Boy, if only BMW would differentiate between the third light and the L/R units! Thanks for this video I determined my center light was the culprit. Completely melted, original 25-year-old part manufactured in February 1998. “Driving” me nuts for months. Thanks a ton for this!
I had this issue in a '97 528i. Intermittently, it would give me a warning that my right rear brake light was out (this car did not have the high cluster, so this is all the detail that I got). I took the socket out. It was partially melted, but didn't appear to be melted beyond use. The bulb was fine. I used isopropyl alcohol or acetone (can't remember) to remove any corrosion from the inside of the socket. Since then, I have had no issues with the center brake light and I haven't seen any warnings. I would just recommend trying this before paying the $10-15 for a new socket, you might be able to save a bit.
Good call. My 2003 530i did indeed have a fried socket. I didn't buy a new one though; I took the old bulb out in pieces, cleaned up and lubricated the socket, tested for connectivity and found that the positive metal tab that contacts the side of the bulb was melted too. With a small screwdriver, I scraped the melted plastic off the remaining metal tab and carefully pulled out the tab a bit so that it would make contact with the new bulb. Don't pull it out too much as you won't get another bulb back in. Bingo! It works again, right rear brake light warning icon on the dash is off. I've owned many Japanese cars and have never seen anything as poorly designed as this BMW piece. Why do we pay these German prices? This is a design issue as the bulb heats the plastic more than its designed to withstand. And then there is the BMW quality valve cover gasket....
There are several design weak points, and that is definitely one of them. Over-engineering often gets them in trouble too- especially on the newer ones.
Right off the top, be careful crawling into your trunk without your key fob. If for whatever reason the trunk lid closes on you, there is NO emergency trunk release inside, so keep your key fob with you. It will have you scratching your head trying to figure out why you are getting the dash warning light. Replacing mine for only the 2nd time in some 20 years, so that's not too bad. Socket was corroded from condensation getting in. ('97 528i).
Hi.. BMW decided it would be a great idea to indicate a right hand side rear park light failure warning ⚠️ together with the central brake light failure.. I scoured You Tube, spoke with Mechanics, tried my reset module, changed all the rear globes....nothing... even MOT tests didn't pick it up. One night my Missus says my central brake light isn't working... duh! Replaced central globe. Found the side leaf terminal on the globe melted into the plastic a bit. Loosened it up for good globe contact. Replaced globe. Problem solved... after several years!!
Nice to find this chanel, I own the 2001 E39 530d and the 2000 E38 740i, recently had the centre brake light blown, easy to change. Very usefull chanel..thanks !
Just picked up a 98 540i. Same thing "Check Brake Lights" all the time. I took a multimeter to check bulb and it was good. The socket looked like new. Found that the metal terminal along the inside of the base got bent flat and wasn't making contact with the bulb to close the circuit. Simply bent it back and all good again. ☺
Thank you - Mine is fried also. I wonder if now there is an LED replacement to the incandecent bulb. I am not sure that my bulb is the right part number but it fried it. I was thinking on leaving the cover off for better cooling but that duty cycle of breaking should not overheat the bulb.
An LED bulb would look out of place and trip the bulb warning on the instrument cluster. I recommend replacing the bulb/socket housing together, every 5-10 years to avoid failure. The parts are cheap enough and easy enough to access!
Thank you for this video!! I've bought new bulbs... They work until you get half way down the road an then stops an says check brake lights! So happy to find out that it's the socket. Just ordered it then for my m5 thanks for the video!
I guess that is an inherent problem of all E39 cars. My friend has the same problem and I myself have the same problem. Casing looks like as if it was poked with soldering iron. Once the car starts moving, first time I push brake it spews error "Check brake lights". Really irritating, gonna order a new casing from ebay :)
I was hoping this video would lead me towards how to remove the housing for the 3rd brake light as well. Mine is getting dusty in there (13 years will do it!) and as you know, it's all in the details. Any idea how to clean the inside of the 3rd brake light lens, between the glass and the plastic, without having to remove the parcel shelf/rear deck? I'm hoping it's not the only way, but if so I'll deal with it then. Thanks in advance!
mines keeps shorting out but after watching this i dont think my third brake light socket looks burnt inside it what do you think can you tell when they actually burn out? thanks
I have misfire code p0301,p0302,p0303,and p0307 and p0173 and p0170 fuel bank 1,and #2. What do think is wrong with it. Is it the sparkplug or ignition coils and where would I start. Help
Thanks for the video. I have a '99 5.28i (e39) with the same problem. I have just ordered some LEDs from Amazon. The stock 1141LL bulb has a 7506 base, which is what you need to look for, as well as about 300lumens (brightness). I went with one that www.amazon.com/XCSOURCE-Replacement-Camper-Signal-Backup/dp/B013S9O316 I think part of the heat is related to the sun, and the unit being sealed in the back window. I was thinking about drilling some vent holes in the sides to allow excess heat to dissipate. There also seems a good thread www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552269
