You have to be a professional BMW tech to work the way you do! If you are not then you are simply damn good as I know it must have taken years coupled with talent to perform that service so effortlessly!
Great job filming! I often wonder why people are inclined to use OEM stuff, when the OEM control arms and brakes were the ones that failed so early. I machined all four rotors this morning on my new-to-me '18 540i. I have a brake lathe. After machining, they were still way, way thicker than the spec. Maybe it's a snob appeal thing to not machine rotors, or shop mechanics don't want to chance a comeback, so they use only new parts, but there is a practical way to service these vehicles without breaking the bank. The rotors don't know if they are new, they only know if they are flat and parallel. Great job!
No, they failed due to having those horrible factory-issued Pirelli Runflats. I got rid of mine 1 month ago and the car is a lighter, smoother ride. Easier on those control arms.
Great video. I will do my rear brakes now although I did notice a discrepancy. The rear brakes are supposed to be backed down via the rear electric motor. Electric motor cover is supposed to come off and with a torx released and then you can use the clamp to compress the brake piston. Without doing this first you risk damaging the E-brake.
Absolutely great video again! You handled everything like you knew exactly what you were doing, are you a BMW technician? Hope you’re underpaid mechanic enjoyed the blueberry muffins! 😋
Awesome work bud. You are so thorough. I like that - probably a lot more careful as well than most mechanics. Can I pay you to do the servicing on my M760Li?
Amazing work man, you did like a professional. Next time you should stop the suspension system when you lift your car by holding the button 7 seconds to prevent any damage to the sensors.
Thank you, yes you’re right, that’s the standard procedure, but actually in my case I have to raise up the suspension first, because I’m struggle with putting a jack under the chassis, so that’s why I’m not stopping the suspension, but I never had a issue with that and even when the car is in a workshop, they usually don’t know about that procedure, unless you tell them.
&54k odo 2018 bmw 750 iXdrive Left air suspension module Right air suspension module 2 vanos solenoid's Left driver cv axle module and assembly. Air suspension compressor module $11,844 quoted. All covered underneath my warranty with 700 vanishing deposit. A extra 400 was deducted for bmw wash works which essentially cleans the interior back to factory.
Hello. I own a G11 740d xDrive air suspension vehicle. When lifting, can I lift without setting a separate air suspension jack mode? And when replacing the fuel filter, is it not necessary to crank after installing a new filter? You are very good
I bought a 2015 dec 7 series , (65 plated ) with just 29,000miles on the clock the car sitted a lot of time in the garage as the first owner was always on holiday with His caravan in spain , checked that the miles are real and everything was perfect , after 2 days after I bought the car “ chasis “ error was coming up for just 20 seconds and then it was disspaearing it kept Doing this As I was Doing 80mph and switching from sport to confort and So on … when I checked At check control it was fine and the error was showing up over there , the car has its battery changed , and doesnt present Any other problems execept this however today the car acted normally and perfect , what Could it caused the car to bring me up this error ?
Hi Martin, great video. Please can you let me know which ramp did you use? I thought my jack is sufficient to jack the car up but I failed. Seems like I need the same ramp as you. Also, do you have to lift your air suspension to get on this ramps? Thanks.
First service after 33k miles- bravo mate!!!, what's wrong with ppl this days. Not surprised that car engines, turbo's etc. last only 50k..you all listens that BS what dealers says.
@@martinandmechanic my suspension dropped twice in the last year at 120k miles. 1st the relay, & now the compressor. I guess they can't last forever. Best of luck with your channel. Its like 'm539 restorations' RU-vid channel when it started. Another ocd mechanic who does bmw's. 👍
That’s true, the air suspension doesn’t last very long. I did a research about it and I found out that usually after 100k miles it starts to fail, and an aftermarket components usually fails right after installation, so I think a genuine parts are the only way to go. And thank you, I’m glad that you like my channel.
Yes that's safe, just turn piston back with 3-pin brake piston rewind tool and you don't have to disconnect electrical handbrake, that's what repair manual from dealer says, there are some model of BMW, for example 5-series F10, where you have to disconect electrical handbrake otherwise you're not going to able rewind piston.
Hello, Martin Do you not need to grease the back side of the brake pad? (On the shims) because all other vehicles or on other brake job videos mostly apply grease but it doesnt seem to be the same on BMW's. Im just very curious and confused. Thanks!
