Last time I participated.....1998.....I was using brass shotgun shells. I was never obsesses with the "Gotta Win at all costs" mentallity that I see coming across. There were some,even back then, who had it. BARE minimal clothing/gear;expensive/tuned guns; light loads to mitigate recoil; yadda, yadda....Gotta WIN!
I like winnin’… but it’s never been the main thing for me. I mean, I play seriously and compete to win in my category - but I also like the historical aspect of the sport and shootin’ authentic gear and loads. Some folks play the game differently and just wanna hit the steel as fast as they can 🤷♂️ I tried those brass shotgun shells for a while, it’s pretty darn difficult to own and load enough of ‘em for the volume that I shoot.
I load black powder shotgun shells exactly the same way. Except I use BlackMZ, less of a charge, a different wad, 1 oz shot, trim hulls to 2.5", paper top card and roll crimp. I think people looking into loading black powder shotgun shells are confused by the lack of published loading data like available for smokeless.
Thank you for the informative information on black powder loads and your recipe for your load. Right now I'm preparing to restore in 1892 CG bonehill shotgun that was given to me for free it needs a tremendous amount of work and it's going to be featured on my RU-vid channel.
I am currently reconditioning a MEC Versa-Mec. The store bought rounds or simply kicking the daylights out of me. I wish I could work the shot gun as fast as you. You're GOOD!!
Good thing he knows the source. I bought a bunch of once fired gun club hulls from an online retailer and some were obviously exposed to water as they began rusting shortly after I loaded them, and since I was loading for storage rounds, I unloaded them all and bought new hulls.
just to be contrary i found a load of paper hulls and load with fiber and paper wads closed with a roll crimp. Not a fast operation to load but fun. And very "Period correct" for what that is worth.
I’ve got more BP loading videos coming (much as RU-vid detests them)! Really happy to have you as a subscriber on what sometimes feels like the slowest growing channel on RU-vid! - Jed 🤠
Thanks for sharing how you load up BP 12g shells. I have the same loader, but haven't loaded many shells as us new-fangled smokeless shooters have loaded shells retally available at a reasonable price. This was the info side of infotainment, and I really appreciate it!
The goal, the hope and the dream, for this year is to do more on the INFO side of Infotainment. I want to do more “how to’s” and “reviews”, maybe even some vlogging. Basically I’m trying to step up my game to make this channel the best that it can be (always the goal). But, I often find myself in an uphill battle with RU-vid in regards to what they find appropriate for their platform and what the deem “appropriate for all advertisers”. Thanks for the feedback. I hope I explained and edited this episode in a way that made loading BP shells understandable for you.
thanks for the info, we were wondering about some black powder loads for shot guns. Melissa and I are getting into cowboy action shooting. she is excited to use her old skill making clothes. and i get to break out and reload new loads.
Great Video Jed i!! I’ve never seen it done before so was cool to see how all those empty shells Ive given away to Pards gets back out on the range! Thanks
Oh YES! And thank you for your contribution to our cause!! 🤠 Kook and I typically only get one use out of a shell (often times the Black Powder crystallizes the plastic and makes ‘em unusable a 2nd time). Glad ya enjoyed this episode and I sure do appreciate the comment! See ya soon pard!!
Here lately with components hard to find I've been thinking about black powder for slug and buckshot 12ga loads to save smokeless for my single actions-which are far more difficult to detail clean than pump shotguns. Your loads are easy with readily available components-other than primers and powder. Good vidio and action scenes.
I use a slightly lighter load in the WW AAs or Remington cases: 50 gr vol of anything that makes smoke with a white AA wad under 7/8oz shot. As long as the gun has chokes you don't need much shot so in essence I'm using a 20 ga. To avoid surprises I take a black Sharpie and blacken the primers on all BP loaded ammo. That way when years later you find that shotshell rolling around under the pickup seat and decide to shoot it at a tin can there's no surprise BOOM and smoke (and a cleanup needed).
