Learn it! SAVE YOUR CASH get a reliable REDARC isolator And some cheap folding solar panels that come with a isolator and connect it direct to the battery much more universal cheap simple reliable approach
I looked up the specs for the BCDC charger in this video and it says it prioritises solar over alternator charging. So my guess is the 100w solar panel isn’t enough to keep up. I’d try and disconnect the solar and go for a drive and see how it charges assuming it will now give out its rated 25a in the bulk stage. It might take a while to go into the CV (constant voltage) aka absorption stage so you can’t judge the charger on voltage alone when in CC (constant current) stage aka bulk stage.
Mate stick to what you know Alternator has a set point voltage, battery SOC determines voltage and current output. DCDC is the same. Your battery sounds as though it is on the way out. Give it a capacity test. You don't parallel different battery chemistries if you want to maximise life of the secondary. DCDC solves this problem.
Makes total sense - a basic dcdc has no idea what the load is, all it can go off is the voltage at this point in time. Use a dcdc with shunt and some intelligents like a manager30. Ive been running Redarc dcdc’s and manager30s - both great products for the appropriate setup. Smart alternators, battery chemistry, wiring, etc - a lot more that needs to be addressed
@@fourby4adventures704 If you can mount your battery close to the alternator and run good cables a solenoid type connection is faster and simpler.While a AGM battery would prefer a higher voltage than the flooded crank battery I wouldn't loose any sleep over it. I have a DCDC in the back of my Troopy as the voltage drop would be a issue to the AGM battery I also have a second direct cable to the car so I can run the fridge directly from the car (while driving)leaves the DCDC to recharge the AGM only
Something doesn’t look right. As some have noted if the BCDC is set for solar priority then this might give the result you have. I would give Redarc a call, I have found their technical support very helpful in sorting out these types of issues.
Something certainly isn’t right that’s correct, but no settings have been changed and other times it charges at higher voltages as you can see in the video it’s even going up and down it should not happen Things should just work, simply and reliably, like when battery was charged directly from the alternator 😉🙏✌️
That’s a frustrating situation not having a charged battery. All I know is my DC-DC charger and solar regulator work flawlessly. I need them to properly charge my house battery due to needing a higher voltage than alternator voltage to fully charge it. When my house battery was dying, it would go into float very early on indicating it had very little capacity left. Best to avoid draining the house battery too far down as permanent damage will occur so I have enough solar to fully charge the battery and run the loads that consistently draw off my house battery.
Yep, i had a mean mother one that did the same. I went back to the solenoid and a cheap pwm solar. Is that the matson app, that needs the location turned on in your phone. I rang projector and yes you can leave the solar charger always connected to the aux battery with the start battery and alternator connecting when the engine is running.
Was only talking about this to my brother yesterday,and from what I understand when your driving the solar panels do absolutely nothing when the engine is running
Same BCDC1225D charging a lithium on profile. Normally charges at bulk to 95%-ish then float= all good! We noticed on a recent 5 week trip it did this most of the time but sometimes the 2nd battery would be at 80% and charging at only 4A. Tripping and resetting the circuit breakers at the start battery and the house battery (to totally cut power from/to the BCDC charger) instantly it would start charging at 24A up to 95%-ish. Battery temp and everything was fine, dunno what was going on. Actually just wrote to Redarc yesterday to ask.
Is it possible DC/DC charger is going into float due to solar input. The correlation seems to coincide possibly solar hours 9-3 whilst driving. On a side note be careful with 50amp charger ur battery im sure internally limited to 30amp charge so its ok. But if anyone has a lithium battery connected it will take 50amps combine that with having A/C headlights on ur alternator could eventually fry. These alternators are only 80amp and cannot operate at a constant 100% duty cycle.. Also the Prado Hilux alternators are not “smart alternators”. Possibly 23-24 models have changed but definitely not earlier vehicles.
That’s OK but we now have five years of real world experience on these engines with 2 DC DC chargers not doing watt alternators have done for us for decades. You might want to take a closer look at all the information because like always it’s bang on but there’s plenty of people that know better, but that’s always the case.
