Your the man my friend… thank you for putting all these tutorials up let alone for free and always answering back whenever I have a question. I appreciate you. ✌🏻…NJ
Good afternoon my friend had another question for you, so I finally got into the scooter and I cut the GPS and battery plastic carrier out. I have two red wires, two black wires, a green or yellow in the blue where in the video yours has yellow red black and the blue wire twist it around the bottom of them. Any ideas? Please help lol!! And as always, thank you very much because without you, this wouldn’t be possible🫡
Can always use some hot glue to squirt on all those fragile soldering connections to keep them in place. I used that trick when modding Xboxes back in the day
Not sure you mention it in any of your vids, but the special screws they use for the 6 middle on the battery shell are m5 threads. I replaced mine with m5x10mm "cap" screws.
Oh HEADS UP EVERYBODY!!! Step #1 Disconnect your bloody Battery!!! I have done plenty of electrical work & on scooters to know as much as we know, we tend to forget or over look some minor/ major details and only later does it become apparent such as in my case of being tired and just on auto-pilot watching the video and following instructions. At no point was I made aware of my fatal mistake until I touched a live wire and got a small spark. No damages but still a good wakeup call to the obvious 1st step not mentioned. LoL I'm such a putz.
could easily have been your last mistake. you can't Fuck around with a drill batteries worth of lithium cells let alone the 50 or whatever that's in this battery this is not the kind of thing that you do on autopilot or when you're tired or without tape on your wedding ring, in slippers, on your bed, with kids around. ijs that battery pack once removed from its outer shell can kill you 3 different ways at least. a cheap scooter isn't worth your life please don't learn electronics or how to solder with this project.
It’s so ghetto I love it. Human ingenuity in session. I learnt that these things are built just like a typical PEV ie: escooter but with extra stuff to track it and probably to monitor usage/pay and junk. Also, they are built like a tank. You could probably drop this 10 feet high and it’ll just run fine after which. The battery part looks scary af. One wrong touch and poof ⚡️ your done for. There a lot of take away here it’s so dope 👌🏼
Lol ayyyee thanks bro 😎! Yeah you definitely want to be careful when dealing with these battery packs I almost caused a fire because something I bought on Amazon was not what a claim to be And he caused an explosion.. but you’re absolutely right the schools are commercial grade and they can take a punch.. i’m always going off road Burning through his tires jumping off curves going through mud, heavy duty shit.. and I got to say these tires are truly puncture proof lol.. very reliable Scooter I can say… probably better than a scooter you would buy off-the-shelf 🤷♂️ just saying..
True that, I ain’t electronically inclined and if I attempt something like that, bad shit will most likely happen sooner or later imo. Watched that vid where your step down dc to dc controller went poof and your burn out vids too lol. Those bird models tho kinda looks like the new 2022 9bot GT models coming mid this year. Very dope m8! GG 👌🏼 keep em coming boss
Great video. I'm getting ready to do the same. Where the brakes are I have 2 red 2 black 1 green 1 yellow and 1 blue. Also, I never seen any reference to the step down convertor. Thank you.
Hey man thanks for everything. I'm halfway through the build. One thing and I don't know is it just the iron or me but those weld sites a really hard to weld. I had to hot them with a torch.
I believe you’re using the wrong Solder .. If you’re having to use a torch well then it sounds like you’re using plumbing solder. Or if you purchased a soldering iron kit which included Solder will then that could also be your issue..that solder is cheap and useless It’ll melt your wires From how hot you have to get the solder. Bad for the components as well. Are all of that heat for a long period of time will just cause damage. Check this out !! it’s what I use .👇 www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BGTSWYB?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Ok I see you understand what youre doing but could you explain it a little better. If I just knew what wires were what this would be simple but all we get is this black to that black this to that without even a good description of which bundles of wires we are talking about... I really appreciate the work you have done I just want to get this thing going.
great instructional video but was hoping to see you showing a test ride . i want to take this project on but skeptical due to no proof of your modifications actually working when following your instructions
Hey fella check out P&J's video on headlight hack. It's a work around that you just hard wire into the 5v and GND on the speed controller. Eliminating your need for a step down all together.