Great info! I just bought brass shells for my sxs hammer 12 ga. First time reloading is about to happen. I like your new machine. Is it worth getting over the Lee?
*Thank You for sharing you favorite wad, powder, shell and charge weight and volume. I just might load up a few as a novelty, and for limited use at the practice range.*
Wow, this is awesome! I am so glad I found your videos, it has literally stoked my flame into getting back into the game! I am even thinking seriously af converting to BP! I have lots of primers, now I need some 209s! LOL
Wait a minute... did you say you have "lots of primers"?! 😲 Those a pretty scarce right now. At any rate, glad you're thinking about getting back in to the game! ~Jed 🤠
@@bchboy1206 - Well, that is something else we can look forward to changing in the New Year. Here’s hoping we have lots of primers coming to market soon.
Lots of folks prefer the fiber wads. I started this way, with the plastic, so I just keep doing what works for me. Other folks are quite successful with the fiber wad method too. -Jed 🤠
Ain’t that the truth! This primer shortage has got me thinkin’ we need a “Nerf Cowboy” category in this sport! Nerf darts are still pretty dart easy to come by. -Jed 🤠
This is like my 5th time watching this video, I'm getting ready to reload some 12ga with BP... I'm trying to get all info I can...I plan on going about it I a different manner, a SHTF style of reloading. I'd like to literally rebuild the complete round, with the assumption nothing is available. Rebuild the primers, make the BP, build up a cushion, make a paper (construction paper) wad, measure out an ounce of shot...can't find standard shot? In SHTF, bicycles have PLENTY of standard sizes ball bearings. BB's can be found abundantly and cheaply. It's more of a hobby, and a test and trial. Definitely intriguing. Always felt a shotgun is the #1 firearm to own in a shtf/survival scenario. And being able to keep it fed is key
Enjoyed that video,it's interesting to see that you're using a plastic wad when others say that it would melt and cause problems in the bore. I would like to get a feed back on your experience ...and how well the inside of the bore holds up to the black powder.. does it really damage the bore if cleaned well?
No problem using plastic wads, I’ve been doing it this way for decades. Here is an older video showing my cleaning method: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UPzM5ZUkFHA.html Bore comes out clean and shiny!
I don’t have a lot of the details, because I send my shotguns out for work. My Stoger was done by General Lee Goode and my Browning BSS, which is featured in the video I will link below, was done by Ol’ #4. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2n4TIZ580u0.html Hope that info helps. ~Jed 🤠
Very detailed and well presented, without any extraneous hoopla. The MEC is a great machine, eith which I have loaded 1000s of Skeet rounds. I'd like to add BP to my CAS game, but was a little intimdated in loading BP, especially for SG. Good to know you can use modern components. You may want to address the topic of powder charging BP cases for the uninitiated, i.e., why not, and how, or if could you use auto powder drop (without an explosion), volume vs weight, etc. Also, what is the best BP books, like Venturino's. Red Desert Drifter/NC.
Thanks Red Desert Drifter. I’m workin’ on making more loading videos that will hopefully address some of the topics you mentioned. I just have to be careful about what I say and what specific information I give because I had one loading video removed by RU-vid... so, I tend to tread very cautiously now... - Jed 🤠
Well Pard, your video's just keep getting better. Good info but I did miss how much shot you were using. I think I heard 1 1/8th oz of shot. Is that correct? Keep up the good work! Bordello
Howdy Bordello, thanks for the comment and compliment! And, yes, you did hear correctly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mXHpMoBQceY.htmlm20s
Thanks for the great video. Just to make your life easier PLEASE get a loading block from Precision Reloading PRST5012. It will keep the shell from falling over and spilling black powder all over. I just know that has never happened to you:). Also when you do the black powder cleaning , use baby wipes like Wet Ones. You cut them in strips and clean like you would a cleaning patch. Use Ballistol in the bores and Eezox for the outside. Thanks also for using REAL Black Powder. Not too many of us left using the REAL DEAL just like it was in the OLD WEST . Love your videos.
