www.autozone.com/autozone/part... . In the fifth installment of the AutoZone Complete Car Care - Master Cylinder Series, Bruce Bonebrake shows how to bleed the brake system. Get everything you need to do the job right at www.autozone.com
These "Old School" American Tutorials are so damn good.. All I wanted to know prior to purchasing one of these was if there was a one way check valve in the cap assembly.. This guy explained not only the bleeder assembly in detail but the entire bleed procedure in 12 minutes.. 🙌
I bought this little gadget at my AutoZone and it worked like a bloomin' CHARM! FANTASTIC! I did NOT do this "solo." I had the missus come out and press the brake pedal. I felt really sure that I was getting a good "bleed" because: 1) I could see the bubbles going through the clear hose, and 2) I had her pump the brake pedal until the brake fluid was clear. I brought an empty plastic gallon jug and funnel to the car. Each time the little bottle filled up, I dumped it into the gallon bottle. MAKE SURE YOU WATCH THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR! I had to top it off after EACH wheel. As a matter of fact, when I did the first (farthest) wheel, I refilled the reservoir "mid-bleed." Follow the directions on the video. You can do it!
This comment really pumped me up to bleed some breaks. Especially the last sentence. I dont have a missus though. Can I borrow yours, David? I'll take good care of her and return her safely to you.
Yeah. I bought same kit too but with different brand and i was able to easily bleed the brakes alone with it without partner. However, it has been 3 years i haven't done any break repairs since then so i came back to refresh my mind how to use this tool even though i know that there is that valve which need to be opened but i didn't remember all the details though. Need to change brake hose soon so i need to bleed brakes too with this tool.
Bruce Bonebrake was a mentor to myself back in the 90's, He is an automotive teacher in a school. I learned more from this man then from my father. Patience is everyghing. Dont knock this man, he shows his trade tricks none of you brainiacks could ever think of.
I have look at no less than 20 videos of the job and by far this is the best one. You didn't say the price or if the bleeder bottle is available at autozone. Thanks for sharing.
This tool worked for me. Some tips: I had another person come out and pump the pedal though for me, because I want to make sure I could snuggly press the nozzle adapter on the valve on the bleeder screw. It also helped because as they pump the pedal, I can make sure there are no leaks elsewhere at the wheel. As someone else noted, the bottle needs to just be placed somewhere ABOVE the bleeder screw to force the air out correctly. Once the line in free of air bubbles, you're good to go.
@@utkarsh12 No it's supposed to be completely empty. If I remember correctly, the design of the valve on the bottle prevents air from getting sucked back into the brake nose.
I have the EXACT SAME bleeder bottle apparatus (bought from Auto Zone mind you) and it specifically says the bottle should be at an elevation higher than the bleed valve. Your video shows it below. I'm sure it is supposed to be above the bleeder valve so that the air bubbles will go up-and-away towards the bottle.
10 years later here's a reply from a certified mechanic 😆. The importance (taught in school) is that the bleed line is going up vertically from the valve so that fluid stays in the line at the valve rather than an air bubble, otherwise the air just gets sucked back into the caliper when you let off the brakes. He had the line from the valve going up and over the rotor which allowed for that fluid retention at the valve itself. The instructions I'm sure were simplified for the broader range of mechanical know how out there - it just easier to say "put the bottle up higher than the valve" and call it a day.
Great job and explanation. I never knew there was a one man bleeder tool !!! this will be my first time ever doin this. Thank you for the specifics Sir!!!
No, the lines are not concurrent, meaning; out of the master cylinder the fluid goes into a proportioning valve. This valve in turn routes the fluid out through tubes to each individual brake. Each brake line terminates at that particular caliper or cylinder. In other words, it doesn't recirculate, thus each brake must be bled independently.
The one I got has a lot weaker magnet than I thought it would be. Granted the bottle is probably only 3 ounces, but seems like it could easily get weaker over time and fall off when it gets full.
Same here, I went in one day to borrow a OBD reader and the guy told they didn't have one but he would read my codes with his personal tester for $20. The freaking tester is only $30 on the shelf behind the counter. From then on I started going to Napa or O'reilly.
is there something specific about procedure? I heard LR to FL to RR to FR. But this video says LR to RR to FL to FR. There's nothing in my owners or service manual about that. I bled my brakes a while back when repairing some lines and I just haven't been satisfied with how good the brakes are, and I'd like to see if I missed something in fully bleeding the brakes.
