6 minute tutorial showing how to replace a speedor sensor in a 2001 bmw e46 320d if this helped you out, please consider a small Bitcoin (BTC) donation :) 3Np8wst9YN8zRAMXcRDeLKmcriZdMgimtk
2000 323i Mine has the center yellow DSC & the yellow ABS lights lit up just like yours, But I also have the BRAKE light in RED just to the left of the ABS light "On" as well. I've checked all the speed sensors and cleaned them but they are still lit up. Took car for diagnosis and I was told it was the wheel angle sensor! They wanted $800+! Sheesh!
Also having the same problem but , once the lights stopped and the ASC was working properly, so how do you think is that 100% that the fault is in the abs sensor causing all of the lights ?
Please tell me ! When you say the rear one will kill your speedometer,,, Rear near side??????? Or rear off side????????? I need new one for my e46, speedometer dead as well as lights come on. Would be very grateful , TY
Gr8 video. Thanx bro. My steering angle sensor light and an orange handbrake light comes when driving. What do you think causes that problem? Even trying to turn it off on the DSC switch it wouldnt go off. Help please.
Same thing just happened to me. Yellow DSC and red hand brake light on. I just needed more brake fluid. The new clean brake fluid was so clear that I couldn't tell how much was in there.
What happens if your traction control lights starts flashing. Could this be the same issue? I mean I drive with traction turned off so it doesn’t effect me anymore but obviously would like to get to the bottom of it and fix it . Thanks! Leon
Very helpful, thanks. I have just the ASC and yellow handbrake light on with mine (no ABS). Would this still be one of the sensors do you think? Regards
Hey Robert, never had both yellow, don't know what that color code means, sorry :( your best bet is to buy a diagnostic tool and never be in doubt again
Hey tanx for the quick response, no I didn't . lights came on by it self I have tried everything including checking pads 80% clean up all speed sensors and I replaced the break wear pad sensor but the lights is still on, the DSC bottom dnt work
red hand brake and yellow asc\desc lights mean one of the rear sensors checked out. IF speedomter is also broken, you'll know it«sthe rear near side left hand drive
Can you use vasaline or some other lubricant to put it in with.?? The hammer would surely damasge it.And how would you know it was that sensor ?? Small socket on extention would make it easy to turn Allen key.
Mines similar but I've got DSC, parking brake and ABS light and they're all yellow, ABS kicking in at very low speeds (usual grind sound/feel).. Any info is greatly appreciated.
BimmerSlick literlly same thing, changed the tyres today and this shit happens, if you get any info, please please share it with me Also look, this might give you some clue www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=72&t=1614525
@@kyuubinojinchuriiki7894 Since posting this my usual mechanic has got back to me and booked me in for first thing in the morning, will let you know how it goes mate.
@@kyuubinojinchuriiki7894 Just got back from the garage, plugged the scanner in and it came back as front right wheel speed sensor has failed so got one ordered. Nice easy and fairly cheap fix at least. Hope this helps dude, all the best
Hey Buddy if the abs dsc and break light are amber that means is one of the front sensors? only if the break light is red that means is the rear? I got no codes can you advise please shutouts from Texas !
Hey Rick, did you change your brake pads recently? With the car off, turn the key into position 1 and wait about 30 seconds, the break light should go off
Hi mate, I had my two rear tires changed. the ones that were on the car was 225-55-16. the guy stuck on some 225-50-16 so as I drive down the road the car doesn't do more than 60mph and the triangle warning light comes on.the car was fine before I got the tires changed. thanks.
Hmmmm I don't think that's related to the tires, you seem to describe that your car is in limp mode. You better get your car plugged into the machine and check out the error codes
So pull out carefully and bang it in after. Hmmm and also why not put some electrical tape around that dodgy connection with the cheap part? Then also there are two sensors not four. Diagonally positioned. One rear and one front or that's what I just learnt from somewhere else. Thanks though the video was ok.
Also traction control light? Light codes are inaccurate, the ones I describe in this video represent the most common cause, the only way to know for sure is to read the error codes with a diagnostic tool (also have a video on that)
330ci,Diagnostic tool shows no codes relating to abs or dsc, but my dash lites are on as well as hand brake and air bag.I changed out the abs module, as it failed.
Hey man this will be a long shot but worth it, i have the asc/dsc ligt + eml light on and giving me all new/different codes all the time. even the engine light can come on(and disapear when it want) but when the eml/asc/dsc light come on when i let the foot of the throttle, the car just like "hits" like in the back 1 time and everytime i let loose of the throttle. but when i turn off and on the car it's all gone till next time it come on.. you got any tips? Cheers!