Yes, loading blocks! Don't want to play dominoes. Also, I understand that to prevent fouling/corrosion from BP, you shoud degrease guns of petro lubes and only use Ballistol from then on. Will try baby wipes. IMO, the 45 Colt should only be loaded with BP for CAS, as light smokeless loads cause blow-back ( hence, the invention of the 45 Cowboy Special). RDD
Typically only once. The heat from my Black Powder loads tends to crystallize the plastic of the shell, creating a rough surface on the exterior. I don’t trust these shells to easily shuck from my shotgun. I used to sort through my shells and salvage the ones that weren’t crystallized but it really wasn’t an efficient use of my time.
I know its been a long time since you posted this. In post covid with difficulty finding components I have to ask about the air gap of the red wad. Obviously safe but in revolvers there isn't supposed to be any air between powder and bullet. As I load buckshot for fun and can find blackpowder sometimes I thought I'd give it a try in my modern pump guns. Your thoughts on air space with the red wad?
When loading black powder you shouldn’t have any air space between the powder and the projectile. There is no air space between the powder and the projectile in these 12 gauge loads. I hope that explanation makes sense… ~Jed
Hi Jed! Just had a quick question, I noticed at 5:38 the person was loading the shells into the 1887 one-by-one instead of using the ammo tube. Is it not safe to load these black powder shells into the ammo tube? Sorry for asking I plan on buying an 1887 and didn't want to take any risks ha ha Great video!
It’s perfectly safe to load ‘em up. In the sport of “Cowboy Action Shooting” the rules only allow putting 2 round in a shotgun (this puts all shotguns on a more or less level playing field; double barrels, pumps and levers). So, some folks will load two at a time on their ‘87 and some are more comfortable loading only 1 (same with the 1897 pump action shotguns). Hope the info helps.
Awesome video! Thank you for the demo. Are those lever action shotguns worthwhile? I saw one at the gunstore, but the clerk told me it's black powder only
They are worthwhile. I know a lotta folks that shoot ‘em. And, the new ones will work just fine for modern smokeless ammo! -Jed (catching up on some old comments I just found! Never got notified about ‘em 🤷♂️)
Jedi, I thought of another couple of questions. I see in this video you're loading modern plastic hulls with plastic wads, but have you ever loaded paper hulls with more traditional over powder cards, cushion wads and overshot cards? If so, and one is loading 12ga hulls, do you order 12ga over powder cards, cushion wads and overshot cards or do you have to use ones that are 1 or 2ga smaller; say 13 or 14ga? How does one know or is it all an experiment?
Howdy ZigZag, no I've never used paper hulls. I experimented, years ago, with Brass Hulls with cushions, wads and overshot cards... but it's been so long I can't recall what I was using. I would think a Google search, or perhaps even a question posted on the SASS Wire (although they can't give specific loading data there) would get you a good starting point.
Yes, absolutely; let those barrels soak with a little Ballistol mix (water and Ballistol). I go over the method here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UPzM5ZUkFHA.html Hope that helps! Some times you can pull that plastic out in one long piece like a snake skin. ~Jed 🤠
Hey Jed, thanks for this video, i reloaded 30 once fired shells this exact way on my lee load all and they worked great. But holy 💩 was my barrel hard to clean after compared to my black powder rifles and pistols. I gotta figure out how to get a lubricated wad in there some how to help with the fowling. My question, a few shells had a few tiny holes the about size of my shot in shells and i guess those can’t be used anymore after one loading. Reading around on forums I’ve seen people say the AA’s changed in the last couple years and are different and cheaper. Are your hulls older or newer and have you experienced this after one loading? I used the same wads, 2f goex and 1 1/8oz of 7 1/2 lead shot. Just looking for some clarity as you have more experience doing it this way than me. Only other bp i reload in 45 colt and 45-70. Still learning every day. Maybe the shells are only good for one loading with blackpowder? Have a good day!
