Placing the master link at the top and then pressing your foot on the pedal gives you greater force to snap the master link in place. Afterwards, check that the pins are properly engaged on both sides. Regards and safe cycling, Tony
MANY thanks Tony. Every second of it interesting and informative. Even just having a short piece of wire to hold my chain together (while I worked on it) saved me an hour of frustration. Thank you !
Thanks for the video. I haven’t had to use a power lock in a while and was trying hard to squeeze the link and slide them together (for a 11 speed). It’s a simple procedure but it would not slide together. Your instructions regarding using the brakes and pressing on the pedal solved the mystery. Now locked in.
Simple trick. You do need to check both sides of the master link (power lock) after installation to make sure the both pins are securely in place! Other wise you'll need to remove the master link and try again (you'll probably need a tool to remove the link). Regards, Tony
Great tip for locking the new master link! I was pulling and pulling and pulling on the master link tool to no avail. One firm press on the pedal with the brake engaged and "click!"
Thank you! Just the detail I needed to see regarding the master link, which most all of the other videos I reviewed glossed over. Very helpful for a first timer!
Thanks Tony. I ordered quick links and did not managed, to get it fixed on the chain. After i did see the example ( oil on quick links plus the push down on the pedal, it did work. Thanks a lot Tony. It saved me money but also feels great i fixed the chain on the bike. As you advised: i checked how the quick link fits correctly. Greetings from Holland
I know its a few years late to comment. however something people don't know is that if you push the sides of the link to each other it makes it very easy to install and remove. I never have to use a tool since I learned this
That is certainly true for 9 speed master links, some 10 speed and Connex links. However, becomes much more difficult with 11 and 12 speed master links. One can use ones foot to engage most master links as shown in the video below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--v4u9pkpIns.html Just be careful to check both sides of the chain link to make sure the pins are fully engaged. Removal by hand of the 11 and 12 speed can be difficult but can be done on some KMC links as you describe by pushing the sides of the master link together. Thanks for sharing, Tony
Thanks. One can do a lot with an old coat hanger.. See our videos on bicycle tips and hacks: ru-vid.com/group/PLYbCdE49qIMeXKHeb1FfxI3I7-Vvwb6FP Regards and safe cycling, Tony
Thank you, Tony, for your video! My KMC X10 chain recently got damage: small dent just in between outer plate and roller. So one link became hardly movable. Chain is workable, but I afraid that such immovable link may damage the cassette or rear derailleur, so decided to change the chain. Want to try Shimano CN-HG95-10 (is manufacturer recommended chain for my HG62 cassete). I am used to break the chain for cleaning. I was surprised that Shimano doesn't offer any "quick link" or "master link" for 10-speed chains. But even their 7/8/9 and 11, 12 quick links are not reusable, according to their manuals. So want to try KMC CL559R "missing link". A bit daunted by the fact that Shimano chain is asymmetrical (outer plates are narrower than inner plates), while KMC chains (and suppose links as well) - symmetrical. Hope this combination will work.
Although Shimano still offers a 10-speed chain, they never developed a 10-speed master link probably because they saw the writing on the wall that indicated that 11 speed would be taking over. The 10 speed KMC master link should work well with the asymmetrical Shimano chain, at least I don't think you'll notice any problems. My viewers and I would love some feedback after you've had a chance to test the combination out. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed , thank you for your comment! Just 10 min ago I've finished operations with chain: shortened Shimano chain, degreased from factory lube in non polar petrol solvent, dried, installed on my bike and connected ends with KMC missing link CL559R. Lubed with smoove. Didn't had chance to ride yet. But as far as I could notice on bike stand - chain works like a charm. Probably it's my illusion, but looks like it moves more smooth and with less noise than stock KMC X10. A few rides will show if it really does. Will leave my comment here again after have some experience with it.
I rode like crazy as a tenager (35 years ago) and now got back into road cycling and things have definitely changed. I was 25 miles from home yesterday and the master pin was disengaging itself (3k miles on the chain). I'm the mechanic, technically my fault since I've taken the chain off more than once to clean it and the rear cogs/casette. Man chains are much lighter and more high performance, and consequently fickle and with shorter life spans. Thankfully on my ride (which was about to completely fail) a nice woman in car with a bike rack gave me a lift 7 miles to the nearest shop (that installed a new chain, backwards). I think I'm done with "master pins" if I can help it.
9 and 10 speed chains will last upward of 3000 miles, but 11 and 12 speed chains (because they're thinner) will last only 1500 or so miles and need to be checked often with a chain wear checker. It's also possible that the master link was not fully engaged on both sides. You need to check both sides after installation. Don't reuse the master link unless it specifically says "reusable." Once you learn how to install the link, they rarely fail.
Nice tip. Wish I had thought of it. I've been doing it with circlip pliers that push apart when you squeeze the grips. I've been wondering how I would do this in the field!
