Great guide, helped me a lot with my 520d. Pretty much identical except the 4 cylinder leave far more room to work and so no need to remove radiator and slam panel
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make this. As said previously, the 520d is almost identical apart from having lots more room and not needing to remove the fan or slam panel.
Great guide. I changed both thermostats on my 2007 535d when I bought the car two years ago but made life difficult for my self by not removing half of what you did so I'll employ your method this time. My coolant temp is low again at around 70 degrees so I will be changing both (40k miles since the last ones were done) but I will also clean my ear because it must be well bunged up. Thanks.
+Nathan and Sonya Cartwright ...... hi thanks for the feedback, i wanted to do mine but only saw the normal you tube poor ones so wanted to make something a little better .... be careful when removing the EGR pipe like i did at 4.40 into the video as my hose actually ended up being split on its rear and i had a few weeks of head scratching after to figure out what was causing my excessive smoke (it was over-fueling due to the lost air) and performance drop. Glad to have helped some one !!!!
Hi Julian, glad it helped. As far as I can gather the 2.0 lump is very similar in a lot of aspects to the 3.0 unit. Great to share your feedback and hopefully someone with a 2.0 may see also and with your feedback and the video, help them also. Cheers Dave
Very useful thank you, just started replacing both thermostats on my e92 335d, a few minor differences between the two installations but overall a very helpful video
Really REALLY helpful video - thanks very much for your time & effort doing this. Made it all a fairly quick & painless job to replace them instead of undoing half the engine bay then forgetting where half the bits went! :D
Cracked video thanks v much for taking the time to create this.... Need to replace the stats on my e70 X5 with same engine should be a lot easier now I've seen this 👍
Hi RC fun. I was aware this was/is a common failure so I did the dashboard temp check. My car also was not getting very hot from the heater. As I recall it was only getting to around 70 degrees C. The upper EGR thermostat is relatively easy to change on its own so you may wish to try this first. Once completed and running at a good temperature my car MPG went up to around 34mpg from approx 31-32 average before.
Great video! Only way to improve would be to mention the tools required. I got to the last 2 bolts to remove the EGR cooler only to find I hadn't got the right size Torx drive. Thanks for your effort.
Edvin Avdic ... well done ! .... i didnt change my water pump or belts due to them both looking in good condition. Im glad this video helped you save a lot in garage fees !
Just having to change the EGR thermostat on my 2001 E39 530D. Have to remove the flexible vacuum hose to get at the rear 10mm bolt on the EGR thermostat. A new flexible vacuum hose costs about the same as the EGR thermostat! Only need to remove the acoustic panels from the top of the engine to change the EGR thermostat, no major dismantling required. Changing the thermostat doesn't involve changing the EGR cooler on an E39 530D.
Thanks for the info @@grahamepigney8565 its odd, but maybe something to do with the year of manufacture / legislation at the time? I guess the auto is newer than the manual ?
Hello and greetings Sir, I just want to tell you that you are a very fine and professional person and thank you for your video, super HELP I wish you all the best.
@@paulcarnie1857 when i did it i watched a few (all crap) so i thought i would do a proper one which someone could sit down and make a brew and watch the night before and refer to later step by step - glad you like it !
I keep meaning to make videos like this, but I get in the groove, and next thing the jobs done😄, I started making one of my daughters Polo when I did the sills… went for a brew and forgot to continue recording 😯
Hi .... i did personally as its just a small screw .... but to be honest very little air came out and i had no real problems with air locks etc at all, if any. Thanks for watching 😀
Thank you,A very good film.I shall change mine today. Do you know how to adjuse highbeam on a 530 2007 LCI?.It is same lamp to low and high beam,but it is a sort of cup which goes up when highbeam is on.My is to high.Do i have to aduse it on computer? Regards from Ulf
Thanks bro. Helped a lot. Just want to ask how do you bleed the system afterwards. I poured the needed antifreeze started the car and drove it until it reached 90 degrees. Then I tried to bleed the system from thr tap on the egr thermostat but no bubbles came out, just antifreeze, so I closed it immediately. Next day just poured more coolant until it reached between between min and max. I am not sure if I did it the right way. And before opening the tap moved the cabin temp to max.