Great work 👍 thank you! I got some questions: why don’t you solder a Y-plug to the main power plug? I did that for plugging the charging plug there, too. It works fine, cause charging through the old charging port does not work, caused by the bms… so it looks that you don’t use a display? How do you turn on the scooter? Did you put a main power switch between? And I don’t think that the solution for the light would be the best, because soldering on the controller’s board isn’t that easy. I prefer the step down solution by using a simple and small stepdown converter using the 36 Voltage of the battery itself…
Scooter doesn’t have an on off switch pretty much takes off when you give it throttle, this is one of the several ways to do this, I made other videos using zero display throttles, which comes with a throttle and display for speed and battery monitoring, it’s a little more expensive but it’s worth it ,I like the original look personally, another thing is one of those displays broke on me I simply drop the scooter and it snapped ! I had a melt it back together and then go around it with some electrical tape and then top it off with some zip ties, results were ugly at the end. I just didn’t like it at the end. Your scooter should charge like normal though !! Even without the output bypass scooter charges like normal through the original charging port
@@pjscootermods mine also no longer would charge through original charge port. It did the first go round, however after removing board in neck by LED ring it would not, assumed that was why, First time I tried plugging in it acted as throttle was being pressed and began spinning wheel. Wired a bypass into charge port and no issue now.
@@iMAGAmamba Yeah that’s strange bro !! But then again like you said maybe it has something to do with the LED ring , I have never had that issue but then again the bird 3 in your area have the LED ring light on the neck of the scooter , over here in my area they don’t ! so that could have something to do with it I’m guessing !! I haven’t took one of those apart yet at least not the one with the ring around the neck. But that’s good news to know for those who it applies to 💯 Appreciate the feedback
Funny as hell how long you wrestled that battery 😅. I just wanna say thanks for all the helpful videos, they have made my life easier. Just being honest, when you talk I can barely hear shit. I got a 250 dollar mic you can have, I'm being serious to .
1. You are a crazy awesome MoFo. Thank you, thank you, thank you. 2. When you wired your master kill switch, was it between... the battery and the controller? And why do you always choose the negative side to wire -- on all Razors etc it's on the positive side, between battery and everything else. (OK, amps, I'd need a kill switch capable of handling 25 amps, right?) 3. You mentioned you had figured out the regenerative braking, but hadn't posted a video, "it was all on the controller"... would you mind? Again, mega-thx!
Regenerative braking should be as simple as bridging x and DS together on the back of the controller board. After that you should have your regenerative braking. For the kill switch you want to make sure it can take at least 21 amps .
Hey man when you plug in the white wire at the end and tire started spinning. Do I unplug the white wire and use my throttle? What’s next after that white wire
OK so after you unplug your self study Wires and you’re tire is spending the correct way from there that’s it. If everything works according to Then you can put your scooter back together after that.
I've heard you could get them at police auctions, but I know around me the local tow truck companies happen to have a couple of them because kids either steal them and have them in their house for so long without getting caught that they leave them somewhere and they end up getting towed or somebody gets arrested with a stolen one without the GPS and the tow truck company will only hold it for so long before they sell it off. Try calling your local tow companies like the ones that tow for any stores around you or apartment complexes.
When you're seeing the wires in and getting the 5 V supply from inside the controller aren't there some controllers that already have a 5 V labeled coming out of it on the schematics of which wire does what that comes with it?
A lot of times it won’t tell you unless there’s instructions that come with the box, or if it’s labeled by the seller,But if you do have some connectors that are extra on your controller you can simply test your leads with a voltmeter meter and get your reading that way that’s how I do it! I only got up to 4.3 V when testing Wires, I already tried that, it needs 5v . It might work but it probably be very very dim
Wanted to know if u could help me out when hooking up the throttle the two wires that come with the throttle cable those hook up to what isn't one positive and neg
There should be a total of 4 wires coming from your throttle You’re only using 3 of those wires 1. Red - 4.2 V power 2.yellow Signal wire 3.black - negative
So did we figure out how to wire the topside correctly yet? I have more wires on my top side so I don't know what goes where cuz it's not the same as yours. Just been sitting on using I need your help
Trace the wires down, get a new controller and make the wires what you want, grab wires and pull to see which is which. I usually think of having all the wires and main components on a table, makes it easier. Battery to controller, controller to throttle, if ignition cords make a loop to short the two wires together so ignition is stuck on, or wire a switch. Just see if you can get motor to fire before all the neat and tidy wiring. Now controller to motor. Phase wires, blue, green, yellow, red, black, blue, green, yellow. Once hooked up see if motor will turn. If so yay! If not then it's multimeter time. Start at battery, Then controller, check throttle, ignition and then hall, if volts are there and good, try switching phase wire, 2 at a time and see if you get anything, this is all trial and error and trouble shooting. I've wired up about 5 scooters and after the second one you find out this shit is pretty simple. Hope I could help
hey, the video was very helpful, I have one question, first I have to do what you said in the video (Brid 2 scooter step by step conversion), then come to this video or can I start from this video? i will be thankful if you answer me.
