The UNEXPECTED Reason Your Timing is Erratic and How to Prevent it!  

Thanks, Ed!

Thanks, Tim. I figured you may have seen some variation of that. It’s always something! Lol

Awesome! Good luck, Joe!

Very true! Thanks for sharing

The oe or MP Distributors are supposed to be oiled regularly. Pull the rotor, there is a felt or oil wick under there. If you do that, these things last forever.

This makes sense. I think one of the springs broke or came loose in my stock 360 distributor, runs up to max mech advance way too quickly and often sticks there until the RPMs settle below about 1000. I'm swapping it for a Summit billet electronic distributor anyway because they're easier to adjust (and the stock one is points-type with a Pertronix module) but I'll fix up the old one and save it for another engine.

Yes they do! Thanks Cley!

Thanks, Kim!

Thanks for sharing! I wish we could slow motion film these pieces spinning in the engine at 6,000 rpm. Lots of fun science at work!

Whe it is running with the oil pump pushing oil, just like you said it will not budge as it locks face to face on the two gears.

The drive gear is pushed DOWN into the bushing not up. The helix on the cam gear also sucks the cam back into the block. I have run LOTS of 440s with very high mileage for years daily driving as a primary car and then drag racing on the weekend with over 2500 time slips. We had to put a diaper in the bellhousing to catch the oil from the rear main seal and put in a new one every weekend! We wired the dipstick down and oil caps on because the blowby would blow them off. I have actually seen a 440 in a low 10 second dart that was still running 15 years later and had never had the stock 906 heads off. I don't know how many miles it had before it was installed, but it actually blew the valley pan up into a balloon under the intake and was running 11's by then. the guy didn't change it because we were bracket racing and it was consistent! Ours was deadly consistent being the winningest car in the history of that track and made a perfect run, perfect reaction time, perfect dial in, footbraking a six pack C body! I suspect it was blowby that lifted the distributor. That reliability is a far cry from using 2 or 3 brand x engines a year campaigning a 10 second car!

Thanks Thomas. I know every engine has a level of harmonics that goes on when it’s running. I have no idea on how that runs through the intermediate shaft there, if at all.

👍🏻💯🇦🇺⛽️

Thanks John! That’s an awesome idea

Thank you! If the weather is good, the purple barracuda will see a track tomorrow!

Correct. Mopar has always been different, or the outsider. Love it that way and it fits me, eben though, when I fell in love with these cars, I didn't know that.

Thank you, Daniel! I’ve heard of the collar before. Maybe interesting to try.

Hughes engine performance actually sold/sells it

Yes. Rick Ehrenberg has them on E bay under "for Mopar Distributor Collar Timing Stabilizer 340 440 383 Hemi Dodge Plymouth". I'd put a link here but E bay deletes my post every time I try to do the link thing. Also, bronze gears aren't meant to run on the street. They will wear quickly. Well, way more quickly than the steel ones. The answer is running a roller cam that works with the steel intermediate gear. I'm running one from Comp in my stroked 440. There's a lot more newer tech out there now than before.

Haha! Never!

@@JustMoparJoe But I am a sucky mechanic. When I look under a hood, all I can see is darkness and despair 😎😎

@@OldBondoBilly then paint it white!

@@JustMoparJoe Hey! Now yer onto somethin😁😁

That’s a 3/4 cam! 😂

@@JustMoparJoe Oh yeah. I get that from time to time. "Is that a 3/4 cam your running?" Nope. It's a full cam. It wouldn't run with a 1/4 missing.

Awesome, thank you! Good luck with your search 🫡

Thanks brother!

Thanks, John! This one was plenty loose!

Thanks for sharing. My previous experience may have been influenced more by having very light springs in the distributor, and a distributor shaft end that was too short to engage that intermediate shaft. She revved clean but really broke up right after the rev. I was thinking carb, so I switched it and it still did it. Had to fix that connection 🏆

Yes sir. Rodney Byrd was describing that one to me recently. Let me know if you find out anything worth mentioning 👍🏼

I’ll put it on with Allen heads and lock tight 🫣

Thanks Billy

They absolutely will. I had to show the difference between makes of shafts. If they’re both made of the same material, the should expand at the rate.

Thanks brother!

Thanks for sharing

Bronze is an option for roller cams. Most flat tappets use the old stock style.

Thanks, John

Thanks Mike!

Thanks JC. I’ve only built that one ford engine, but the gear on the old distributor was missing several teeth! I’ve never seen such a thing. Is that common?

@@JustMoparJoe I think anything is possible, I've never seen that.

Thanks for sharing, John. This one will have be be like the Racers of yesteryear!

True that! More money 💰

Haha! You called it correctly! Thanks for watching!

@@JustMoparJoe Good sir; these videos continue to prove you are a "builder", not an "assembler"

@@koboskolors I appreciate that. I’d like t be one when I grow up!

It’s very possible. Especially depending on the make of the gear and shaft. So many possibilities

Thanks Shane!

Thanks brother!

