I quite often apply hairspray and it works also very well. The thing is don't spray it on the bed when its on the printer. That will easily mess up everything. Remove it, spray it on the balcony and done. Very nice video as always Chuck!
I use Elmers purple, but only because it's real easy to see if you've cleaned it off correctly. If you wipe the bed with a damp kitchen roll and you see purple, wipe some more! I apply the glue only to the area where the print is going to happen, not the whole bed, and usually use two layers at right angles to each other to ensure a good coverage. But I think one carefully applied layer would also work.
I use the purple gluestick too. I paint a zig-zag on the print bed with it then use a slightly wet 1-1/2" paint brush to swirl it around and coat the bed evenly. I make sure to preheat the bed before starting the print job to make sure it is dry. I've printed over 1000 hrs using this method with great results. I liked the hair spray idea, but it seemed to me that the spray would get sucked into the cooling fans and gum them up
Had a bed that had decent warp so I switched to glass. First print usually works well but additional prints would have issues sticking. Cleaned glass and issues persisted. Decided to use glue stick. Between the glass and the glue stick best decisions I could have made. Yeah with glass you do not have the convenience of a flexible removable bed but who cares if I can use a glue stick to get perfect first layers? Awesome stuff you have on your channel Chuck. You help make this easier for beginners like myself to get going.
I haven't used glue stick since I installed Energetic PEI magnetic springsteel on my bed months ago. I wash the springsteel with dawn dish soap every couple weeks, and no problems with prints adhering.
Love my Elmer's purple for prints with less base surface to help them stick to the bed. Great for use around the brims to help deter lifting. I use Windex Clear with Vinegar to clean any residue from the bed and have had great results so far.
Don't really like glue stick when I begin 3D Printer and all the time feel to much work. But once I use it I never stop using it. It's really make my life easier. Thank you for this video 🙂.
I have had the same experience with glue sticks I use the Elmer's Purple. Works Great for me. I have had Ender 3 V2 only since August 2, so I'm new to this. I've gained a lot from Chep's tips.
Thankyou so much for posting this. As a novice, its easy to get the impression that "real pros don't use glue sticks" . I tried everything on my ender 3. Bed leveling, frame checks, stepping, different nozzles, temperatures, beds, etc etc etc... The ONLY thing that has worked to get that perfect first layer not to peel was glue sticks. I'm sure there are great professional bed adhesion products out there, but for the noob like me, this advice was a Godsend.
I have used glue stick on the glass bed of my Cr-10 and is has worked flawlessly. I did have to wash the glass sheet with soapy water and found I always needed to relevel the bed afterwards. I have since swapped out to a wham bam PEX magnetic bed surface and love it. Yes I do need to rough the surface with steel wool every so often and wipe with ipa but it works great. I rarely need to level the bed anymore. Great video btw. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
After like 6-8 changes to my g-code to try and get this one thing to print, NONE of the options worked until I used the gluestick. I am now team gluestick
Hairspray works well if you just spray into a papertowel, then wipe the bed. Doesn't get everywhere. The trick is to just wipe it down to get a thin coat. That being said I stopped using it when I switched to the Wham Bam PEX surface.
Ya I have PEX on all my enders and no longer use hairspray except for PETG. It sticks too well and so now I add the hairspray to get that barrier so I don't tear the PEX.
I've been printing on a piece of hardware store glass 1\8" thick for a very long time. If everything is level and the bed is clean, I never have any problems. I'll keep this in mind if I start having any issues.
I use thin picture frame glass with Aquanet. So nice! I just pull the glass off, let it cool, and I can HEAR my print pop off the glass. Or I rub an ice cube on the bottom of the glass under the print, and speed up the release. I then put the ice cube back in the freezer, and REUSE my ice cube LOLOLOLOL!
It's incredible how well this actually works.. I had a few glue sticks that said conforms to "ASTM D 4236" that I got from a few filaments I ordered and decided to keep them, and I'm glad I did. I could never get prints that are 0.12mm thin to actually print, so I could never print in super good detail, because it would never stick, since it was such a thin initial layer. I always have done 0.2mm which is decent, but after around 50 prints on my glass bed; the initial layer was never sticking firmly anymore. I wanted to sway from using glue but I didn't realize you could just wipe it off with water after around 4-5 prints and recoat it. You def earned my like.
I have found watered-down PVA glue works well. It is water-soluble, so easy to clean off. This was required when printing things like the articulated lizard, which have tiny footprints for some segments. I had zero success rate before applying a layer of this (just dabbing a paper towel in it then wiping down the bed to leave a layer), and no adhesion problems thereafter.