Have you thought about building a dual motor B2 or 3 ?it requires the front fork to be modified to have a motor bolt to it. Not the most simple thing but it’s possible with some cheap power tools.
Seems all the Bird 2(no, bird 3) scooters Ive come across use the 7-lobe security bolt on the smaller bolts on the bottom. You cannot buy this bit online unless you have a contract with the supplier. I tried everywhere, no luck. If anyone knows where to find some, let me know. Just wanted to warn people, if they buy or get a scooter they will have a hard time getting into the base, as they switched from the 6 lobe bolts seen in this video to the more secure 7-lobe variety. Edit: this channel has a great video explaining the techniques used in dealing with 7-lobes.
Well, same for the Bird 3, however it known that it doesn't prevent using a hammer with another proper drill bit, or brute force. These things are preferred over retail because if someone else taken it, it is not possible to list it online, and easy to repair from another thing.
LOL I feel hella dumb, found the video on this channel explaining how to deal with 7-lobes right after I wrote that. Got hella zooted and posted comments where I spoke out of my ass....business as usual it seems.
@@anongen0169 you are forgiven young jedi. admitting your oops reflects great character strengths. your usual business will be blessed if you continue this noble and humble way. stating(or admitting) thy problems is step 1 towards the solution for how can one have a solution if there not be a (stated) obvious promblem. you will be great danielson.
Na I have no clue ! The process is the same I can say that much. If the battery is a 36 V well then you want to go with a 36 V controller kit for it that’s pretty much all you need for your scooters to run! If your battery pack happens to be 48 V then you want to stick with a 48 V controller kit .. as far as the tools needed to take apart I have no clue. Not the same bits used for bird that’s forsure .
My scooter has alot more going on up onthe top side. Can you please tell me which wires i need and dont need up there. I got my all wired up the way that you do it and it doesn't work with mine so either my controller's battery I miss something or my scooter's different just trying to figure out which of those is the problem so I can move forward thanks so much for the information you provided so far you've been wonderful good work
Hey so I hooked everything up everything work. The only problem I ran into it doesn’t charge. Everything is good. In the meantime I just soldered wires on top of the battery motherboard and it’s charging finally. Just want to know how to avoid doing that.
That’s crazy that should never be the case 💀. I have no idea how that happened. i’ve never had an issue charging a scooter . if there was an issue, it was because the battery BMS was flashing a red light indicating an issue. But typically you charge it through the charging port at the back where the small xt30 pokes out The opposite, and goes directly to the charging port
On the existing black plastic display cover Cut a rectangle shape similar to the 365 display inside of that so it fit. But to use the m365 display u need to get a m365 controller with it, you can’t just wire any controller to this m365 display. Once you do get the proper controller to go with it everything will work just the way it were on the original m365 Connect to the app Through Bluetooth etc. only thing you will be actually wiring from your bird 2 is the battery , throttle,and lights , the display to the controller should be plug and play . Be sure you bypass your BMS !
not sure about the 2, but I know on the 3 the taillight cover says "Satelite position" (or something similar instead of position) and the board underneath is way more complicated and necessary for a simple LED light. Would recommend removing/replacing; possible Hunter network locator..