Absolutely! Thanks brother

There’s lot to think about on that one. I would check the mechanical advance amount. You may need to add an FBO limiting plate to bring up the initial. It sounds like the vacuum advance pod is over advancing when connected. I’m not sure what source they use for their pods. I know the firecore distributor has both adjustments built in. You may can try to swap the pod from an old distributor on to the Cardone and see if it eliminates the issue.

Thank you! I will check them out for my race engine.

Thanks for sharing! That engine will outlast most new cars on the road today!

@@JustMoparJoe I guess so. I still drive it every day, when it's not raining or snowing. Still runs perfect, with no unusual noises and perfect oil pressure. It uses some oil, but it's still OK. Bought it in 1988, abused, with almost an inch of sludge in the pan! It never caused any problems until May of Last year (almost 63 years!) When I had to replace an exhaust valve, due to unleaded fuel I guess. $50 fix, some porting and back in business. I LOVE these engines.

Thanks Brother

Thanks, Andy!

Thanks for the support!

Thank you, Steve. I have seen the shim style like you have. They seem to be a better idea for sure! I’ve only seen the papers in the felpro kits.

Very nice post! 👍🏼

Thanks for the info!

Thanks, Mike!

Glad I could help!

Here’s the cam. www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-242-248-hydraulic-roller-cam-3-bolt-for-chrysler-383-440.html Both of these gears have the raised portion under them. Using a washer may be a nice solution to set that back lash between the gears.

Thanks Mike!

That’d wild! I would check Mancini, competition products, summit, Jegs, and Hughes engines, Facebook Mopar groups. Someone has one and needs the money.

Excellent!

Very cool!

Thanks, Oly!

The one that I had to weld was the distributor end that went in to a a stock type gear. This gear had the major slack from cam gear to distributor gear. I’m not sure how to properly repair that

Thanks Dina!

Thanks for sharing!

You got buddy!

This is a billet roller cam according to comp cams. Thanks for sharing

Thanks John!

Yes sir. The 440 I’m building now is getting an Erson hydraulic roller cam that is approved for bronze or melonized.

Thanks, Chris!

Yes sir. I wish I had set my dial indicator up to see the difference between the milodon and the other one

Thanks for sharing

You bet! Good luck 👍🏼

Thanks brother

Excellent! Every little bit adds up!

Thanks, Terry! Check out that channel! He’s a good guy, and has some gorgeous trucks!

Glad it was helpful! It was one of those I learned the hard way before

Thanks for sharing. It’s an easy variable to remove with a simple change to a better sized part, that equally eliminates two possible problems.

Thanks Travis! I’ve had it on small blocks too!

Thanks Brother! Hope your projects are going well

Thanks again!

Thanks for checking it out!

Thanks brother! I figured it was with a show and tell. Lol

I do not. I would have to find a service manual and pray that it has has the correct procedure s

@@JustMoparJoe thanks for ur answer mr joe I have tried every video I could find bu all just goes back to old school The tecs don’t want the old schools to have this information Finding things about the L. S NO PROBLEM lol I ask a tec. That does L. S. AN GOT CUSSED OUT I WOULDNT WORK ON A DODGE IF U GAVE IT TO HIM Guess he tried once an got defeated I’m not defeated I want to learn this Dodge is common here in grant Al But no one to work on them; especially a van There easier to work on than a car This is a new factory built from oriles great quality work an build; transmission also Never had a problem with their equipment Recommend them highly Dodge dealers won’t or can’t ( probably don’t know how) it works Had a print out of wiring diagram but it doesn’t match an wires left out or crossed Incomplete I would work for free for someone doing mechanic work to teach me these skills for a while I even built a lift especially for van to lift out the engines ,I’m good at building things for projects

Right on! Hope to see a racetrack today with the barracuda 🫣

Thanks, Jon!

Thanks brother!

No doubt!

Thanks brother

P.s I do check intermediate shaft gears and I never seen that much play! I can understand you making a video out of it 😮

Thank you for sharing! I enjoy learning from others experiences.

Very good question! I just had someone send me their conundrum of the timing being erratic. They hadn’t seen this video, until I sent it. They swapped gears and it was cured!

It was a gift from another channel! Check him out. He may have more to sell. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TFlR7CXfGaY.html

Definitely possible. But with higher needs for specific inputs to please the epa, I think cam and crank sensors rule the world.

@@JustMoparJoe I can believe that as well. The auto industry does nothing without seeing the loss of business as a driving force. Making their products more efficient is just a stop-gap measure before mandating the outlawing all forms of personal transportation (for the children). I'm sure you can see that the internationalist goons giving the orders to the EPA really want us out of cars all together in in controlled high rises you see in the dystopian future movies. They act slowly like the boiling frog analogy making it harder to maintain and upkeep of our passion in the hopes we will just give up and be silent sheeple. Making parts in another country with less quality control and then purposefully slowing delivery of said parts represent just another tic of their clock. I see the next overly open control technique will be the complete and total ban on the production and selling of gasoline in California; since that state seems to ram change down the throat of America.

Thanks brother!

You bet!

Thanks for the support!

Thanks brother!

Thanks, Ray!

Haha! More Polish!

@@JustMoparJoe good man !

Awesome, Burt! I’m a believer!

True that!

Awesome! Thanks for sharing!