BIG Reasons Why DIYers Should Stop Wiring Their Outlets This Way | How To Make a Pigtail 

I pigtail every device box. I am a Master Electrician that's been in the trade for over 35 years. I have seen so many problems caused by using a receptacles terminals to complete a circuit instead of pigtailing the wires. Even if everything is done perfect you can still have power quality issues and failures when several devices are being relied on to have the circuit completed. The worse method i usually see, although Code compliant, is having a dozen receptacles daisy chained as well as back-stabbed. Back-stabbing is fine if you are pigtailing and only connecting one hot and neutral to the outlet, otherwise it has a higher potential for failure. Pigtailing is the only way to go. My company policy, even in the hyper-competitive new residential market is to pigtail and screw-wrap ALL devices. It's slower but far superior and not as likely to fail.

some of the circuits in my house were incredibly unstable. Finally, an electrician diagnosed it as 40 year old sockets, wired socket to socket without pigtails. The sockets were simply coming loose. He replaced a couple and the stability went way up! Now, every time we move furniture, I replace the sockets behind the furniture with a pigtail connection and the stability continues to get better. We also found circuits wired backwards (hot to neutral). Without using pigtails, once you get it backwards, everything downline is backwards. I think I've got the worst of it, but have a long way to go! Do it right and you'll save yourself lots of problems. I love the Wago style connectors too. Makes it faster for me!

A convenient aspect of Linemans Pliers is that the mouth often the cutter is 1/2" wide; so if you put your pre-twisted wires in up to the insulation, you'll have a perfect 1/2" of twisted wire to go into your wire nut. This insures no bare wire outside of the nut.

Yeah, I use the wire nuts and the Wago. When I use the wire nuts I prefer to pre-twist. I always looked at the wire nut as more of a way to insulate than to make the connection. Although I have tested it out and it works without pre-twisting. The Wago lever nuts are great when you have a lot of wires to connect in a single box. I remodeled our master bathroom and used Wagos because everything went through the GFCI outlet. I did have to daisy chain everything from it to connect it properly so that everything in the bathroom would be protected by it. I ran a pigtail from it to the Wagos though and then connected everything else to it. I don't think I connected the incoming power to the middle. I think I just connected it to one end and then added everything else in line. I had to use the 5 conductor lever nuts for it. I personally don't think it matters which order it goes in but it does make sense to put the incoming power in the middle that way if there is a failure it's possible that the other end of the circuit still works. I think in the future I will do this. The other reason I like Wago lever nuts is when I hook up a light or something with stranded cables. It's so hard to make a good connection by twisting stranded wire with solid wire. I have seen too many failures this way. I'm glad you made this video though. I have so many plugs in my house that have gone out and caused other issues down the line. We have 2 bedrooms in our house that run off a single breaker. the plugs are all basically daisy-chained together. I wish I had the money and patients to rerun another line to put one of the rooms on a different breaker. Until that day comes though I think I'm going to start replacing the plugs that I know are bad and use pigtails like you suggested so the same issue doesn't happen again. It seems like daisy chaining just puts too much power through the first outlet in the chain. Especially when we have the air conditioners running in the summer. I really should get them on their own circuit though.

How do you prefer to connect your different outlet devices? Also if you have any knowledge to add, please feel free to leave it in the comments so everyone in the community can benefit! Thank You! 👍

I always pre-twist the equipment ground wires simply because it pulls them all close together and being they are un-insulated it helps keep them from getting into hot areas in the box.

I would think the Wago-style connectors would offer a big advantage when using smart switches or other assemblies that have built-in pigtails, since they would allow a smart switch to be removed from a passed-through hot and neutral without breaking the pass-through connection. By contrast, when using a wire nut, it would be necessary to break the connection and then re-connect the two wires.

You present your methods in a very clear and logical manner. Thank you.

One of the advantages of pre twisting is that the wire nut is not the only thing holding the connection together. When it enviablly comes time to disassemble that joint removing the wirenut doesn't allow the joint to come apart and allow the conductors to hit anything else in the box. (something electricians who do live work care a lot about).