So what are you saying The goddamn scooters got a satellite positioning on it The bird threes Come on man Need a fucking post some real shit if that's real! But if it's real let us know! I'll be throwing fake news and shit
@@JzNMuzak Go look for yourself before you try and put someone on blast, idiot. That’s what it says so when you read that and consider the fact that “Hunter’s” have still been able to track and locate these despite the brain being removed, coming to the conclusion that it’s a possibility as mentioned/forewarned, would seem rational. Didn’t say it is that for certain. At least you tried tho 👏🏼
@@pjscootermods yeah maybe, I don't know I've never seen any B2's, Indy local. Have B3, Lime Gen 3 dual brake and single brake, and Spin Ninebot Max. Also the black Bird One's I believe? Haven't messed with one of those though. It de4finitely says that tho, I'll snap a pic of it when I go out to my shop later and post a link on here to help spread more "Fake News" as little snowflake below claims. Thanks for the vid tho dude, I wired a keyed ignition in place of the headlight and removed the board in the neck by the LED ring and installed a voltage meter display that fits perfectly on the head in the hole where the orange button goes. I used almost same controller but mine had a 3 speed mode connector that I shorted out to highest setting and mine averages 19mph and up tp 22mph downhill. Pretty fun and hella torquey (thanks to shunt mod)
and then I have a Harley projector Halo LED headlight mounted in place of stock headlight that I run with 2 LED strips mounted to the base that I power off a drill battery in a battery pouch at the base of the neck. In place of the tailight, I have a rechargeable Bluetooth Trek bicycle tailight that fit wedged perfectly in the spot where the stock taillight goes and is way brighter and gooder than OG. (yes, gooder not better; Indy local 🌽😂💪🏻)
yo brotha, so i got it all hooked up and i connected the green wire together and yes the back wheel started to spin backwards,, so i disconnected it and then reconnected it again and it started to spin the right way.... but now i dont get what to do from here... my throttle isnt working,, when i push down on the throttle, nothing happens... what did i do wrong??
I through them tabs away now I just got the display from amazon but I think it's for the bird 1 can I put it on bird two if you have time can you get back to me with a video link
Never seen a veo scooter, process is the same tho just grab you a brushless controller depending on what the battery is rating on that veo scooter is like I said I’m not sure it could be a48v Battery inside the veo scooter instead of a 36 V battery and if that’s the case then you want to stick with a 48 V brushless controller
@@pjscootermods Absolutely 💯 Controller and Brushless motor is all u really need u right.. I did a few birds in the past … Also ℹ subscribe like ya channel King 👑 💪🏾
I can't get the throttle to work. The only time the will moves is when I connect the two white wires. But those white wires make it go forward and backwards. My throttle has no use once I connect the two white wires so how do I get it to only go forward using the throttle only???
I connected everything like the video and at 44:58 you connect the connector and the tire spins and it spins the correct direction how do you stop the tire from spinning and using the throttle only way to stop the tire from moving is disconnecting that connector ???
After you unplug your self study wires/intelligent wires your tire stops spinning on its own. And the only way to engage the motor should be to the throttle
Hello, we bought controller 36v 350w Brushless, but the two wide red cables are not there, in your video we can se them both. Besides other colors, we have only one wide red cable, and wide black one. And also I want to ask on 36-48v stepdown converter (your link no. 12). The video does not show that you did anything with it and mounted it somewhere. Where do we use it? Thank you in advance.
When you bridge B+ to P+ you are bypassing the Battery output which allows you to drive the scooter. If you use a multi meter and do a battery reading before doing the bypass on your battery you will get 0 volts but after doing the output bypass ( p+ to b+ ) you will see your existing 30to 42v
Hey man! Can I use this method and cut the main black wire going to the controller and attach it to an on and off switch? Would that work with this method?
It’s crazy how some people claimed that their battery does not charge.. so far every scooter that I have encountered has charged without having to do anything to it . Just plug the scooter in and it’s a charges like normal.. but to actually ride the scooter you would have to do the bypass for your output..
If the scooter is not where the gps is telling it it’s at then it gets reported to bird from there they take the scooter off the map completely. the scooter will stay on the map for as long as whoever owns it reports it lost/stolen
Damn that's so G you actually got it running! 💯🙂🏆👏 Appreciate You Sharing Your Skills. My ? If you can plz reply when you have time I did everything you did except i didn't snap that mines the bird 3 it sparked like you do in last step but it didn't start :( Im missing something can you plz help Also I like to add that the controller I'm using came from a razor metro hd seated scooter hope you get back at me I needed to get around thank you for your time!! Does soldering have to be in a certain temperature does cold weather affect a soldering job ???
Thank you for the feedback !! Is your controller 36 V ? Does this controller have self study wire ? Does your wheel want to spin like A vibration or a locked will. For that I may have a solution.. you may need to purchase a controller
If you have self study wires plug them in and your wheels it’s been automatically on its own. Make sure all your wires are connected properly. You don’t want any wires touching each other that can cause a short
Thanks ! no To the electrical break but I do know how to do the regenerative braking if that’s what you’re referring to.. very simple not sure if I posted a video of that yet.. it’s all done inside the controller housing on the back of the board..