I have used this method for years and it works great. In fact often times I only need to draw an X or O to catch the print. When that isn't enough I use a skirt to show where glue is needed, stop, glue, then restart.
Wow, it just works ! I've spent a whole day to level my bed, configure a temprerature, replace an filament, googling, a lot of GOOGLING. But now it works for me. My first layer sticks well to a bed. I don't know how to wash the glue from my table , but guess it is possible by isopropyl or ethanol
Hairspray works great for me and after a while I just run my bed under some hot water and all the old hairspray comes right off and my bed still looks new and yes you have to be strategic with it make sure it doesnt get on straps and fans but its works for me. I havent tried a glue stick yet because Hairspray worked so well for me. I will try it per your recommendation. Thank you.
Been using the Elmers purple sticks and had really good results on my Ender 3 V2. It's easy to see while applying and then clear during the print. I usually apply when the bed is heating up, it goes on easier.
Glue stick for the win! I had a BL touch that I could not get to work properly. After many hours of troubleshooting and frustration, I reverted back to manual mesh bed leveling and a bit of glue stick. I am getting better first layers than I ever got using the BL Touch. Much happier with manual bed leveling. Thanks for the tip Chep!
Works everytime . Once applied , after the first print , I just dampen a paper towel and gently go over the bed after the print . Good for 4 or 5 prints . Big help in releasing flexibles .
I am a rookie with a CR-10 Mini and the stock glass bed. And have used the Elmer's extra strength glue stick cleaning with Windex and Alcohol each time with a single light "swirly pass" where the model footprint touches with extra attention at the corners and it probably holds too good. And with such light coverage, each stick lasts forever. Will try some lighter sticks and see how they work. Great results for a very flat surface, thanks!
I am New to 3d printing and almost sent an Ender 3v2 back because all of the prints kept lifting. I found some elmers purple in a draw and now every print has worked perfectly with no lifting at all. I am keeping the Ender 3.
hey chuck have you ever tried glue stick, and wiping it across heated bed with a wet napkin? the glue stick can be very thin, in fact with wiping it of (when it is hot) the glue spreads thin and the water evaporates. always good videos. even for some of us that have been around since reprap darwin projects. the video's keep the skills fresh....
Okay okay, I never tried before after watching this last night, Decided why not. Wow I really should have tried it sooner. I used purple glue stick on a textured bed. Best print I've gotten out of that bed. Thank you Chuck!
I switched all of my machines to wham bam spring steel pei. Love it. No glue and no tools to scrap off prints. Sticks great and pops right off when it’s done. The bed isn’t really disturbed when removing the plate so I rarely need to level.
Same here I bought a cheap one form amazon and the creality one. The creality one is by far the best one. Never used glue on it after a year printing everyday its still going strong. The cheap amazon one not so great
@@phucky0o you can either get them from wham bam, they are in Florida or get creality version from amazon. If you ever need to change a pei sheet (I haven’t), you can get replacement sheets from wham bam.
Agreed. Glue stick does have it uses. I used them myself on a cutting board print surface, before I got my 1st comercial printer. Almost every type of glue stick worked, except the most exspensive brand glue stick, called Pritt. Perfect for paper, but not 3D printing. A touch of hairspray on my creality glass bed, and it sticks like crazy, except ABS.... My BIQU B1 with its SSS springsteel bed works like a charm, but it will wear out. We must all remember, the only part of your 3D printer that doesn't wear out over time is the extruded aluminum frame.... Great video. As always entertaining, educational to relevant.
I just had a couple attempts at printing go south on me. The first was a bed level problem, the second, I used glue stick but I used a foam brush wet with to much water and not enough glue. On my third attempt, I laid down some glue stick and used the foam brush again only dampened with water to smooth and even out the glue as the print I was printing pretty much encompassed my whole CR-10 bed. I just recently(about a week ago) put together my CR-10, so everything is new(it has been sitting in a box for over 6 months). I'm getting ready to put together my new CR-10 V2 I bought about two weeks ago.
Yup agreed my V2 bed had it 2 weeks and i must have used something bad on the Carborundum Glass bed but was just about to order another bed for $25 i also started adjusting my settings but i use 2 swipes of the glue stick and bang i haven't reapplied yet and I've done 4 prints i might just stick with the glue :) totally agree CHEP and the hairspray sucks as well.