What is the difference between daisy chaining ONLY from one receptacle to a second receptacle VS using a Wago? You are sending power through a connecting bar of metal in both instances creating extra resistance, no matter how minute in each situation. If the master receptacle dies, that piece of metal is still there to send to the slave receptacle.

I'm having trouble with your explanation of why daisy chaining the outlets is bad. The method described and attributed to "most people" was to wire them in parallel, so the only failure mode that might disable other loads would be if that little metal tab that interconnects the two screws on the hot side was to somehow become disconnected. I have never heard of this happening and as a EE it is hard for me to imagine a scenario where this interconnecting piece of metal would become a fuse and "open", thus causing a problem with the other loads. There may be other reasons to avoid this technique, just not the one described in your video and above. I disagree with this point, but I value your vids. Thanks for sticking your neck out!

Great video. I agree that wires should ALWAYS be twisted before installing a wire nut. It’s not just DIYers, I wish some “pros” would do half as neat of a job as you’ve done here. A lot of wiring I’ve ran across as a homeowner has been atrocious! When I do my own install, I remove about 1” of insulation about 6” from the end of the wire, wrap that once around the 1st receptacle terminal screw (make a u-turn) and then connect the end to the 2nd receptacle. I do this for all 3 wires including feed through, unless they’re on a separate circuit. Also, the aircraft electrician in me can’t stand the even the thought of using any kind of push in or lever lock device. I know, different environment, but that prejudice is still there.

The feed wire being in the middle or end makes no difference. The resistance difference is so small it's practically immeasurable. I do find it helpful to take a small piece of sheathing, write the legend on it, then slip it over the hot wires if you have a more complex switch / outlet arrangement.

In Ontario Canada, you're allowed to daisy chain the live wires, but have to use the pigtail method for the neutral.

For diyers using wire nuts pre twist is the most reliable way to connect. Never used waygo until recently and they are quite handy. And as others have commented connecting solid wire to stranded wire seems to be superior to wire nuts. I don’t subscribe to the equal load theory of placing the hot wire in the center(it shouldnt have much deviation) however always placing the hot in the center makes it a known location for incoming supply for future work inside a box. Like many other electricians I’ve seen some really odd stuff both from diy and older electricians. But at the end of the day, if you are doing it yourself, you want to remember that mistakes when wiring is dangerous and can cost you your home or you or your loved ones lives. Taking a few extra minutes and spending a few extra dollars is the difference between a safe connection and a future catastrophe.

Really love and appreciate your videos. Im learning, they are simple and clear.

Great video - thank you for including WAGO connector info - I never thought about it, but putting the live feed in the middle for the 3 and 5 port connectors make sense. I swiched to mostly WAGO connectors because I've had some issues with good connections inside the wire nut but I was not pre-twisting my wires so I will also try that.

Thank you for all your videos, your channel is fantastic! You explain everything perfectly. Keep up the great work!

I don't think the actual issue of power distribution is effective by putting in the center or not as a rule, but like your issue of doing Daisy chain and pig tail, putting the line in the center allows minimal failure across the small buss that is attached instead of on side having to carry full load, if all plugs are being used it will be better or more equal divided to the respective outlets and not all going through one potential failure point to go through. Placement in the center reduces the failure potential and load on any one side of the device.

If you daisy chain and the first outlet breaks, the second outlet is not effected because its tab is just a piece of metal outside the outlet components. In the event of a short, the breaker would cut power to all of them whether daisy chained or not. Wago in-out spots won't matter but being consistent for ease of maintenance is good enough reason.

Very helpful video. I've gone through all of the switches and outlets in our house. God knows what some professional/licensed electricians were thinking when they were installed. (Maybe it was up to code 40 years ago.) It took days, but we're feeling a lot safer. For some questionable stuff, I called in the local electrical inspector. I can't say for everywhere, but they come out for "free" (included in your taxes) here. Keep up the good work!!

