Just wanted to say thank you so much for this video! I’ve just put my new hpfp in tonight, need to do the bleeding process tomorrow, havnt used ISTA before so this will be my first try with it! What motivated me was multiple garages (one supposedly a well known BMW specialist in Essex but I won’t name names, told me diesel getting into the oil would be a dpf problem… ruled that out then I was told it must be the injectors!! Only after a lot of research I came across the likely issue being the HPFP and ive lost faith in the garages so I plan to do everything I can myself! 😊 Excited to do more on my car after this though 💪 my cars a BMW e65 730d with the m57 engine
Excellent video and thanks a lot! I'm changing my oil due to dilution now - and since I've now confirmed that the DPF regen cycles are not occurring too frequently, potentially causing fuel to leak down the cylinder walls, I'll be ordering a kit for my pump as well.
Hi, Great clear sensible video. I am about to tackle this as I have fuel dilution in sump and this appears the most likely culprit. Can you advise what gaskets ,o rings, bolts are required so I can order prior to start. I have heard some bolts are single use and any other hints or items I should replace whilst engine apart as it has 190,000ks on it. I am in Brisbane Australia and have found O rings for fuel pump only available in UK. I have a Foxwell scanner to bleed system when finished. Cheers and Thanks.
I didn't replace a single seal or bolt other than what was in the seal kit. No issues with leaks and there are no single use bolts in this area. Used the Meat and Doria seal kit, which I had sent to me from Europe. From memory cost me about $60 plus post. I'd be checking the swirl flaps while in there, and maybe doing a swirl flap delete. Lots of info out there on this. Also check the intake ports for carbon build up.
THANK YOU for this video. I just replaced my HPFP and haven’t been able to get it to turn on since changing it. I’ve now ordered an OBD to bleed the fuel system. The dealer wanted $7k to replace fuel system.
Thanks for the informative video. Quick question regarding the fittings at the rear of the pump going to the rail. Does it appear that the high pressure output fitting could be swapped into either one of the three holes (two of which have plugs, in addition to the spring and ball bearing)? I'm in the process of swapping this pump into a 2.0 TDi golf. The high pressure line needs to be bent, and if I can use one of the other holes for the output I would only need to bend the line about an inch vs approximately 6 inches.
When I looked at a lot of information prior to the rebuild, it did look like it was a common output passage that ran via all three positions. So I suspect you are correct and you could locate the output at any position. I also suspect this would be part of the design to give flexibility for different platforms.
Hi! Great video. What is a common failure on this pump? Have an issue with this pump does not build more then 100bars for pressure. The car have been sitting for a few months? Is it that the pistons get stuck or clogged? 😅
I'd be very surprised if there was a physical issue within the pump. I'd be looking at the supply pressure. High pressure output is controlled by the input pressure. The pressure control valve does this by allowing pressure to be returned to the tank. If getting limited pressure from the HPFP I would first be checking the pressure coming from the electric pump in the tank. It could be as simple as a clogged fuel filter.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy thanks for the reply! The pump in the tank and fuel filter is changed. Insta says we have 100bars pressure in fuel rail. We have disconnected the sensors at the fuel rail and still no start. Could it be the fuel regulator valve on the HPFP ? It clicks but maybe its faulty anyways? Thanks again 😀
I'm not an expert on these pumps and have zero diagnosis experience, so this is all just a guess. Looking at the way the pump and regulator work, the regulation by the solenoid of fuel return is what controls pressure. If this is stuck open then it won't allow pressure to build. I've done lots of transmission solenoid testing before, and the regulator seems to be pretty much an identical item. I'd be removing and pressure testing. Have a look at the following video. It's for a Porsche PDK transmission valve body, but I show how to test the solenoids, which I assume would be an identical procedure. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iXMHyk8uZG8.html
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Have tested the regulator on the fuel rail with 12v and no clicking sound from it. Seems likely its stuck open and thats why the pressure only builds up to 80-100. Going to change it and see if its starts up. Thanks again super helpful video and replys.
@@bengt1758 Did you test the regulator on the pump or on the fuel rail? I was talking about the one on the pump and I didn't know there was one on the fuel rail. Looking at realOEM it seems the one on the end of the fuel rail is also a regulator. No idea how this one works.