Appreciate the video, very refreshing to see someone servicing a 7 series. Thinking about a 2016 740i with the gasoline B58 engine. Do you have any concerns or things to watch out for with these vehicles? Thanks
Thank you, I don’t have any experience with B58 petrol, but I read that they are reliable and also are used in Toyota Supra, so they should be fine. If you looking for some G11/G12 I would recommend you to find a one with the option Executive Drive Pro, you’ll get the best driving experience from that option especially from the active sway bar and watch out for any air leaks from air struts, they can develop even on low mileage 7-series.
What is difference in your country in oem and aftermarket filters and parts and they gave me discount so i choose genuine ones,since the difference is slight between oem and aftermarket.
This might be useful for you. The engine oil is said to be changed on 30 000 km ( Europe) by the manufacturer (recently the reduced to 15 or 20 k I think), BUT in the ideal conditions which means highway at 80 mph and for around 2 months time period. The oil used for B57D30... (730d, 740d, 750d) is correct to be measured by working ours not by mileage (but is more user friendly for average customer). The standard is 350 working hours in ideal conditions. Average for daily use 150-200 hours or around 7000-8000 km or 4-8 months. One more BUT specifically for 750i (4.4 l) engine oil on every 5 000 km.
I have just bought a 730d with 21k miles. I must say I’m not looking forward to the servicing costs, but then again, after watching this video, I can now see just how much work goes into it. How much do you think the work that you have just done would cost at BMW?
Don't know the price at dealer, but It's not going to be cheap, because they will use only BMW parts which are supplied anyway by other brands, like you saw in video (Lemforder, Mahle, Brembo...)
Great Video!!! For my 2019 BMW 750 I was quoted the following for service performed by BMW mechanic..Im still shopped around and was able to get the following done in () by different mechanics in my area. Front breaks: $1450 ($1,150) Rear Breaks: $1200 ($980) Arm Control: $1400 (still looking) Oil Change: $225 ($175) Rear Flex Disk: $1100 (still looking) Did not think to get roll bars changed. At what mileage should spark plugs and coils be replaced I’m hearing at 60k miles and 100k miles?!?!
When you checked the engine oil dip stick ( after oil change on level surface) it was showing the half way point between the min and max lines ( 1 litre more necessary to bring it to maximum line on dip stick) It seems, from the video, you didn’t add the extra 1 litre, if so, why?
Half litre short if in the middle, can’t speak for this guy but personally I do this so I can see the exact level as if I fill mine to the top, as the dpf throws all the crud into the oil it starts to increase your oil levels by itself, if you fill to the top, you won’t have anyway to check if the oil is now overfilled due to the dpf and overfilling can damage your car.
Find a independent shop. I have saved several thousand, I still take my car to the BMW dealership for a oil change from time to time just to have a reason to check out the inventory lol.
Hi, go on Autodoc and send them mail with parts what you need. I think you can get from them OEM parts for the cheapest price. Wait for a offer on around 35% off sale, every day the offers are changing.
Hi, I have to change my wheels and want to drive him onto the lift. Do I have to consider something about the air suspension? is there a mode for that?
Again, don't know the price at dealer, but It's not going to be cheap, because they will use only BMW parts which are supplied anyway by other brands, like you saw in video (Lemforder, Mahle, Brembo...)
Certainly I will do the video about it at one point, but simply I swapped them because of ride comfort and for extending lifespan of suspension components. Run flat tyres are just too hard. In case of a puncture, I'm carrying tyre inflation compressor kit and if tyre isn't fixable, I've got a breakdown cover.
@@martinandmechanic By chance, what tire did you purchase? I have the Mitchelin Run Flat tires and come Dec, 2022 will have to buy 4 new tires, so Im trying to decide which ones. Any advise will be greatly appreciated.
How is the ride quality with the lemforder front tension strut? I was thinking of ordering OEM but lemforder are much cheaper and do not have fluid in them. Please let me know thanks!
I think you put in the cabin filter in the wrong orientation air flow comes from front to back of your car. Your arrows of the filter show into the direction of the front. Am I right ?
Id like to know if you changed your tires from run flat to regular tires. If so, what tires did you choose and why. Also, do you now carry a spare tire in the trunk, if so what is it, is it a donut tire? Thanks Nelson
Yes I did for the regular Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S, because they're good performed. In case of a puncture, I'm carrying tyre inflation compressor kit and if tyre isn't fixable, I've got a breakdown cover.
Great video. What tools did you use to dismantle brakes? I mean what kind of bolts are used on front and rear calipers? Also for rear electronic parking brake. Thank you.
Thank you, I don’t remember exactly what tools I used, but with the standard spanner tool kit you should make it and for the rear calipers you need the brake piston rewind tool, no need to remove electronic motors.
