Thanks for the video! I have a 5 speed 2001 330 ci convertible with 144k. I just recently did a cooling system overhaul (expansion tank, water pump, thermostat, fan switch, upper and lower radiator hoses) after that I bleed the system added coolant but the coolant light came on and the engine goes past normal temp what did I possibly do wrong?
Dame Dash you followed the directions in this video? Did you make sure you had no more bubbles at the bleed screw? Try to rebleed the system again from cold. If this works for you then the system is doing just fine. If it still continues to overheat and you are certain you have bled it right you need to start checking other things. 1. If you are letting it get up to temp in your driveway at idle and it is overheating you need to make sure your thermostat is opening. You can check this two ways. First is to feel the upper radiator hose (it should be hot) and then feel the lower radiator hose (it also should be hot) if the lower hose is warm then you have a thermostat problem. 2. If it is overheating while cruising down the freeway you either have a thermostat problem (check it as I told you above) or you have a water pump problem. Worst case is a blown head hasket but I won't get into that. Note: you need to make sure that you aux fan (the electric fan in front of the condenser) is working. It will turn on when the temp starts to get to high. If it is not turning on at idle when the temp reaches around 205-210+ it needs to be checked. You can check it by turning on your air conditioner on the coolest setting. As soon as you turn on the a/c the fan should kick on. If it doesn't you need to check that you can spin it by hand to see if it isn't stuck. If it does turn by hand then you can potentially have a bad fan switch (located in the lower radiator hose on your car) you can test this switch by removing the connector and with the key on and the ac on use a jumper wire to jump the two pins together and the fan should turn on. If it doesn't then you have a bad switch. I sure help this helps you out sir! Thanks for the comment and have a great day!
Helping Hand Auto Repair Thanks for your suggestions! I found out that source of my car's overheating problem was the aux fan. Swapped the original out with a bear fan and my car temperature problem is long gone. Now I just have to get rid of the coolant level low light. Thanks again
Dame Dash if you know there is coolant in the expansion tank even though the light is on the dash then your coolant level sensor is probably bad. The bmw part number for that sensor is: 17137553919 That sensor is located on the bottom of the expansion tank you will see a small connector on the bottom of the expansion tank. Just rotate it and pull it out.
I had this problem with my car when I bought it recently...the sensor was disconnected at the bottom of the expansion tank as suggested here. I reconnected it and the warning disappeared.
If you ever get a chance do the coolant bleed video live. This is the best explanation I've seen, but it would be best with a live step by step. In particular about running the heater. Who knew?
Thank you so much for your informative video. I would like to point out that a lot of people that explain things like this is to Inform the public about different types of ways to cool the vehicle engine, one is the water pump and cooling fan are attached to the front of the vehicle and then you have the electrical cooling fans.
Take a note if your BMW had leaked out a bunch of fluid before doing any repairs then refilling it you may need 4 things of coolant I just used three full ones
Nice job. Thank you. I couldn't get any air out of the X5, so it looks like the thermostat is the problem. The left hose to the radiator never seems to get warm.
Everyone forgets to run the engine… right before it overflows, put the cap on and tighten…it may dribble a little…thats a good thing because you are ensuring all air is completely out of the system. Ensure no more air bubbles. Come back after it’s cool and check the level, add a little if necessary. If you feel that you may have a leak, pressure the coolant system and it should hold at 20 psi for 2 mins minimum
Ive found filling the expansion tank works better as you can see the bubbles better. Also squeeze the heater pipes going through the bulk head.With the engine running when the bleed pipe is full and there is no air you should have a small jet of water flowing back into the expansion tank. If there is air you will have no jet and the thermostat wont open causing boiling and water bubbling out of the tank causing low water level. once your happy remove excess water from the tank.
lol all you want, with the bleed screw left in you cannot possibly see if all the air is out, if you fill the tank full you can see the air its not rocket science. The correct BMW way to do it is with a vacuum pump as any air causes problems.
What happened if the pump doesn't turn on but the car doesn't overheat? I changed the resivor and thermostat. But I did the bleeding instructions as all the videos say but my pump doesn't turn on. I drove the car after i changed the stuff for about 30 minutes to my new house and it didn't overheat.