You are describing driveline lash, that has nothing to do with the lights. I happen to have the same problem and am checking it right now ad we speak. If the THUD comes when releasing the accelerator , chances are you rear diferential Bushing is gone. If it happens when it shifts it can be a number of things. Right now I'm deleting the clutch valve to try and solve jerking when shifting
oh, BMW tell me that it's the engine controller that making this happen. but im not really sure, shouldn't the car loose power and such things, and all the light be on all the time if it's broken? I only have the hitting thing when i releasing the throttle when accelerating
Since I didn't know I could twist it after getting the bolt out I broke mine in half while trying to pry the damn thing out with all the rust and shit everywhere. As it fell out some copper wiring started to unwind out of it. A lot of thin copper wires for what seemed like way too long. Now I've got the plastic stuck in there and might have my mechanic help me get the rest of it out by taking off the brake or something. Not as easy as it seemed at first if you have an old rust bucket E46 lol Worst of all I wanted to try cleaning it first haha
same thing happened to me man, i know i mention that in one of these videos " you do NOT want to break the sensor in the socket" but don't worry, you just have to drill it out and it comes out on the other end. Any mech can sort that out in 15 to 20 mins
do you think it also related to new suspension that i installed could cause both to come on DSC and ABS , maybe I should go back to mechanic and have them check it
Nah, unless he unplugged them by some reason. Recently a mispositioned high beam lamp cause these lights to come on again. I dunno if it shorted and damaged my rear right sensor. Could also be just a bad fuse
OneMinuteFixed thanks for the reply, well it's really annoying today after work everything was smooth just before I got to home both warning lights came on not ready for another expensive repair
OneMinuteFixed thanks mate , well in Washington state cars repairs very expensive even cost more on import cars such as BMW I paid 1400 dollars just for suspension including labor cost , I will call the mechanic tomorrow will see
:O dude suspension costed 140€ here + 30€ install. And that's a one hour job, you should check out more diy videos on these smaller things it will save you a lot of money. I'm in the thousands already
Hey. I have the same problem. The same lights come on and sometimes off. If they are off ( mostly on) then when I brake, it makes some strange vibrations. When lights are on then everything seems ok. How do I know which one I have to change?
yes I also tried 2 diferent autoparts stores with different code readers but they said nothing stored in the computer, I'm gonna try the front left with a new one and if the problem stays I going to swap it to the right I'll let you know buddy
did the warning lights go out when you restarted the vehicle? i have a similar problem on my 04 model e46 , the red brake light and the amber DSC ABS lights , speedo and odo dont work. What are the chances that my dsc module is bad? any help in this regard shall be highly appreciated.
What you describe most likely is the rear driver side speedo (left side drive). Replace that sensor but also clean the flange behind the break pad, you'll see the problem go away for good. BTW, don't bother buy oem, the cheap aftermarket ones from Poland (18€ shipped) are exactly the same
Thanks for the vid! For most people, cleaning the sensor works. Worked for me! So I recommend cleaning them out before buying replacement parts. But I got replacement sensors from fcpeuro anyways! Btw, your engine temp looks above normal??? Could be the camera angle tho... 🤔. Anyways, would be cool to watch you dissect the cooling system on the e46! Peace ✌🏽
Thank you! My car always had problems with the cooling system but it never got over the 90 degrees mark. The cooling system is one of many weak points on the e46
I also have problems with my e46 325ci convertible. every 2 weeks I have to add oil to the engine. If anyone knows what the problem would be, I'll thank them
@@chalo2102 first check the oil level sensor,, i replaced my oil level sencer,,if that dont need to be replaced then it might be the oil filter housing gasket I have the same problem once every 2-3 weeks I have to add a quart of oil,, but I know I have to replace my oil filter housing gasket good luck finding out ur problem
Hey my 2003 bmw 325i has the Dsc and yellow brake light on and my Dsc button doesn’t work when I press it and I wanna do burnout lol but what could it be rear abs sensors ?
Hi bro! I just did it but realize that I broke the socket (the blue piece that remains attached to the car) since it was worn because of the heat and I cannot find that part by going online. Can you please give at least a clue word that helps me to find it online. Any help would be really appreciate
Hi mate, i got the same lights on after i was driving in a heavy snow. Its keeps lighting still and error reset doesn't help. When i done with reset both lights go off. But when i start moving the car it come ups again. Local mechanic told its a problem with module after diagnostic. Do you think it might be sensor problem or the module? Sorry i don't have the error code
Gireesh Prasad Hey there, do you have the handbrake light on aswell? If the module is unreachable via diagnostics it can be bad wiring on the module itself or worst case scenario module failure. In any case and since you report this happening after driving in heavy snow, i would recommend that you check both sensors on the rear (provided the handbrake light is also on). I got a video on how to unplug them rear ones, mine were cut in half and had the pins completely oxidated. After cleaning both ends of the sensor (pins on the plug and magnet sensor) the errors were gone for good on that rear wheel.
