will plant more, either way though.
Jeff Pangborn I’ve thought about planting some of these in bedding areas. Any idea if they can be easily transplanted or just buy bare roots? Also, I hear they like water. Can these handle sand or better off on water edges? Thanks for anyone’s help.
Personally I hate Spruce woods. They just create biological desserts and offers little to the wildlife. Young Spruce can be great cover for wildlife, but as soon as they start to get tall and wide, they are worthless in my opinion. What you can do with young Spruce, is to cut them at the height you want them to be at. You can't do it to early and young and just top cut them, as they just grow a new top or 3 then. And you can't do it to late, leaving much air between the ground and the lowest branches. If you do it at the right time, the spruce will continue to live, not making new tops to grow tall and it will widen out to create fantastic cover to the wildlife without shading out lots of sunlight around it.
Well, here in the deep south, it's pine or nothing. Our forests have been raped by greedy northern States because we are stupid and let them. Let the comments fly.
There's no way you can plant an oak tree and expect it to help you in your lifetime. By the time you are old enough to buy land and then plant a tree, you'll be dead by the time it matures.
This is true, except don't disregard oak varieties such as Chinkapin or Sawtooth (depending on what zone you live in). They produce mast very young (5-10 yrs)
That's not accurate at all. I have hybrid oaks that produced nuts in first 10 years. Need to do your research, also Chinese chestnuts produce in 4-5 years, hazelnuts as well grown from seed.
