Sorry guys i had to remove a user for the comments... Please do not come on here cursing to try and get a point across. YES guys i understand that your not suppose to mix batteries.... That would be the reason for getting rid of them (come on guys think about it) And yes it is advised not to mix them. Does not say you can not. I also advise against it but i had a reason for this. Thank you guys and keep it clean.
I'm getting ready to build a 20 panel array. I've been looking all over the tube for the type of display I want. Found this tilting display👊 Drove 3 10' -3" pipe in ground.. getting ready for the build👊
I've never had the need for an active balancer, simply set up the balance settings correctly (talking about Andy) and leave it alone. I do have an active balancer as well as a JK BMS, but tried out the active balancer once and took it off. No need for something else to go wrong, or extra connections on the terminals. Top balance and be done with it. Maybe I just got better cells, but even my grade B cells are still balanced two years later. Charge to 3.45v, balance on charge starting at 3.4v, and like I said, two years later and the JBD is still doing great.
@@Tech4UbyJames Yes, I tested one. It is more expensive and then I saw Andy test one and blow a FET. Fortunately it didn't die as a short like they usually do. The 10 BMS I currently use are JBD, they started out doing BMS for medical devices and it shows in their quality. JK is nice, but really has two problems to me, price and the problem of people thinking that an active balancer is an answer to a perceived problem. Like I said, I top balance and never had any problems. The JK gives people who don't know what they are doing the ability to really mess up their capacity. I certainly hope that Andy blowing one up is not the norm, but I will stick with what works for me.
@@john_in_phoenix yes he did. But i only used the balancer for initial setup and may do it twice a year. I will watch the batteries to see. Thank you for the info.
I’ve got 200 kWh. 10 JK BMS’s. You won’t regret it. I bought two EG fours from Signature solar. Most likely will be the last purchase ever from them. They have very poor customer service. They need to slow down, hire and train some people. I started out testing my cells. Now I just buy from 18650, hook the JK BMS to them and Wall-a. A few cycles they’re balanced. 2 A does the trick.
Those type of premade batteries come with the cheapest BMSes they can get away with. I would suggest replacing the BMS with a higher quality 200+ amp ones. The wiring is all there, so it would mostly just be configuring the BMS. What you don't want to do is to parallel 2 different chemistrys to provide the needed current. You will end up with lotsa charge/discharge cycles from the 2 chemistries trying to normalize each other and will quickly degrade both. Looks like your on the right path. I'll follow along 😉
Thank you... You hit the nail on the head with the smaller cycles. But as far as replacing the BMS's I think i will build more batteries and find a new home or project for the old ones....
Can you make a video on why those batteries suck. Not just telling why they suck, can you show them trying to start the mini-split or other things they should be able to power?
If you want to but a better battery I'd recommend Trophy batteries. Higher quality components for the same or less than those EG4 batteries. Trophy battery has outstanding customer service unlike Signature Solar's awful customer service. I'm in the process of sending back one of their EG4 inverters. They sold me broken inverter. I'm getting my money back and never doing business with them again.
@@Tech4UbyJames I suppose you are new at this. Better listen to what people are trying to tell you and try to learn from them. How long do you think you will run a mini splint with just two batteries?
@@jimmieweaver3961 If he purchased the NEW ac/dc mini-split units from Signature Solar, he could run a 2ton all day (Sun required) on 7-8 panels and NO BATTERIES.
@@mwreyf1 Maybe, but that's not what's he running. He's doesn't have enough amps in those two batteries to run the unit he has, so he says the batteries are junk.
A soft start cap lowers inrush by OPPOSING A CHANGE IN VOLTAGE. It prevents voltage from sagging as compressor is trying to drag it down which causes current to shoot up.
You should check out DIY Solar Pappa ch on RU-vid that what he specializes in running mini-split heat pumps of all kinds and sizes off of solar and batteries I'm running a Senville 1-ton mini-split with 16-120ah cells in 24v
@@Tech4UbyJames Yes he sure is out there in Arizona right by SanTan Solar I ordered my panels from there Georgia location I'm in Ohio but I wanna try and run a 18000 BTU on my solar that's my next project
I also have the life power batteries six total they would not start my 4 ton central AC compressor which has a huge surge start. I’m surprised they won’t start your mini split because usually mini splits have a soft start either way if you’re trying to run an AC system with a large surge compressor start I would recommend using the micro air soft start. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4CXO_DM8U58.html It works great. I have it installed online. I also did a video of the micro air system running. I don’t think the life power is a bad battery from what I’ve experienced the life power battery doesn’t work well with low numbers I would recommend a minimum of four batteries even though it’s 100 A Max the recommended amperage was I believe 30 A per battery
I am sure if i had one more battery i could run the mini split. But for the money i spent on one to be delivered to me at only 100ah i got 280ah's. But with locked down BMS's in the Lifepower batteries they restrict them way to much.
