Big Italian Chef's Knife Restoration 

V.g.

I bought my first ever kitchen knife around 35 years ago. It was a carbon steel Sabatier that looked just like this one , just a little smaller. Ironically, I gave it to an Itilian friend of mine a few years back. Carbon steel, tool steel, takes and keeps a good edge, but needs a lot of care to stop it coroding. Something that happens very easily when slicing vegetables.

Thats so freaky man. I was watching this guy w a knife just like this on snapchat stories earlier and wondered what kind of knife that was. Randomly clicked this video and lo and behold the answer to my earlier question

Maybe the chef that used the knife was Italian

Yes it look 100%sabatier .i had two of Them . The old version is the best

You are spot on about the electrolysis and the sanding of the plastic or any other hybrid including kydex, g10 etc! The durability and adhesion of my epoxy bonds has increased dramatically since I have followed your methods! Adding more salt and some washing soda or oxyclean really peels the rust off and gets down deep!

That coloured liners between tang and scales on the handle are a modification. A subtle one, but not original.

Calm down. No need for shitloads of exclamation points.

You are severely emoji addicted, seek help!

You need to seek help and have your emoji addiction treated.

If he were a bladesmith, he would have made the blade himself. He restored what was already there, no smithing involved.

This is a simple monosteel without any pattern, no need for ferric chloride.

I agree, but restorers and knife makers generally are interested in the metal and the blade and handle, and don't seem to care much about sharpening. I'd take that knife and probably start on a 220 grit to set the bevel, then 400, 1K, 2K, jump to a 5K, 8K, and finish with a strop. Depending on the steel, and intended use, probably a 15 (fifteen) degree angle. Somehow it looks like HRC 58 - 60 steel, high carbon (many sparks). Once it's got a clean bevel and is sharp, and you don't chip it, keeping it sharp is easy, just 8K occasionally, and strop frequently. For the paper slicing test ... you get junk mail newsprint (finally, a good use for it!) and hold by the left corner while slicing the right side. If it rasps, go back to the 8K and strop until it's smooth. It is possible to get a knife razor sharp on a Bess scale (around 100). I got an HRC 56-58 knife to slice through a rib roast in one stroke, but it started losing right after that, still sharp, but not as sharp. There's a happy medium in there, somewhere, between sharpness and practicality for average domestic kitchen use.

@@davesmith5656 That is literally how I sharpen my knives, although I keep my stainless steel knives at a 1000 grit because frankly it's enough and it's more suited to the german stainless steel, my carbon knives are sharpened to either 3k or 8k depending on the use. It's just that, when I strop, I strop at an actually shallower angle than the sharpening angle, because the leather gives a bit, and with a certain amount of pressure I'd be introducing a steeper angle if I stropped at the same angle with which I sharpened the blade (I use diamond paste).

@@lucaskramer9076 ----- Thank you for the tips, there. I adopted the hobby just a couple of years ago. I haven't tried a carbon (tarnishable) knife yet, and maybe I will now! I use a diamond spray. I do have a Celestron USB microscope at 200X to drive myself nuts with. I sharpened up (repaired edges) my son's wife's knife, left it at 1K, and got back news that she'd cut herself. No further nicks. Most people have never used a sharp knife, and think that factory sharp is as sharp as they get. Funny story: I got one woman with a seven year old set of KitchenAid knives for me to practice on. "They're my favorite knives, and it would be wonderful if you can sharpen them! But ... don't make them too sharp because I'm prone to cutting myself." I'm still laughing about that one. I gave them back with 25 degree bevels, about factory sharp. (I discovered that a 3x18" belt sander is a remarkably useful tool! A thousand grit leaves a HUGE burr, but makes those 1.0 mm chips disappear in a jiffy! Lightly, intermittently, to make sure the blade doesn't heat up. That is the first and last time I offer to do a set! Man .... "Chips" are where steel fractures have surrounded a piece of metal, which then falls off. Other fractures surely remain at a molecular level.)

@@davesmith5656 the truth of the matter with traditional carbon steels (not tool steels that can also rust) is that they're nice if you strop a lot, or if you're willing to give them a pass once or twice a week with a high grit stone, they just don't have that edge-retention, unless you move into japanese 63+ HRC levels. And oh yeah that feedback of "I cut myself" is always a little sad ... I always explicitly tell people now to go slow when I sharpen knives for them, and also tell the people in the household aswell! I sharpened my aunt's knives and my cousin (about 20 y.o. at that time) had to go to the E.R. cause she had cut herself to the bone :'( ! And concerning factory sharpness, I feel like most blades come with either a 400 or 600 grit and (more recently) with a 18-15° sharpening angle (used to be 20° for german/european style knives). Something you might look into if you have a belt grinder as you say, is thinning out the knife, when it has large chips. If the thickness before the actual bevel is too thick, you compromise it's ability to cut through food well. That's why I always manually convex blades on the whetstones, when they had minor chips. It basically makes it more "aerodynamic" for a lack of a better word for it. Since I taught myself how to convex, I have felt a huge performance (re-)gain, especially with older, more often sharpened knives. Also I can usually tell how those chips got in the knife and can tell my customers how to change their behavior, according to the knife's "needs" :D .

@@lucaskramer9076 ---- You too!! (Sharpen friends' knives.) Sorry to hear about your cousin (honestly sorry - I've barely nicked my fingers twice and bled for 15 minutes, horrible feeling as the edge slices so cleanly into a finger). She probably cut nerves as well as vessels. I did coach the woman with the KitchenAid knives ("claw grip"), but I'm still working on it all myself. Told her to never chop unless your other hand is in the next county, and get a cut-resistant glove for $4.99. Go slow is right. Manufacturers may leave their ship-out products as they are, after surveying how western consumers use them. "The first thing your average Japanese does with a new knife is take it home and sharpen it." Not so in the west. I'm also trying out light drawing strokes, nice and even. And watching cooking vids. If the knife is indeed sharp, letting the draw / slice do the work will get the food sliced. Satisfying! Trimming is a bit difficult. A piece of meat on the floor can be washed or replaced, a cut finger isn't so easy. People (I think) get used to using pressure on a knife, as a reflexive habit, and with a sharp one, that's excessive. Chips. Just watched a "Burrfection" video on "soft" cutting boards. I have an HRC 60 and a 63, stainless knives that frustratingly chip very easily. "The Bearded Butcher" did a video in which they explained the (very frequent) use of a butcher's steel on soft knives. It's amazing how sharp those things are - or how skilled they are. A $3,000 Blue #2 (or whatever) yanagiba would be useless to those guys! Destroyed in five minutes. They go for $60 dollar Victorinox. I hope I never have to thin a knife, but thank you for the info. I get convex edges naturally ... don't ask.

It's not a 3D object?

... machinery* / one knife*, multiple knives*

Yes, very much like the Sab profile. I wonder if the knife was ID'ed to a specific maker before it was ground flat.

@@ericfg806 is a premana knife. Probably a sanelli

French style, Italian made.

Given this is an Italian knife making/restoration channel and the words "Italian" and "knife" are in the title, I wonder how one can even come up with this having anything to do with boats or marine navigation.