Glue sticks and other adhesives works not only for sticking, but for proper "releasing". PETG can stick to clean (deoiled) glass so well, so you could get pieces of glass on your model. Those "glue sticks" that works - are all made on basis of PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) - the same for many "3D spray glues". Those sprays could be made of PVP, isopropanol and some distilled water - very cheap, and gives very nice first layer. Also, for some naughty filaments (like PA or ABS) you could use "polyvinyl butyral phenolic" glue, twice deluted with isopropanol - works like a charm, thin film works nice for several prints, and could be removed by placing glass bed under hot water for several minutes.
I always use something to aid adhesion, usually glue stick. I got tired of applying and cleaning my CR10 S5's large bed so I recently started using Layerneer Bed Weld and I have been really impressed.
My Ender 3 has always struggled with large, full bed prints because they edges will warp. Recently came across this video, and I needed a full bed print. Worked like a charm with Elmer's purple, but I'll try Avery when I run out.
Honestly, ever since I bought a heated bed, and placed glass from a $2-3 target frame on top, I've never had adhesion issues. Every print I give it a quick clean with alcohol. Then I updated to an official glass bed. With the heater cooling down, I could lift the entire printer up by the print, it's that strong
Blue glue stick for me on smooth glass for PetG only. PLA seems to stick great to clean glass with no adhesive. I use window cleaner to clean glue stick off glass when done. I noticed isopropyl just dilutes glue and spreads it around then it drys again before I can get it off the glass. Glass cleaner turns the glue blue again and wipes off right away with a paper towel. Thanks for the vids Chep!
I was stubborn at the start ... glue stick is not 'right'. I use it all the time. I sometimes put the glue on as the SKIRT is printing, using the skirt as a guide to show where the glue is needed. Thank's for another great video Chep.
You are a hero my Friend!!!!! I've only done a small amount of 3D printing over the last few years, I even stopped printing for like 2 years because Stuff stopped sticking... I got so mad I was about to buy a whole new printer. But I found your video and IT REALLY WORKS!!! THANK YOU!
Glue stick is great for prints that might run out of filament. Twice for me, having the print glued down saved it because I was able to adjust in Cura to print the remaining layers. Had the print broken loose, it would have been wasted since there's no way that I'd get the printed part perfectly aligned to it's original position again. Elmer's Purple for me. I like to thin it out on the bed with a little alcohol. It leaves just enough to hold the print well.
My jam is 3M blue painters tape. Works great, can get a fair number of uses before I have to strip it away and place new tape. I use 90% alcohol between prints and a lint free cloth to wipe the surface.
PETG was driving me crazy. The Overture build surfaces work perfect for PLA, but PETG was ripping it trying to get parts off, but I would still get warping on large prints Elmer's glue stick on smooth borosilicate glass works great, believe it or not.
As always, Great tips Chuck. I use glue sticks and layer of painters tape. I know its an overkill - but I don't have to worry about cleaning the bed. I just remove the tape after 2 or 3 prints and reapply a new layer of tape.
I got Ender 3v2 with the carborundum plate. No matter what I tried all the PLA filaments I had (HatchBox, Overture, and MatterHackers) would warp slightly in corners, even while the rest of the print had good adhesion. I even tried using a brim and while brim would hold great the corners of the actual models would still warp despite the brim. After almost 2 months of struggling, I decided to flip the bed to the smooth glass side and try glue. Problem solved, no brim needed, the prints stick great and no more warping. So yeah, glue stick is amazing.
Works great, the only issue I will add that wasn't mentioned. If you are printing on a glass bed and looking for that high gloss finish, the glue will imprint into the print. You still get a very smooth surface, but you can see the glue stick swipes in the reflection. For this particular print I was hoping for that glass finish and only see those concentric patterns on the bottom layer, but still turns out good.
I have the same ender 3 glass bed, I print about 60 to 80 parts a week on it all without glue or what not. 65 bed temp and a slow initial layer speed of about 10 and I have perfect surfaces every time. Of course I also have a bl touch and make sure the bed is level.
I'm still pretty new to 3DP and I was struggling a lot with the stock glass bed on my E3 Max, I really liked the results I got from using a glue stick but I really hated the extra prep and never really got a chance to see what other's work flow was with glue sticks to see what works for them. It would have been nice to see in this video how you apply your glue and where it fits into your prep workflow. Like do you apply when the bed is hot or cold? Before or after ABL? How often do you clean it or reapply? These are the sorts of questions I've never been able to find answers to. I ended up getting a PEI spring steel print surface with textured on one side and smooth on the other and at the moment I have absolutely no plans on going back to glass. The textured side is fantastic and I really like the bottom finish it gives.
