Hey guys, I tested out Blacktail studios N3 Hard coat finish on our island top. It was very easy to apply and increased the durability and sheen of the walnut top. Let me know if you have any questions! tanner
I know you exist now anyway! Appreciate the unbiased look at n3. If you’re interested, the hard coat can be used alone, like you did here. I usually recommend that for the lowest sheen protection. But the top coat will offer much more protection and sheen. Glad to know it’s holding up well with just the hard coat though 👊
I’m curious if Cam’s product is solvent based versus water based and the graphine content as compared to Blackforest wood companies new formulation. In Blackforests video, they specifically talk about the difference between various ceramic coatings.
I should also add, I believe in Cam’s persistent attention to detail and his effort to give his tables every chance for success so if Cam uses it, it’s most likely good enough for my customers but I’d still like to know the difference between blackforest and N3
I am an old timey wood worker. I use Tung oil for times when the furniture will be in a high traffic area. I Finished my oak dinning room table 20 years ago. I used 5 coats, a week between each coat of Tung oil (the real stuff, not the fake varnish stuff). This is what my grandfather said would work, and it worked great, sure it was a bit of a pain to apply. I have not had any problems with it in the entire time with this finish. It has weathered three kids growing up, and hot things, soda cans, multi family gatherings, it was not babied at all. It still looks great.
I've never used straight tung oil but I've heard great things about it. I'm not a fan of the Amber color that it gives everything but it's definitely tried and true
For me, the finish I use depends (mostly, due to cost). If I'm doing something with a big flat surface (like a tabletop), I have been using Rubio, and like it. For other things (such as cabinets, display cases, wooden boxes, etc), I have been using Tung Oil (real Tung Oil) and like that. I just made some outdoor furniture (which is what I'm looking into N3 Nano Finish for) and used an exterior product by Osmo... My outdoor furniture is a sofa, 2 chairs, and a coffee table (they all have a very smooth finish), made with Cedar. The sofa and chairs have big/wide/flat arm rests, and the coffee table, obviously, has a big top. None of these will be in direct rain (they are under a covered porch), but they are likely to get the occasional splash. They will also have some direct sun. I'm hoping that the Osmo will bare the brunt (it's supposed to have UV protection and is made for this kind of thing), but I want some added protection on the arm rests and table top. I'm not looking to coat the entire pieces, just the arm rests and table top... I ordered the full kit last night, so, I'll see how well it works. That's a beautiful countertop, by the way.
Really interesting video. I would love to see an honest display of your huge island after a year of use. Up till now for tabletobs I used only lacquer (applied with a brush). I love hard wax finishes but find them too weak for tabletops. It be nice to have wax and then nano even if it is pricey.
Ill have to do an update video soon, its not perfect, there are spots around the sink that need some love but aside from the sink area it has held up well.
I’m curious, are there any airflow/venting techniques you’ve found you need to use when applying the N3? I don’t have any kinda of workspace other than a front porch (far from ideal). You’re the first reviewer I’ve found who’s refinished in a living space. It looks fantastic, by the way!!!
Hi - you have the most clear build videos on the “tube“. Question: I’d like to take off bodies wax from my solid cherry slab that was finished with Odies oil some years ago. What do you recommend to take off the wax and replace it with your ceramic coating. Just the “wax off”. For the record, Odies looks warm and highlights the figure in the Cheery - BUT Durability is quite poor - constantly buffing out simple drops of water or scratches from plates. Thanks, Jeff
Hi i greatly appreciate the kind words! it means a lot to me. As far as getting your odies oil off, if it were mine i would just sand it all down to raw wood again before putting a new finish on. I put the ceramic coating over rubio and have had decent luck with durability. I will mention that it is not perfect, i still get scuffs and scratches but it does seem to be much stronger than rubio alone.
Hey! Great video i am glad you made it! I am super curios though, it's been almost a year, how is it holding up? Is there a noticeable change in the feeling or behavior of the finish, or is the same as new? Are there any damage at all? I am dying to know! (In the automotive industry nanocoats have to be applied again after a few years, hence my curiosity)
@@BuiltKnotBought Thank you very much for the quick and informative answer! Follow up: You mentioned in the video, that you already did some maintenance on your counter in the form of refinishing. With the monocoat what do you think, when will you refinish your counter? Me and my father want to build a walnut counter our self, but we still don't know whether it's a good idea. Wood counters are just so awesome though!
