Big Block 400 Build Series: The Controversial Cam Button  

The second timing tab was added so that an earlier ( or possibly later) water pump housing could be used. Early has the bottom hose on driver side, later on passenger side. Damper should have an added TDC mark to correspond

Something as small as this can make a big difference. Great video.

Nice work Joe. My last 498 went 10 years on the street with a solid roller, roller cam button and stamped steel cover. The 588 will run the same set up. You will be fine. As always thanks for sharing your knowledge. Kevin

So essentially you are relying on the assumption that the deflection of the cover is consistent when you pry against it. As simplistic as it is, I actually think this is a safe assumption. I’m assembling a 400 based 470” roller cam motor soon. I think I’ll use this method and see if I can come to a level of comfort with my measurements. Thanks Joe! Subscribed.

Nice video! You are well on your way to having a scream'n 400 !!!

I learned something new . I’m gonna make a mechanic eventually just by watching your videos .

Nice work, good video Joe. This is such a important process. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.

Loving all the engine builds you do Joe ! Keep up the great work

Always interesting and good learning experience for some. I watch for the entertainment and enjoyment, plus I can always learn something new daily. So I can always enjoy with my family and passing it on is always fun with the comments. Great evening JMJ! 💯

Another primo video Joe on something that most of us don't think about.😊

Cam buttons are always a great idea on any engine that doesn't have a solid physical retention. Plus not to mention, the way the pump/dist. drive gears are set up, the torque applied to those gears will usually push the camshaft backwards into the block. But of course, that second method of retention is not always a 100% guarantee.

looks good as long as you shim between the cover and water pump or reinforce the cover.otherwise.....the cover will flex and your cam will walk more than .010 .

It looks like a very nice build . I've been playing with BB mopars since 1980 .

Good going Joe , chase the details to the finish line!👍✋🏻

Nice Mopar engine!

Love these videos Joe, it's been a lot of years since I built and engine so it's awesome that we are both building 400s at the same time. Thanks for the refresher.

Great to see the progress!👍

Very nice Joe. I can't wait to see it running now. 😊

Hey Joe, what worked well for my roller cam setup was.. stock steel cover (like yours), but the trick was finding a 1/8" thick "rare earth" magnet that took up the slack between the stamped cover and the water pump. Eliminating the possibility for the cover to flex. I setup for .007" endplay. I also used a timing set with a Torrington bearing behind the cam gear. Working well so far. 👍

That's great info! Thanks for sharing!

Looks like you got it going your way Sir!

Everybody take a drink every time he says "button"

Very nice. Thanks for the procedure.

Attention to detail!

Thanks for taking the time to go thru your procedure. Like most 73 year olds, I thought I knew it all. I can tell you when a person quits learning (at least with cars), they quit going faster. Given the choice would you build a 400 based stroker or a 440 based stroker?

I like your plan.....Don't know what ARP is thinking & using for Prototype & Design, but sometimes Not the OEM parts.....I prefer the original Bolts.....Oh well.....Easier to take some off than make it Longer !!......Thx for showing ......

Well you learn something new every day. I've never setup a cam on a big block so I didn't know this was a thing. Oh and FYI, I am 99% sure that The Bandit approves of your T-shirt. Appreciate it!

Hey Joe just grind down the bolts some.😂

There are more ways than one to skin a cat and I think your way will work just fine I have seen and done it a lot of different ways adjustable with torrington bearings but it ain't rocket science your way is easy and effective and the way I have done it for the last 30 years so yes now I have been waiting on your 512 stroker build sheet want to put it in my 69 valiant the 440 in the valiant is going in my 85 ram 250 two wheel drive my budget is only allowing me to run 440 sorce heads but with some porting I think it will still run good for a 4 speed street car always thanks for sharing your videos

I have a trick I use with 2 sockets and my press. I take the cover and mark the button with grease like you did but use one socket just bigger than the button then another that socket fits into. Put in my press and make it push about the thickness of the cover and your done. Easy mod.

Great video Joe. I have a question tho. With the indicator on the front of the timing cover when you check the endplay, to me thats just checking deflection of the cover itself and not the endplay of the cam. Machinist sitting here scratchong my head. Can someone help me out here?

Awsome video!!! One step closer my friend. Where did you get that MOPAR wall art with the American flag? I really like it. I can't wait to see the dyno numbers on this motor. Probably gonna be very close to how I have mine rebuilt. Mine will be for just cruise'n around and sunday drives. Keep the videos come'n...💯😎

More thought into this….. I think I’d be even more comfortable if after finding “zero” with the cover, you also measured the button assembly itself before and after filing / adjusting it. Then find the same dimension and correlation with this timing cover method.