My personal preference is a cheap pink *pump bottle* of suave hairspray. It's very easy to control the spray so you don't get over spray all over everything like chep said here. Everyone always refers to cans of "aquanet" type hairspray for some reason, it makes a huge cloud and is bad for the environment so I use pump bottles. If I have a difficult print that pops loose after a couple layers then I'll leave it on and run 3 or 4 single swipes of glue stick where the print will be. Keeps from having to fight it to get it off and 9 times out of 10 it gets the job done.
Well, I'm a rookie (first week of printing) and I know I have a lot to learn, but I came up with a variation of the glue stick option. It involves the same purple glue, but in a liquid form. I dilute it (about 60% liquid glue-40%water mixed well) with water and then spread it out on the bed. Much more level coating on the bed, it's thinner, and it has only slightly less adhesion. The prints stick, and they are just a little easier to remove. I only use one or two DROPS, so a small bottle of the brew will last for months. It also doesn't make that mound of glue in the middle of the bed that can happen with the glue stick. Before anyone asks, yes, the water evaporates when you heat the bed (50c is what I use for PLA). Leaving only a thin layer of the glue. It's also a lot easier to rinse off with warm water.
My go-to is TH3D Ezflex PEI. Holds on to PLA & PETG w/o glue. Yes, it worked w/o scuffing for several prints then I had to gently buff it w/ steel wool. Haven't done anything since but clear off fingerprints w/ IPA. YMMV.
I use Pritt Stick after leveling the bed on my Ender 3 v2. I had the same coating for a little over 2 weeks now. In case you're curious, once applied it goes hard and dry, but that doesn't mean it isn't going to stick, it will stick surprisingly well. I have found I don't need to clean and reapply a coating of Pritt Stick. But if I do need to, it only takes warm soapy water. However, I also use Brim. I've had no luck with skirt or no adhesion. Brim for large prints, raft for small. If you do use Pritt Stick, wait till the bed cools before you try to pry off your print, otherwise it is back to re-leveling that bed. For cleaning, I would lightly sprinkle warm soapy water onto the bed, careful not to let any run off, then, with a sponge, scrub in small circles around the bed. And then take a fibre cloth and rub from rear to front, if it needs repeating, do so, once done, it looks brand new. This method allows me to avoid leveling the bed again. :D
Glue stick definitely does work! Was printing with overture pla and it just would not adhere to the bed even after raising pla temp and lowering bed temp and troubleshooting. Used a glue stick and it stuck.
I confirm here, same trouble with Ender 3 and Overture filament, it's a good filament but the mix of the glass bed and this filament are tricky to use.
Elmers is good for sticking prints to the glass bed, my personal favourite is a quick spray of cheap off the shelf hairspray, the prints stick great and it’s easy to clean with a little warm water.
hello .... my glasbed worked fine for the first 30 prints ..... i like my glasbed because its perfectly even and bed leveling no problem ...... no the stickiness is gone . now i use the sticks and it works fine . once a week i put the glasbed in the dishwasher and thats it..... works fine
Elmer's purple glue stick over here as well, even on my PEI coated spring beds (rather than trying to rough them up with steel wool). Works great, haven't had any problems with prints lifting up or sticking too well, and haven't had a PEI coating rip or tear since I started using it. Every month or so I'll clean the beds with soapy water, wipe with IPA, and put down a single layer of glue stick. Saves so much time, effort, and frustration!
I use Aqua net hairspray but I have a removable glass bed so I don’t have to spray it near the machine. Works great 👍🏻 I tried the purple glue stick but had a hard time getting an even layer.
I agree with you completely. I’ve tried many different ways to get things to stick, but using a glue stick has given me far and away the most consistent results. I bought a box of Amazon Basics glue sticks for $5 and they’ve served me well, especially on the first generation Sidewinder that has a smooth glass bed.
Nice video CHEP, I used glue stick for a while, in fact I still keep one close by, but I found it hard to refresh it, I tried brushing it with water, alcohol, but I always had to keep adding more glue, which in turn meant that I had to remove the bed to wash it from time to time. Now I use sugar in 70% alcohol, I only need 2 light brush strokes to refresh it. My bed is a hardware store 3mm glass cut to size and I print ABS at 100c bed temp.
I have been using the elmer purple glue stick since I got my ender 3 v2 about a month ago and it has pretty much completely changed the game. I have had a total of 0 issues relating to bed adhesion, except if it sticks too well then you can just knock it with a blunt object (such as a screwdriver handle) and it comes right off.