I am using this video not to see how to change the thermostat, but to see how to install de fan, nice i broke the 2 clips on the top part of the radiator, because i forced kkkk know i know that is 5 screws.
Yan Caron .... Hi. Its not a stupid question, we all have to start and learn sometime ! ..... OK the answer is no you do not need to bleed the system. When you take the pipes off the water will gush out itself. You may need to bleed it afterwards though but i think ive talked about that in the video. Cheers dave
Excellent guide fella, well done. Two questions... 1) What heads do the exhaust clamp bolts have? 2)Can a metric socket be used to remove the spline bolt holding the electrical connector on the EGR valve? Thanks.
Hi. I seem to remember both the items being splined heads so no I don't think a metric socket could be used. I can't check now as sold the car about 3yrs ago!.... Cheers dave
There is a good chance and you may get away with just changing the seal?.....but you should really take it off and inspect it fully as these plastic housings are susceptible to having hair line cracks appear. As I recall the EGR thermostat isn't that expensive. If your going to go to the bother it might be just as well to change it whole?..... NO EBay cheap Chinese ones though!... These need to be genuine, the cheap ones fail quickly. Hope this helps, but you could just try a new seal first yes.
Nice one thanks for the clear instructions, I feel a lot more confident tackling this now! P.s doe's the coolant leak everywhere once you remove the main thermostat? Kind Regards
Great video and thanks for posting. Would you be able to advise what engine type this is please, I might need to do this job on a 2010 635d 6 series with an M57N2 engine and would be really useful to know if they are the same. Thanks in advance for any help.
Hi .... i did personally as its just a small screw .... but to be honest very little air came out and i had no real problems with air locks etc at all, if any. Thanks for watching 😀
Many thanks for your very useful video. Did your thermostat failed indicated from your dash codes and this is why you are replacing them? or is there other reasons? is this part of the service interval?
Hello RC ..... as far as i am aware they are not on any service schedule, just changed on condition. I looked into the secret menu on the dash to get my temperature as the car MPG was a little low (around 30-31) ... Once changed the MPG increased a couple of MPG.
+Planefix1, I know how to access my secret menu too... :-) My 3 series costs around 20p a mile, seems low on mpg! What is the norminal temp? What was your temp that made you want to change that thermostat? How long of a drive or idle to proper warm engine before checking temps?
On the black plate where the EGR valve has been removed there is a raised part with what looks like a 10/12mm hole in it? My 530D has the same. It is just open, nothing is connected to it? Do you know if it is a breather or should it have a plug in, or a pipe connected to it? Thanks
Sorry I have no idea as I sold the car around 5 years ago now! .... But I do now have a 330d hitch looks near identical so I'll try and have a look tomorrow!
Great video with clear and very thorough instructions. I’m going to be doing this on my E61 535d when the parts arrive. From the comments, I see there is one bolt on the 535 that is more difficult to access? Also, do I need to drain all the coolant out before? Also, I couldn’t see a procedure to bleed the system after….is this necessary? Thanks and again great video!
Hi, i sold the car a few years ago, but from what i can remember! ...... Not sure about the extra bolt, i saw the comment, but have never seen a 535 version sorry, i didn't drain any coolant, i just popped it out and let it drain itself then topped it up ....... i didn't have any bleeding issues at all that i remember. There is a small screw on the EGR thermostat and i think i just bled that a little, but that was about it. Thanks for the comments, glad its helped!
Hi there. Thank you for the excellent video. I have seen some quick fix videos for the EGR 'stat change along with written descriptions of the process to do both but seeing your video is super helpful! I will be tacking this shortly on my 2009 E61 525d xDrive. Let's see how much crud I have accumulated in the EGR in the last 125,000km... One thing though. Can you elaborate on the coolant refill procedure? I hear that about 3L of 'red' BMW coolant is needed along with equal parts de-ionised water. It would be helpful to know the procedure to refill and then presumably bleed the system. I would imagine there is a bleed valve somewhere to consider...? Should we do a flush at the same time? If so, do you know how? Many thanks for the help!
