Great video! The only thing you said that worries me is setting that MAX ISO to 800...yipes. I know this is somewhat an opinion but I generally get great video with my MAX at 200.
Excellent explanation of the Avata 2 camera settings. Thank you. Using a similar setting with you @ 4K/60, UW, Rocksteady, 16:9 and D-LogM, it does not record at H.265, but only at H.264, which is a slower rendering. Do you know how to set it for H.265, I cannot find the setting??? I'm subbing. Greetings from Montreal, Canada.
Ideally you'd like a little less sharpening then default settings and very minimal noise reduction to reduce unwanted artifacts, however I'm leaving them default for time being.
@@KrisLuckPhoto Its the balance I have had 3 Avata 2's and goggles. If you look on the Da Vinci you can see the red bias on the colour spectrum scope. In comparison to my previous Air Units it's more obvious. If I fly the O3 or O2 back to back with the O4 Avata 2 you can see the sky looks more purple than deep blue and foliage looks less lush green. If you do minus 980 kelvin in Da Vinci it almost fixes it.
Couple of misconceptions that literally everyone is doing wrong. 4k/50 is the best no matter where you live, 100% of all devices will be able to play that. We're not in the 90s anymore :) Also, shutter speed should not be double for anything faster than 30p. 60p should be 1/60, simply because motion blur is controlled by shutter speed only, and it works on a frame by frame basis, which means that it doesn't matter if your framerate is 30 or 60 or 120, it should be as close to 1/50 (1/48) as possible, so for 60p just use 1/60. It's the same for 1/120, use 1/120, not 1/240 because you are just introducing much less motion blur which is the main point of doing this in the first place, and even at 1/120 it's already high.
You’re speaking about drone cameras frame rates only, yes? Your traditional SonyA7 film school setup is what he speaks of, is the misconception. Thanks!