I run my solar panels through a separate red arc controller that way it always getting solar input through the day whereas the bcdc will only choose one input at a time
I think you’re onto something there’s a lot of people that think I’m an idiot I’m not the DC DC charger expert but I do have a real world experience here and the simple theory that the Salah is watch charging. The battery is one that is likely I think if it is the case that the regulator charger whatever chooses one or the other, then it’s made a pretty dumb decision given how flat the battery is and the engines running if that’s what it does, my information still stands, and the charger has made the wrong decision, after the battery is charged, then the Solar may take care of business and as we can see, it’s certainly not taking care of it with its current decisions 🤣🤣😉🙏✌️
@@fourby4adventures704 my 40 litre engel runs 24/7 in the back with no input from me what so ever! Solar feeds allay regardless if the motor is on or off and when the motor is on it’s getting a dribble in of current from the bcdc. Oh and sbi12 for the win tbh as far as money spent for gain and being able to link if needed
So I was curious, I was a bit of a smart arse on the other vid comment oops…anyway, a brief look at red arc spec and charging profile, definitely a safe option, relatively simple in order to not over charge a battery and maintain longevity. Gotta look at manufacturers that give u more control over a charge profile for ur needs….oh yes, I know u didn’t ask for help or suggestions etc, I’m not asking for a response 🤪
It's an industry that has boomed unfortunately, but look at the forums, groups that are full of people complaining about their DC-DC not working! I've never been a fan of putting your vehicles electrical system at risk and being stuck out whoop whoop with a cooked or flat dead battery! DCDC are terrible at solar controllers! If you get the solar right with a dedicated solar controller you don't need DC to DC!
Two fridges off that battery is an absolute nonsense,i cant quite see what size it is,looks smaller maybe 75 or 90 ah or perhaps 100....you understand you have to halve that to get usable ah,theres no way it will run two fridges,one would be a stretch for it,3amps @,12 hours running thats 36ah per friggen fridge,how often have the fridges shut off due to low battery voltage?Dont think dc charger is your issue😂
He won’t be told cause he’s an expert. I think you might be the expert on everything actually. I’ve been using these drawer, fridges, and this type and size battery for five years I know exactly what it’s capable of and how it all works. I’ve got a lot of experience using it in the real world not just a vehicle set up and going to work every day like most people.
@@fourby4adventures704If you know so much about it. Why haven’t you fixed it. Instead of making videos about how your battery system doesn’t work properly?
@@fourby4adventures704 what size is it exactly? science and us end users with experience say its impossible to run that draw effectively on a batt of 75/90/100ah,unless your in temps of near freezing and fridge compressors arent on much though i dont imagine that, being in the back of a canopy with USB stuff using power as well? As for your phone chart thingy its common for a stuffed battery to quickly show fully charged at the terminals when charging then go into float.manufactures void warranties at anything under 11.8v yours have been there done that multiple times Your asking way too much from that battery and ideally would be better as close as possible to the fridges along with the dc charger. 5 years with that set up you must have had your engine running alot,/very short stays as the panel wouldn't keep up on its own either,i simply don't believe you.
Something is not right there, and I suspect it might be how you are measuring the voltage. The battery wont be peaking like that unless is at the end of its life and I doubt that is the case. It looks like the measurements are at the end of an cable, rather than at the battery itself and if that is not the case I would be looking at the tool you are using to measure the voltage. Also, you your secondary battery is that close to your main battery, the DCDC is hardly worth the effort. DCDC is really designed to be used at the end of a long cable run where the voltage drop prevents correct charging of the battery.
@@AndyPearo they’re also to charge different battery chemistries which have different charge profiles to a standard lead acid battery. So it’s not possible to charge them correctly with an alternator and a lead acid battery in circuit so a separate isolated charging solution is required such as a DC-DC battery charger.
Lovely ep, Agms hate bulk charge, for 6 years I always struggled to get my AGMs full off the alt or dcdc or solar, I have 2 x 140 amp lithium batteries in the back of the 4wd now been in for nearly two years and just awesome compared to AGM, Lithiums love bulk charge and charge up fast, Id say you need more aux battery storage for your set up and more solar, And I run separate Solar controller and separate DCDc charger now. that way the aux battery or Batteries get power from the 4wds Alt and solar at the same time, plus you have got back up to if one dies. I recon you need around 200 amps of Lithium and 300 watts of solar to run your setup properly . I run 280 amps of lithium and 540 watts of solar its a stand alone set up, Dcdc is just back up now used in cloudy rainy weather, or smoky weather or both. I been playing with battery setups in 4wds for 37 years and done multiple trips to Cape York. and a couple on the GRR and Gulf and one to Nhulunbuy. the set up I have now is the Best so far,
I’ve got two of these batteries, one working well in this vehicle before the DC, DC charger and one in another vehicle without a DC DC charger no problem