Can you do the gasket for the oil filter housing on the 3.0 2.8 e36 e46 motor used in the late 90s thru 2003? I have a z3 2.8 and a x5 3.0i both need this done and I've noticed is a common issue
Hello my friend, the check always shows me the check coolant level, although everything is correct, could the defect be from the same sensor as the bme x5 e53
Thx, its a great video and easy to understand. one question mate.Today got my car back *e46 330d after replacing the steering pump. But i think they done something with the coolant tank. Now i see low coolant warning. When the engine is off i can see it has coolant inside. But when i start the engine the coolant disappearing somewhere. is it normal? But its restore back ASAP once i switched off. i believe i need to bleed it properly myself as you explained
Gireesh Prasad trying to understand what you're asking here. When you start the car the low coolant light comes on? However when you check the reservoir it is full of coolant? Is this correct? If that is what you are asking you should check the coolant level sensor located on the bottom of the expansion tank. It is a small sensor with a small two pin connector on it.
I mean, after i get my car back from service i drive a bit. suddenly the low coolant light came on. i stopped the engine and checked the coolant reservoir and i found its normal level. But when i start the engine i noticed the coolant suck somewhere and it shows empty. When the engine is stooped its slowly filling back to reservoir and went back to normal in 10-15 secs. I am thinking now that there are some airlock inside or the mechanic didn't fill the coolant properly
Gireesh Prasad oh ok now I see what you're saying. Yes go ahead and bleed the coolant system first and then report back on the results. You need to bleed the car while it is cold.
I bought a e39 540i 2000, the thermostat sensor was not available its mean the water flow is not stopping so I change it .. and the heating house are canceled No heating.. and the car is overheating if i stop but when driving the temperature becomes normal , water pump is working fine no leaks in the system I think i didn’t bleed the system correctly.. can i do the same steps even the heating house and system is canceled?!
What do you mean bleed from the block? I'm assuming you have been listening to others telling you how to bleed bmw cooling systems? You are replacing the thermostat. Simple job on these motors. Once installed, put everything back together and follow this video. No need to "bleed the block" as honestly that is just made up.
If you bled the system and you are certain there aren’t any coolant leaks and it still overheats, you need to to pay attention to when it overheats. If it’s at idle or slow road speeds (stop lights, traffic, etc) it could be that your aux fan has failed or your fan clutch has failed. If it is at faster road speeds, could be a bad thermostat, bad water pump OR more serious engine damage such as a blown head gasket.
Liberti Villager bring it back to them. If they installed a new heater control valve (sits right under intake system) they should have bled the coolant system again. If they used a USED valve it could be broken. If they used a NEW valve, there could be something wrong with your climate control unit.
David Weber No I meant to say green coolant because that’s what was already in this car from the beginning. Customers car and I don’t mix coolants or tell them they need to switch over. It’s not necessary in their case.
David Weber No I meant to say green coolant because that’s what was already in this car from the beginning. Customers car and I don’t mix coolants or tell them they need to switch over. It’s not necessary in their case.
Im just asking. All i am saying is you do it one way and bmw says another. Im just trying to find what is right. So kick your sour attitude to the side
But I have air on full blast and the hottest it can go now today my car won't start lol I think my battery is dead though tried jumper cables but nothing
Some guy told me mabe my thermostat is shut closed I'ma see and remove my thermostat and just run it with no thermostat I'll rather it be cold than hot I also rented a machine to see were my coolant leaks from and it didn't leak my car only leaks when it's turned on ? What can be the problem bad pump ?
YehBoiFausto626 sorry just getting around to seeing this. The air shouldn’t be on full blast as stated in the video. Follow the video. Loosen the bleed screw, 1. turn the ignition to the on position DONT START THE ENGINE. 2. Climate control to full hot, fan speed on the second to lowest setting. 3. Loosen the bleed screw pretty loose. Fill the expansion tank until you get ZERO bubbles from the bleed screw. You may need to take your time here, continuing to squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses to help the air get out 4. Once the air is out, close the bleed screw and start the engine. 5. After about 1-2 mins put the expansion cap back on and tighten. 6. Let the engine idle for the next 5-10 mins while leaving the climate control fan at the same position. 7. Bring the Rpms up to a steady 1500-2000 for 20 seconds, let it fall for 20 seconds, bring it up for 20 seconds then let the car idle up to normal temp. 8. Once to normal temp check the make sure the upper and lower hoses are roughly the same temp (this means the thermostat is working) it can take some time for this to happen. Pay attention to the temp gauge to make sure it doesn’t climb above the “12 o’clock” position.
alex snake You need to add coolant until that red float sits level with the top of the expansion tank. (the stick floating in the expansion tank you see sticking out of the hole)
Never mix coolant. Green was already in the vehicle from the owner of the car, so green is what went back in after I replaced the expansion tank on THEIR bmw.