One of if not the best video, really clear explanation of the procedure, great job & thanks !!

I think pigtails should be code in the future. It removes the outlet devices from always being in the load.path- they'll last.longer and the circuit will be more reliable. BTW I never use wirenuts or Wagos on the grounds...it's unnecessary and wastes space in the box. A tight twist with a Buchanan crimp sleeve over the twist is a solid mechanical connection. RE the "even load" idea.with your Wagos... If the conductors were 100' apart might matter, but at 3-4mm apart I doubt there is testing equipment.sensitive enough to measure any load imbalance or voltage drop. It’s always good to establish a consistent wiring method though and “line in the middle” makes perfect sense for that reason.

I think wago clips are easier to use on occasional jobs. They are more expensive than wire nuts, but it you only need a few each time you wire an outlet or light switch the difference in cost is negligible.

Great job! Like you said, Daisy chaining is legal but pigtails are better in every way. I have seen numerous circuits go down due to a failure at one of the receptacles and it can be a pain to find the issue. Also pigtails make everything so much cleaner and easier.

Enjoyed this video, thanks. There is another option for wiring two duplex outlets in a 2-gang box and this is my preferred method. First, full disclosure - I am NOT an electrician. But I do own several Ace Hardware stores and have been in the hardware business my entire life and I do all my own electrical work. Anyway, I wire two duplex outlets by stripping about 8" of the sheathing off a piece of 12/2 Romex and then strip the insulation off the black and white wires in two places, about 4" apart, one at the end, of course, and the other about 4" down from the end. The stripped wire furthest from the end gets looped around the appropriate terminal screw of one duplex outlet, then the stripped end of the wire gets looped around the appropriate terminal screw of the other outlet. Repeat this process with the other wire, as well as the ground wire. I don't like doing pigtails unless absolutely necessary because it becomes significantly more challenging to "stuff" all the wires with twists and wire nuts into the box. Also, I agree with you on twisting wires before adding the wire nut. More than once I've encountered intermittent or bad connections due to untwisted wires coming loose inside a wire nut. Thanks Again!

If you had a double outlet in a location that requires GFCI you could put the GFCI in position 1 and daisy chain a separate receptacle which would have GFCI protection.

I was taught to always put a crimp on the ground wire pigtails instead of wire nuts to meet code in NY.

The best reason is because the NEC requires pigtailing receptacles. You cannot depend on a device for continuity of the neutral. NEC 300.13(B)

My guess is that putting the feed wire in the middle of the Wago might make a 0.0001 ohm difference, but the advantage is that, upon inspection, it shows that the installer cares about details and that gives everyone a comfortable feeling! I'd go with it!

Excellent like always brother, very informative . Congrats!

Pigtail can mean other things. In plumbing we refer to cords as pigtails. Not all plugs but when you add one on. Usually this is done on disposals, dishwashers, and occasionally on tankless water heaters. They’re all relatively low amp 120. I have occasionally seen them on 240 volt tank type water heaters. They’ll use a 3 prong dryer cord. I don’t do like doing this but when I think about it I can’t see what’s wrong with it. As far as I’m aware dryers pull more amps generally so the cord should be rated for it and it gives you a quick disconnect so you don’t have to use the panel. Maybe an electrician can tell me if this is good or bad.

Edit: You are only required to pigtail the neutral and ground wire in multi-conductor circuits (meaning a hot wire from each phase of the 240VAC with a common neutral). But when I wrote my exam for my Journeyman's license they required pigtails in the test.

Many likes and subs! I really enjoy your videos, clear, concise and to the pt! I really like that your videos are around 10 minutes and it always seems to go so fast! I am learning a lot for you Adam so many thanks!

I think you have a rather rudimentary understanding of the issue and miss a major reason. A major reason for pig tailing is that when you are doing construction you can complete your rough wiring including box pass throughs for all branch circuits.. You can completely buzz out each branch circuit and know you are good from end to end. Otherwise you won't be able to do that step until you do your finish electrical which doesn't occur until after drywall. And it sucks if you have a problem such as a pinched wire or a nail until after drywall because it is difficult to fix. afYes it is better to pigtail and not daisy chain multiple devices to minimize serial failure points. Usually those failures happen later when the homeowner changes switches or plugs though.. That said most DIY's struggle with a busy box with multiple pigtails.