In the field, you'll need a chain tool to remove any broken link unless you have a Wippeman Connex master link (that matches the speed of your chain, i.e., 9, 10, 11 or 12 speed chain). The Connex master link is easy to remove and replace by hand. If you're using a chain tool to remove a broken link, you can install a new master link (I carry an extra master link specific for my chain in my saddle bag) as shown in the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--v4u9pkpIns.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
I have a few 7/8 sp kmc master links that require no force to install and remove. I examined them carefully because I thought maybe they just required more force to set, but no they were fully set. I decided not to use them because it almost seemed like back pedalling could undo them.
If you're running a 6, 7 or 8 speed chain, the KMC 6/7/8 link can be installed (and removed) without a tool. They will not come off when pedaling forward or backward. The same for 9 speed. However, bicycles are not really made for back pedaling. Certain specific bikes can present problems including dropping the chain or the chain jamming. It's not a habit I would recommend. But this latter point is just a personal observation. Regards, Tony
Thank you for all the wonderful videos. They are short and technically to the point. I really benefited and now I'm able to do most of my bike repairs myself. My question: i just installed a new Shimano 11 speed cassette (14-28T) and new Shimano (CN-HG701) chain, with Shimano quick-link, and all is working out perfect. I also have some spare SRAM 11 speed power-lock quick links, and wanted to know if it is compatible with my Shimano (CN-HG701) chain, or do i have to buy another spare Shimano quick-link? also, when for fun I installed the SRAM quick-link on the Shimano left over chain, i found it very tight, wondering if that is normal and will loosen up with use? Thanks Tony.
10 speed - no problem. But Shimano 11 speed are not compatible with 11 SRAM. See: www.biketiresdirect.com/chain-compatibility-article So if you're using an 11 speed Shimano, you need an 11 speed Shimano master link (and vise versa). You can also purchase a reusable KMC master link for the specific speed and chain manufacturer. Regards, Tony
Due to an emergency, I recently used a new Sram 10 speed master link with a new KMC 11 speed chain. Surprisingly, I am at nearly 200 miles and still going strong. My new KMC 11 speed master link has just arrived and I will be changing it.
Thanks for the video. I bought some kmc reusable master links for my 11sp Ultegra chain and they are too loose (can easily undo them by hand), so am intrigued by your experience of then being a tighter fit. I am fairly certain mine aren't fake; they look high quality and were bought from a reputable bike shop. They seem to rely on the width of the inner link on your chain being great enough to hold the pin ends in their slots (whereas Shimano quick links push past an obstruction longitudinally), but on my chain it doesn't hold. I am now looking at trying YBN links.
Double check the KMC reusable master link and make sure it's the one for Shimano 11 speed chains. I've dealt with many KMC master links and with the proper link, the KMC that is compatible with the manufacturer of your chain and the speed (11 speed) should not be loose. Re-check what's written on the package the KMC link came in (if you still have it). Let me know. Tony
Tony, I bought 25/bulk KMC X9 chains with bulk links included. I've used these X9 chains before, as well as SRAM w/Powerlinks, all went on/off easily. These however will simply not engage the quick links. I'm at a loss, they've always gone on easily by hand. I sent some connectors to the vendor and of course, "they work for us". Really ? Then I tried a 9-sp missing link from a retail pack I had for emergency use, and it went on EASILY, like they always have. So What on earth do I do now, besides buying all retail missing links, which negates the bulk savings ? I can't say I believe the vendor, but nonetheless I'm left holding the bag, literally.
I am very disappointed in KMC and would contact the vendor/dealer from whom you bought the chains and links and demand your money back, but I'll leave that decision up to you. Obviously there's something wrong here despite what KMC says about their bulk links. I, myself, use SRAM 9 speed chains and master links. Would your customers be willing to pay a little more for better quality (since the retail pack is a bit more expensive)? Let me know what you decide. Regards, Tony
According to an email I received from SRAM the powerlink is non-directional. The arrows are there to simply inform you that the link needs to be pulled to snap into place to complete installation.
I'm not sure who sent you the email but this is what SRAM has on their website: "While SRAM's chains are not directional, but the 9 speed SRAM QUICKLINK with an arrow is DIRECTIONAL. This arrow should put in the direction the chain is moving." See page 17 of the SRAM Specification Manual below (Click on the User Manual Cassettes and Chains PDF and go to page 17): www.sram.com/en/service/models/cn-plnk-9spd-a1 And here's another interesting development: My newest batch of SRAM 9 Speed Quicklinks are IDENTICAL ON BOTH SIDES with NO ARROW present on either side (meaning are non-directional). Could your email contact have gotten these two mixed up? Go figure! This is what makes bicycle repair and maintenance a challenging but fun job. Thanks for your comment and regards, Tony
i just got a brand new 6-speed KMC chain and its missing link went together with ~2lbs of force. I seriously hope its by design and not some defect, it didnt include a spare for emergency.
