This video is a good example of why you don't want metal bucking spikes on a battery saw. When using the spikes you can hear the saw bog down which is over-heating the battery and will cause it to go into thermal shutdown. Pushing the saw like is not good for the motor or the battery.
@Pro1er I have both EGO 20" saws; and the biggest one WILL overheat rapidly in full bar cuts. The 'smaller' 20" one will run a lot longer before it overheats the battery. VERY powerful saws; but the battery technology needs to 'catch up' to these high performance saws.
I just purchased 40 acres I am turning into a campground. I have the 14" Ryobi 40v saw and I just got the 20" as well. Also have the expand-it with 8" Bush cutter and I got the 8" earth auger. Over the next year I will put them all through the ringer and see how they perform.
I just bought 10 acres of land that I am going to be building my own home on and clearing land on wondering how your experience has been so far as someone who just purchased this chainsaw
I think my days of infernal combustion engine chainsaws are over. I love the idea of not needing to futz around with mixing fuel and pulling that damn starter cord. If I need to cut sometime bigger that this saw, I will hire someone. Thanks for the helpful review.
@@Nerdysaxophoneplaya If I run a saw for 10 hours a day I've got bigger problems than gas vs. electric. 🤪I have two batteries. One on charger, one in saw. If I run one out before the other is charged than I take a break. I'm not as young as I used to be.
Fair enough. Arborist crews and loggers still haven't converted because electric isn't functional for legit work yet. Climbing saws are getting really close though
18:05 I understood that that brake also worked by mass and inertia. That your hand didn't have to activate it, the motion of the saw would activate it.
BOOM! In fact this is an apples/oranges (no pun intended) comparison. The Husky has a pro chain. A similar chain on the Ryobi will wake it right up. That's exactly what I've done with my 18", my top-handle and even my 18-volt saw.
@@madpogueMe too! I've got a dozen different battery operated chainsaws; and I've switched them all over to full chisel chains. Absolutely amazing performance increase!
Ryobi has 40v chainsaws in 14, 16, 18 and 20 inch models. Are they using the same 40v motor or is there some measurable difference on each model? Would love to see specs on battery operated chainsaws so I could compare motors before purchasing. "Gas-Like" power is not very precise. Maybe chain speed and/or torque specs would be helpful for comparison.
Have you tested a Greenworks Pro 60v chainsaw and if so how does this compare to the Greenworks? I looked through some of your videos but couldn’t find anything.
THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO. YOU REALLY TESTED & EXPLAINED, EVERY NOOK & CRANNY. ALSO APPRECIATE THE SAFETY TIPS ON CUTTING & CHAIN BREAK FUNCTION ACTIVATION. FULLY SUBSCRIBED TO YOUR CHANNEL. THANKS AGAIN !!
This is amazing! I need this! I was about to buy the 18” version but the 20” is even better for the larger cutting capacity! When will I be able to buy this!
@Nerdysaxophoneplaya I reluctantly have to agree. Heat is the enemy of big battery operated chainsaws. Maybe they'll perform better in cooler weather; I've yet to try them under those conditions.
I’m thinking to buy this tomorrow. Any gas powered chainsaw I had would never start. The B/D corded one I bought this summer keeps having the chain come off because the plastic screws already wore out. I have a Ryobi battery op saw 24v much smaller from 10 years ago. Still original chain never came off. I hope this one works as well as it looks.
Great saw but tough to source replacement chains using the part number from manual. I purchased multiple chains which meet all of the stated specs and none of them fit on the sprocket at end of bar. The drive links on the OEM chain are very small. Extremely annoying
Most reviews with these battery chainsaws they push hard and bug them down so the time will always be off, you let the chainsaw weight and a few pounds of pressure and they cut even faster.
How does this saw compare to other cordless saws of similar size and or price from other bands like Ego, Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita and so on? I fully expect those other brands to be better, but by how much is what I’m curious about.
I have a couple of the 18" EGO saws; and my 20" EGO saws are both much more technologically advanced; which justifies to me; their higher cost. But this Ryobi looks like they stuck a 20" bar on their 18" saw! Where is the justification for the ridiculously high price of the Ryobi?
I apologize if I've already posted this; but c'mon! Test this Ryobi against another battery operated 20" saw! Specifically the EGO CS2005. Or are you afraid of embarrassing Ryobi? I'm 100% sure that the EGO will SMOKE this Ryobi! PLEASE try to prove me wrong. I think it would be high entertainment!😂
I've got two 50cc saws. A Stihl 260 Pro, and a 261. Both of those saws are considerably faster than that Ryobi saw. The saw ISN'T bad for a battery saw, but Ryobi is full of it by trying to claim that it's comparable to a gas 50cc saw.