+1 .. This guy is the bomb! Subscribed .... Yes, always pigtail & pre-twist wire-nut electrical connections.....

Thank you for your videos. You've been so very helpful in helping me understand how to properly wire my home! ♥️

There is no advantage in putting the feed wire in the center port of the wago. The construction of the wago insures that there is the same potential in all the ports once it’s energized. There doesn’t need to be a “balance point” or equidistant path for the power, electrons just don’t care. It won’t change the current, or speed of the devices connected to it in any way.

Do you prefer hooking the wires around the posts of the outlet/switch or do you prefer screwing them down under the tab/bracket?

I like your videos which I'm sure a viewed in different Countries so I think you should emphasis that the jobs you do are for your Country and anyone watching your videos should be advised that any electrical work MUST comply with the regulations for that Country. Here in the UK its Part P. But good to watch - always like to learn something new!

Wago instructions make no indication that line/supply conductor should be in the middle and load on the outer sides, at least so far as I could determine. While if each load wire was equally loaded you would have less current on each sub-portion of the metallic strip, the ampere limit of the device and circuit remains the same. I speculate that most of the heat comes from the wiring itself and the ambient surroundings. Not a lot of resistance in a Wago: milliOhms I expect, so the additional I^2 R loss wouldn’t be huge in absolute terms, and the differences in Vdrop would be practically insignificant even at full load. Think of a main lug panel being fed from the top rather than the middle of the bus bar, to make an analogy.

I've always had a love hate relationship with wire nuts. I've seen some that had several wires bundled together that had one wire that was kinda loose. I'm not an electrician just a DIYer.

I always attach the pigtails to the device and have the Wego connecting the wires in the box. That way I can prep all devices on a bench top quick and securely in a comfortable position, then plug them into The Wego’s and minimize my time bent over at outlet height. ✌🏻🇺🇸

I prefer to use lazy loops when wiring a terminal double duplex outlet. If there is a a box downstream, I try to pull a loop and I mark the casing on the downstream side. I pull about 12" out of the box. The ground wire gets a small loop to be grounded or secured to the box. I strip about 3/4" of insulation off the conductors about 4" out of the box and then strip and loop at the ends. I loop them over the terminals on the first outlet and then put the end loops on the second outlet. The ground wire is run over the ground screws on each outlet then the loop in the ground wire is secured to the inside of the box with a green screw. Ideally, this provides unbroken wires from the panel to the end of the circuit. Also, I use bare copper ground crimp sleeves to connect ground wires, rather than wire nuts.

Great demo, have been looking to add a switch for another set of lights.

How exactly is the outlet failing unless you break the tabs? If you are just going from one outlet to another, it’s easier to just get a commercial grade outlet and back wire (not back stab) them. If you have more wires in the box, then I would use a pigtail with wago because it’s easier to push the receptacle back. I feel like this subject has been beaten to death and opinions on what to do in commercial settings vs home, plus habits of old and young electricians are muddying the water.

If I recall correctionally that Yes it is legal to connect the hot wire by daisy chaining thru the devices but not so on the identified conductors, the code says it must be continuous conductor independent of any devices. all my career I always pigtailed both sides.

I don't think I have ever worked on a house that wasn't daisy chained. it's easy enough to find where the chain is broken if there is an issue. The only concern I have is when the hardware is wired through the stab locks. Don't do it,

Anyone who doesn't know what a pigtail is or how to use one should NOT DIY electrical work in their house...without seeing this video first! Great job Adam! 👍

Utterly nothing wrong with daisy chaining outlets, via the screw or clamp connections. It is a screw-to-screw buss. There is nothing to fail. Wagos, on the other hand, is asking for trouble. (much like that of stab in connections on back of some receptacles)

Every home I've done DIY work in, I'm found at least one two-gang box where the person before me cut the insulation 3" from the end, half-looped the exposed conductor under the terminal screw of one device, then cut the insulation off the end and connected that end to the next device's terminal. That's always felt icky to me. Then again, I'm not a pro. Then again one more time, being a pro does not guarantee following good practice. I'm curious to know people's thoughts. Cool video :)

You must daisy chain if you are using one GFI to supply GFI protected power to a second or third receptacle.