The secret to cleaning that barrel is spray it with whatever cleaner you’re using (even water works great) and let it soak. Leave it moist while you clean your other guns and it will clean-up easy with one pull of a bore snake (most of the time)! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UPzM5ZUkFHA.html (
@@JEDiTV i will check out the cleaning episode. And yes I’ve noticed that works great on Cimarron/uberti 1866, and revolvers. I just spray some g96 clp in there and usually a bore snake gets most of it, whatever it misses a copper brush usually gets and then a few lubed patches to make the bore shine. I’m in my 20’s so still always learning and willing to listen.
Standard length shells. I’ve got a few older videos on the channel showing me running it - I used to use it quite a bit. It’s one of the first ones imported by Coyote Cap, it’s tuned up with the “drop two loading system”. But, it takes a LOT of practice to get it to work and I am much (much) faster with a double barrel.
@JEDiTV I just acquired an original Winchester 1887 12 ga and want to load black powder for that. From what I've read, 12 ga shells at that time were offered in 2⅜" & 2½" Lengths, and that is what it is designed to feed. I also have one of the Chinese PW87s, and those are notoriously poor at cycling and ejecting 2¾" standard shells, particularly the Star crimped plastic variety. I'm considering making mine in 2⅜" roll crimped plastic with a shot card on the face, or just using the brass shells. Do you have any tips or recommendations? And Thanks for the replies.
@fhorst41 - I haven’t had any trouble with mine cycling or ejecting the 2 3/4” shells. I have also read that the originals prefer the shorter shells. I’d go the direction you are with roll crimp and shot card. I would avoid the heavier brass shells as they may prove difficult to eject in an older gun (regardless of whether they were made for that type of shell it is still going to put extra, and unnecessary, wear on the carrier. Hope that helps.
Thanks for sharing. Two questions, I also have the Lee Load All, you didn't like it ? How can I get the shell checker ? PS: Love the old style glass gun cabinet :-)
Nick, that Lee Load All was a great machine! It’s been years since I used one, the MEC is just faster. But, they are super simple to use, don’t take up a lot of space and are very affordable. The Case Gauge Checker is available through UniqueTek.com (If ya order one please tell ‘em JED iTV sent you! The more folks that know about what we do on this show the better!). That gun cabinet was custom, hand-made, for me by a dear friend back in the late 80’s. It’s all oak serves me well. Of course I outgrew it years ago so I have other, more secure, safes for the overflow. 🤠 I usually film with the doors opened on my case as my studio lights often reflect off the glass. I was able to get the light angle set in such a way that it was not a problem this time. Although I did pick up some interesting reflections off the other wall...
01:03 Is Purgatory Smith using a vintage Winchester 1893? If so: does he experience any problems due to there not being an ejection port flag yet (later introduced in the smokeless 1897)? EDIT: nvm, you answered my question at 05:30
When shooting Black powder 12 ga. Side by side does the residue get all in the trigger mechanism and have to be all stripped down thanks love your videos
Thank you for the awesome video. I want to get into cowboys shooting so love your video I want to do frontier cartridge so my question is. I have two pietta remington new model army sheriff can I shoot them as they are or can I use conversion cylinder if that’s not a option do I need new revolver?
Absolutely shoot ‘em “as is”. Those are great guns, I used to shoot a pair. In fact, I recently purchased one... but that’s a story for a future episode of this show. Conversion cylinders are nice, but you can start by just shootin’ ‘em in their Cap N Ball form. You might look into getting some after market nipples for your cylinders though. I’ve found that the caps often pop off the factory nipples. In fact, I think that happens to my pard, Lead Hammer, on my Plainsmen episode of JED iTV. I’ll find it a post a link here for you... In the meantime, contact the folks at Desperado Cowboy Bullets, tell ‘em I sent you and let ‘em know what you are looking for (Slix Shot Nipples) and they should be able to help you out.
Here is the video I was referencing: The PLAINSMAN Cowboy Action Shooting Side Match ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D41vRh0X1qc.html Enjoy!
Great video, I have a question for you, senses black powder is corrosif, when you use pump or level action, Do you have to take the gun completely apart to clean it?