You can buy spare 6-speed KMC master links from Amazon. Don't forget to check both sides of the master link (inside plate and that facing outward) that the pins are fully engaged with the master link. If so, it should work. Regards, Tony
Question: If using a quick link with an original (great condition) chain, do you have to shorten the chains by one link? My chains only have the pins, no master/missing link.
1/2 a link shorter (remove outer link portion at one end) which will be replaced by the quick link. Will be coming out with a video on this in the next several months. Regards, Tony
Hi Tony, I’ve learned that my KMC 10s masterlink can be removed very easily after I get it disengaged like you said. So will there be any chance my chain will come undone while riding?
There should be enough tension on the chain to prevent the master link from becoming disengaged (provided the master link is correctly installed with both pins engaged). On the 10s KMC master links I've used, I have not been able to easily disengage the link. Are you running a 10 speed chain? Is the master link marked as 10speed or come with a 10speed KMC chain? Is this an old pre-used master link (they do wear and become easy to remove - and used master links can fail - I've had this happen)? If you bought the 10speed KMC master link separately, it should be marked as Shimano/SRAM compatible or Campagnolo compatible if used for other then KMC. All these factors effect the ability of the master link to hold or fail. Let me know. Regards, Tony
Have you tried chain wax, sir? I'll be trying Squirt on my new chain. Says to strip the factory lube totally. Those who use Squirt say to immerse in degreaser for hrs then last would be denatured alcohol. What do you think of this procedure? Harmful to the chain, or totally ok?
No, it would not be harmful. But I just use degreaser, followed by rinsing with water, soap and water scrub and rinse and dry as in the following video (the video also covers other parts of the bike that I clean - so look through it and use the parts of the video that apply to you): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bQ7SF_uRyqE.html You can also do the same using any type of aluminum tray or container that's handy. I have used Squirt in the past. It's important to wipe down the chain and cassette as the Squirt residue gets dirty and black looking before adding more Squirt - to prevent build up of residue on the chain and cassette. Let me know what you think of the Squirt as you use it over the coming weeks. Safe cycling, Tony
Sir, I have a cheap 15 speed mountain bike that needs a new chain. It has a derailer. The chain is already connected together with the master link. My question is do I have to take out the master link in order to install it? I know nothing about derailers and how to install the chain in one.
No, you don't have to take out the master link. Your can just use a chain tool to "break" the chain. As to installing a new one, here's a video that may help. You will need some good quality tools as shown in the video and a chain that comes with a master link. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-02-WEIVoT78.html This may seem difficult at first, but with practice, it become a piece of cake. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed Tony, of course I already took the master link off before I read your answer. I got the horseshoe clip off but it landed somewhere in my gigantic garage and I can't find it. Now I did buy a small bag of master links and , they already come assembled. I have no idea they came like that. Anyway,what is the easiest way to hold onto the link while removing the clip?
Some have re-used them even more times. I install compatible re-useable quick links which allow me to remove the link up to 7 times (according to KMC) if I should want to thoroughly clean the chain during the life of the chain. However, when installing a new chain, install a new quick link since the quick link wears as much as the chain. I have also seen quick links fail if a worn link is re-install on a new chain. Anyway, those are my observations.
Some do not. Shimano chains have a special pin when installing the chain (which is hard to find) while others may have been put together with a chain tool. To remove a worn chain, just use a chain tool. Then take the old chain and lay it on the floor and line up the new one next to it as in the following video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-02-WEIVoT78.html Now assemble the chain with the master link. Regards, Tony
This is a complex problem as bike are adapted to larger cassette cog size and and the length of the rear stays become longer to accommodate larger and wider tires. If your bike is already equipped with a chain, you can remove it and count the number of pins to determine a replacement (with chains, we are taking about the number of pin/rollers rather then links where each link includes an inner and outer plate). Here are some references that demonstrate some of the complexities we are experiencing with chain length: www.statecyclist.com/bike-chain-size-chart/ and bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/59549/what-are-the-different-uses-for-the-110-vs-114-vs-116-link-bike-chains Regards, Tony
Hopefully you are carrying a multi-tool with a chain breaker. You'll need to remove the broken master link (and replace it if you're carrying a spare) or repair the chain as in the video below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wr3GfSrL68k.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Master Links don't often break unless they're put on improperly (the pins are not engaged on both sides) or they've been reused to many times. When you change your chain, you should always install a new master link. Regards, Tony
This is a quote from KMC for the question about their reusable link : "there are re-usable and non re-usable MissingLinks. The re-usable ones you can reuse them for the whole lifetime of the chain. The non reusable ones you can only reconnect them a maximum of 3 times". Regards, Nad
Thanks nad. There seems to be a lot of debate in the cycling industry about this. Can you supply me with the KMC web link where you got this information. It would be extremely useful for our viewer. Regards, Tony
sweet 1st cav shirt! my 10 speed shimano chain is like the one you have....i have a kmc link, i notice that on every forth pedal- when the link gets to the point on the very rear of the cassette i can feel it ever so slightly in my feet- just a little click...i tried indexing the shifter, filing down the edges on the link, i might just have to live with it...do you notice this on yours?
