Wow thank you for this video. My lever was loos on my 2011 Electraglide, I was able to tighten it but was not happy with having to remove the primary if worst case . Your video just gave me comfort knowing I can get the lever out without a major job in the future. Thank you again for passing this on .
So I was afraid of breaking the bolt since it felt tight. Fears of having to remove the primary case. Seeing there a way to remove the arm without removing the primary, I dove in and tightened it without incident. About a 1/4 turn did it. Now it's tightened and good to go.
Hey bud not that I don't believe you, but it's so groundbreaking I have some questions. I get the idea of taking it off but how are you able to get the new one to fit correctly is there enough clearance from the back of the primary, additionally are you able to loosen the Allen bolt?
Useful video, thanks for sharing. I just came across your channel in my feed actually. I'm happy to support your efforts and those of other fellow moto content creators. I look forward to seeing and hearing more from you in the future ; keep up the great work and ride safe out there.
Another way if the thread is not stripped is to use a cap screw on the threaded side of the lever and slip in a coin or piece of metal the same thickness as the clamping slot, then crank away, this will force the the spline bore more open than a screwdriver.
Man if only I would have watched this video. Before I tore my primary's off oh well lol thanks again Steve one more question the spline drive on my 95 ultra classic is really worn out but still salvagable can you help me with that same bike 95
If your splines are not too bad but the lever is loose. If you can get the lever off as shown in the film. Use a 1mm cutting disc and cut about 1mm off the pinch face then it will tighten up and stay tight. Wish I’d seen this before I took the primary off to trim mine
Mine just came loose on me during bike. Tober Fest got it back to the house but now the fun part of fixing it mine is so loose even with the bolt still in it tight
yes , same here with a 2005 fatboy. Im lucky i could even get an allen in there to tighten the damn thing, hard as piss to see with a light, anyways. F it....just tighten the piss outta of it...works for me.
I thought the issue was that the 5 speed bikes aren't supposed to have the room to remove the oem lever, the 6 speed bikes have enough room to remove the oem lever?
I have exactly that problem on 98 fxdl how did u get tool in slot of shaft fro m top side or bottom would be def way better than cutting in a very small space
I think anything earlier than 2006, you must take the outer/inner primary cases off. (with the clutch & compensator parts!) To tell you the truth, I don't think the inner rear shift lever, can be pryed open with the little tool that he showed he did it with! I tried doing that, with a hammer & chisel and it wouldn't budge, to open. I thought about it, (after ordering and receiving a new upgraded inner shifter lever from; "BAKER TRANSMISSION") that I'm going to try to skip the removal of all the parts of the primary, and do this; (This worked for me!) remove the bolt from the front part of the shifter "ROD" with a 1/2" deep socket, (leave the rear one connected if you want! Then tilt the rod (with rear part still attached, if you did that) up and towards the back, out of the way. (Just watch your fuel tank, you don't want to scratch it!) Remove the inner rear shifter (transmission/primary) lever bolt. Then go to the hardware store, and buy a grade 8, 1/4"×20×1-1/2" bolt, with a grade 8, 1/4"×20 nut with the nylon locking made in it, and (get your new grade 8 bolt) put the new bolt and flat washer into the rear inner shifter lever bolt hole, and hold it with a socket, a short extension & a rachet. Tape the "nut" onto a deep socket (with masking tape, cut an X on the masking tape, where the hole is on the nut) a long extension with rachet & (put a flat washer, taped nut with the hole exposed on the m-tape) onto the bolt, from under the bike, tighten (the heck out of it) until the inner rear shift lever feels tight again! I just kept tightening, knowing it's a grade 8 nut & bolt. I'll save that new "BAKER" lever for; "if I ever do have-to remove the inner & outer primary cases of my 95' Road King Custom!" But not today! (Unless of course, the lever gets stripped worse and loosens again! Then, at least I tried doing it the easy way, that I thought of!
yes...I have 05 fatboy, ours is tighter, a different primary cover was used in 07' up....look down there with a light, mo....you got like 1/8" or 1/4" if that!! i just hammered mine down till it didnt move a cunt hair!
on my 2013 switchback it was the same. i did not even have to open it. and the new one (original hd) easily slipped on. (~30€) only problem i have already bought the other parts for removeing the primary (~200€) because my dealer said its neccesarry to remove it and i dindn´t try before ordering
How hard was it to put the new level on? My old one came off easy but putting on the new one not so much. Having issues getting it to slide onto the shaft.
The shifter mechanism is such a weak link. Anyone needing part numbers and the specialty tools for the entire shifter mechanism it’s on my channel. They didn’t change it for 34 years 1982-2022 FL touring
Why isn't their any videos on the shaft return spring that seems to brake alot. Or is my mechanic giving me a bullshit story saying it's gonna run 2200 - 2400 $ to fix a shifter shaft return spring which runs around 56$ is it all labor charges. Should I get rid of my 6 speed Ultima and go with a 6 speed Revtec which has a killer warranty
Ebay look up shift pawl shafts . Baker sells them 35 bucks with a new spring , it is a pain to fix the trans has to be took apart piece by piece , Trap door bearings main shaft , shifting forks bushing for the main shaft rides on the inner primary . That has to have a puller or be cut off with die grinder. before you can pull the drive gear and main shaft. That is why they get 2400 to do the job.
That price is high. Removing and replacing HD big twin gear boxes is easy work (and a nice time to do or upgrade swingarm pivot hardware). The best sources of detailed info are forums not RU-vid but videos help with showing the how NOT the reasons WHY why text and forum threads do far better. If a bought a new box it would be another Baker. You can study and buy very nice tools then do it yourself. I've done several as a multibrand mechanic and it's merely tedious not hard.
It has to be a hair thinner, i have a 05 fatboy, and i got like a 1/4 of inch down there with a light and bad eye sight!!! ant no way..im trying that,,,,i just tighten the balls off of it today. i cant find nuetral at all, brand new clutch assembly, but. thats what got me screwing with it, looking at this video, and comments!! I did clutch adjustment 2x;s, changed primary fluid to Formula + 26 oz exactly!...it will eventually go in when im coming home from a ride, like 2 hrs hot, then it will work its way in, but cold, no way. If bike is off, GOES RIGHT IN!!
There's no reason for this shaft to be splined, they absolutely suck. Just get it welded and dont waste your time or money on anything else. An elephant can shift my bike and it won't break. For what its worth panheads and other prior HD's had a squared shift shaft. I get mine welded on every single one of my bikes.
@@garyrosenquist4071 JB weld is feeble under load and more of a patch. If you have an older HD with the sad alloy shifter arm you can run a steel later arm as a replacement. It's a common mod. I have them on both my FXRs.
just did this on my 2015 ultra limited and only had to spread the d lever and it wiggled right off and the new one took a small chisel and spread it open,took a few times but it eventually spread enough to slip it on.thanks for this tip,saved me much work and time !
If his 08 is actually late 08 then it’s possible It could have the 09 and later style inner. If so, then yea, it will come off. Otherwise the easiest way is just pull the inner. Baker makes a nice heavy duty lever for around 90$. They go on every bike I pull the inner off of. Along with new seals while I’m in there. The “ better lever” does work, but for all the dicking around to cut the old one off on the early bikes, it’s easier to pull the inner and put on the Baker and be done. Plus it’s over 100$ less money.
