Three (3) years later and there are other videos on here with even worse sludge than this SUV and this BG cleans them, awesome stuff and awesome video !
That's one thing that was obvious.lol With that said, even if one does regular oil changes, it wouldn't be a bad idea to clean your engine at some point. It could very well make it last longer. IMO
I have a sludged engine that needs something like this but it makes me nervous to dump all the oil and only run the engine with cleaner in it. What is lubricating everything?? The cleaner it self?
Why does this stuff work so good and it seems like nobody else makes a product that can do this. I ran straight chem dip in my car and let it sit for a week before I drained it out and it did an amazing job but still not this good. I'm really tempted to buy this stuff and I have 2 cars that need it. No I'm not the reason they are in such bad condition. I take good car of my cars. But I bought a high mileage 200k Toyota pPrius and my mom has a Chevy Astro van that has not had any oil changes or maintenance in the past 5 or 10yrs or so and its full of sludge but still runs perfectly so I want to try and save it.
It sounds like the product has strong chemicals because I've heard it has a strong smell, both the rinse oil and cleaner. The true magic occurs running it for 40 mins at 3k rpm. Easy way to clean your engine is to buy a high quality synthetic and run it hard on a 1+hour road trip. That will clean it out pretty well
Got a 2016 f 150 5.0 , has a stalling issue I think it’s due to the oil pressure running the timing , vcts ect , I’m hoping this works for me instead of spending thousands on all the timing parts and labor , truck has only 125 k on it so I don’t think parts need to be replaced yet , I hope ?
@@keepitsolidkeepitreal2877 figure I might as well do the 45 min one , I figure if I do still have to replace everything at least there won’t be any crud in there to screw up the new parts
@@Lostsouls5557 I did , my truck wasn’t too bad sludge wise but once my guy get his scanner updated we will figure it out hopefully , but it definitely cleans the shit out of the engine , we had a camera we looked in the valve cover and by the timing chains , it was definitely a lot cleaner than before the flush , and I figure if I do the timing stuff it’s good to have all the junk out of it before I put all new in there
@@typedrew lol right! Ill rather replace seals at some point down the line years later than replacing the whole motor tomorrow. I wouldnt worry. Plus they mentioned that it shouldn't affect anything and if it does, they will help cover the cost.
What people don't understand is that removing the oil pan and checking for and removing debri as well as replacing the pick up screen or removing and cleaning it is a MUST .. you do not do this service and not drop the pan .. in fact if you have a motor that needs this service drop the friggin pan before you start why ? because you are looking for shit clogging the screen but most importantly you are looking for blue / black connecting rod ends or main caps telling of overheating and bearing failure because if you have this damage doing the flush is pointless as moter needs over hauled and it will get cleaned during that procedure .. also if doing this it is either your car or someone else's and they will hold you accountable if motor scatters during the procedure as the cleaner is much thinner then oil and does not protect the engine. one last thing almost all of the bg products are overpriced and not needed for this the total cost of materials when I do this for cleaner etc is less then $15 the bg stuff gives you detailed instructions and products to use in order to let stupid people do a simple procedure and pay 10 times more then it really costs to do ..
I don't agree with everything you stated here. Dropping the oil pan on most motors wouldn't be worth the while. You wouldn't be doing this cleaning without the owners permission so if they decided to have it done it would be on them. I've used BG for over 40 yrs and even 40 yrs ago it was a good product. Better than any others I've tried. Is over priced? In many cases it is but with this motor it might be worth the cost. I would be doing it myself to avoid a bigger cost. If the motor is bad enough to have to inspect rod bearings, etc., it wouldn't be worth messing with in the first place. Not sure what cleaner you use for $15 but if it works thats fantastic! Keep doing it!
@@alexandervasilenko434 It's a slower process but when you are not a professional mechanic with a fully equipped shop some times slower is better when it comes to cleaning a sludged engine. For "do it yoursel" a very safe bet is Marvel Mystery Oil. It won't work anywhere as fast as the complete BG system but it's very easy to use, just add to your crankcase about 300 miles before an oil change and then drive as normal for the next 300 or so miles and then get the oil changed. *Note: if you have reason to believe that your engine is heavily sludged then instead of adding the Marvel Mystery Oil 300 miles before an oil change add it about 20 miles before an oil change (the first time) then get your oil changed. Then repeat that process over the next few oil changes but gradually increase the amount of miles before each oil change, so the next one add it about 100 miles before the oil change and the 3rd time add it 300 miles before the oil change. That's only if you have reason to believe there's heavy sludging, otherwise you can just stick to the 300 mile recommendation. But still follow up several more times over the next few oil changes to insure it has been thoroughly cleaned. Marvel Mystery Oil will cost you about $8 bucks per treatment, best price is at Walmart.