Mine too! I will say, for camping and such these battery saws are great. But you start getting into large wood, especially bucking rounds, you’re chewing through batteries. Tech isn’t there… yet.
Too many low performance numbers compared to EGO and Greenworks. And the tensioner in the side cover and the bar nuts not being captured are big drawbacks. This is a nice 350.00 saw. If you're going to charge big boy prices; you better bring the goods!
I have the 18v chainsaw with the toolless chain tensioner, and I prefer the 2 bolts on the bar with the 40v models. They just seem to hold better and are easier to adjust. But I grew up with gas chainsaws so maybe I'm just more used to the 2 bolts on the bar setup.
When your cutting you stand to the side of ya chainsaw so u don’t get hit in the head or cut ya leg off I think u better go an learn from someone who noes how to cut logs
#1: Is the oiler a variable rate oiler? You did not show it. If it is NOT a variable rate oiler then you are forced to buy VERY expensive "bar oil". IF there is a variable rate oiler, then you can used old gear oil, old used transmission oil, oil used engine oil which is FREE. When bar oil is $20/gallon and rising, being able to use USED oil which is FREE, adds up in a BIG BIG BIG Hurry. #2: Sorry, you are just wrong about kickback. Kickback ONLY happens on the TOP quadrant of the nose of the chainsaw bar. ZERO kickback happens on the bottom quadrant of the nose of the chainsaw bar.... Every lumber/arborist teacher course will show you this. The chatter from the nose which you are calling kickback is NOT kickback. The chatter is due to the fact that when the chain goes OVER the nose radius, the depth of cut it takes is GREATER than on the flat of the blade creating a more violent force than the rest of the bar. What you might also be calling kickback is you are not holding your saw straight so when full depth and held at an angle, one side of the top of the nose of the bar is rubbing on one side of the buck cut which does indeed push the nose up slightly. This is also why one wants Full CHISEL chain and not safety barf (not safe)chain as it allows the nose to cut a different direction lessening kickback instead of trying to walk up the cut like full comp does when You and I are not cutting perfectly square(nah, I would never do that ... oh right... yea I would). Safety chain AKA full comp should only be used on a limbing saw with their super short 12" or 14" blades where kickback is a SERIOUS threat. PS: Battery saws work for limbing purposes only currently(barely), bucking requires far more power than what battery saws currently show unless you are the VERY occasional use home owner. If you need Chords of wood/year, battery saws are NOT the way to go currently. Not even close.
Currently the largest battery operated saws from EGO and Greenworks have plenty of power for cutting down and bucking up trees from about 24" on down. Having enough batteries and a large solar battery to run the rapid chargers might be necessary. I cut down and bucked up a 22" 60ft tall cherry tree a couple of months ago. The three of us processed the whole tree in about two and a half hours. That includes loading it up and delivering it. The tree was processed entirely with battery operated equipment. Half a dozen chainsaws and a couple of battery operated pruning shears. VERY much fun!
@@John-cj3ve And slow as shit and VERY expensive. Yea, I saw someone use the "best" esaw and they are a joke. Now for a homeowner who does NOT burn chords of firewood a year and who only needs a saw occasionally, then yes, electric is ok(heck I even own 2, one with a chord which STILL is MUCH superior to the brand new top handle battery milqaukee saw I bought. Just like electric blowers are ~Ok for occasional use, but useless for major use. For business applicaitons other than limbing? Sorry, no. Not until a leap in battery energy density happens.
I watched the 27in log cut very carefully two times. Deduct 15 seconds from the Ryobi time, calling it an even 2 minutes, because in three of your Ryobi changes in the Cut attack angle, you did not stop the video while repositioning sides and cuts, as you did for the gas-powered chainsaw, for a total of 15 seconds spent not cutting. Whereas with the gas-powered chainsaw, you edited out the video footage of the time it took to reposition the saw each time. Add the start time and warm up time for the gas-powered chainsaw, and they're damn near even.
I think for the Gas Saw the timer should have been from Pull starting and revving the saw because the Battery saw was ready as soon as you pull the trigger
I hope it's a lot more reliable than the 18 inch. I went through three of those and they all had the same issue where they refused to take power. The third one did that at the store right out of the box with the battery that it came with.
I wonder if the bars are interchangeable on this system? Id love to buy a 20" and be able to put a 14" bar and chains set, but it seems like the sprocket may be different compared to the other saws...that would be a shame
This wasn't meant to put them head to head to see which is best. We know the Husqvarna (even with a not-new blade) is faster and better at larger projects. We just wanted to give an idea of the difference. Thanks for watching.
@@Shoptoolreviews Actually, if the Husky chain (NOT a blade) has been sharpened, it could easily be sharper than the new chain on the Ryobi. And more important, the Husky has a pro chain. Put a similar chain on the Ryobi and the result would be quite different.
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