Let me give you a simple guideline. Regardless of the time and occasion, if you know you're a clumsy eater or drinker, don't wear a white or cream jacket.
My Father was a executive with IBM we spent summers on the french Riviera back in the 70's My Father always precise dressed...told me White Tuxedo for the summer ..black for everytime else. Though he wore black pants with the white tux and black bowtie. After he passed away I came across his black jacket with tails......
The formality ranking for evening formalwear: -white tie; -a tuxedo with a starched, wing-tip collar and white-tie waistcoat, which is a vintage look that bridges the gap between black and white tie a bit; -the three-piece tuxedo; -the double-breasted tuxedo; -the two-piece tuxedo, which isn't a traditional option but is near universally accepted today; -the velvet dinner jacket; -the black-tie smoking jacket with frog closures; -the ivory dinner jacket. The white dinner jacket is traditionally summertime attire. It can be worn with a boater hat during the straw season. It's more casual than other forms of formalwear, so keep this in mind. Ash mentions old menswear rules; in the past, the white dinner jacket was never worn in the city. Today, it can be worn in any city that gets hot. I disagree with Ash about the server thing. Yes, the ivory dinner jacket is often considered livery, but as somebody who's been to multiple black-tie events, the servers do not want to be mistaken for guests, and so they're more likely to wear something like a necktie and waistcoat-no jacket. It's been important throughout history and still is today that staff are distinguishable from guests. GQ says that white tie can be worn for a black-tie event, but not vice versa. I agree (save for something like a wedding in which the groom must be honored)! Women get to be creative with their outfits, and we live in the twenty-first century, so break out the tailcoats if you feel like it.
White dinner jackets were made popular in the 1930s. I have not seen them often in the last 50 years. Summer during the day or a Cruise Ship formal dinner. I might welcome them returning. Reminds of of days long ago.
Absolutely appropriate if you are a travelling adventure-archaeologist named Dr. Henry Jones Jr. - you might wear it in a spiffy Hong-Kong nightclub, though it might involve getting poisoned by Chinese mobsters or warlord-henchmen...😂 Best regards Raoul G. Kunz
Ash myself I own both Dinner Jacket to always be prepared for any events that may occur especially as a sartorial well Dressed Gentleman of the old money dress code
Day time events. DON’T wear evening wear (dinner jacket black or white or tailcoat). Formal day wear ➡️ morning dress, stroller, longe suit, blazer, sports jacket.
Sadly I never really have an occasion for a dinner jacket usually. I do enjoy dressing up on Christmas Day, I wear a very nice velvet blue jacket … and I’m sorry to say a festive bow tie, but it’s a classy bow tie not cheesy/novelty. Id love to attend a proper black tie event to be able to get a ‘proper’ dinner jacket
I personally have a black dinner jacket with velvet accents and side tabs - I had considered going with a linen (ideally) white one for summer, and still do, though there's rarely anything in the summer I might have to appear in a dinner jacket... so... it's on the list... I preferably wear it with one of two (positively huge) boutonnières, both chrysanthemum blossoms in red or white. And always with a cummerbund - without a second layer I feel naked.🤣 Actually black tie is *very* rarely required in Germany anyway any white tie is positively dead... I mean *I,* nutcase that I am, have a white tie ensemble but apparently you can even go to bloody (pardon the expression) Bayreuth and see The Ring in a crappy black two piece business suit... **pointedly looking into the direction of my in-laws** Oh and while no one today ever wears hats today I own a vintage (but in a "as new" condition, never worn before and of-so-much-more refined than my modern Homburgs) 1924 black Homburg to be worn with dinner jacket and its really useful, though of course it will have to be stored so hopefully there's a staffed wardrobe... Best regards Raoul G. Kunz
Having worn both regularly for many years, in the correct locations😊, but being of a certain vintage, the term 'Tuxedo' still grips! It's DJ or Dinner suit for me. Otherwise, my dear chap, you are spot on.😊
I should have seen this video 30 years ago. Is a tailored suit jacket suitable to be used as a dinner jacket? When is a Smoking Jacket appropriate ? I own a snow white linen sports jacket. Terribly impractical as it shows the faintest stain ! Stunning Velvet jacket Ash
As a man born into the working class who taught high school for thirty years, I'm sorry to say that I have never had the occasion, outside of being part of a wedding party, to attend any occasion that calls for black tie. James Bond is ubiquitously depicted wearing a tuxedo because that signals his membership in an elite class of wealthy and powerful people. -Well, at least he's the hired gun for wealthy and powerful people. Your discussion of how to wear a dinner jacket, and how not to wear one, is of course spot-on. -And you look smashing in both black and white tuxedos. The coloured pocket square with the white dinner jacket is slightly daring...but looks great, in my opinion.
Only speaking for myself here but I am super traditional with DJ's. On occasions, I can be found in my DJ and also at less so, at times in my white tie and tailcoat. There is something quite magic in the hight of formal evening wear.
You are spot of regarding the white tuxedo or dinner wear. When I saw you in your white dinner wear outfit I thought “something is missing”, and then it struck me as you mentioned common amongst staff, “OH, a tray filled with glasses of champagne! 🥂. “
Good morning Ash and the assembled Chappage. Evening wear🤔 For me, historically, Mess Dress. I do own a black DB 2 piece, I have not yet had the opportunity to wear it in "Anger". I have been seeking a white jacket, in the style of Dr Jones whilst patronising Club Obi Wan. That style is not easy to come by, sadly. I shall continue my search. Excellent start to my Saturday. 🫡
Jeeves would have disapproved profoundly of a white dinner jacket; he would have found a way to force Bertie Wooster to ditch it. And Jeeves was NEVER wrong. I shudder to think what he would have made of the word "tuxedo" - his shudders would have set off an earthquake.