No, I have not had that problem with the 10 speed Shimano chain and the KMC master link. Make sure the master link is a 10 speed and the package material should say for Shimano. Also check that the link pins are completely inserted (and pulled to the outside of the link) on both sides. Otherwise, replace the master link with a KMC 10 speed for Shimano. You may need master link pliers (such as that from Park tool) to replace the link. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony
It should not unless the following: 1. The master link was not engaged on either side as it was installed (either using master link pliers or pushing down on the pedal). See: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--v4u9pkpIns.html 2. The master link does not match the speed of the chain (10, 11 or 12 speed) or is not made for your specific chain). 3. The master link has been re-used a number of times and is worn. Use a new master link when installing a new chain. There are re-usable links but even these need to be replaced when installing a new chain. 4. There's a problem with either the chain or master link itself. Holding the master link in place while getting the master link pins to shift to the outer part of the links pin holes can sometimes be tricky. But once locked in place should not come undone. Good luck and try again. Regards, Tony
Maybe you can clarify your question. Do you mean: why does the speed (9, 10, 11 or 12) of the master link matter? Or does this relate to the writing on the master link?
The 10 speed chain is narrower then the 9 speed and, unfortunately, a 10 speed master link will not work on a 9 speed chain. You can order 9 speed master links on Amazon. They are not expensive and I usually keep several extras on hand in my shop. Regards, Tony
MY QuiK ~ Link is as Tight as A Catfishs Bum ...Should I pour Hot h2°° over it Or Bite the Sapphire Bullet and just Break the Chain via the Pins ? My Noo KMC With Renewable Missing Q.L. is on Standbye 🦕🌐?
If you're just replacing your worn chain, see: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-02-WEIVoT78.html If you are setting up a new bike, you'll need to size the chain which is a topic we will be covering soon. Regards, Tony
I have always put chains on and left it on for the life of the chain. I clean the chain on the bike, I lean the bike to the right and let the solution drip. I never used any quick links or master links, I always carry a Alien II multi tool. I have had quick links break on me and the chain got wedged down between the cassette and spokes damaging all of the spokes nearest the cassette. I ride a 27 speed, 9 in back is plenty. I think the idea is to reduce the need to shift the chain rings?
Todays compact chainring set are just that - to reduce the need to shift. But a 9 x 3 (triple) still gives you the most options. I, too, carried an Alien II for many years (hear and in Europe) and fixed many a chain (and many other parts of the bike). But todays chains and master links have become better quality over the years and I rarely see a broken chain. As to the master link, if put on correctly (as well as checking both sides of the master link that the pins are engaged and moved to the outer part of the link), the master link holds up well. It only seems to fail when the pins are not fully engaged or the wrong speed (9, 10, 11, 12) master link is matched with the wrong speed chain. In fact, when used correctly, the master links seem to be superior method we used to use just using our chain tool. With all that said, thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony
Are you using a chain hook as shown in the video below (you can make one from an old coat hanger): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x9Ri0p6bsNw.html Have you considered using master link pliers along with the chain hook? Let me know if either of these solve your problem, and if not, let me have some more details on how you are installing the master link. Regards, Tony
@@tony10speed thank you, sir, I think I figured out my rookie mistake: I was trying to fit the master link into the outer part of the link, not the inner. Most video tutorials assume that people know, but I sure didn't!😅
Look at the rear cassette and count the number of cogs. That's the "chain speed" and the master link should correspond to that number. If you have a triple up front and a 7 cog cassette, many call that "21 speed." That's because you have a choice of 7 x 3 different combinations of chainrings and cogs. However, when we are referring to the chain, the width of the chain or master link depends on the number of cogs of the cassette. So, in our example with the triple above, we have a 7 cog cassette meaning we use a 7 speed chain and 7 speed compatible master link. If we had a 11 cog cassette we'd use an 11 speed chain (which has a narrower outer diameter and will therefore fit on the 11 speed cassette). I think the bike industry does this just to keep us on our toes. By the way, 6, 7 and 8 cog cassettes use similar chains (sold as: 6/7/8 speed chain). Regards and safe cycling, Tony
FFS I'm an idiot. I thought I had to push the pins out part way to get this off and then I accidently pushed one all the way out with my pin remover lol
You may be interested in another of our videos on master link tools: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x9Ri0p6bsNw.html&ab_channel=TonyMarchand Regards, Tony
