Once the body work is done, please tell me you're going to do a rebuild video of you putting all of the parts back in. We've watched this thing get rebuilt piece by piece, I'm excited to see it all come back together.
On one hand i feel like ordering new parts would be easier, on the other hand the satisfaction of restoring almost every piece of the car is far more fulfilling. Not to mention the attention to detail...
Something I like about your editing : transition between fast and real time action. Great job. it's very usefull to understand how you proceed. Keep going !
Restore It and yet the Russian folks in the comments complain that you didn’t: a) Plate the covers b) Test the shafts are true c) Apply the loctite properly Etc. They also suggest that the ends weren’t welded, but rolled, and thus can be somehow separated. I do love your video though and just wanted to let you know some of these things.
Dude your channel is so sick. not too sure if its intentional or not but you make me want to actually legitimately restore parts on my car that have gone bad. Its so entertaining that you've covered how to do certain things without a word spoken. You give me the confidence and I aspire to do that kind of work as well so keep it up dude!
Although I"m nooband I share your feelings, but there's lots of but's in here. First of all why not to take off the joint completely? It's quite easy to do, all you need is just a light knock and it will pop-off. There's also stuff in there to clean inside, you can also disassemble whole shaft in half and clean things in between. I completely don't understand decision to just repaint this part, which rusts as hell, the only way to paint it properly is using zink, because in this case this won't hold long, any rock that will hit that shaft will scratch it up to the metal, this has to have better coating then a base coat. Also he didn't place bearing balls into place the way it was, do you think they are the same? They are not! They weared out differently, and he just placed healthy balls to the place where it wears out faster which actually makes this shaft more loose within a next month of usage. He also placed boots wrong, putting ziptie over ziptie..w00t? r'lly? Don't you think it's too sharp for the gum to be mounted on top :D? There's so many questions in here for me, although yeah, these vidsare motivates as hell, especially the way things sound, there's no distracting music, there's only hand work which makes me to drop my software engineering and start to restore things! :)
Always look forward to your videos! Most "restorations" are merely replacing parts. You actually restore what you took off of the original car! Great, great job!
I will be so exited to see your BMW restored, but the waiting is really pleasing seeing its progress! I really admire and respect the job you´re doing, not only the restoring, wich is mind blowing, but also the deliver: recording, editing and the consistency of give us always good material. I will absolutely follow your new channels, cause you're somebody to deserves to be supported in every way. Handshake, man. Congrats!
Me too Pedro, I can't wait. Big thank you for this comment it means a lot. All I want to do is post more videos. This type of content takes a lot of work for one video. Not the best if I want to be posting more. I'm glad you'll join me over on the other channels. I can't wait to be myself on camera and share more. See you there!
Buddy, You are generally correct. However the green colour loctite which looks a lot like loctite 290 is called wick in and is designed to be applied AFTER the fastener has been tightened. I didnt see which number it was and if it isnt 290, you're right.
Hi, the outer cv joint is also removable, they're held on by a springclip, a good blow to the inner bearing race should do it. If i'm not mistaken. (kinda like how the halfshafts are locked in the diff) Also the inner cv joints aren't to hard to find and not to expensive and its these that take the hardest beating normally. Its the smallest amount of play that turns in a domino effect of wear
I have been following your stories for a few days and I like to discover your techniques used to put each piece back like new and I sincerely believe that in another life you were a monk. 👌😉
Tip for cutting the masking tape: Use a screwdriver to cut it. Use the long part of the screwdriver around the edge and it will cut the tape perfectly. Just press on the edge with the long round part of the screwdriver and magic happenes.
Wonderful work, please feel free to restore my E30 Touring! As a side note, loctite is anaerobic, meaning it cures when oxygen is excluded. So it needs to be applied to the thread, then assembled forcing out the air around it. Keep up the great work 👍
its mesmerizing to watch someone so good and precise on his job and also lot of elbow grease i have to tell you great great job this is best rosrtoratng channel on tube rn
Oi! Great work as always! A tip though... Don´t use any kind of gloves when you operate the bench grinder or for example a drill press. If you get stuck with the gloves your hands could get really hurt. Keep up the great work!
I think I would have just bought new ones....but that isn't the reason for this channel. God bless you, sir. I hope they don't fail too soon after the rebuild.
Love your videos man. Great attention to detail. When you're using loctite it's important to put it on the threads before you thread them in, and a little bit goes a long way. Keep up the great work!
The car you're working should go into a museum in an exploded view so people can walk in amongst all the parts to see exactly how much work you've done.
As always, awesome video! I been addicted ever since watching your first video. I don't understand the dislikes for this video, if you do not like the video then simply do not watch it. Geesh!
Steve! Another great part of the E30 coming together! You may need to keep the BMW sealed in a glass vacuum--all this beautiful restoration work and then drive through a mud puddle! Haha! Your car is going to be one sweet show piece! I can't wait until you're able to start piecing it back together. I think many of your viewers feel the same--almost as anxious and excited as you are. Take care, my friend. See you soon.