Howdy Alexandre, first off I apologize for the delay in responding. I found a bunch of really old comments today that I never got notified on. To answer your question, no, not every time. I haven't found "blow back" to be a problem in pump or lever action shotguns. So, yes, a disassembly and deep clean is needed occasionally but I haven't found it to be any more often than one might do on a "smokeless gun". ~Jed 🤠
I typically only use ‘em once. The heat from the black powder tends to crystallize the plastic in about 9 out of 10 shells. I used to sort through ‘em and pick out the ones that were reusable but I don’t do that so much anymore.
Some great info there Jedi. One question though. In all my research so far plastic funnels are a big No No due to static build-up and possible sparks. Do you do anything special to avoid this? Use a special type of funnel? Or has it just never been an issue?
Good question. I don’t do any cleaning of the hulls. If there were obvious issues, BP residue or mud or dirt on/in them I would rinse them out and leave the to dry thoroughly, that’s about it. But, typically that is not necessary. I haven’t run into issues with the hulls I’ve been getting. So, just give ‘em an inspection prior to loading them, if they look clean you’re good to go. ~Jed 🤠
Good question. I found that the brass shells don’t eject all that well (quickly) from a side-by-side. You’d think the weight would help them stay rigid and slip right out but that isn’t the case. I find the brass swells quickly from the heat of the Black Powder and they swell. As for a ‘97, I’m no expert with them but I’d think that the weight of the brass cases would not be good on the, already weak and often fragile, extract on the ‘97. That combined with the longer, more difficult, reloading process would steer me towards using and staying with plastic hulls. Hope that info helps! - Jed 🤠
@@JEDiTV Thank you for that, I'm actually in school to be a gunsmith and paid $250 for it as a polish and blue/stock refinish project. Now after roughly 80 hours of work all of the rust and pitting is gone it is really a beautiful old gun, and looking really good for something made in 1906.
When shooting out of your double bar does the black powder residue get into the trigger springs and have to be torn down and cleaned with soap and water just like the barrel thanks
I've heard of plastic shells having problems with the black powder burning pinholes in the shell rendering them useless after one or two uses. Have you had this issue?
I have had them crystallize the top of the shell a bit. In other words the plastic does get hot enough to soften it… I have seen pinholes though. I try to get once fired smokeless hulls to reload but I can reload the BP ones. I typically just weed through ‘em and those that have their surfaces roughed up too much I toss. -Jed
Can you use a shot card then fiber wads shot and another card then star crimp with bp loads instead of plastic wads Worried about the plastic wads melting how do you feel about it
I thought plastic wads melted in bored with black powder... I use to use them... After few firings...a layer of melted plastic forms and actually creates bore restrictions. Gun would kick harder after each round....when i cleaned...a huge stretch if plastic residue came out like tape...i switched to fiber wads.
I’ve been using them for 20+ years. Yep, the plastic does melt in the barrel but certainly not enough to create a obstruction. It’s just a coating in the barrel. Cleans up pretty quickly, sometimes in one long piece, with a bore snake.
@@JEDiTVI used this recipe for the first time this weekend and had a blast. My main complaint is the amount of plastic fouling it created. It was a huge pain to get the barrels clean. Or maybe my cleaning method is wrong 😂 Have you experimented with other methods? Different wads or shot cards?
I’m glad the recipe worked out for you @@fatcake328 As for cleaning try my method here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UPzM5ZUkFHA.htmlsi=pn0VYr7w8SrEScVB It’s an older video but the method works and it’s still what I use today.
I have a ton of Grey Win AA , is there a difference to the red? does it matter which primer you use? can I load other shot as well? (like buck) and is it true if you use an over powder card , the plastic wad won't melt in your barrel?! TY 🤠🐈
The Grey AA hulls should work the same, I’ve loaded ‘em before and I don’t recall any issues. As long as it’s a 209 primer, it doesn’t matter what brand. I haven’t experimented with buck so I won’t advise ya there 😉 And, I’ve also never messed with an over powder card. I have some that were given to me years ago so maybe (maybe) someday I’ll experiment with ‘em. ~Jed 🤠
@@JEDiTV TY Jed, right now due to shortages I have a mix of primers (had to get what I could get) same with the hulls but got a good deal on them, I would assume if the weight of the shot load is the same , loading buck should be ok but will ask the powder people , Cheers mate!