@@pjscootermods we have here all Lime and Bird series, I did test them all, this scooter is the best ! this aluminum style is cool ! just need better brakes ;)
Strangely enough they took all the spin scooters out of my area .. we used to have them years ago like in the beginning when they started 2018/2019 era.. some places still have them but not over here, The procedure is the same using a brushless controller also on some of the spin Scooter models you can just simply flash the controller /reprogram it and not have to buy anything else.. except for maybe a kill switch !!
Hi P&J, great tutorial BTW. I say it entirely and I have the following questions: 1 - What is the Ohm for the headlight resistor? If im not wrong I saw Orange, black, black, gold = 30 Ohms 5% It's Correct? 2 - If the motor is 400W why did you used a 350W controller and not a 400W ? 3 - It was not shown in the video, what have you done to switch the scooter on and off? Did you put an on/off button somewhere in the scooter? Can you show? 4 - Have you tested this build for too long? As I see in your forum topic about bird 2, many people saying that their 36v 350W Controller blew out after short miles. Why? Thanks in Advance
1. Yes you’re correct it is a 30 on resistor ,If you hook the LED up directly to the 5 volts without a resistor, the LED will be over-driven, it will be very bright for a while, and then it will burn out 2.Running a 400W motor with a 350W controller will not damage anything. The controller is what limits the current flowing to the motor, so the motor can't "pull" more than the controller will allow. But also I haven’t found any 400 W controllers. They do have 400 W PWM brushless controllers which are small in size, but I haven’t tried those out yet, but I decided to go up to a 500 W controller because it delivers more amps/current compared to the 350 W controller which only delivers 13 Amps which really isn’t much if you’re trying to go up any hills. The reason for controller blowing out is more or less because of the shunt mods, I personally blew out about 4 or 5 controllers in the beginning when I was doing the shunt mods, it’s not necessary though the scooter runs fine the way it is without the Shunt mod 3. You would have to add your own Killswitch. 4. So far I have two bird still holding up One has a 500 W controller in it The other has a 1000 W.. actually I had one that died and it had no Killswitch the battery drained completely because there was an open gate, battery was completely drained . Yes add a kill switch/on off switch definitely recommended. Otherwise you’re battery will drain. My other scooter with the Killswitch has been in the garage for about three weeks and still cuts on and off and rides
@@pjscootermods Perfect, so the 36V 500W Controller still fit in the battery case? DO you have the link for your controller? Another thing mine is a bird 2 just by its body format, mine has the light in the neck below the handlebar, this version its still compatible with this mods? The controller with display+accelerator+on/off button that you used in other birds still works? Your soldering iron has how many watts? Because I am not able to solder the battery bypass cable P+/B+ I can melt the factory solder.
@@PNSaIbOt The 500W Brushless Controller will not fit inside the bird to scooter , but since you mentioned you have the ring around the lower neck then it sounds like he might have a bird 3 . With a bird 2 scoot you could only fit a 350 W brushless controller inside of it. There’s not a whole Lotta space inside the battery housing.. yeah man that solder is pretty hard to takeoff or loosen up at that, mainly the big blobs. But the soldering gun I’m using i’m able to control the temperature. I keep mine at 400 f although I think it goes up to about 600
@@pjscootermods Hi, I have searched for both Bird 2 and Bird 3 and in fact the Bird 3 has this led rind below the neck/handlebar and Bird 2 don't. But its body seems the same, do you know if there are size differences? In Bird 3 do we have space for 500W Controller? The same moding method applies? Or Bird 3 will have some different wires? Do you have any moded Bird 3 Tutorial? About the battery hack I finally was able to solder the P+ with B+ I have used my SMD electronic soldering iron at 500ºc!!
@@PNSaIbOt OK as far as the battery pack the only thing that needs to be done to that is the b+ to P+ bridge and that’s it you can close that up afterwards. The wiring is the same on both scooters the second and third generation. The bird three scooter is just taller and height , longer handlebars , headlight has a reflector on it, backlight is shaped differently, longer deck. The bird to scooter is just smaller , but as far as the wiring goes it’s all the same. The 500 W controller will only fit inside the bird three scooter not the bird 2, I don’t have any videos showing but the black plastic around the battery pack has to be trimmed down some on both sides top and bottom.