On an earlier video. I just was able to score one of those radiators on Ebay for my Demon. I even got a $10 discount offer from them. So it was $159 minus $10. Will let you know how it fits !! Thanks for the info ! Nice shirt ! 👍

To bad you don't have a bigger big block .You could drop it in the Baracuda ! 😂 Just messing with you Joe. This is Rich MWDD . I'm up my buddies on his phone . 😆 No Wi-Fi

Put 2 PC of masking tape on the cover 1 pc is .003 -.005 thick so 2 is around. 010 , then do it grind button until it doesn't touch the cover or move the indicator pull tape and you have .010 clearance..

I think i would use a cast aluminum cover. You forced it forward farther in your first tests, then in the final test you just brought it to contact. You have to stay consistent with your method.

I have no idea what forces there are against the cam button at 7000rpm. but i reacon its a helluva more than screwdriver ever makes. Take care brother.

These are the down falls of rollers in the b/rb series. 1 bronze drive wear 2 no standard method of setting end play 3 heavy under performing hydraulic rollers. 4 cost 5 Valve train wear from high spring pressure Roller cams are great, but with the performance potential of the .904 diameter mopar flat tappet most guys can have huge performance without the hassle of the roller. As long as correct break in is followed, and high zddp non detergent oil is used, large light high revving flat mechanical tappets can beat a lower revving hydraulic roller. Remember block passage mods must be done to the b/rb series in order to exceed 6500 rpm. Remember how these things still set records before we used rollers??

Got to admit I have never taken the cam walk into consideration especially on a B/RB engine.or the flex on the timing cover. Probably bc I figured only the pro's worry about stuff like that.

Good video JOe. This is Bob again I have a 1070 barracuda with the 512 kit from 440 source, I am just starting to put it together. Its actually a 505, 4.350 bore with 4.250 stroke. mine is a 440 (1970)and yours us a 400. What is the specs of your 508?

Is the gear in for the oil pump and dist that will change things.

I know it'd ruin an original Mopar timing cover, but could you weld a piece of channel iron across the front to stiffen it up? Or along with that, weld in a threaded bung so you could fine-tune the runout? Not sure any of that would clear the water pump, though.

The thickness of a button on a 3 bolt seems to be out 25 or so thousands vs the thickness of the head of a stock single bolt. If you have that much walk not controlled by your timing chain/gears then you have bigger problems. To be fair, I have never had a 3 bolt cam to need a button but I expect that you dont even need it? I will stipulate that Im not experienced with solid roller big block stuff, hence my inquiry here.

Joe what about clearance on a solid roller single bolt? I didn’t use a cam button or check clearance or how much cam walks

Another Great video Joe , I can't get myself to spend the money on a roller cam set up . The 493 I have my friend Dan building me is getting a Racer Brown STX22 solid flat tappet ( Racer Brown grinds cams for Chrysler products not just Chevy patterns on Chrysler cores like most cam companies ) I would have to be building a pretty big engine before I would look at a roller , the only benefit I see to a roller is not having to break it in but that is just me 😎

whoops i never installed button drove that way for 10 years , whoops no problems

Indexed I believe

Peace Burt

Where can a person dyno a Mopar in Arkansas?

I can't wait to hear this engine run and I'd like to see you build a early model 360 j engine full race high compression and the works I'd even supply the pistons and ring's if you show the build of it

When using a steel cover an aluminum cam button should be used, or a steel bushing with a bearing end

You don’t see a ton of movement due to timing chain, distributor/oil pump drive pressure tends to compensate it Obviously there is movement it is something you should at least look at when building a performance eng more so on race engines

I have heard it both ways and both have worked and both have failed. Both have lasted, some need more often servicing . Some lasted 20.years, some less than 2 seasons. As JMJ said so many variables to doing a all reconditioned by a reputable place like JMJ's man (Jim's), doing and checking, blueprint specs on the reconditioning parts, or even spending top dollar on the parts. With the quality control of today and the lies by deception on packaging laws in the US of A. Anyone who decided to hide behind import laws and cheap parts, then send it here to be packed with made in the "USA" on the box, gimmicky and the poor people who buy it for the top price end up with junk especially can be said that they thought they had the best made in America parts to find out that by a flip of a quarter that it might last or or not make it through the break in period are the real victims of the new scam allowed by our nation and across-the-board everywhere to fill pockets with cash should not be allowed but unfortunately I don't know to fix it yet.

I would be smashed by the end of it., "Light weight" I am oh well.

The cover is going to flex? Get a billet cover.