DUDE you just saved me..I replaced my chain on an tourney RD...and I did that thing with the chain running under that plate! no wonder I could not back pedal and it felt really harsh riding on the big cog up front. lol, thanks!!
I reuse my quicklinks a lot since years, all of those are "non reusable" ones . Sometimes I i open and close them daily because i wash my chain off the bike. Never had any problem with them. Dont throw everything into the garbage after one instance of use. Only if it is worn with the chain together
@@rcs2003 can relate, i live close to the sea so no matter what my chain is always dirty em rusty, i clean it one day and in the next it is already dirty :c
Jeez, I’ve been breaking chains for years without using a master link and had only one failure! Well after watching this video I learned some new things and will need to have a spare master link for each bike. I use simple green to clean my chains while on the bike, blow them dry with compressed air, lubricate the chain with a “wet lube” and then wipe dry. I do this on my year round fat bike commuter (through the winter crud) have 3500 miles on the chain and it still works great! Great video! Thank You!
This was such a huge help. I routed my chain incorrectly in the rear derailleur and was struggling a lot to find a way to fix it without removing the chain. Don't know how I never thought of the pulley wheel idea though 😂 anyway, I'm all sorted out!! Thank you very much!!
Yup, I routed the chain wrong between those 2 back pulleys, grinding sound but shifting was fine, then I saw your video. I split the quick link and rerouted the chain, no more grinding. Thanks for your help, your videos are the best.
@@cshigley And it's amazing how well it works, shifts perfectly, but that little grinding noise that I thought would eventually resolve by itself. However, with the chain properly routed it's totally smooth and noiseless.
My chain cleaning trick: a shaker jar and gasoline. Works like a charm. Air dry and lube the chain well. Next cleaning, use a different shaker jar, and transfer the gasoline over without disturbing the sediment. Then clean the jar. One shaker jar of gasoline lasts several months. Just use caution storing the used gasoline. And lastly, I’ve used the same master link for years, to include a ride across the country with no issues, but I always carry a spare.
I tried for the first couple of years with my latest bike (I have only owned and ridden a single bike at a time)... to keep it clean and shiny all the time, immaculate. I obsessed over the chain to the point of cleaning it during rides. This is all while averaging over 7K miles a year, 20 to 120 mile rides year around. That means for me, living in the Pacific Northwest, 4 to 6 months of riding in the rain and on muddy wet surfaces. I have a Rohloff Speedhub mounted on a full-suspension touring bike coupled to a BBSHD mid-drive and it's amazing. It's broken me to ever owning another bike without a Rohloff. The mid-drive and the Speedhub are made for each other, they go together like lamb and tuna fish. @ The 1st year I rode I changed the chain 8 times... whenever it got to 0.5% wear as tested with a Park tool. After another 25K miles and 4 years riding I now wipe the chain clean daily and swap my chains every 6 months. Drop the chain, flip or replace the Rohloff gear, mount a new chain, and ride. Always having a straight chain line makes it amazingly easy to maintain. 11 Jul 19 - 71 miles w/front panniers & trailer on less than 15Ah... 1/2 the packs capacity. www.relive.cc/view/g37290970278 photos.app.goo.gl/RD1NrDPCZQuHpWja9 For anyone that thinks they can really clean the chain on the bike, follow this guy's instructions then pull the chain and drop it in some type of solvent and see how filthy it still is.
I always try to clean chain, rear cogs, pulleys and crankset after each ride. Then lube it all with some good wet chain oil, leaving it for set up a couple of hours, finally wipe off excess lube on the chain before next ride. Never leave drive train dirty or wet overnight as you recommend. Really nice tips here! Congrats.
yeah I learned the hard way, bolt came loose, and the cage went into the rear wheel taking the wheel with it! The cage was all bent into the cassette too
Yes, a chain will look like that after a couple days of being wet, when the thing isn't oiled like it should be. But I've revived even the rustiest bike chains simply by oiling them and running them normally, even seized bike chains are still good. I've never had issues using even the worst, pitted bike chain, not even with breakage, and I was certainly rough with bikes when I was younger.
Good video - I've done 2 of the mistakes. 3 if you count that I never wash or dry my winter commuting bike. The most frustrating mistake is the upside-down eagle link which is only an issue when on the 11t cog. The chain is kicked off the cog when the link hits the lock-ring. I spent an hour troubleshooting the derailleur only to realize I was a moron.