Hi Siggy, Thank you for the kind comments. When refilling my coolant i simply topped it up from the reservoir as i didn't actually loose that much (probably less than 1.5 - 2 liters). I may be mistaken but i believe my coolant was green/blue in colour, but that would be insignificant as long as you use the same type as what you have in now (mine is UK spec perhaps its different where you are ?). To bleed the system i literally just cracked the coolant screw right on the top of the EGR thermostat housing. You need a large Phillips or flat head screwdriver and then just crack it open and let some air escape. When i cracked mine i only got a small amount of air out of the system. I then started the car and did the normal sort of stuff such as, run the car at idle until at temperature then checked the fluid level again, then took it out for a long run with the heater on etc then checked again and then monitored it over the next few days - but like i said to be honest i never even had to top it back up at all and its ran fine since. I've personally never used de-ionised water to fill any car coolant system, just normal tap water and antifreeze mix, but if it states de-ionised water you can buy this cheaply from an auto store for a pound or so per litre (its cheap anyway) ........ hope this helps ! ....... cheers David
+Planefix1 Wonderful, thank you. I was under the impression that you would lose more fluid than that, or perhaps you would use the opportunity to change/flush all of the fluid. If it's safe to just carry on with the remaining fluid and top it up then I'll go with that. In the meantime, I did call by local Stealer (Switzerland FYI) and they also use blue, not red. I got the red idea from a forum post somewhere. I think this looks simple enough that I am going to order up the parts an go for it. I am getting 69degrees average with 10degree ambient temp so I believe both of my 'stats are stuck open. Wish me luck!
Hi Siggy Yes 69 degrees is very low, you should see an increase in MPG when done by 1-2 Miles per Gallon (I did) ...... If you follow this video you wont go far wrong as i think i've covered it all pretty much. Just be carefull bending the boost hose pip out the way to remove the radiator fan as this caused my hose to split a few months later (stress i guess from being bent out the way - my car is a 2005). ..... good luck !
+Planefix1 Thanks for the tip on the boost hose. I will be careful with it. I have just been to BMW and picked up the new main thermostat, EGR thermostat, little yellow washer, 1.5L of BMW coolant concentrate and 5L of distilled water from a local shop. The plan is to have a crack at it tomorrow morning so I have just removed the engine cover and hit lots of bolts with some penetrating spray (GT85) to make things easier tomorrow. Wish me luck!! I will be following your video and hope that things go smoothly!
+Planefix1 OK, I have just finished the job. 3 hours in total with a friend's help. Nothing was hard except perhaps access to a few bolts. Thank you so much for this excellent video. I would never have attempted it without watching it a few times. The engine temp has gone from a wildly fluctuating 69 average to a pretty steady 92 degrees. I'd call that 100% fixed! The EGR stat was stuck wide open (I could blow right through like it were a tube!) I actually disconnected the smallest pipe coming out of the main thermostat towards the bottom end of the EGR and used it to drain 2.5L of fluid. In the end I had to top up by about 1L that was lost to the garage floor. I cleaned the EGR whilst I had it off. It wasn't too grubby (125,000km) but it's gleaming now. Thank you thank you thank you! That's 620 Swiss Francs of BMW labour I didn't pay this morning! :)
Planefix1 really good job! But theres still one thing i do not unterstand:S How do i bleed the system after replacing the two thermostats? And how many liters of the antifreeze i will need after? Greets from vienna🤝
Edvin Avdic ..... if you move the video to 5.37 time. You will see the EGR thermostat housing has a plastic cross head screw, bleed valve on it. Once all refitted. Start to fill the coolant as normal (dont forget to add antifreeze). Once the expansion tank is full, open this screw and allow the air to escape. Also squeeze the radiator hoses to help expel any trapped air. Start the engine and let the system run amd watet to move around. Open the bleed valve again to expel any more air. Allow the engine to get upto temperature (keep monitoring the water level) makes sure you have the in car heater on full hot. To be honest thats all i did. I didnt even have to top the water up afterwards ! .... Obviously i would check the water daily for the following few days to be safe and carry a couple of litres of watet with you just in case, but i think you will be just fine .... good luck !
