I just did this and learned alot, one thing I would suggest is to do it the other way around opposite as shown in the video,. Start with your upper arms, then move to your lower arms. Once you mess up your alignment on your lower arms, it's super hard to put the upper arms in. I followed the video on one side and ended up cross threading 1 bolt on upper arm, next day I did the other side but decided to start with upper arms, and it was sooooo much easier. The video is a good guide for DYI. But from the experiance I got this weekend, I suggest start with upper arms. Will make your life way easier
My left control arm nut went loose for some reason and busted my side shaft rubber open. For some reason my brake line slit and leaked brake fluid all over the place. This happens only 4 months after replacing my wheel bearing 😭😭 Talk about bad luck thanks for the videos
If i tighten the excentric bolt of toe arm more than 100 nm, will i have to change the bolt the washer and the lock nut or just the lock nut ?! Thanks for.your reply 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great video & explanation! FYI, delete the (2) linked comments below from Elna & Pavel, they take you to bad sites. Where do these jerks come from? (I just reported them)
How many suspension arms are needed for just one side? I only need to replace the drivers side rear once’s and I don’t. Know if I need this full set of 8 or just 4
Super helpful - thank you! Any reason why you did not replace the rear trailing arm bushing located in the wheel carrier? Would you recommend changing that bushing when doing this overhaul?
Hi Jordan, the vehicle we used, in this case, had lower mileage. However, a special tool is needed for that bushing. Perhaps something we can queue up for the future!
@@There1sn0spo0n I ended up doing mine last weekend. The squeak and problems became more than I could ignore. What ended up working for me was the standard ball joint tool you can borrow from advance auto. Used that to force the center of the ball joint to flush and then used a perfect sized washer to force it out the rest of the way with a 2" cup on the opposite side. Washer was at my local hardware store, think it was a 5/8 flat washer in the thick washer section. Getting the new one in I got a short piece of 1.25" pipe with a threaded end, using an angle grinder I took the OD down until the threads were gone and it was a near perfect size to fit over the new ball joint and push on the rim of it. I then used a piece of 1/2-13 threaded rod, a stack of washers, my modded pipe, and the 2" catch cup from the advanced auto kit to force in the new one. Starting it in was a little nerve racking, but once it started it was really easy. All in all side one took about 4 or 5 hours (replaced lower control arm too - not necessary), second side took probably 45 minutes since I had a process down.
F36 Xdrive after changing rear springs only from M Sport springs to lowered Eibach springs 1 month later the car started to behave crazy. Hitting small potholes, man holes or other uneven road surface the rear is shockingly unstable. The rear end of the car feels like fish tail. So unsafe to drive. Could be that when changing rear springs i tightened control arms bolts and other things NOT at the ride height??
@@fcpeuro rear tyres have 0mm thread left. Concerning. Now I have replaced rear tyres with another set that have 2mm remaining thread. The car is more stable when hitting pot holes. Next month i will replace all 4 tyres to brand new Michelin PS4S to check if worn tyres are affecting handling.