I really hate the word umm, omg it was so hard to watch this video with him taking. Every few words were umm. Only continued watching to see the process, and if it worked .
Give them some slack ..If you are not used to being in front of a camera and not scripted ; you will do that.. At least thank them so making an effort to make the video/ infomercial
This may be a fully legitimate and effective product. BUT...I would like results from an independent lab as to A) a full physical examination of the engine internals prior to the cleaning.. and this especially includes the bearing surfaces.. B) you want a chemical analysis of the content of the cleaning agent(s) and you want an analysis of both the typical contaminants jn the flush oil after its use and the levels of chemistry in the normal oil which follows the flush oil after the normal oil's duty cycle. Then, you need some independent parties to do an good eyes on examination of the actuial engine parts especially if there is damage or any negative effects especially to bearing surfaces You just need a far deeper/better testing to really determine what in truth happened in the test engine using this product. And you can't get that from fans of any product. You need FULLY independent investigation before you consid r r and substance or product safe and effective
Thanks Cindy, my thoughts exactly, its called the scientific method. One must use extremely strong solvents to remove that level of varnish, gum, and sludge. Machine shops can but they use caustic chemicals that can damage aluminum, seals and bearing material. Without analysI is of the original cleaner, and resulting wear analysis and particle count, I am willing to bet there was harm to the engine. I have been telling people for years, just perform a Full Volume oil change or double oil change and get 99% of the old oil out, and let the fully forumuated oil with full compliment of additives do its job. I have seen modern engines retain 10-20% residual oil. Just last week I had my engine register 188 ppm of iron after 2500 miles, I drained, refilled and new oil. I sampled the oil after thuroughly circulating the oil and it showed it retained 22 ppm of iron and abnormal amounts of silicon and sodium. New oil would have been condemned if that amount was found in it. People have been duped for years to believe that an oil change drains 99% of the old oil. They need to bring back the oil flush machines, especially for GDI engines.
To do that amount of testing and then an engine tear down and all that you recommended would exceed the value of the vehicle and I am sure these guys have seen enough of this stuff to be able to make a very reasonable decision on the effectiveness of this treatment. It’s not perfect but for it’s minimal cost when compared to another engine it’s is cheap and way more efficient than just an oil change. And all of the products are petroleum distillates so should be recycled as usual . It clearly did something to the engine , most likely for the better.
Ok..This is not a miracle cure..Poor Oil maintenance first cause..CEL..VVT solenoid or Oil pressure switch..We still use diesel fuel(1 quart-run at idle to 2500rpm/ No driving only stationary) Drain and Fresh oil and filter change..Never try getting all the carbon out the first try..The carbon build up could be holding the seals together..Are you ready for full rebuild after this...? All your trying to do is stabilize the mess.....
Just use trans 1 quart for 200 miles 5 times change oil every 1000 for next 4 months save money and learn to to change your own oil every time you want to 😮
Two reasons this alone may not work. One they said they were getting codes for the cam phasers. The lack of oil to them due to the sludge could have permanently damaged them. If not permanently damage they said they did pull the valve covers. Most cam phasers have screens in them the oil flows through to keep the debris out of the phaser. If they didn't clean the phaser screens then this wouldn't solve the issue. This service is $250 - $350 to perform as the fluids are crazy priced.
all check engine lights in all vehicles come on when oil is at very very very fucking low critical oil PSI as in they are not warning lights to warn you of impending doom they are notification lights to inform you to pull over and call a tow truck as you will need a new engine NOW. if you see the low oil warning light its already to late .. manufacturers do not want to sell you 3 qts of oil they want to sell you a replacement engine and the labor to install and regardless of how old the car is or mileage it will not be under warranty as it is owners responsibility to change and check oil levels .. if a main seal fails and you lose 6 qtrs in a matter of minutes and you hire an ATTORNEY you might get it covered by warranty as a factory defect. but 99% of the time nope its not covered .. trust me I was the technician in the shops that I worked in that advised whether or not it was neglect or failure and if car isnt maintained a tech can tell. that and oil sample is always taken and sent to the lab. if it was in there longer then the service interval you bought an engine
