blade vs drop away rest gary's tip of the week 

I agree with Gary, the drop always takes care is a lot of issues immediately over a blade.

Thanks Gary! Great explanation.

Wow this helped me understand the difference big time thanks !!

Good answer mate, very helpful to confirm what I wanna to do.

Great info. Miss you guys

thanks

Good tips there !!

Cheers Gary, easy to understand info 👍

Gary, please set up jimi's hamskea on his new PSE when it comes. He gets frustrated trying to tune it because his dyslexia keeps him from making adjustments in the correct direction. If you get it right for him once, it'll be good forever:)

Gary, G'day Mate. Just got a short brace height bow, PSE XPedite, 5.25 inches. Which brings its own set of problems, wrist sling contacting the rest, arrow fletchings too long, blah blah blah. So, I decided to go with a Firenock Aerorest. What is your take on this rest?

Hi Gary, I just got a Spigarelli top rest and I shoot an OK Absolute too. Can you send me pics of how you fixed the rubber string to the cable. Where did you get the pin from that goes into the rubber tube on your bow? I appreciate any help and tips you can give me.

Nothing with me "or" my bow set-up is correct. I'm shooting 350 spine carbon express arrows with crossbow tips, on an supra focus with an whisker biscuit, and an extension bar, with an truglow power dot. Yeap nothing right here but I'm having fun lol. 🏹🤠👍

I wish I had a Gary to setup my bow and to coach me

The spigarelli looks strangely installed. It seems to point up. Sure that it does want to be attached on the top cables? Then the rest would be straight horizontally.

Interesting Gary, I've seen the Spigarelli in a UK shop myself. I think I might have asked you about the difference in rests initially as I'd been using a drop-away (Rip Cord Ace Micro) and was happy enough but decided to try a blade (Spot Hogg Edge). I noticed almost immediately that even though after paper tuning and getting bullet holes with both bareshaft and fletched arrows that my groups weren't as tight with the blade, in fact my average score (FITA Compound) dropped from 275/300 to as low as 250/300 using the same arrows. Now I did alter the position of my arrow relative to the berger hole and lowered my D loop when I fitted the blade which quite possibly played a part but in the end I had no confidence in it and switched back to the drop-away which basically proves what you say about needing to be happy with your set up. One question, you mentioned the arrow flexing down to begin with, do you fletch your arrows stiff up or stiff down? I fletch stiff up which I assume would make the arrow flex down. On the subject of ease of setting up a blade/drop away, I found the drop away much easier and no guess work needed. The Rip Cord has 2 adjustment screws, elevation and windage and to set up you attach the cord to the down cable just snug, slide it down the cable until the rest is in the up position and draw the bow back, that sets the cord and all you need to do is tighten the plastic button that holds the cord to the cable, job done. With the blade I had to choose which blade to use, loosen the screws that hold the blade shaft and try to set a starting point for blade angle and windage at the same time without one or the other moving before the screws were tightened up then fine tune blade angle, windage and elevation so I think set up depends on which rest you're using, some blades might be easier and some drop away harder to set up. Thanks again for the video and if you have time what are your views on using the yokes to correct arrow flight (left/right) rather than using the arrow rest?

This is a crazy video craziest one I've heard yet from you guys rest of them I love but a blade wrist makes contact with the arrow the whole entire time That's why people worry about fletching Clarence on their play list and a cable driven following It's exactly what it says it's a cable driven your cables will stretch therefore your release are your rest will go out of time thank you And a Dang sure don't pull the arrow for nearest long as a blade are the hamster the hamski holds the arrow for about 3/4 of the time that What I use and it is limb driven the reaction of the shot be invired the limbs move a lot slower than the cable you don't have to worry About stretch in your cables pretty much the hamski's bulletproof I'm scared to use to play because I don't wanna have to worry about my 4 Fletching making contact with the blade

who is the big goofy looking fella in the background ?