Getting warm enough to get out, and start getting caught up on some milling here. Starting out with the slabs that need to be done, and we'll move on to the lumber. Like share and subscribe, and we'll see you next time around.
Congratulations to the two of you from HAMILTON, Ontario, Canada. You are quite a team and I enjoy you both working together. I have no idea how young you both are but the quantity and quality of your work is impressive. Jordan Hill
WOW Jordan. Thank you, and welcome to the mill. We do like to mill higher quality logs, and unique slabs. We just happen to be lucky enough to find them. I can tell you thatbwe are both over 55. The mill and lumber, are our gym membership.
Thank you Joseph. Sorry for the delay with our latest video. We hope to have a new one posted soon. For now, keep on watching. If you haven't subscribed, click the button, and tap the notification bell, so you get an alert when we post new videos.
Paul Murphy absolutely. I bought a stack of lumber at auction. It had some black walnut in it that was kiln dried. It was now a chocolate brown color and had lost all the natural beauty.
Thank you very much. I do have some of the fast videos, but also some of the real time videos like this one. So many people like so many different styles of videos. I like to mix it up a bit. Thank you again, and stop back any time.
I dont mind it if that's what I'm looking for. Some of it was punky as well. Holes from bugs is one thing, but when those areas are rotted as well, that's a problem. Needs to be solid.
Hello Marvin, and thank you for your question. Your are correct, usually the surface is a lot smoother than that. Thise Mark's are caused by a damaged tooth, or in this case, a few damaged teeth on the saw blade. I probably hit a small rock in the bark. If it were a nail, or larger rock, the mark would be much taller, if the blade would even cut anymore. I just sawed a black walnut log, and hit something in it. 4 or 5 of the teeth got bent sideways. Never had that happen before. Video will be coming in the future. Thank you again for your question. It was a good one.
Does that one arm reach stay accurate when cutting. I haven't seen one like that. I like all the hydraulic the saw has. Makes it a lot easier for one person. Thanks for sharing this video gene from Iowa
Hello Joseph, and welcome. Never sawed wood from an actual pecan tree, but I have done A LOT of hickory. Wood is essentially the same, and sold together. Have to run the saw slow, and keep the water flowing on the blade. It is extremely dense wood, but it is beautiful stuff. We have a bathroom vanity and medicine cabinet made from hickory/ pecan. We are glad you enjoy the show. Hope to see you back here in the comment section, in the future.
I have a huge old black walnut tree I wish would disappear. LOL Asked one wood outfit if they wanted black walnut wood ... they did, until they found out they had to cut it down. Actually, I like the tree (it's huge), but hate the darn black walnuts!!!!
NG B having someone pay you to drop a tree in your yard, clean up the mess, and haul of all the wood, is gonna be tough to do. I worked with a tree service for 10 years, and there is a lot of expensive equipment that goes into that work. Now if they can drop the tree in one piece, pull the logs they want, and leave the rest, you may have a chance of getting paid for it. There is little to nk o value in the tree. Value is added once it gets milled and dried, but every machine that touches it in the process is high dollar, and high cost to operate. If you have a tree service remove the tree, and leave the logs behind, you may be able to sell the logs, to recover a portion of the cost, but yard trees, especially black walnut, are known for metal. It's a long way, and an expensive trip to go from a tree, to finished lumber. That's the biggest reason you are having a tough time getting the tree sold.
Do you think it would be OK to Kilm dry black wallet after air drying for one year? Or do you think it would still be better to totally air dry for two years, without kilm drying
I couldn't really say one way or the other. My customers request air dry only. I dont believe they kiln dry it after it leaves here. I've built with air dried lumber with great success. Side by side, it's no comparison. Air dried looks better. At least in my eyes.
One other thing to mention is once you air dry it outside, it's best to bring it into you shop or home to acclimate to your work environment. I usually allow a couple of weeks for this. It's basically the same thing that hard wood floor installers have to do with solid hardwood flooring material. Even after that material was kiln dried.
Air dried wood is dried by stacking, and stickering, and allowing the air to slowly dry it out. Kiln dried uses heat and fans to dry wood much faster. There are pros and cons of both methods.
I was not sure, It seemed like I had heard of some doing it that way.I do no that any change from air dry natural color that walnut gives can not be any good. Something abought the natural beauty of wood, I figure it's one of those simple pleasures that the Lord has given us!
Hello Mr. Rogers : You mention that the second log is about seven feet in length. That is too short. You need to specify to your sawyer that you want the billet lengths to be a minimum of either nine or thirteen feet, and pay him extra when he does this. He will make more money, and you will make more when you sell the fine timber, as that is what furniture makers want in terms of fine hardwood length - either 8 foot minimum or 12 foot minimum.
paulrward I am my own Sawyer. I buck to what the tree will yield. These are short pieces from the upper parts of the tree. These will be used as thick, live edge slabs. I have the 12' butt logs waiting in the wings to be milled. I go for rustic, as well as FAS lumber. Cover.both markets. Minimum finished length for grade is 7', but I mill every bit I can. I may not be able to charge top money, but I get morw than firewood prices for it. Black Walnut around here doesn't last long.
We charge by the board foot for most smaller slabs. Most of our slabs are 4 to 5 a board foot. Larger ones, and certain species / figured slabs command a bit more.
@@kennethhopson7087 The different thickness would change the price, since that is part of calculating board footage. Average the slab to be 19 inches wide, and 7 feet long. Probably $85 to $110. But it would depend on what region you are in, as to what the board foot price would be.
