I was getting 30FF and I have 220K miles on my '08 n54. I was hoping it would be anything but replacing the turbos. I checked the vacuum lines you said to check. One of the two that are on top of the motor in the front was cracked right were it connects to the hard plastic tube going to the vacuum cannisters. Under $10 in vacuum line and 30FF is gone! Thanks man!
I've spent like $6000 trying 2 diagnose the intermittent limp mode. I've replaced so much except the actual turbocharger. After all that they tell me it's probably a wastegate issue but I don't hear any rattling or disturbing noises. I'm @ a loss. I'm out of $ now 2 even replace the turbochargers. I'm about ready 2 trade my car 4 a horse 2 ride 2 work.
Great vid as always My 2009 N54 throws a 30ff code once in a while. I'm wondering if faulty fuel injectors could cause the problem. I have 135000 miles on the car and they are original to the car Thanks
Hi, nice video! I have just bought one and it has 30FF, I can feel that the turbos are not boosting only when the engine is hot. Do you have any clue of what could it be? I think it's wastegate issue...
Men, i love how your engine looks, very clean! 👍i have the same car E90 but is a 320i... i like to have my engine as clean and beautiful as yours!!!! Nice video once again! 😉
I’ve got the 30FF and it’s got a rough idle I can’t find anything obvious wrong with it. I had other codes but cleared them and the only one that keeps coming back is the 30FF.
Stephen Donald Definitely will be rare for charged air to make it past the PCV and into the valve train to trigger a 30ff, but anything is possible with the N54 lol
Stephen Donald the dealership told me the valve cover should be replaced after installing a new gasket, 🤔I first thought it was only extra spending, but turns out it's true without a new valve cover replacement, that leak will show up earlier than predicted.
Mcgyver B If it’s an original valve cover, then ya always good to replace the entire thing since the PCV is built into the valve cover itself. Plus it could crack later on anyways 😀
BMW Fanatic thanks for the information man, the climate season change are very tough on vehicles, I saw your new video checking for cracked cables, good video 👍the seals and gaskets are silent culprits for early leaks.
God bless you, love your tons of voice. Great video, at 7 mins into the video I wish you had mentioned which turbo is bank 1 and 2. Other then that very informative.
Be informed of the following 2 issues with this video: disconnected inlets won't have any effect on correct boosting. It will simply make the turbos get air without it being filtered by the air filters. Second: Checking waste gate play on the other turbo is not possible due to their location.
I was playing with an F22 last night in my E61 and during a small pull, one of the filters came off my dual cone intakes and I threw a P30FF. Was half a cel, not full orange but the code did reduce engine power. Very odd that the code would pop up for filterless inlet.
i tuned my girlfriends 2008 335i, Boost charger pipe cupler came off, threw a code and went into limp mode "Engine malfunction reduced power" and the OBD reader says supercharger/boost surge" or something like that, fixed the cupler and the code won't go away.. Tuned with MHD stage 2 +
Just went into limp mode. 35mph, no heavy throttle. Drove home, parked for an hour, started car with ease but still idled a little rough. No engine light on dash. I popped hood and tapped gas.. After letting off, I hear a loud whoosh from turbo side of engine on deceleration. I have an 07 335i so you know I have wastegate rattle. I checked the actuator rods, seem tight right now. I've started to pull coils and plugs. I have a couple oily diverter valves but see no cracks or any sign from the charge pipe. Vac lines look good, the furry vac lines almost look like yours, but look less wear. 93k miles on the car. Do you have any idea what this issue could be?
Sometimes it's hard to tell on those vacuum lines, but my lines were split and dry rotted. Replaced them with new lines and no further issues. Try to take a closer look.
see my 335i stays on vacuum at wot it just stays under vacuum so i traced everything down to the canister so now how would i know if its a boost leak i have no codes relating to a boost leak but my car doesn't build boost just stays under vacuum any ideas
Ok.. I clean my engine bay on a weekly basis and it's pretty clean... but damn it. Your engine bay is soooo squeaky clean! How often do you clean it and what are you using? I barely touch a hose and my hands are black.
hello good video, my car was running fine but yesterday I changed the pcv valve because I saw that it smelled burnt, I decided to put a new one take advantage and I put new spark plug and bms high flow filters, and surprise when I started the car it didn't sound the same as before it accelerated and obviously less power and it sounded something like lamineo, and the bov doesn't make the typical noise pst!. With your experience, do you think that the new pcv valve that I put in is related to the problem or was it a coincidence that when I changed all this, something was damaged? I don't know what I should do :(
I have an 08 335xi had bad injector on #3 cylinder replaced all injectors spark plugs and coils took for test drive and ran perfectly fine till i heard a loud pop noise and lost power. Notice charge pipe came off of throttle body and now is making a main bearing type of sound. And is taking longer to start too. What can be wrong please help.
2010 535i Xdrive.... the problem i'm having is i have the 30FF w/ the engine malfunction light w/ reduced engine power light/message but i have no loss of power, drives and functions just like it should. builds boost like it should. i will clear the code and it will not come back on for a couple days. trying to find a smoke machine to test the vacuum system which i can hopefully get done this week
Same car bro, it starts getting the 30FF very often now. Used to get drive train malfunction once in a while, but not this code. I’m FBO + inlets and outlets and stock charge pipe with atmospheric diverter valves since the charge pipe I bought didn’t fit. Think I should start with the vacuum lines first I guess.