Thanks Jed!! I ended up with a 44-40 rifle that is my BP go to. You’ve got my whole setup covered! My sweet wife says I smile so big when I shoot BP it’s like a little kid at Christmas every time. I’m pretty sure that’s how it’s supposed to be.
I recently purchased an early production Winchester 1887 12g Lever Action, I live in California where "black powder" is taboo. What can I use to load an authentic brass shell?
I’ve never done it. We can’t use anything other than lead shot (size 7-9) in competition. But I don’t see why you couldn’t and I’m sure there is loading data out there for that. ~Jed 🤠
Well, you can inspect the ones used with Black Powder and, if they’re still good (not melted/crystallized plastic) then you can clean ‘em and load ‘em again. I found that, since I had a pretty good supply of ‘em through Purgatory and Line Century, it really wasn’t worth my time/effort to sift through the BP ones to find those worth using again. ~Jed 🤠
I am not a big fan of 20 gauge. But, I have loaded for it (that’s what Miss Harley shoots). I use 2.2 cc’s of FFG Black Powder and a white Winchester wad with 3.4 cc’s of 7-8 shot on top.
@@JEDiTV ok great thanks I loaded some 12 ga. Using your recipe love them. Not a big 20 ga. Fan here either but just thought I would give it a try thanks and love the videos 👍👍👍👍
@@JEDiTV thanks very much. ...I am inspired by the video anyway today I'm heading down to buy a Stevens 301 single shot shotgun..,after all the research iv done I believe it's foolish not to have one
Another down. My 12 gauge MEC reloading experience was dismal. I had the shot rolling down the barrel when I pointed the gun downwards. Stars would unfold after sitting in the box for a period of time. I'll just stick with buying shot fun for a while. Fortunecookie45LC has shown us a roll crimper tool that I will get if I ever do shotgun shells again. Here he is. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mwKq70-syss.html
Hi! I just got done firing the last six shells i reloaded. Winchester universal 8 shells I believe, red low brass ones. I currently only have a field reloading kit from the x-ring (Your hands are the press). I reloaded with 209 primers (I ran out but I have some prime-all mix from sharpshooter for reloading them later). I used 100 grains of pyrodex RS, folded cotton cloth under shot wadding, 9 pellets of 00 buck shot, and straight cotton over shot wadding. They fire with a kick, but the shot spreads wide and fast, making the range very short. I imagine that'd be great for bird or bb, or small game shot, but am I using too much powder for 00 buck??? I made that recipe from a few online sources as I don't have a manual for reloading yet. It's gotta be too much powder making the shot spread so fast. Oh, I use a NEF break action 12 gauge for the black powder shells. I fired at a steal drum and some pellets penetrated it, but most just left dents. So now I'm confused at the power of black powder with 00 buckshot. Should I try smaller loads of powder to tighten up the spread? I still have alot to aquire still so I don't have plastic wads or over shot cards. Mainly because the field reloading kit requires more cushion in the over shot wad to crimp even halfway properly. Not to mention, this kit was designed for SHTF scenarios so plastic wads and other premade items aren't present. I'll have to use things like cloth and paper for that.
I don’t load Buckshot so I can’t speak to your load with anything other than a general knowledge of reloading. That being said, I would guess that that powder charge is too hot. Hopefully someone with more experience with this type of load can come on and educate us both with an answer to your question. -Jed 🤠
@@JEDiTV Also, i got the buckshot mold because the smaller shots require a dripping apparatus and look way too expensive for me. I suppose I could make like a wire mold or something and cut the shot myself. Not sure how well that'd pattern though. Lead is soft so it shouldn't need heat to draw into wire on a wire drawing rack.
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