Just a bit of warning - remove rings and watches when working on big batteries. I noticed your wife had hers on. I managed to short my wedding band on a 1120Ah pack while using a wrench and now they call me stubby.
I literally paused the video at 19:06 to comment this. Anytime you are working near large batteries / capacitors / ac or dc supplies, please remove any hand metal jewelry. Caught a watch on a small power supply back in the day and it got really hot really fast. It was only 30a 12vdc. A battery will remove digits or appendages quickly. Love the precision and thought that you put into all of your work! Great job! Just a quick question about the bank too. Do you worry about individual cell balancing? Or do you just trust that because they are all paralleled together they will balance to their supercell mates?
I'm 68 now but years ago an old timer teased me saying there isn't such a thing as a "hot water heater" (he built houses when he got off work as a line foreman). A good friend. He said it is a "water heater" ... he said. thanks and keep up the nice weather living.
Now I need to organise my wire boxes, maybe some foam inserts or something to keep them as organised as your wire drawer. 😁👍🏻 Very good vijeo, makes me want to install one of these kind of doohikeys now. 🤔 Thanks!
Thanks for another great presentation .I have in use one of the first SBMS120 units in my motor home in New Zealand it has never missed a watt. I do agree that if you don't have a basic electrical understanding building your own Lithium cell battery system is not advisable .Have helped people with magic smoke problems but not easy. Keep up the good work.
I disagree, people should try... Learn something, just start small, get an 8 cell 18650 pack and a 50 watt solar panel and give it a go. Then you'll get the confidence to go bigger and do something great 👍
Great install video. Best explanation on how to install an Sbms0. What a special wire draw? Everybody should have one. As always a joy to see your videos. Cheers
The power connection on the shunt needs a mechanical bolt. Solder should not be used alone on power connections as heat may melt it partially or vibration may crack it, thus increasing the resistance thus melting that connection. Additionally, the joint cannot be inspected visually for solder flow resulting in a faith based connection. Just throw a bolt in with a locknut and it will be good or tap the bussbar with a 1/4"-32 or high thread per freedom units for a low profile solution.
I have faith, a temperature sensor between the shunts (Chrome clynder near the bottom, 19:19), and I'll post a link to the video here, if I ever need to repair it.
Again, another awesome video. Appreciate the time. I love to see nice clean wiring. I do shelters for AT&T and Verizon, I am a stickler about cleanliness. So are thuse 2 companies lol. Atleast you do have to tie all the wires in a track . Hate tying wires. But beautiful work sir.
I stopped wire tying them after cutting all the ties for the 6 or 8th time. It looks super pro, but this is an ever changing system and I don't have that many ties along. (And it's surprisingly hard to find down here. I've started picking the retainer and reusing them)
@@Everlanders it gets a bit redundant. Each wire has to be tied and there are 40 powers, and same grounds. Also the brackets are 8 inches apart and have to be tied on everyone lol. But ,hey thanks for the great video, as usual. Hope yall are having a great time.
Perfect timing, our 8 cells, sbms0, 2 dssrs and dext 16 are all here ready to go and I feel a lot more confident tackling the build with this to refer to. 👍
Recently found your channel and became one of the 3%'ers! Really like what I have seen so far. Thank you fir taking the time to share with the community!
You can use your multimeter as a recharge resistor to bring charge the caps. Just use voltage mode black on batt, red on inverter pos and wait until the voltage goes down to zero. No pop!
Yes that was nickel plated bus bar. Most ideal for your situation and offshore, in fact, I would always only use it for battery applications when available. I only remove it when scrapping the stuff.
Huge fan of the sbms0 and the instant support Dacian provides, great install video! Now I kinda regret not going with his solar controllers and going with some conventional mppt`s instead, they are huge and bulky and dont do much better..
@@Everlanders I have "argued" until I was blue in the face with folks that these are better than the average MPPT! Plus for my set up 2720w I would have had to spend over $1000 for an MPPT!
i had a bad day with a rolling busbar when making my 8s 46160 .. and those had both sides poles not one .. i cant think of my sweat when 16s one...!!! i know amps melts metal but 60- volts are not a game to have fun
As always, very nice and tidy job, with excellent use of the limited space available. And thank you for including the still photos of several aspects of the prep work. It makes an old hacker like myself, very happy to get a glimpse of the "workshops" that are available and used, while on-the-road 😀 Looking forward to this mini-series.
I use a 600w DC element in the 2.5 gal Rheem heater as well, and it's great. I run a 80 degree C thermostat, and plumb the heater into a thermostatic mixing valve, which makes showers pretty convenient/pleasant.
Yes, I usually have ours running at 80° also, the hotter we can get the water the more energy we've stored. Currently our mixing valve is called "the faucet".
Love this tech stuff (even though it's way beyond me!) I'm still struggling with my in dash Pi touch screen that I started a while ago. 🙄🙄 but please keep these videos coming, I'm sure I lean "something" with everyone! 👍
@@Everlanders Tis the story of my life mate! I tend to try stuff I've never done & wonder why I struggle! Geez, it rewarding when things finally go as planned though! Learning everyday.