Thanks, like many commentors, I re-use my quick link. I cannot imagine the means of failure as the pin is tensioned in to the narrow part of the link. I do however carry a new quick link at all times. Reckon I can repair a broken chain faster than a puncture. Only had a few chain breaks, I am a heavy guy, they break when you are standing up, the crossbar breaks your fall and your balls, so you tend to remember chain breaks.
lol those were the days. and ive broken so many chain breakers using kmc chains i still carry a nail and something with a hole in. 😄 rocks are easy to find usually.
A lot of steels have an anti rust treatment that can be stripped by anti rust oils like WD40 type penetrate oil. Then the metal rust after the thin layer of oil comes off. I blue gun steel in touch up areas with a tool coating liquid that is copper based. It turns the raw steel black. My bike chains are also sensitive to being chemically stripped by a "rust inhibitor" oil that actually causes more problems than solves.
the r wears out too..it works but it becomes really very loose. i dont trust em. as soon as its loose (like 4 removals) i replace it. they say reusable but how many times..once...twice..its not the life of your chain thats for sure.
My Shimano chain broke after 2500-3000 miles. It was the one I got when I bought the bike, so I never bothered to look into chain maintenance other then lubrication and basic cleaning. When I started looking into videos about chain mounting/de-mounting I found out it was put on backwards with the signs on the inside. I wonder if that could be to blade for it breaking and wearing out fast.
new subscriber, love my bikes and to tinker thanks for the tips:) sorry but couldn’t help noticing your portable jbl boombox in the background love those i own 2 :)
The first 1: 45 of the videos. When I was a young kid. I never had special tools for bikes I still don't I've always split them with a chisel or screwdriver and mushrooms the end over never had any problems.
How do you mushroom the pins? I'm worried about my spliced chain will break up in the same joint because it's a emtb with 90-95 nm torque (which is why I think it should have something closer to a mc chain)
What is special about the Shimano Steps CN-E6070 E-Bike Chain and do they not include missing link because supplied connecting pin is better or just less expensive?
@@amdmamdm it’s a mountain bike they shake, rattle & roll anyway! I really don’t have to change it as I don’t hear a click? I think I’m just blessed! 👍🏻
If you use a chain for more than 1000 miles you will have to replace the cassette and the chain rings much more frequently. Breaking the chain 30 times in 1000 miles is really excessive.
I hear people say not to reuse the pins and the use a master link, but I bin reusing my pins for the last 25 years and never had an issue. As long as the link is tight, it should be stronger than a master link.
@Alfred Wedmore According to KMC, a 6 speed (they don't make a 5 speed anymore!) is 3/32", whereas a 10-speed is 11/128". That's only a 9% difference. Note to self... measure the actual width of the chain on the Raleigh.
The mechanic install my shimano chain incorrectly. The logo of the hg was inside which is suppose to be on the outside. I used my bike already for about 300km+..Is it ok to place the chain on the correct side or it should be place the way it was before?
😥changed chain and cassette yesterday...today after only 30km it's making noises again (that's why i changed the old stuff). but i just whiped the original lube a bit down and after 25km i oiled it with wet condition chain lube
i'll throw one in. dont use an oval (absolute black) chainring with an sxg chainguide. hopped off a kerb the other day. the chain..i think..folded on itself during a suspension squish where the smallest width of the oval is, chain (kmc..very tough) tore itself apart. one of these fairly new devices that i love had to go. had to ditch the chainring :/ meh.
Really great video.. i didn't know about all of those. Interesting to know that there are some quick links designed to be reused. So i guess if you rewax chain every 300 miles and you ride 6000 miles in a year then you need 20 non reusable sets of quick links? Oh man. I don't think my quick links are reusable and I've been waxing my chains every 200-300 miles for two years now and haven't yet had a single failure.. honestly I'm getting concerned with the age of the chains despite then not showing any signs of stretching.
The connex links are probably what you want, they're a bit more expensive but rather than relying on friction to keep them together, there's a labyrinth for the pins to follow and stop them coming out so totally reusable for ages.
Quick links are very sturdy and easy to use. Sometimes you may need a piece of thin wire (e.g. the used inner wire from the derailleur) to open the quick link if it's really tight. It's important to clean the chain before the lubrication. The cheapest way is 1 liter plastic bottle with some amount of diesel fuel just to cover the chain. Don't shake it too much. Then you cut the bottle, take out the chain and put it on a piece of cloth. Take your time and carefully clean each link with another cloth.