As someone who has just done this for the first time and wired a half dozen outlets, I was surprised that home wiring methods are still this archaic. I've spent countless hours with automotive wiring and there's a proper termination or connector for every possible scenario. Using twist connectors and cramming the excess wire to the back of the box just feels primitive. I feel like the Romex should terminate to the gang box and your outlet or switch should plug into a receptacle in the gang box and then be secured with screws. That way you're not trying to cram solid core wire.

8:35 for such a small device, it wouldn't really matter, but having it in the middle would definitely satisfy my OCD

In another RU-vid video where wago connectors were tested, they got hot with full load current running between the outside slots. It seems that having the line feed through the middle will reduce the resistance of each circuit and thereby reduce heat buildup.

Brother this is so awesome you are sharing your trade I know a lot about plumbing but very little about electrical but having trouble and I think I can do some investigating and probably fix my issues fairly simple.

As an ex electrician I throw my 2 cents. I was not a big fan of them initially. However when working construction sites with contract guys that often didn't even own a drill and being on crunch (as usual) I would have a guy with prefabbed grounding wire go through each outlet (often to get through first stage of inspection), others pigtail outlets, then a few guys drop off at the location the outlets for a more experienced electrician to connect to feed/load wires. I admit in those times Wagos were new and used a lot, I tend to use them a lot now in residential situations. I mean I can have my minor daughter's hit up the outlets and Wago them without much skill. Not to say my daughters cannot act as great appetence electricians with their skill levels, they can probably rewire a house legally more than some I have worked for.

I like your work station behind you in the video.

excellent no fluff explanation

I'll pigtail the outlets however only one. I'll daisy chain while in the same box, my line of thought is more that the device may fail but the unless the tabs over hear and melt they are still connected. If they get that hot neither outlet and possibly the whole circuit should be off until fixed. You're likely to remove both outlets when in the same box to work on one anyway. So if one device fails it will still run the other chained to it unless there is a more serious issue.

I'm a die hard pretwist guy. My house had some that were not and somehow wire nuts have come off and I would loose power in the chain. It took me 2 years to find the last one. I had rewired it long before I found it.

LOL. I was wiring an addition I built in Sacramento about 20 years ago and had to have an electrical inspection on my wiring job. The inspector came in, found everything had been pigtailed and proceeded to write me a correction notice. I told him it was the best method and he went to check with his supervisor. When he came back the next day, his tune had changed. When I've wired a house, it's always been pigtailed and I NEVER install less than a 20a circuit...

Very helpful for a A Tinknocker like me. And I myself would sleep better at night knowing I put the supply feed in the center of that Doo dad 👍🏼🇺🇸

Smart advice. . I m wiring my old house . 120 years old and scary bare wires.

great demo! we'll make sure to keep this in mind.

I have been messing with small and home electronic since I was in high school. I think I see why it is recommended to wire the wago like that. Say you have ports 1 ,2 ,and 3. If you used port 1 as the input. When you draw a load from ports 2 and 3. All of that load is going through the metal that connects ports 1 and 2. If you use port 2 as the input. Then draw a load from 1 and 3. Now the current going through any single piece of the wago is cut in half. Making it more resistant to over loading.

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much.

I wonder what kind of outlet failure would break power to downstream outlets when daisy chaining power between outlets. Daisy chained power isn't even going through the outlet socket so a socket failure wouldn't affect daisy chained outlets. It seems like it would be catastrophic or something unrelated like the screw going loose. I do like the pigtail technique though. It might be easier to work on.