We have plenty of remote diagnostics, automation and alerts to such things if we are nearby, the need for a low voltage disconnect is in case we leave the truck, during an ocean crossing for example, and we can't physically get to it.
This is real informative, thank you for taking the time to put this video series together. I currently have the CALBs as well. My config is 8S for a 180ah 24v system. I have the SBMS0 and I'm bench building out my solar system now. I'm curious which components you are connecting/disconnecting through the SBMS0. I soldered low voltage cat6 wires to the switch on my inverter/charger for both low and high voltage disconnects. My plan is to also configure the SBMS0 to disconnect a battery protect to the loads and a 12/24v DC to DC charger as well as an mppt charge controller. You've helped me to commit to purchasing a 3d printer after realizing from your videos that there's really no end to the possibilities of what they can do, so thanks for that and when I can find one reasonably priced, I'll be taking the plunge and grabbing myself a raspberry pi while I'm in the spirit of learning and opening up to evermore endless possibilities. Thanks for everything.
Great video. Couldn't find the one coding the raspberry pi which is what I was most looking forward to. Also these sbms0 are hard to find must be out of stock 😢
The SBMS0 is unavailable due to semiconductor shortages. Should be available in June. I haven't done the logging video because this series didn't really catch on, I think your the 2nd or 3rd person to even ask in over a year.
I am a bit confused on the Aluminum Bar. Its electric conductivity is much lower then copper. So it could cause disbalaced currents during charging and discharging. Not sure but from my point of view the inner cells will have to manage a higher current then the outer because electrons always take the shortest way. Would be interesting to mesure that. Oh - and i used flexible flat 25mm2 ground wires instead of the bars so mechanical stress in case of e.g. vibrations will not be transfered to the Cell connectors.
@@Everlanders i was thinking about it some longer and - if one cell of a parallel pack would be used a bit stronger it would just lead into a higher internal resistance and that would balance that difference.
These technical videos is pure engineering porn.. 🤤 Love it! Haven’t plunged into the 3D printing pool yet, but starting to see more and more usages for it. What plastic are you printing with and what isolation and heat/fire resistance properties does it have? Keep the videos coming! 👍👍
I am convinced somebody inserted coins into a slot on the back of his head... and random words come flowing out. . Either that, or 'somebody' is a tech-geek. Jurors are continuing their deliberating...
Great video as always. The DSSR20 has no PWM regulation circuit inside, it's a solid state relay (with an ideal diode to prevent back flow) switched by the SBMS0 through the EXT IO4 port. Perhaps you could use a DSSR20 in place of the Victron battery protect (that you are unable to obtain) to disconnect your DC loads? Its rated max pv input is 51V, so perhaps it could solid state switch up to that amount?
It may work for smaller loads, but we'd need to parallel several of them because by they only handle 20 amps each, furthermore, I can't get more of them at this point for the same reasons I can't get a BatteryProtect. Lastly, Dacian is sold out at the moment anyway.
Nice install wel done looks awesome as it should be, the shunts settings on the SBMS0?, had you already done that or…, as usual great video thanks and looking forward to the next one, stay safe and healthy
Yes, I set the shunts value, but I set them wrong when I filmed it, and the video was getting too long, so I just cut it from the video. But they are calculated and set like this: 0.075÷400 = 0.0001875 or 0.1857mOhm 0.075÷200= 0.000375 or 0.375mOhm
@@Everlanders Haha… that can happen, I'm still waiting for my cells, sea freight has big delays now and this shipment has an even bigger delay than I expected, it is already difficult and expensive to get/buy those cells in the Netherlands, everything is prepared, SBMS0 ready.. so have to be patient.. 😊
So why use the dslr’s over just having a relay turn on automatically to the water heater when the batteries reach 100%? And the solar controller just keeps chugging away. Could set it to turn off when batteries reach 98% for example.
This is awesome! The DSSR20/50 sbms0 ecosystem is amazing I will perhaps buy it however reading through all the documentation something eludes me. I have a small RV like system running 24v on my balcony. I use a Prebuilt 24v 200ah battery,(8s) could I use that sbms and those Dssrs in this case without replacing the internal bms of the prebuilt battery?
Jason! Thanks for answering that(You did not have to), that was pretty much how I understood it. After watching your channel I am convinced that parrallel is the way to go for a smaller system with shading issues. I have 8x110v (shingeled 20 voc 18.5v/6.2a)panels I put them in parallel now. I had some of the buck boost converters lying around you used in some of your projects (1800w ones), they don't quite cut the mustard so I am waiting for some MPPT boost converters to test. I have a big hybrid inverter I bought at first which can run everything just fin but I am not impressed. Anyways am so impressed by your system that I'm thinking about going that route.
Considering the number of times you remove and replace the main terminal screws in your cells, would it be a good idea to install studs into the batteries and use nuts to secure the terminals? That would avoid the possibility of wear or cross-thread damage to the internal threads in the cells.