Brake cleaner, this stuff removes anything oil/grease base solutions.. then i would use PTFE (aka teflon) spray to oil the chain, and use some old t-shirt (or any rag) to wipe the excess oil off oh, and when applying spray on the chain.. if you have the chain on, spray it at front cog... if you spray it at the rear there is a good chance that you also oil your brake disc and pads... you can use brake cleaner to clean the disc, but you need to replace the pads if this happens... (damn i felt stupid when i did this -.-) i have ~3000 miles on my chain, and the bike is used all year round.. from +30c to -30c, in rain and in snow
Ahhhhh I have made the derailleur mistake 😂 really irritating, felt really silly. Also thank you for the great info about split links... I boil my chain in wax and Teflon and I am just never sure how many times I can use a quick/split link. Always awesome info ....Thanks you.
Thanks for your tips! Much appreciated. Anyways just want to share that I’ve been using kerosene to use for chain shake, it’s cheap and cleans amazingly!👍
Hi, I did this mistake, I could not believe how and only realized it after 30km of bunch ride, did not have time to stop and check... ;) It rattled all the way long, pretty noisy.
Haha...I made mistake number 3, just today! I can't tell you how many times I've changed out my drivetrain in the past 30 years and I made that mistake for the first time, today! I guess that's what happens when one becomes complacent and doesn't pay close attention, lol :).
I've made the same mistake with the routing of the chain I ride with 1000 watt mid drive motor 160 nm and actually works better on small cogs no skipping put it right skipping on high load again new chain gonna stick it back and grease it
Lol, I lost a master link about 20 years ago, had to knock pins out with a hammer, pushed one back in and rode the bike for years, there was never a problem. It might be an issue for more expensive chains, but most people are only paying $20 to $30 for a chain.
Mileage on a chain depends on what you're doing with that... on ebikes for example wearing must be 0.5 for replacement and the chain lasts about 1500/2000 km maximum... even with maximum care.
i see kmc do an ebike version now...but im a bit skeptical as its the exact same weight as the the standard heavy version they make. also because they made that diamond like coating thing...i dont want diamonds on my sprockets..much rather replace a worn chain 🤣
I work with homeless folks in Florida and a LOT of them ride bikes. They have all manner of Bikes, Trikes, E-Bikes, etcetera, and MOSTof them do NOT do regular, if ANY maintenance on their bikes! I pass on good info like this but I have not seen any chain breaks in 2 years (So Far) The most maintenence their bikes get is MAYBE adding some air to the tires so their tires do not go COMPLETELY flat! You know, I TRY to help, but it's like P*****g in the wind, mostly! Sometimes, I feel more sorry for their bikes than I do for THEM! Lol!
Dodo on embn tech Said Don't clean the new chain ,he claims that the lube sram etc use is the Best and that the chain is perfectly lubed when buying a new chain.he said that you shouldn't not even lube it for a little while because your lube Will replace the lube in the rollers on the chain and no lube is as good for the rollers as the fabric greas that they lube it with when producing it.. still it's a good video...a lot better than he's break check video
the kmc guys showed up on the forums and quoted the same. it makes em look bad if people mess it up is all. use a soft teflon wax and go through the whole procedure properly and its much nicer than the installed grease. maybe change it when youd normally lube your chain but honestly the black gunk is gonna be all up in those links not a nice clean little spread of grease like youd expect. theyre actually quite loose fitting inside. whats harder to get out of a tight gap using movement and water..a wax or grease. 🤷
@@luminousfractal420 I tried many lubes but the only one I never broken a chain while using is ballistol it's not really for bicycles but its really good and it's a spray can so it's easy to get in those rollers ,,in emergency you can also use in your bicycle Lock if it gets stuck because rain or something washed out the oil.. but after using it every Day for a couple of weeks it gets black but it's wet so don't use it if you need dry lube
Excellent video. I use Ozzie’s method of wax/Teflon. According to him his chain (Connex) lasts 15,000 kms. It sounds like your chains last a long time, as you clean them? Likewise, keeping my chains & drivetrain has been key, and my club think I am a perfectionist. I started using YBN SLA as they, like Connex, are strong & long lasting. Are you only using KMC upto 50%? As that’s what I was recommended (using park tool)