One of the reasons they can get away with a relatively thin plate of metal in the Wagos is the very short length of it. I was intrigued to see how thin a wire was inside a dimmer switch that connected the switch to the incoming power lead. The reason for that thin wire was for it to act like a fuse (and it did). The fact that it didn't fry under normal conditions is because it is so short. The reason you have to increase your wire size when it gets beyond a certain length is because of the resistance of the longer wire. The shorter the wire, the less the resistance and the lower the heat. The higher the resistance, the greater the heat. That also explains why you don't want to use romex style wiring in conduit. Heat is your enemy. The plate in the Wago style connectors has been carefully calculated to handle the required current and I don't believe it matters where you connect the power lead. Again, that plate is very short. The designers have to know how these would be used and that many users weren't going to worry about where each wire goes.

You are a great teacher! Thank you for all of the content. I wonder- could you explain how to install a 4-position switch for a ceiling fan?

Good advice! Thank you.

Damn I wish I had seen this a week or so ago when I built my power cord. It would have been SO much easier. I'm not gonna take it apart now because it's all liquid taped up, but next time! Thanks for making this clearer for us non-professionals.

They daisy chain, even though they say otherwise. I’ve never seen it the other way. Even if one goes out the power is still connected. It doesn’t require the plug to work it’s wired on the outside.

Firstly, Wago (pronounced v•ah•go [it's German]) are a name brand of *lever nut.* Generics are available for less cost. However, in my experience, this is a case of you-get-what-you-pay-for. Thus, I gladly pay for the name brand in this case. One exception is low voltage wiring. Here, due to the large number of connectors, coupled with the use of DIN rail and enclosures, Dinkle makes some very fine substitutes. Secondly, Wago 221 lever nuts are rated for 32A/450V, so there should be no hesitancy using these in typical residential (or commercial for that matter) applications. Thirdly, for the DIYer, lever nuts are the way to go. They're as idiot-proof as it gets. I've seen far too many issues with DIY-installations using wire nuts (and lots of professional installations, as well). Pre-twisting is also a must, in my opinion. Lever nuts also take up far less space and are much less prone to slippage, making the process of tucking everything away nicely and closing up the box much, much easier. Lastly, another option wasn't presented here: push-in connectors. Like lever nuts, but less expensive, push-in connectors provide for the same fast, easy and secure connections as lever nuts--particularly for solid wire. In the case of thin stranded wire, I first install ferrules. However, that increases costs and time in multiple ways, so I usually reserve push-in connectors for solid wire applications.

Your knowledge is appreciated Sir. Thank you.

I would assume that this method of individually pigtailing receptacles does not apply when wiring a GFI receptacle that is going to supply one or more non-GFI receptacles from the Load screws, if you want the downstream non-GFI receptacles to be protected by the GFI. Providing individual pigtails and individual power to the downstream non-GFI receptacles would eliminate the GFI protection.

The construction of the conductor in a Wago connector is not a series scheme; it's parallel--so all connections, no matter whether it's a supply or a load--see the same resistance through the connector.

I have a question that I am sure you know the answer to and one that I can't find an answer online. How many outgoing power feeds can I pull from an outlet using a pigtail? I am using 12/2 wire from a 20 amp outlet receptacles with a 20 amp breaker. Thanks for the help.

I was confused at first, since I've worked in another industry where a pigtail refers to the bend at the end of the wire, cause it curls around kinda like a pig tail; so I assumed that this video was going to be talking about using a pigtail, as in the hook for the screw terminal. 😅 Good information, though!

How about wiring double outlets in multiple boxes using three way switches? Love your videos!