Hello Ash, what if it was my own wedding? Would it be appropriate if I took the liberty and went for a white dinner jacket myself in the middle of August?
Wearing a dinner jacket/tuxedo for a daytime wedding seems to be primarily a US custom. Think of Connie Corleone's wedding at the start of The Godfather. British daytime weddings (of a certain type) tend to go with a Morning Suit. An item of dress rare, if not completely unknown, in the United States. Personally, a white dinner jacket is only going to be worn for an evening event in very warm conditions. Think a formal dinner on a cruise or at a tropical resort. Climate change notwithstanding, I'd struggle to imagine ever wearing one in England. At a charity ball in Palm Beach, Florida? Maybe.
I have worn my off white tux jacket to formal occasions in the Middle East and SE Asia. Very comfortable, and nobody confused for a waiter. In the U.S., I wear my black jacket. Both always with classic accessories and medals to a military ball.
The British custom on medals is nice, but not done in the US. Former military personnel do not wear their miniatures on the lapel. The only exception is the Medal of Honor.
@@michaelblazin4093 Actually, veterans are authorized to wear the miniatures of their medals at appropriate formal military functions such as the U.S. Marine Corps Birthday Ball each November.
@@giantskunk I did not know that. I am trying to think of other occasions. Is it any government dinner at an embassy o White House? Decoration Day/Veteran’s observance on dark suits or just military dinners? Those have to be very, very few.
@@michaelblazin4093 it has only been my experience for miniatures to be worn at a military ball. I have been to USMC and Army balls with them worn. Not everyone does it, but I have seen several veterans wearing theirs. I do not know of other functions where they would be authorized, but I agree the list would be small. Love your channel btw.
I subsequently learned that retired US service persons can wear miniatures if the event is military related. Non-retirees like myself do not have that privilege. I assume the difference results from retirees in the US still being in the service.
Having been on a few cruises they normally have at least 1 formal night , not compulsory but most people joined in. Other than that we go with a holiday dance group with mostly over seventies.they actually requested a formal night everyone happily joined in .
Hello, Ash. Sorry for asking but would you recommend a chore coat or a safari jacket/safari overshirt for summer? I don’t know why but I can only image chore coats in cotton and imo even a safari jacket in linen is more formal or at least more elegant. What would you recommend? Thanks in advance!
Take a look through the catalogue at AndSons website. I am besotted with their Carver chore jacket and have worn it religiously for the last few months.
- No mention of the 6 PM rule. I learned no dinner jacket before 6. The US used to have a dinner suit brand called After 6. - The US term is also semi-formal. Formal is the white tails dress. - Pocket squares are the one area where you can show some flair. Also braces/suspenders and cummerbunds. - my on-line Spanish class had a story about a gentleman that wore a white dinner jacket to a cruise party and was enraged that everyone thought that he was waiter. - I thought only Sean Connery and Roger Moore had received Royal Warrants to wear white dinner jackets. I never saw Lazenby, Dalton, or Brosnan in one. Craig - the less said the better. For the rest of us, it is a no go.
@@VanishedOne That’s funny. By his own admission, his career had some rough spots after being Bond. Wearing a white dinner suit was one of the them. I noted that Robert Vaughan wore black.
@OP: GTFOH I defy you to show me the event in the US where the invitation says ‘semi-formal’ and every male is wearing a tux. In the U.S., ‘semi formal’ means khaki chinos, loafers, and a tucked in polo shirt.
@@daniell2217 I checked Chat GPT vs. my well worn copy of Amy Vanderbilt Etiquette 1978 and found that in 2024 the old standard has slipped. My error and our loss.
@@daniell2217I’m joining you on that. The US seems to operate 2 formality levels below the equivalent in the UK and Europe. Most there don’t even know what morning dress or white tie is
This was great Ash! Very well researched and produced! You’ve helped me make up my mind and I’m going to have an off-white jacket made from a local tailor in Wilmington DE. Thank you for everything you do for me and your viewers👊
Ash. I was just thinking of this yesterday when you posted that picture on patreon. It's like you read my mind. My father was a stylish gentleman all his life and he wore a dinner jacket once or twice a year. In the 1950s he and my mother used to go to a dance venue here called the moonlight gardens. It was a semi outdoor event with live music. My father always wore a white dinner jacket. Those were the days. Very best regards Ron
Looking very dapper indeed Ash. I have never been asked to a black tie event in my life. I simply don't operate in those circles. However, in the unlikely event that I should, (I'm now seventy) do you think I would get away with hiring such an outfit, or are hired outfits so obviously naff? I ask because I balk at buying such an elegant article of clothing knowing the chance of sporting such a garment is slim to none.
Hired outfits are best avoided because they can't be tailored; they're also often of poor quality. I'd recommend looking into the secondhand tuxedo market: They actually tend to run for less than regular suits due to high supply and low demand. As Eric said, wear one to a fine dining restaurant sometimes; it's quite fun.
@@daniell2217 I wanted a JLC reverso because you can flip it to the blank side for when I get married and any other formal occasions, but it gives me another excuse to add another expensive watch to my 12 luxury watch collection. So his take on the fact that the tradition still carries is a relief lol, no watch with tux it is! Saved me $8k 👌🏽👍🏽
