If you have Top HiFi (S677/S688) AKA Logic7, you can still use this amp - it just requires coding your car back to HiFi (S676) first. You will lose the EQ in iDrive, and you will be moving from a digital signal to analogue, but it's a viable option and still an UG over the stock amp.
I have the audiotec fischer match up 7bmw amp which is essentially the same thing. It was expensive compared to other amps but you get what you pay for with the DSP. You will get way better quality if you use a RTA mic to correct time alignment and EQ and you can fix the rattle by putting some butyl sound deadening in the door panels around the speakers
Yes, this is the mutchup8 but basically the same in reality. The RTA mic setup, is what bimmertech are doing for each chassis. Basicaly they are going through and giving the users tunes for the speakers and chassis and ideally getting the most out of the system. Which is what i like about it. Just think they need to put more emphasis on how high end the system is. The way its been marketed prior, i legit thought it was some china amp, getting rebranded. Its actually an expensive bit of kit that they have then spent time tuning.
I wish we could hear what you are hearing! The technology that is happening with processing these days is amazing and I'm sure this is tops for our Bimmers! Thanks! Using power efficiently with matched speakers for that system is how to get the very best sound!
Awesome video, I've been thinking about doing bavsound on my g30 hifi, but you've just convinced me to call and just place an order for the amp and call it a day! 10/10 video. I'm just as pumped as your speakers haha! A well earned sub from a very well made video.
@3:54 i think it uses two channels for the front (front left + front right) and 2 for the back (rear left + rear right), the tweeters and mids are separated only by a crossover which is basically a capacitor off the tweeter pigtail. then the other two go to each subwoofer. i could be wrong and its just an assumption but its how a lot of factory systems do it and dont typically use active crossovers and dedicated speaker wires for each individual driver.
Only the top individual B&W systems in the G series chassis use fully active designs. All other BMW’s run the mids and tweeters off a shared channel with passive components. And yes, in lower end that amounts to nothing but a 1st order 6dB/oct HP on the tweeter.
Good looking kit! Im scared to go down the quality audio rabbit hole again it's like chasing hp never ends hahaha, jb's system is beautiful tho!Keen to try an amp on my 335 14 speaker HK. More importantly tho... Congrats on a working e9x cup holder!
Hi Andrew - just FYI do yourself a favor and do code the SA676 - HiFi on both cars. The basic system and the HiFi-System have a different loudness-and EQ-curves out of the HU and both do change acc the speed your are driving. The curve of the HiFi one is a way more linear Signal then the one you would get out from the coding of the base System. I went for the SA677 because I use a MOST-Adapter and the Helix dsp.3 (the full blown version of the dsp that is in that amp) to get a really linear Signal into my DSP 18:12 -Neffex? EDIT: 20:15 that effect might be that the signal the amp/dsp detects starts clipping and the DSP tones down the output to reduce the risk of damaging the speakers later when you test the bimmertech speakters to - maybe think about doing some sounddeadening around the bass speakers too - also on the outside where the speaker box vents into the chassis rails. It is not uncommon that the car starts ratteling once you upgrade the bass speakers
This is a factory hifi, but I will check how coded just to be safe. I do have some sound deadening but for the video I will fit the speakers with out. As I think that’s what most people will do. Very good points though!
Great, informative review! That’s a first when it comes to reviews of this product 😄 Interesting, it’s a white labeled Match dsp. If the pre-made tunes are really well made, might be worth the money if you want a plug and play install. But if you are going to tinker with the settings anyway, might be better to just buy a Match UP7BMW. Match provides car specific tunes as well, would be useful as a base tune.
Dont tell anyone i told you this. But this is the matchup8. Which is purely just for the extra power i assume. over the 7, which they used to sell. Regardless the out of box tunes from bimmertech are on point. That said once you have the software setup, you have full controll if you want to tweak anything to suit your own preference.
But have you SEEN and HEARD the Revenant Pro Amp? They do the same thing with custom equalizing per chassis. This issue is common in home audio as well, specifically with surround sound, but even 2 channel audio can be done poorly, when the listener doesn't understand how the systems were engineered to work. That's without even scratching the surface of treatments, equalization, and time alignment. Every time I reveal something to a client about their system, it's like pulling a veil from over their eyes. Cool stuff.