How about the Lyme scooter g30 the conector for the Dash face control board connector is different is the hack that or where can find that face control with that conector
Also was watching one or ur videos an didn't realized I still had to pop out battery but saw u hesitate a bit but no biggie for u anyways before I tried it I sprayed small amount of wd40 not soaked or anything jus enough to get some good friction but that sucker came out like butter ,my question is that a no no will the wd40 damage the battery
No you should be good with the WD-40 just be sure that it doesn’t find away to seep into The battery bms, you wouldn’t want some of that liquid to create contact with the components on the board.
On the bird 3 scooters since the housing compartment has much more room I would recommend going with a bigger controller. I made a few videos with a different controller types inside of them.-bird 3- Check it out !
Hey jus bought a bird at the city auction an jus have a simple maybe dumb question but it all about saving that paper ur opinion does it matter the price of the speed controller cause seen a lot of them ranging 7$ to 80$ would a 10$ speed controller do the job for a bird or would go with 30 to 40$ speed controller thanks digging ur videos
Thanks : Yes you can use a cheap controller it doesn’t matter it’s gonna work the same way as a $80 controller would work.Sellers put their own prices on these controllers and then a lot of times the price also goes up as the voltage and amperage goes up ,The controller gets bigger and bulkier more Mosfets and higher rating capacitors.. I have never had an issue with a controller just going out on its own, so I would say you’re pretty safe on choosing a pretty damn cheap controller because I’ve done so myself. And then you have those controllers which are programmable, using a computer and some software you can program your scooter how you like it, you can adjust the amount of amps you want your controller to draw etc. But for starters I would definitely start with something cheap ! Especially if it’s a first time project
Hey, would you happen to know of any wireless controllers that would work on the wheel motor? I am seeing the wheels with motor going for $25 or so on eBay and wanting to try making a three wheeled esk8 out of one.
Lol that’ll be nice but in order for the motor to drive wirelessly it would have to have some type of battery power supply built in that motor somehow to supply power for it to move. But no I haven’t seen anything like that. Again it’ll be pretty cool an invention like that
hey pat Johnson, awesome video very informative and easy to follow. I got my two to run and drive even with a kill switch at the back like you did. the only problem is that it doesnt seem to have enough power to push me up a hill like my Personal ninebot g30 or when i rode the bird 2 in seattle. do yours do that too? im using a brainpower controller but it seemed to be the same even when i changed controllers. Thanks.
Aye What’s up bro ! Ok so what you need for that is simply a controller with more amps,amps = Current which equals more Force/torque/up hill power.. My guess is you’re probably only running 13 amps👀. You can add a little bit of Solder to the shunt but I wouldn’t go overboard with it because then you can blow your Mosfet/s by doing that you lower the resistance which gives you more current.. Or look for a controller that is 36 V and rated like 20 amps or higher Take your measurements, make sure your controller fits in the housing.
There is no speed limiter on these controllers alone ! If you get a controller with the display unit then yes you would be able to limit your speed through the settings . No clipping necessary
hi @P&J scooter mods i folow your steps but not working. but if connect learning line, road function but if i press the hand accelerator not working. have any ideia whats wrong? thanks i like your job :)
Check your wires! Make sure nothing is pinching. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve had that issue.. make sure your soldering joints are connected.. disconnect and reconnect.. if it’s still not working at that point then I would definitely go with buying a throttle from Amazon.. and if it’s not working from there then what do you want to do is backtrack go over your work.. because at that point somethings not right.. it’ll be more than just a throttle issue
Good afternoon my friend had another question for you, so I finally got into the scooter and I cut the GPS and battery plastic carrier out. I have two red wires, two black wires, a green , a yellow and the blue wire in the video yours has yellow red black and the blue wire twist it around the bottom of them. Any ideas? Please help lol!! And as always, thank you very much because without you, this wouldn’t be possible🫡
So you don't have to buy the 30 something dollar piece from whatever website to ride the scooter? I know you need it eventually but I just want to putt around for now. Is there any way to get in touch with you directly with questions about how to do stuff? Like do you teach people if they pay you?
Just break the XT 60 connector from the -bird controller- and reuse it I don’t think it would mess anything up , you’re just going to see a big ass spark if you connect your power cables without the XT 60 connectors But I wouldn’t work on a live circuit like that. Just be careful doing it