Thank you, Gary! I couldn't agree more. I definitely won't be driving it in the wet. Not a hard thing to accomplish in Spain :D Once the chassis arrives on Sunday and the bodywork videos start, It won't be long until she's painted and things can start going back in. I'm very excited to have her back! Cheers, Gary, you too. Speak soon.
Great job as always, can't wait to see the completed car! One thing I noticed, which you probably already know about, is that the outer boots are not clamped on the right place on the rod - they need to be clamped in the groove.
Loctite you're using is anaerobic adhesive. It works only when there's no oxygen around, for example, inside a thread. That's why any Loctite container should never be full. There're 3 major types of Loctite: red - strongest, for things which should not be disassembled anymore, still can be disassembled with heating; blue - for things which are planned to be serviced with disassembly; and green - weakest of them. I think it's a good idea to remove the screw, clean out green Loctite and apply blue prior you screw it back. Thanks for this nice video, and sorry for my English, it's not perfect but I think it's better than your Russian :)
Your Videos are amazing, i've been watching your videos on and off but since you started your E30 i am hooked and you are one of the reasons i started the restoration of my E36 Compact i love watching your videos before i go out to the Garage an tear into things again. keep up the amazing work. greetings from Austria
I get that you might not want to permanently install your grinder on the bench but you can always bolt it to a board and then clamp the board to the bench so that it can be moved out of the way.
Haha, no I will be bolting it down. I'm just juggling creating the workshop and making videos with it. Everything will be bolted down soon. I'd say the workshop is about halfway to completion.
A little tip I learned for your bench power tools mount them to a piece of wood then you can clamp them down and still have the ability to move them around
For securing those clamps I usually just use some regular pincers, they work just fine only you need to make sure you don't pinch the boot. But seeing that you have the tool on your way that will likely make it even easier
Awesome work! Really love your channel and your restorations! I noticed in the BEFORE and AFTER scenes and wondered if a mistake happened: Aren't the smaller ends of the big black gaskets on the welded side supposed to be further into the middle, sitting in the groove. Comparing them to the BEFORE says yes but maybe they were borked?
Before taking the ball bearings out, you should scribe a line across the outside of the bearing to the inside of the cage. This will allow you maintain the orientaton of the ball bearing channels when putting it back together again. Otherwise it may wearout prematurely!
I've been watching this series since it started, and enjoy the quiet, methodical approach you take, but I have a confession to make. There's a tiny little voice in the back of my head that is waiting for it all to go horribly wrong, and you end up with a part filled with, I don't know, bees. "Right, now to remove the pistons and... huh. Do you hear buzzing?" [camera is knocked over, screen goes black, heavily-bleeped cursing persists until video ends]
Love your channel and all the items you restore! I hope you realize that all the parts you wire wheeled clean and did not paint will rust as soon as they are exposed to water. Most had some zinc coating before, plain zinc or likely yellow zinc. You should include re-zinc your parts after wire brushing them, at least those that won’t be painted. And to keep everything perfect consider clearing the new zinc parts.
you know the other end just pulls apart right? unless they are some weird bmw thing and welded together. if not...yea it pulls apart, just tug on one end of the shaft while holding the other edit: i noticed you said they were welded together, in my experience they sometimes they look like that but the all come apart the same
Hey mate, should try using a Satin Black Direct gloss or clear on parts with imperfections like these. Looks alot better. The gloss brings out the imperfections more And bolt down that Bench grinder!! Ahaha
as usual superb mate , when you have finished it sell it to BMW to put in there museum it will be better than any they will have restored there's will be parts swaps your will be properly restored ,
This kind of work we made in Brazil because the cost of the parts are high then we remanufacture the joints in this way, but doesn't least a month in slow and cheap cars, imagine in a e30, dude you can keep only the axes but the joints they have a natural attrition and causes the end of the joint life. But Nice and educational work
Those metal brackets are suposed to be tighten with pliers, the ones who arent tighten with a screw. they might come lose if you dont. The loctite goes in the threads before screwing, it hardens with a absence of oxigen, and the green loctite is really strong for such a screw, you might not be able to unscrew it later, the red or blue loctite might be better for stuff like that. Nice video, keep the good work :D
Watching your videos leads to a great encouragement for me!!! But in this particular case I guess it'd better to have the grooves sandblasted rather than just brushed. But this is just a small side comment
Thanks for the interesting video! But you have to put the Loctite on the screw or the nut first. Loctite cures anaerobically under the presence of metal ions. Like you did it, it will have little effect.
Seal was basically destroyed once he touched it, because thing layers were created, you need bold line around the that item surface and then squash two items and clean the rest, or else this won't be sealed properly. Also boots are mounted on top of ziptie? Paint and coating instead of zink? Any small rock will scratch this shaft to the metal, bottom part can't be painted the way inners parts are.