I haven’t heard revenant pro. However it’s made by the same people that make this one, which you likely know. The old version was the matchup7, do you know what the current pro is based on?
By the time my CIC + Mr.12Volt is in, I hope these guys have something coming for Logic 7 equipped cars. Also, fantastic review mate, good to hear from someone who knows what they're talking about.
While I think this sounds better than my logic 7 setups. It’s way harder to justify this amp vs a logic 7 amp and the price point. So don’t feel you are missing out at all.
Great info! And certainly an in depth and practical review. Upgrading my sound system is somewhere down there on my list of stuff I "need" for my '09 135i. I honestly don't know which factory system I have though. I plugged in my VIN into Bimmer-Tech's site and it says I have a S677A HiFi System Professional DSP... still not sure what that means. 🤔 But apparently the amplifier upgrade is not compatible. I can say for sure that my factory unit does have basic EQ functionality; and sounds pretty decent actually. I'd be game for the amp upgrade, and maybe a pair of new subwoofers. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Your system is the higher end MOST25 bus based kit. In other BMW’s it’s called Logic 7, but in 1er’s there is no center channel.. so no ‘7’th channel. Options: 1) MObridge MOST25 8.1.1 amplifier - same basic idea as this amp, but compatible with the superior SQ MOST25 systems. 2) MOST25 to Toslink converter then DSP of your choosing. If you’re willing to spend the money for the ultimate, this is the only way to go. 3) Code your car back to HiFI (S676) then use one of these integration amps. You will lose the graphic EQ in iDrive, and the power delta will be less (because Top HIFI has more power to begin with), bit still a viable option
I have hifi in my m340 and looking to get more volume. Better sound quality would be nice but I’m mainly after volume. Will just buying the amp do the job?
when i was in my early 20's i use to be in to loud bass, had 4 12's in the rear of my ford explorer on 1600 watts rms, the last system i did was in my e46 with a pair of skar audio shallow mount 10's in the trunk of my car, (they are rated for 1000rms but they just dont have the box or cone area to get anywhere close to the 4 12's i had but im okay with that) 2 alpine 50x4 amps and a 1000x1 and hertz mille pro speakers on an active crossover built in to my pioneer head unit. ive done quite a fair bit of my own systems in between and thought about doing one in my e90, ive done some research and didnt really feel like the bav kits were worth the money tho plug and play i dont see a lot of bang for the buck. i found a most optical to tosslink converter and from there could buy some really high end amps that use tosslink optical but that rout was too much money for me. also thought about replacing factory amp with a couple of kicker key200.4's on factory logic 7 speakers. the amps put out 45x4 and have automatic adjustments where you hook up a microphone by where your head would be and play test tones to auto tune a 40-band EQ and the time alignment. i remember watching or reading something about it being able to tell or you could set what channels were powering subs, mids, or highs for crossover points. im right there with you on the amp being the first upgrade tho.
I have an older android head unit with terrible sound through the aux channel. I recall a video where you upgraded your android head unit for better sound. Is the quality of this amp lost on even that upgraded unit? If not , i may fire go the android head unit for a newer CarPlay only unit and a new amp. I have an 93. Do you know if they have two maps for the 93 roof on and roof off?
My android have all been sweet quality wise. I have heard a car play unit with this issue tho. Its like all the midrange is missing. Sounds bizzare to say the least. i would not run a low quality android or carplay box through one of these its a waste. As for maps for roof up and down, i dont think so.
Do you get good midrange in those door speakers? Because I had a 2010 bmw E90.. I put in the focal speaker kit.. and put in shallow 8 inch subs.. put in a jl audio 8 channel amp that provided great power but still there was almost no midrange.. it was so much bass and treble.. the focal kit was known for being “bright” but yeah the lack of mid drove me nuts. I just purchased a 2023 330 with hifi.. I bought the bimmertech amp.. yes it sounds way better but again I’m feeling a bit like the mids are meh.. I so wish the 3 series came with the diamond B&O speaker package the ix and i7 come with.. it’s incredible. But anyhow. Please let me know how bimmertechs speakers change things… if you have time
In this car the amp made the biggest difference. Then the subs which do a fair bit of the work for the mids. Being only 4" door speakers they dont have much power mid range compared to a 6 inch. The bimmertech speakers are definitely an improvement over stock. But they might not be what you are chasing.
but the thing about the speaker sized to the door.. i dont know, sound speaking, if the new speaker is lighter, more power efficient, with a more powerful amp, the speaker will hit hard no the amp is the key there to me, and the one to buy
I have the basic system in my current F31 my old F31 had a Harmon Kardon which I really miss. I am assuming I will need to do the speakers, as well as the amp, with a basic system due to the limitations of the wiring? The basic system has no real punch.