@@mushroom-madness1 Thanks.. We are new to this. We are using the Overture filament at it says to use 230 - 250 for the nozzle and 80-90 for the bed. Tried everything within that range and does not stick! Cleaned it and last thing I am going to try is the glue. But I am giving it temp and nothing.
Great video. I have tried almost everything and now use the Creality glass bed, but the smooth side, with glue stick or Magicgoo. I have tried hairspray and agree it does leave a film from overspray. The biggest problem I have is with NingaTek, it sticks too well for that I use blue 3m painters tape, so it doesn't destroy the bed.
I have a wham bam textured metal sheet and I have been printing on it for about 4 months and have had very little issues with it. I clean it with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol. If my parts start to pop off I simply level my bed and I’m back to printing. I print a minimum for 2 or thee parts a week. I think it’s something people should look into but that’s just my opinion.
I have been using painters tape. It seems a lot less popular but it has been working perfectly for me and seems a lot easier than gluestick. And no issues reusing it for many many prints.
Using your bed level Gcode, I found that the corners were fine, but the center was low. I put two layers of painter tape on the bottom of the glass bed, and re-leveled the bed, and got a really good level. Prints since have been really good, and the clue was using gcode which also touches the center of the bed, so thanks very much!
Right now printing a 30+ hour print. I tried to print this thing (a big skull, takes the whole ender 3 V2 bed) multiple times before, but always had the problem that the first layer just did not want to stick well. No problems with small prints, bed is level, clean surface. I experimented with a lot of settings to get the first layer perfect but nothing seemed to work. Took me month or so to finally try glue stick and voilà! The first layer was instant success and I was able to finally get this thing printing! I would definitely recommend the glue stick when having these sort of issues. Mine is really cheap stuff but it just works. Had I come across this video a month ago (not possible since time is linear and what not), I would probably have saved a lot of headache! PS its still going at 21 hours right not, fingers crossed it comes out successfully, since I don't have enough filament to try again if it does not ;)
Yup. CHEP is right. Glue Stick WORKS every time. No questions. I have tried many way until one said that the Glue Stick works the best. For better products: Elmer's Glue Stick. I have been doing it since I first applied the stick and didn't had any problems since.
Been using Elmers Purple almost since my start. Even after mastering my bed leveling, I would get the occasional pop off; but not since I started the glue stick. I also use Windex with Vinegar glass cleaner to clean off the residue after/before each print. Works great. So far so good.
I get the use of glue stick totally and completely. I've stuck with a thekkiinngg textured pei sheet for the last few years and it works great still. I print mostly pla so either I wait for prints to self release or I get impatient and flex them off. I use glue stick for pc and hair spray for nylon then wash it off and print abs, pla and petg no problem.
I agree on the hairspray on a bare glass bed and use White Rain. I do remove the bed and spray from 3 angles and let it dry. Keeps from having overspray on the printer. To each their own, if it works, it works.
Aqua Net is my favorite brand when I was printing on $3 cut to size ( ender 3 printers). I cut my own so I have several I cam swap and hairspray on outside and not on the printer! However, going to a pei flex surface over a year ago eliminated any coatings for pla and a quick scuffing of 000 steel wool before any critical print project as insurance. Otherwise when ever I see any sticking issues. I also move small prints around in my slicer to avoid using the exact same location for every Print. Cuts down on surface prep requirement. I so a quick ipa wipe before every prints from a pump action reservoir top makeup bottle from $ tree. Two pumps abs my paper towel has enough 91% ipa in it fir a wipe. I do use Magigoo for Petg and have a dedicated pei surface I damaged/ scored early on due to a z offset mistake just for Petg now. I did use $3 glass but it cracks over time due to the high bed heat. Why I’m interested to try glue stick again is my Magigoo will runout and if glue stick is successful, it would be a a better $ choice. I use a BL touch, now a CR Touch, to deal with pei assuming any bed warping highs and lows and removing and replacing it to remove prints that may change the z offset or the bed springs.
In South Africa we use FIESTA hairspray. a small spray is all you need. Ah yes, overspray.... I move my bed all the way out and put a papersheet as a shield between the platform and the rest of my printer. No overspray...yet
I tried a few things when starting out . Ender 3 . Found that non textured glass and a swipe of fresh glue stick every print has worked for me . Yes it take bit extra time to clean bed and re apply everytime but I don't think I've had a bed failure for over a year. Oh and a tip when I print abs first layer is 50deg bed then 2nd layer set to 90deg . Cause I found the glue stick fries when bed starts at 90deg.