@@zsomborszarka2616 we love our walnut countertop and I would definitely do it again. However, you need to understand that any wood countertop is going to be much more susceptible to damage than a stone or laminate countertop. The refinishing process only took a couple hours total and I knew going into it that this would have to be a regular maintenance on the wood top. I would say with only Rubio mono code you'll probably have to refinish or touch up the countertop once a year in high traffic or wet areas and probably once every 3 years in low traffic areas
Thank you for your video! Your countertop is just stunning! I havnt Cam mention this, but do you think this would work for softwoods in outdoor furniture? Like with pine for a balcony bar table? Or is this finish only for interior furniture?
Thank you so much for the kind words. I truthfully can't answer your question. I would assume that this is for interior use only but I don't know for certain
I'm pretty sure Cam from Blacktail studios isnt a chemist in his spare time. His product is in the exact same bottle as carbon method. They were first to market and are probaly making it for him and his brand is just putting there own label on it. White labeling is very common. I have a background in large scale manufacturing.
Everyone is doing water/stain testing with this stuff, but no one is doing scuff/scratch testing that I can see.. even Cam. And there is a reason for that; it scuffs/scratches SO easily. I've tried this stuff, along with Black Forrest ceramics, on multiple tests, multiple wood species, multiple types of epoxy, applied correctly and cured for weeks sometimes months. Yet with both ceramics, you can literally just run your fingernail across it and see the scratch streak it leaves. Its not a deep scratch, but its noticeable enough to look like a deep scratch. And if that's just my fingernail, how can it stand up to daily usage? I really really want to be wrong about this, because i love the way it looks, and it does provide extra moisture protection, but these scuff marks are a deal breaker. Clients call or email thinking they are scratches and then you have to deal with that. Is anyone else seeing these issues with ceramics on wood/epoxy in general?
I have yet to find a finish that doesn't scratch. Unfortunately I don't know that there's one out there. In my opinion, I think the most durable finish I have achieved is from layering coats of oil-based polyurethane, but I don't so much love the sheen and the look of a poly finish
nano4life from greece, same nano stuff but for 10% of the price. what most people dont know is that these are extremly cheap to make, so its the golden times for these tiny bottle producers where they make many litres for a couple of bucks and then sell it in mini tiny bottles. for hundreds.
I'm about to install butcher block countertops and having been leaning towards rubio to finish them. This stuff is really appealing to me, how has it been holding up?
I have N3 ready to apply on Rubio finished walnut slab. Would LIKE to keep the sheen down to matt to satin. How many coats of the hard coat and how many of the top coat do you suggest to maintain Satin finishing or lower. thanks!!!
I would be interested in seeing what’s the difference between automotive coatings binding to clear coat vs. wood coatings binding to hard wax. I have experience with applying nano graphene’s and ISO coatings to automotive paint. The key to getting these to bind to vehicles is to clean the paint using solvents and polishing compounds and pads so it the coatings can bind to the clear coat and last for years. I would never try to apply a pro type coating to wax as it would be a wast of money and wouldn’t last. It normally takes about 10-15mm litters to complete a average vehicle and I throw the rest away because once it is opened it turns to glass. Not saying it doesn’t work as you seemed to prove it does. What I am trying to figure out is why it binds to wax.
Thank you for the video. How is the n3 coat holding up to hot plates? That is my only concern. Clients usually pay lots of money and I would hate to see a single dinner party ruin the amazing tables people have.
So far we have not had any damage to the finish from warm plates. They're are a few scratches that have formed from general use but overall it seems solid
Cam said he tested it with 150 deg water in mugs, no ring. When tested with boiling water, it left a ring, he recommends using hot pads for hot pans etc.
@@BuiltKnotBought for reference, a gloss finish is notoriously “tacky” and grips too much on the finger tips when you try to slide your hand. Do you think if you slide your finger tips on the nano, that the tackiness/grip is more than plain Rubio? Thanks!
Tanner - is this product food safe? And, I use mostly OSMO oil on my Boards and Tables - any thoughts using this product after applying OSMO oil. Greatly appreciate your candor in the video. Mike A.
I to have been trying to get an answer if this product is food safe over the last month. I have tried to contact blacktail studio by every means I can and unfortunately have never received a reply back from any email or message I send on any social media platform. While blacktail does make some amazing furniture its disheartening that I haven't been able to get any feedback from them. So if any one that has more clout than me can get any information regarding this it would be much appreciated.
@@Th3Sloan Tanner - thank you for the effort - it is greatly appreciated. Don't put any additional time/effort into my request - you've gone above and beyond. Thanks again - and continued success with your RU-vid endeavors. Mike A.