Do you have tweeters in the front doors? If not you will need to change the speakers. You might be able to get away with just doing subs and some custom tuning from bimmertech. But if you can stretch for the whole lot you wont regret it.
Awesome review with meaningful explanations. Is there an easy way to check which audio option a car has? e.g. option code on the spec sheet? I don’t see anything audio related on mine so I guess it’s base :(
You can use a vin decoder like mdecoder and it will list your factory stereo option. Then google the code to make sense. Bimmertech do it as well. But they show what works for your car. Not what your car was (I think)
Another reason why the stock system just isn't as good as these newer DSP+Amps is the amplifier topology - back in the early 2000's nearly all amps were class A/B, which was only about 50% efficient. These newer amps are using class D and class G, which is more like 90-95% efficient. So more power in less space. DSP has also moved the game forward several leaps. I'm certain the Alpha One speakers will take it to another level again too. As for how much I've spent, it's better not to add it up. Ignorance is bliss 😅
So I'm just going to say it... I'm super jealous that its warm there all year round. My 535i is covered in snow right now. I've been looking at the Bav systems for awhile. You've got me sold on the Bimmertech system, but I need to figure out what the heck is going on. The previous owners had subs and an amp that are no longer in the car. I think the stock amp is in the car, but relocated. Gotta figure all that stuff out.
Very likely they tapped in to the sub output n the car to driver aftermarket subs. That’s what is happening in one of my other cars. Crack open that rear trim panel in the boot and see what Hackery is going on with the amp wiring. If yours hifi or logic7
@@ZeroTo60Tube I'm pretty sure its the hifi, but I didn't do much digging before it got way too cold and the snow started flying. Tomorrow has a high of 16 degree F and a low of -1 degrees F, so I wont be out there for a bit. lol I do recall a rather factory looking amp mounted to the back of the trunk and not in the factory location. There are some big old thick wires running from the front of the car no longer attached to anything. I'm assuming those were to the previous amp. As soon as it gets warm, I've got an aftermarket Pemp Android head unit I need to install too. Heres to hoping the hackery is pretty simple to decipher. lol I have a feeling that the biggest hurdle for this whole car will be that it started as some one else's project. Not because things are wrong, but because I'm not starting from factory and I'm sure I'll find things that are unexpected. lol
I have the base system in my 335i. The only upgrade I did was to add the BMW door tweeters. Would that be a good base for buying just the amp? I know you probably answered this already in the video but the terminology of base systems has me lost a bit. Also the coupon code XMASZEROTO60 isn't working at the moment.
You will need to verify which subs you have. And would likely need to modify the wiring in the car to give the subs a seperate channel from the amp. The amp will likely be too powerful, but you can tune it down to maximise your current speakers and then possibly upgrade later if you still have the itch. The ket to it working will be having hifi subs at a minimum. Or go the bimmertech subs with your current door speakers. They will be able to make it work. Will email them about the promo asap.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I only had the amp in the basket when trying to promo so it may be only valid for the full kit. I see that the euro base system is a lot more basic than the US base, I'll see how much wiring is needed. Thanks for the info!
I have the S676A HiFi system in my F80 M3 according to their website, is that the same as what you tested and as such would just recommend the amp or would you recommend sub/speaker upgrades?
Wow didn’t expect to see a S676a in a f80. If that’s what you have this amp will make a massive difference. Was just talking to someone with that setup in a f30, he said this amp is best single thing you can do to the S676a f series. It was make you car sound better than a S677 (Harmon kardon) and take 5 mins to install.
@@ZeroTo60Tube that's what the pure seems to come with according to the VIN and build sheet I have. I predominantly want more bass so do you think it's worth upgrading the subs as well or should the amp be more than enough?