Jim from Ohio Exactly how I do it !!! ✨👍Thanks👍✨

I am also a retired master electrician (over 45 years) and I used a method that is better than pigtailing or using the terminals. I would leave enough wire in the the box on roughing so I could skin the wire in multiple places depending how many receptacles (or other devices) were being installed. I would loop the wire around the terminal screw of each device. By using this method the device is not being used as the feed through, the wire performs that function, the device is tapped off the wire. This process also eliminates the number of conductors under the wire nut if it is even needed. Of course everything changes if you are working with stranded wire. I also would NEVER use the push in terminals. I have seem too many burned up receptacles and switches, not because of excessive current but because the connection in the terminal is poor. For this reason I am also not a fan of Wago connectors. Yes they are convenient to disconnect and reuse but I don’t trust the connections. Wire nuts have a looooong history of success if installed correctly. Of course if Wago wants to compensate me I could change my tune like the rest of the creators on this channel.

8:45 I am not an electrician but putting the feed wire in the center makes sense to me. Electricity will take the path of less resistance. The wago conductor has some resistance. .000000001? In the grand scheme of things, I don't think it makes a difference. But, in the matrix, that .000000001 is vital.

Algorithm boost, also I've always had difficulty bending solid wire to wrap around the terminal screws. Maybe you could do a video on that if you haven't already.

I believe the real issue is how clamp style backwiring should actually be at least as good, perhaps a better connection, than pigtailing. The trick is to just use two wires, under one clamp, so the current never passes through the insides of the receptacle at all; the flat wide plate contacts the wires under pressure, a far larger surface area than inside any WAGO type nut, and obviously the makers of the better backwire models designed in two grooves to each plate with this in mind. Why there is a "cone of silence" around this option is a mystery to me, especially when pigtailing adds inches more wire, and multiple nuts, within each box where space is at a premium. While many local codes disallow double wiring of breakers, the manufacturers of Square D actually provide that option, with torque specs on the breaker indicating how pressure clamping is perfectly valid for two wires of the same size, one on either side of the screw under the plate. I see zero difference in the same application on a receptacle, and further, I see this as a preferable method of pass-through on GFCI/AFCI receptacles as well in typical series wiring of kitchens, if a second branch or downstream outlet is involved.

Very helpful!!

Great content and very informative. Awesome video quality

I can see that putting the hot lead in the middle of the Wago connector will distribute load to the left and right of the hot lead. If the hot was on one side and the load on the to outlets were high then the the power is being fed through the bus bar to the middle and the outside one. Load is resistance and resistance is heat and it might run a little hotter on the bus bar inside the Wago. Are you totally confused now?

Hi, I need help "how to eliminate / remove the no-longer in-use 3 ways switch" after I installed a Single-Pole Motion Sensor Switch. Do you have a video how to on this topic? Please help. Best regards.

so if you pigtail is this considered another connection in the box ? NEC says only so many connections per box size....

So if you have a further load down the line your have a 4th in each of those connections?

A lot what if’s and yeah buts in this. I don’t know why someone would taper gauge between outlets. If you are placing 12 ga then you are building a 20 amp circuit. Reserve the 14 for the overhead lights. Just build to UBC and it should be good for quite some time.

How would the first outlet working even matter? The wire is connected with the bare metal on the outside of the plug assembly. It is literally the same as twisting the two wires together accept with terminal screws. Unless you are talking about a terminal screw failure, but that can happen with any connection.

Love your content!

I’ve been a licensed master electrician since 1987 I’ve never backstabbed and the only time I pigtail is when I’m installing a quad receptacles or there’s 3 wires in the box

Great content as always Adam. Do you know of any overcurrent concerns with daisy-chaining receptacles? Also, what are your thoughts on ground plug up vs down?

If you were running them from your in feed to the two recipticals and then to an outfeed would it be up to code to do kind of like a four pig tail instead of a three or would that require more work to be code?

Is it common practice to wrap the levers on Wagos with electrical tape like you usually do with wire nuts?

I pre-twist because I only have 2 hands. I want the wires mechanically locked before the wire nut is added so that one hand holds the bundle and the other the wire nut that isn't fighting loose wires.

Is it ok to daisy chain by putting 2 12 wires behind one screw. I'm talking about the wires coming in from the back and going under just one of the screws under the square washer. This would be on a commercial Leviton outlet. Why use both screws when one will do?