The downside is you can't see if there is air still coming out of a wheel. Sometimes it takes many presses, especially if you've replaced a caliper etc. Also forget the bleed order in this video, you 100% have to go with your individual car's bleed order. If you don't have a shop manual just google forums etc.
You don't need to buy this kit, a glass jar & the right size clear tube to suit your bleeder nipple will do.Matters not if the jar is on the floor of your garage because as you pump the pedal the bubbles will disappear into the jar regardless if its above or below the nipple.Just ask an Aussie.
Ah unfortunately brake lines DO NOT run concurrent. Almost all cars now have a dual piston master cylinder, which means there are actually 2 separate lines which run in a diagonal pattern across your car. (Driver to pass-rear, pass to driver-rear). Dual piston master cylinders were implemented so that if one of your lines were to rip/fail, you would still have two wheels with braking capabilities. So the answer to your question would be no, you would only be bleeding half of your fluid. GL ^^
The magnet isn't actually strong enough to hold up the bottle and there is no check valve that only allows the air in and not back out again. It is pretty much, as ppl say, a plastic bottle and some hoses. You need to put some fluid in the bottom of the bottle and you need to have the bottle elevated above the bleeder screw .
I have always used the method of bleeding from furthers to closest order from the Master Cylinder...but i heard this is not the case if you have ABS which most vehicles do these days. So then the above method would be used except from the ABS module vs the MC... anyone ever confirm if it matters or not?
Yes it matters. In fact it says so in the video. For example some you just turn ignition on and the system does the pumping when you open a bleed valve.
okay see now ive done this but it seems to still not work. but however when the cars off the pedal is rock hard once its on though the pedal is straight to the floor. tried bleeding the master cylinder and brakes numerous times. maybe the brake booster? vaccum? help please!
It was shown for a brake system without antilock brakes. When you replace a master cylinder or let a reservoir run dry in a brake system with antilock brakes, it'll introduce air into the ABS module. Regular bleeding doesn't work because you need a specific scan tool to bleed the ABS module. Hope this helps.
It can but probably not all ABS systems are designed the same so certain procedures may need to be used. Some cars will probably have to go to a dealer for the average person that doesn't know their way around a car or doesn't know how to manually control electronics.
+Антип Петрович Just use the lid part with the check valve inside it, and replace the short outlet hose with a longer one and trail into a larger bottle or jar
When you are purging the air, you are also purging brake fluid, so yes, you may need to add brake fluid if you end up pumping quite a bit out to get all the air out. Brake fluid should probably be completely changed every 2-4 years anyway.
2 years late, but you shouldn't need to compress wheel cylinders to put a drum back on. Adjust the adjuster in some and a drum should slide on. If it doesn't you did something else out of order.
Although this instruction is useful for one type of vehicle, it is not applicable to all. Many vehicles have different bleeding sequences. So, please look up the correct bleeding sequence for the particular vehicle you may be servicing.
Good how to vid, however "only applies to brakes without ABS" vid is dated 9 years old at this point. Based on non anti-lock brakes, vid is more appropriate for the 1990's.
Your video shows a much larger tube than the kit comes with. The tubes that come with the kit are far to small to work. The tube needs to be 1/4" not 1/8". Why do they provide such a tiny tube? Are we missing something?
BEWARE: there is NO CHECK VALVE in the lid, bottle, tubes, adapters, or anywhere else. So while bleeding, every time you lift your brake pedal, some of the contaminants will go back into your caliper. This is the only feature that would make this kit worthwhile.
Hello Jaime and Paul. Do you bleed your brake system with this bottle? Does it work? I buyed this bleeder at autozone and it doesn't have a check valve like you describe.
Lol You guys tried charging me 10 dollars to use your obd2 scanner in front of your own store. I went a mile down the road to Advance Auto and asked them. They said "Of course here you are sir". With a quick exchange of my I.D for collateral which I got back as soon as I returned it. I wonder how much money you guys lose because of this. If you guys would have let me use it you would have had the money for the EGR valve I purchased lol.
That tiny bottle doesn't seem to have a big enough capacity to bleed a brake caliper or brake line. They should've designed a larger bottle for the job.