Great advice. Worked on my new printer. The first 4 small print jobs worked perfect. Now nothing sticks, tried cleaning to no avail. glue stick just worked!!
Started using Elmers Purple after an awful experience trying to use Solutech PETG. In my case it was because I needed a sacrificial layer rather than weld the PETG to the bed of my ender 3... I've had good luck with glue-stick ever since and aside from occasionally 'refreshing' the surface, it's been a boon.
This works wonders. I have a slightly uneven bed and was getting adhesion issues despite how many attempts to level the bed, adjust bed temp, or slow down the initial layer. Some of the purple Elmer's glue stick lightly applied over the entire print area and I have an absolutely pristine first layer.
I have the Ender 3 Pro and using your bed leveling code, never had a sticking problem on the magnetic bed .. never used the Glass Bed .. Did burn a hole at the Home Spot .. Didn't RTFM .. lol BEERS!!!
Thank you for video, I got one good print out of 3 attempts , since than they won't stick or the moving head would catch the filament on bed and rip it off . I have also leveled the bed quite nice
I've been using hairspray on a glass bed with great success with PLA so I probably won't change but when printing ABS the cheap hair spray was unreliable; my wife had some hairspray that she didn't like and WOW does it work. To remove my prints I almost always have to put the glass plate in the freezer for 20 minutes, after it has cooled down of course, but then the prints practically fall off. The hairspray is Herbal Essences Body envy Volumizing Hairspray with Citrus Essences, there are numbers 1 through 4 on the can with 4 being highlighted. I do my ABS prints on a Monoprice Select Mini (V1) with the bed temperature at 75°C.
Thanks. For the tip. I was having a big issue with the prints coming off in the beginning of the print and then right before it finished. I use an ender 3 pro with the platter, ender pad and a glass. Swiped on glue and let sit and started to print. It appears to be working so far on a sample print. My platter is level also.
I had a hell of a time with glass. Switched to metal sheet with PEI. Never roughed it up and it has worked great for a year and change now. Nothing wrong with the glue stick. If it works for you, that’s all that matters.
Hi, I exactly have the described problem… my print do not stick to my bed on my Ender 3V2. I already tried cleaning the bed, leveling the bed, changing the springs, even changed the complete hotend, because I thought it could be the temperature sensor. I also played around with different temperature settings for hotend and bed. What I missed in this video was the „practical“ part, to show what exactly is a „swipe“ and how to apply. Do you swipe one line on the bed and distribute it with the fingers over the bed or do you swipe with the stick all across the bed? - Do you use light, medium oder high pressure when swiping over the bed? But anyway, thanks for the hint, what I can try to get my printer back to work….
I've had a stock Ender 3 with a borosilicate glass bed for over two years. I use a glue stick and have never had a single print lift. For every print I (1) Preheat bed and nozzle for PLA, (2) level the bed with CHEPP's file, (3) swipe with a glue stick up and down, side to side and diagonally both ways, and print. Clean the glass bed with water and dish soap after each print. Always works.
I tried glue when my prints stuck too well. This worked, however I took the plunge and bought the WhamBam flex plate with PEX. The best decision I ever made. Everything sticks without glue and the parts pop off when cold. If you don't want to wait, flex the bed. I haven't had the need to use steel wool that often so it's not an issue. I admit, glue stick might be useful for two coloured prints. I haven't tried that yet.
I will be trying the glue stick but I don’t get why rafts stick but printing with out them doesn’t. Hopefully this helps or still have to find my first layer/adhesion problem. Thanks for the info.
Literally "swipe" it the same way you'd put it on paper lol.. just make sure not to leave a glob of it. basically using the weight of the gluestick itself, don't push it down or anything. I've printed 5 trees at once and had to cover my entire plate with glue, was a successful 20 hour print.
Ok simple swipe got it. But… showing it being swiped and a print results while explaining it would be the final touch. I’ve tried glue stick with poor results. I went over to Magigoo for its ease of applying. I also went to a pei surface. The recommendation of “ just use glue stick” is never well presented as to one swipe or many. Also on a hot or cold bed. Chuck has gives his recommendation on what glue stick to try abs that’s a good start for me when my Magigoo is gone! I’d liked to have seen his favorite glue stick applied and a finished print removal and surface outcome. Fortunately that’s a quick easy update he could add to his next video for all of us that haven’t used glue stick or weren’t impressed the way we were using it. Any experts can fast forward thru that. Problem solved.