Hi mine is 520d 177Ps , I deleted the EGR. And there is no smoke at all and the mpg is still getting nearly 60 mpg if I stick on 70mph. Mixed around 45 mpg. So what's the point of this extra parts there and make things complicated? Could u give me an answer. Thanks.
The EGR recirculates a small amount of exhaust gasses back into the intake at medium to low revs in order to reduce the cylinder temperature (by putting inert gasses back in thereby making the mixture less flammable). This lower cylinder temperature actually allows a more complete burn of the fuel that is injected thereby reducing the total emissions. In other words, it is complicated, it is prone to faults, it saps power, but it's necessary for the manufacturers to get modern diesel cars through the ever stricter emissions limits.
Do these cars have that typical bad diesel smell? Specially at cold start? I just drove one, superb car but the smell is really bad, even though it was the euro 4
@@Planefix1 yes maybe the dpf was removed. But still I don't understand how is possible that many euro 3 e38 and e65 730d don't have any smell but the euro 4 aluminium block engines smell stronger.. maybe swifl flaps removal influences also
Hello, I have managed to remove EGR and Throttle Body. Cleaned everything and put together. A reason why I was removing to inspect why Throttle Valve doesn’t move when engine is being switch off and just shake the whole engine. I can move Throttle engine valve by hand. What could be a reason why doesn’t function? Maybe board inside is damaged by oil?
Hi thanks for the video. Main thermostat on my 525d was replaced by previous owner and while going in to replace crank pulley it appears there is a leak from the thermostat just under where it bolts on. Anyone ever seen this? Wonder if I should just take it off and add some sealant.
philbLeprechaun .... Well I guess you could strip it down and check the pipe connection and or bolts are tight first. To put some sealant on properly you would basically have to do the whole job anyway so I personally would fit a new pump while I did it. Reason is I heard pattern parts fail quick. It may be that the part he fitted was not origional anyway ?. If cash is tight then check the bolts are tight and pipe connections and then take it from there.
if you plan the job and have all the right tools about 40 min needed on a520 you loose all the coolant onto the street unless you want to fool about taking off the undercover
Hi, with my e90 320d automatic, normal working coolant temperature is 88-91c while car is going... when the car stops (working in neutral) temperature reaches 96-97c but not going over... is that normal?
Hello ..... That temperature sounds OK to me, although i dont know the exact 320d temperatures. Have you had a trawl of the internet to look ?. The fact the car temperature peaks a little immediately after a run would i suggest be normal. It should however return to normal after a while. If the thermostats were faulty i think your temperature would a lot lower than @90 deg C. Have you noticed a significant drop in performance or MPG ? lack of heat inside the car ? excess smoke out the back ? ........ if not i would suggest its most likely OK.
+Planefix1 I have changed both of thermostats, and a water pump few weeks ago because on open road coolant temperature was not going over 60c... Few days ago I have noticed that coolant (open road or city driving) have temperature 88-91c, which is normal... but while car is not moving (working in N, or in traffic jams) coolant temp goes to 97c, but not over, and when car starts to move it drops on 90c... So I dont know should car increase coolant temp to 97c while not moving, I dont know is it normal or not... :/
+Planefix1 I havent noticed drop in performance or lower mpg, or the smoke behind, nothing wrong... if I werent looked in hidden manu, I wouldnt know the problem...
Harry Isuf. Hi Harry ... do not buy a cheap one off EBAY or you will be changing it again shortly !. Please trust me and buy a Genuine BMW item it is worth the little extra my friend