OneMinuteFixed Hello again mate, in my case 1) Module is reachable via diagnostics 2) I cleared the error and it stay off and when i move the car, it appear again 3) No break light on ( same like your video ) . I am thinking, if i clear the error via diagnostics and it keeps off without any tyre move, does it mean by the sencor problem? Today i spoke with second mechanic, i told him to clean the sencor tomorrow. I am afride to do myself because i don't have Patients :-)
Gireesh Prasad it seems like you have a dead front wheel sensor. You'll have to check the error to know which wheel exactly. One thing you can easily do is to simply turn the wheel to one side (like i did in the video) unplug the abse sensor, clean the contacts and try to run the car for about 100 meters straight. You can do this in 10 minutes without taking off the wheel, but you will need a can of contact cleaner spray
OneMinuteFixed Hi again buddy, today i was in mechanic and ask him to clean the sencors. but before he was doing a diagnostics with some bosh stuff. During the diagnostics he found the faulty pumb, He told the pumb is not strating when he was trying with the diagnostics tool.Do you know it can happen from blown fuse?
True that, this was the worst aftermarket sensor I bought, plugs didn't fit well, neither did the sensor itself. It works well to this day nonetheless (:
I’m having problems with my bmw 330i I changed all my sensor and my lights are still on and my car goes into limp mode if I drive it the codes is 95 wheel speeds
Limp mode means your serpentine belt is wearing out, have a look at it, then replace it after you replace it, reset the code and your good to go bro, I had the same problem now the car is running smooth 👍🏼
@@williamharris1232 most likely thats the problem on your sensors when they are aftermarket, is better to go oem, they run about $148 each. Good luck to brother.
baba3styler yes, if you have the ASC\DSC + handbrake light on it should be sensor related. The HANDBRAKE light indicates a problem in the rear sensors. Try cleaning both rear sensors, those are way easier to remove. Just take your time and don't force it, last thing you want is a broken sensor in the socket :) let me know how that went
baba3styler after removing the sensors you can rub the contacts with a cloth to remove all the crap . I've seen the wiring of these sensors wrapped with black tape. I dunno if that's standard oem stuff or not but either way if you have tape, remove it and use a wire connector and then isolate that part. I should be doing this on my next video in an attempt to save yet another speedo sensor
+Amrii amri How about when you press the ASC button ? Without a diagnostic tool it's hard to know for sure but try to unplug the battery for 15 mins and see if condition clears
VG Complex hey there, not that I know of, I've read there's a smiliar combination of lights that turn on when your MAF fails, that would cause the car not to start
in case anyone is wondering, if the speedo doesnt work, it´s the left one. if diagnostics like ELM327 reads nonsense as speed, and the speedo in the car works fine, it´s the right one. But those three lights may also mean variety of other brakes/DSC related issues. The code needs to be cleared after replacement of the sensor for the lights to turn off imediately. Also there are passive (grey plug) and active (blue) sensors which are not interchangeable.
Im sorry. I had to laugh. Hammering an electronic sensor? You clean out the hole with a wire brush and if necessary some silicone grease on the metal walls and see if you can slide it in. Pretty sure the factory doesnt hammer them in. If sensor is too fat then go OEM.
oh boy, i never got rid of cooling problems, even though i change almost the entire system, the car would still lose coolant. It's a complete nightmare
@@oneminutefixed5003 If you think you have a leak, to find the leak you have to use a pressure punp that you can bourgh from O'Rily or Autosone and pump the coolant system up and wait for 1/2 hour if the pressure goes down you have a leak, if you don't see it, big possiblity the rediator needs replacing as I did to my2000 E46. good luck
This is the same thing that happens to me,, I have 2004 bmw 325i and once I hit higher speeds some times it will put the car into a safe or limp mode, so I pull over and turn it off wait a few seconds then turn it back on,, I'm thinking MAF or one of the boots, I have a short ram air intake I'm replacing once that comes I'm gonna put it on a spray the MAF sencer and hope for the best, if that dont work I will replace the boots,, I will update and let u know if that solved my problem
sorry i don't :( i have a bmw manual stating these differ from wheel to wheel on the other hand mine are all grey and work perfectly, never had the lights come on again
It's alright! The blue don't seem to work so I had to order the grey one.. My car was made 2 months to early for the blue connector apparently :/ love the vids! Keep em coming! :)
+Oliver Jonsson thanks, you reminded me that I have to make a follow up on these aftermarket sensors, think i can at this point debunk the myth of aftermarket sensors being crap