I got a 30ff and a 2aaf code but it seems to idle fine drive fine I don’t hear anything noticeable and it seems to still have good power im just confused I’m assuming it’s a vacuum leak like u said I’m new to bmw so I’m rlly all just learning this stufc
I have bigger turbos and under boost I can hear louder than usual hissing under boost on the passenger side after I got my ac compressor replaced Im suspecting a loose charger pipe or somewhere near the intercooler , what do you guys think?
On my N54 I changed my turbos and whenever the car is cold it boost perfect. But later on as I’m driving and I try to build boost or even give it throttle it will sound a lot deeper then wouldn’t pull as hard. Then it will go into limp mode and will act the same even if I turn off the car. I’d wait for the car to cool down then if I drive again it will build boost. But later on same steps as I said before. I know it can’t be turbos because I checked wastegate hardly any rattle, checked the turbines they have no shaft play, so now I’m confused on what exactly is it. If it’s a boost solenoid or what. Please let me know!
@@paperchasin4053 same error as me, but mine is 2008 with very strong charge pipe that im told does not normally fail? could it just be the vacuum lines?
I have a weird problem that I can’t seem to find a solution to my ‘08 335i. About 2 days ago I changed my VCG and everything was running smooth and perfectly fine until I noticed that there was an excessive amount of oil still dropping into the 1st spark plug. After taking apart and putting it all back together yesterday I turned the car back on to check for any more oil leaks and I noticed that the turbos didn’t even turn on. I checked the codes on my car to see if I get a 30ff and there were no codes on the car. I drove the car around to see if it would give me some type of boost but I get no power from the turbos at all. Checked all the vacuum lines, all the hoses charge pipe and everything is good. Any idea of what it could be? I’ll be uploading a video on my channel so you can see what I’m talking about. Anything helps at this point lol.
Love the videos, incredibly helpful. I occasionally have the code pop up and then roughly 2 seconds later, it’s gone. The car seems to run quiet well and the code rarely comes up, so I’m really not sure what to make of the issue. I basically got the problem after installing catless downpipes and dci and turning up to map 2 on jb4. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks for quick response! I’m just waiting for my Bimmergeeks cable so I can do bef and run some logs, so hopefully should know soon! If the hijacked fuel for boost gauge is any indicator, it looks around 15-16 psi. Have a 6 speed 335is with Canadian 94 octane , no ethanol
Hey BMW Fanatic, i got the 30FE Code on my 335i (boost to high) i have jb4, FBO ... do you know that Problem? You are the only RU-vidr who makes great Videos about the N54... can you Help me please? Greetings from Bavaria:)
My car is having boost issues.. basically have no boost at all. Instead of boosting, i just get a very loud sound. Kind of sounds like a vacuum cleaner or air rushing out. If i accelerate slowly, that noise isn't there but will start once my rpm passes like 4-5k. If i go WOT from idle, that noise (vacuum cleaner/wine ) is very loud and 0 boost. My charge pipe is fine and my waste gates are fine. Any idea what it can be? I feel like something isn't connected properly.
My car goes into limp mode but I recently scanned it for codes and it ring throw any. And ideas? If turn the car off and back on limp mode will go away. It only happens when I’ve been driving for awhile as well
Just installed MHD stage 1 on my stock N54 yesterday and when I go WOT on the freeway the car will go into limo mode until I turn the car off and on. It never did this before the tune and it only happens on the freeway under sustained boost. Please help me!! What should I do?
So can my Boost lines and or Wastegate cause a intake VANOS code too? I keep going into limp mode with a 2008 535i and I am getting a Intake VANOS and Boost code and I have Replaced the VANOS 3 times now
I had 30ff. Fixed all vacuum hoses. No more code BUT I only max 8lbs boost on map5. No codes. Anybody have this problem. I cant find any boost leaks HELP!!!!!! Ps new turbos one year ago
@@BMWFanatic G'day, love your work., did you by chance end up doing a blow by blow showing us how you changed your vacuum lines across the board? i have the old 30FF issue and im told you have to lower the sub frame to get to the waste gate.. .and that sounds above my pay grade? lol
Thanks bro! I did a leak test. I hear the leak from hose from boost selonoid that go back toward passenger side by the turbo. Is that normal? Please help...
Mine does 2.9 psi but I have MHD stage 1 don’t understand why is not boosting more. My vacuum gauge says 19 but when it goes to boost psi goes only to 2.9. I am using the torque app don’t no how good is that app
How is everyone getting 30FF codes but IM NOT I make 19-20 PSI perfectly according to MHD logs but it does not feel like it at all. I even deliberately made a boost leak and all I got was boost controller deactivation 3100 error.. No 30FF.
Lol well hey great video for educating me. I have the exact same build as you but an 07 335 with 60k miles. Im about to order vrsf dps as well! Water pump failing set me back -_- looking forward to your video.
put some Bars rear main seal stopper fluid in from AutoZone. change your oil put 6qts in and and then the whole bottle of stopper fluid. it may totally fix it buy you some time, it worked for me for months then I had to put some in on my next oil change
no...,its more to do with holding or not holding pressure ,the boost solenoids do fail ,as does charge pipe,BOV is you have one and OEM Recirc valves start failing around 12psi
MEZ92 They’re there for a purpose, so I wouldn’t delete them. The vacuum coming off the pump is not fully regulated so will fluctuate. Without a canister inline the vacuum pull on the WGs can also fluctuate. I'm sure it would work but won't be an ideal situation IMHO.