Sure, if you have a habit of cross threading fasteners, go for it... I don't feel it's necessary and won't be talking it all apart just to change out fasteners.
Jason, You've got me re-thinking so many parts of my rig; I've been thinking of swapping to LiFePO, but my current AGM are doing well, started looking at what a potential hybrid system might look like to increase storage while I wait for my AGMs to die, wondering if you have any thoughts/ recommendations?
I would steer clear of trying to hybrid lithium and lead in the same system. Perhaps running two systems in parallel and dividing the loads between them would be one approach. But I have a feeling once you get your hands on some lithium, and see that they charge much more efficiently and all the other benefits, you'll soon be dropping the lead anyway...
I'm not sure which ones your speaking of, but the DIN rail breakers are 63 and 100 Amp breakers. Not really comparibable to mini fuses as they serve completely different applications.
Great video sir. The thing I enjoy about your videos. You have a way of making the complicated stuff. Very approachable and enjoyable. Now I wanna know where you got your wire drawer faery from? Because I don't think that your paying them enough. Roflmao! Any wire I put in a drawer. Immediately becomes a nasty venomous snake. That is ready to poke me when I go back into the drawer. :)
I see your solar positive is connected directly to the positive of the battery and not going through the shunt??? (Maybe this is not the case and I didn't see clearly) Does this mean that the solar switching devices (forgot their model designation) are measuring the solar incoming current? If that is the case is one shunt for small DC loads 200amp and the larger shunt for large DC loads? One last question, with my sbms in colder weather the low temp cut off not only cut off my charging loads, as it should, it also cut off the output connected to my DC draw via the victron DC fancy relay. Have you found a way around this? It could have been user error...nope, probably was.
No, the solar positive is connected to the DSSR charge controller with solar diversion... The output of the DSSR20s are then connected to the 200 amp shunt, which measures the incoming charge. next, the 400 amp shunt measures all the load In or Out of the battery. If the SBMS0 detects temperatures below freezing (or 5°c) It will shut down the charge. The load will stay connected.
I cannot remember if you've discussed this before... What are your thoughts about doing a higher voltage (e.g. 24v or 48v) for your inverter, with a DC:DC converter as needed to supply 12v loads? If you have previous video in mind, please give me a reference - searching your channel I came up empty.
I have spent many sleepless nights considering it and concluded it isn't worthwhile for our application. 1. We're effectively a Car or RV, and a majority of our loads are 12 volts. Many of them quite large, ie. the Air Compressors that pull 60 Amps. (Can't imagine what they pull at peak startup!) So we would need a pretty beefy DC-DC converter, and they aren't actually that efficient. Also, because they are using high frequency switching, you can sometimes see it in lighting. 2. With our existing oversized wiring to Fridge and Freezer (the only things that would handle 24v), there is 1-2% gains in efficiency. In my testing the overall wattage consumption was nearly the same. 3. We have 20 cells, and no room for more, this can't be configured to a 24 volt pack, we'd need 16 or 24 to make 24 volt bank. I _could_ make an 8s2p pack @ 24 volts and a 4s1p @ 12 volts ( or a 8s1p and 4s3p) But then I would need two seperate BMS systems in place. That's why I chose to stick with our 12 volt system - just not enough 24 volt loads, and not enough efficiency gains to justify converting everything. If I was starting from scratch I would maybe consider 24 volts, as some stuff is available as 24v now (Still lots isn't). But at this point dropping a ton of money on new inverters, chargers and DC-DC converters just to be right back where we started, doesn't make sense for us.
Love my SBMS0 and 4 x DSSR20s. We are also in SK and waiting to go fulltime once our acreage is sold. We have 16 x 280 AH EVE cells in a 2P8S configuration with 8 x 340w panels on the roof of our 5th Wheel. I would have never thought to split the cables coming off of the panels through...nice work-a-round when it is already all wired. I'm planning on doing something similar with the data this summer. I was looking at Blynk but it appears that the "free" version is no longer available...is that true. Just debating using Blynk or Home Assistant with a RPi.
@@Everlanders Yes, I was going to run it locally only. Blynk is new to me so I guess I have homework to do. Will you be covering setting it up in your future videos?
Jason, would the Diversion be a good choice for pre-heating cells in sub-0 environment? We have some cold sunny days and I lose a few kWh/yr in my shed.
Yes, absolutely, but rather than having the SBMS0 switch to heat when the batteries are charged, you'd want to connect a thermostat and switch it yourself if the temps are approaching freezing. (I'd switch to solar heat at 5 or 7c)
After completeing my DSSR Diversion installation, you would need nothing more than a thermostat that closes the connection at 5deg C... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TGMZ7bM-Kow.html
Are you an electrical engineer, or is this the kind of constructive use one can make of their time when not required to sit at work for 10 hours every day?
@@Everlanders Sure, why not? I don’t understand any of the technical aspects, so I was checking if there was hope for me if was able to dedicate the time. I have my doubts.