Lee I understand completely your points being in control of your camera. You promote manual mode and manual ISO so you can control exposure using the Histogram or Highlights shadows in the viewfinder or rear screen of the camera. I get that and don't disagree. But why are you so against Manual mode with Auto ISO, the way I look at it for BIF the most important thing that is not negotiable is the shutter speed, followed by exposure and then aperture. So I set manual mode say 1/2500- 1/3200sec f4.5 or whatever then regarding exposure I simply adjust EV till I get Highlights flashing then I lower the setting by 1/3 stop... This may translate to awkward access of buttons but I have switched functions of the +/- and ISO buttons so it is a piece of cake. So why is this bad practice in your view?
Many thanks for your very helpful and informative video. I have carried out all your recommendations on a recent Kingfisher shoot but I remain so disappointed with the focus results which are just not sharp even with a static bird. I am even doubting if my OM1 and lenses are performing correctly. If I were show you a couple of photos as examples, would you be prepared to make comment as to why you think my photos are not sharp? Many thanks Andrew
Well done & useful stuff. I find the histogram location (top Left corner) in screen makes it too hard to see to be useful as it's often over sky. Is there an option to place it elsewhere? On the OMD-EM1-III, it was midline and easier to see!
TLDR: this is someone who's photos are rather average constantly telling you how good they are and how little other people know. If you're going to devote most of your video contradicting Simon D'Entremont you'd better bring better photos than that....
agree somewhat .. my way or the highway is more than an impression... what he does works for him and that's how he makes his living... if he's talking to other professionals he's insulting.. if he's talking to amatuers, he's also insulting .. wont watch another