@@reaprr Would make sense in the "pure" models to have hifi only. Yes, absolutely will increase your bass significantly. It nearly doubles the power going to subs. But then with the bimmertech DSP tuning it makes the signal hitting the subs much easier for them to handle. Its a really clever bit of kit.
Depending on the situation it's "marketing" regarding the amplifier when it comes to... some topics. In most cases the amplifier uses the high level Inputs. In this case: The already highly amplified signal is coming from the headunit with all of it's noise, distortion, etc. and it goes (...) inside the alpha one amplifier. Then it's doing an analog to digital conversion, do some DSP stuff to amplify everything again at the end. It's technically not possible in this scenario to be better in terms of... signal to noise ratio, distortion... which are really really important things when we speak about sound quality. The "higher" BMW amps. like the L7 are using the digital signal which is much better. The individual amp is using Dirac filter (...) I don't know why alpha one doesn't offer the option to use the MOST bus as even some Android Auto / Apple Carplay Interfaces (e.g. from Mr. 12V) are using MOST to increase Audio quality. It bypasses the headunit by giving the Audio signal directly to the BMW amp which is really nice. I don't want to say the speakers are good or bad or that the amplifier is bad. But depending on your individual situation it's simply not a good idea to use the high level Inputs due to too many conversations of the audio signal. It's like to photograph a picture from your smartphone screen and doing some Photoshop afterwards. The result will loose details even with a high end camera.
While you are absolutely spot on with how its working. I think a lot of people get caught up in the benifits of a digital input for no good reason. Just so you know these amps are only sold to suit base and hifi systems. Which are all analogue based anyway. Its only the top hifi and indivual BMW systems with the fibre optic amps. On the same note, not many people are listening to high defnition audio files anyway. That said this does have an optical input which could be used for a handheld high defnition audio player. Also the second you start moving the road noise, engine noise all destroys any level of sound quality people are chasing with the real high systems. I genuinely think these amps are the best thing you can do to a base or hifi BMW stereo. They are expensive, but they are incredible value for money.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Nice reply and I agree to the main message :) I just wanted to show it's important to know about it's boundaries and this was not mentioned anywhere. The (on their Website) advertised "Studio quality" is hard or not possible to reach by it's principle in case the high level input is used. Anyway... At the end of the day it's important to be happy with the result. Seems to be you are ;)...
Instead of looking at the SNR of the individual components, consider it across the whole system and the environment.. What’s the Signal To Noise of a car audio system playing at 100dB when the ambient noise from driving is 80dB? 😅 That’s why power matters most 👍🏽
@Zero To 60 no. Delete the clutched pulley on the alternator. My alternator is good but the clutch is failing and I'm not trying to spend $700 on an alternator right now. Merry Christmas btw!!
@@jacobbub506 you can just change the pulley. To fixed. Some of mine have fixed and some are free spinning. The idea is the alternator will keep spinning on fast engine decelerations and make a little more power for a little longer. Can impact drag on the crank on a very shaft shifting gearbox like dct.
I would probably rather have it installed if possible, if you’s are crazy busy I could always try it myself. And budget haven’t really got one at the moment if you could give me a idea of the different packages and cost that would be awesome please 🙏🏻
@@cameronhall9103 To give you an idea on range. DIY you are looking at $10k in parts for a full setup. It can be up around $20k for everything installed and tuned.
@@cameronhall9103 I should just add to that. There are people that quote lower figures, there are people that say they can do a single for much less. However those cars are generally slower than a proper setup china turbo. To do single turbo properly and have a car that is properly fast is big money.
Yea that’s fair I’m hearing ya! I definitely wanna do it the right way that’s for sure. I would be pretty keen on getting all the parts from you guys and installing it myself. Would you be able to tell me everything that is included in it ? I appreciate it mate and I’m so keen for it 👌🏻👌🏻
not a huge fan of the Bimmer tech alpha one amp and speakers - if I had to do it again, would have someone else install the speakers and attempt to dial in the amp. Make sure you have PC to be able to download the DSP tool software. The guy that does the software mods to tune the audio files, only works certain hours from the east coast and would rather email you a file than work with you remotely to dial in the system to your specifications. This takes time/days to attempt to dial it in to your preferences. Currently, not a huge fan. Definitely wouldn't purchase this again.