@@martinandmechanic Thank you. For the rear brakes i was thinking abt electric parking brake,like do i need diagnostic tool to unlock the parking brake?
Actually the Brembo are OE supplier for BMW G11 sport brakes, but the brake discs were warped after maybe 1000 miles as well like those that I replaced, which were the original one. To be honest I never had good experience with the Brembo brakes.
The ride wasn't that comfort like i wanted, run flat tyres helped those bushings to worn out, also bear in mind that bushings are made from rubber, so degradation from constantly changing environment is in place like air, cold, heat, etc. Many cars through their lifetime have factory control arms and bushings but they don't have that stiffness like they were new, therefore they can't absorb hits from bumps and potholes, so you feel those hits less absorbed.
BMW LL04 oil spec is okay but I would have used the newer BMWLL17. They’re lower SAP and have less likelihood to leave deposits on turbo charger and timing chain.
I wouldn't go for BMW LL17 for a diesel engine, because BMW recommending LL17 only for a petrol engine, also in my opinion is very thin, however LL12FE can be used in diesel engines from model year 2014 in engines 14d, 16d, 18d, 20d and 30d.
@@martinandmechanic ah sorry didn’t realise you had a diesel! I use LL17 in my B48 330e. I think with the roller style cams and oil forcing two surfaces apart as long as there’s relative movement (like surfing) there won’t be any metal to metal contact despite thin fluid.
Does the oil really run out fully if the car is on ramps like that? I don't think so and it's easy to overfill then and keep still much of the old dirty oil in it. Better on a flat surface. NIce video though!
Yes, probably tiny amount of oil will stay there, but anyway, even with the car jacked up in straight horizontal position, there will still stay some residue of oil in engine, the best way is remove oil pan and clean it.
Nice car man, wish these were affordable in my country (NL). They're to heavy and diesel so they get taxed to a level that only the insane will buy it. Never see these here.
Hi. My car's left front suspension broke. It is lowered to almost down the wheels on that front L side and it makes the front R also go quite low. The rear left is also pulled down a bit but so i think it is all caused by the front left. How much does it cost for 1 suspension on front? I once changed rear left for 1000 euro in belgium , ( used product, new was 2000) ... but i want to know if this is fair price by garagist
Hi, here in the UK is price for the rear air suspension strut similar around £2000 and for front one around £1200 and it's the genuine BMW part. With used one, there is a risk, that you never know if the part is on the end of a lifetime. How many miles your 7-series already covered?
@@martinandmechanic it is on 200000 km already (close to 124 miles). I recently got in doubt about the price i paid because i just asked 2 different garagist and they say it is 250 Euro actually?? I wonder if they assumed the 5 and 7 series have same suspension and hence gave me those suggestive prices. 2nd point, do u recommnmend using other aftermarket suspensions? I see a lot of arnot suspension and aerosus ones which are way cheaper. Oh and btw, after the left rear suspension change, the car sensors didn't get rebalanced for height etc. Maybe issue related to this?
Definitely OE or OEM air suspension strut wouldn't cost 250€ In these days even genuine parts are failing because quality is not what it used to be and with aftermarket it's even worse, but what I read about Arnott air suspension, they've got 2-years warranty (when you buy directly from them) and they even buying old air struts from G11 at the moment, because they basically remanufacturing old air strut. There are some good and bad reviews on them like everywhere. And to your last question, I think based on your question, that you didn't visit BMW service and I think you should because they can investigate the issue, some local garages they just assume what can be problem by symptoms, when the dealer got right tool for it. I never personally had a issue with air suspension but for example, after you change some air suspension components in G11 there is needed recalibration of it. I don't know if the garage what changed your air strut did that. The air suspension in G11 is very sophisticated. Sensors, wires, etc.
Bro what was wrong with ur brake disc and your control arm you said something but u didnt get it! And same with ur rear brake disc and anti roll bar? What happened to this car at 38k im really interested to know Edit: ok cool they squeak and unknown brand. But why the front ones? The disc were fine. And why the rear anti roll bar? Right so run flat tired damaged your control arms? And stuff at both sides? Front??
So first brake discs: I had to change them because I felt vibration while braking. Control arms: I explained that in one of the comments but again: The ride wasn't that comfort like i wanted, run flat tyres helped those bushings to worn out, also bear in mind that bushings are made from rubber, so degradation from constantly changing environment is in place like air, cold, heat, etc. Many cars through their lifetime have factory control arms and bushings but they don't have that stiffness like they were new, therefore they can't absorb hits from bumps and potholes, so you feel those hits less absorbed. Rear antiroll bar links: Just a precaution. Usually they go like first.
