When I first saw the steps required I figured what a pain in the butt, but when you work on it slowly do everything in little steps and take a few leisurely days to do this, it truly pays off!You learn a ton doing the work youreself and when it bugs you, take a break, Works every time,,, Great video!!
I have a 1998 F650 Funduro and after watching this video I will never change it for a newer one. It's amazing how much you have to take off from the bike to get just to the valves cover. I love simple bikes and engines. Thanks a lot !!!
@@BikesCameraAdventure I get that. I always get started jobs in my shop with the intention of filming them, but it is a lot of work, so I appreciate that you actually got it done.
Thank you so much for this video! I'm gonna have to do this job on the road (on a very long trip), and this makes me much more confident about doing it!
@@BikesCameraAdventure Which tools were required to remove the chain tensioner? I'm on the road and won't be in a position to get more tools once I start the job...without putting everything back together again.
@@donpablohahn I was able to pull it off with a 22 mm wrench and a lot of patients. It is in a very tricky spot and the book does call out a special tool, but it can be done!
Just successfully completed the valve shim job in Ulan-Ude, Russia! Without your video I couldn't have done it on the first try, nor at all really. Now on to Mongolia!
Excellent video. Not sure if I am brave enough to remove the chain. Trying to get the timing correct again would give me a heart attack 😄. Keep up the good work.
For the 2012 years bikes there was a service bulletin on the compression lever you hear clicking check your engine number to see if yours is one of them or not .
I think this should have been titled “valve check” not valve job. But no matter as it is evident after watching for a few minutes. Wow, am I glad I have a carbureted model! As funny as that may sound it is evident that it is -much- easier to get access to the valves without taking off soooo much stuff to get in there. I also note that they converted the style of shims in later models from shim over bucket to much smaller shim under bucket. You should consider actually showing the bolt modification you made to secure the crankshaft in place and emphasize the fact that doing that really is necessary, that might have eliminated doing this three times. In the end, before you button it all up, turn the engine over a few times and then physically check clearances on the valves again to be sure you got the clearances you wanted to end up with. For beginners to check ....and adjust.... their own valves, you left out a LOT of details. You should also note what the valve shim thicknesses are (and their position) when you are satisfied with the end result. Write it down and keep that information with you on a long tour. That way when you check your valves and find they need adjustment, you do NOT have to take the shims out to measure them....and then go order them at the dealer then either wait for parts to come in or put it back together and do it all over again to put in the correct shim. You can measure your valve clearances, refer to what shim is already in there because you wrote it down, then order the parts and then take the engine all apart again to re adjust them. Wow, I am so glad I do not have a gas tank under seat model! I think even my model is a PITA to work on, but the FI models even seem worse.
Yes, good tips. Shooting video while doing repairs is always challenging and sometimes I just forget to hit record. Thanks for watching and I hope this helps others as an overview guide and not a step by step tutorial.
Awesome video - I've studied it and I'm almost done with my valve adjustment. Just need to get the intake cam back into place - I did not remove the tensioner when I pulled the cam. Can you explain any details on how you were able to get the cam chain tensioner out? What kind of wrench did you use? Did you have to remove any other plumbing or other parts to get to it? Thanks!
That cam tensioner bolt was tricky. I just used a regular wrench and had to flip it a bunch and only turn a little at a time. I didn't remove anything else. Messing with the chain is a lot easier with it out. Best of luck!
my tr650 runs like crap from cold starts. Im hoping the valves are out of spec. Ive done a g800 before but lucky the 650 uses 10mm shims. Had a set from my ktm 690.
Thank you a very informative video But.. Not a big fan of a basic shim replacement, not a good idea long term without grinding valves in first to get an accurate fit .. that 0.33 could be carbon build up.. a fragment breaks away and then you have a hot gas leak melting holes in valves and seatings .. hope all works out :)
Great Video and very informative . Question for ya....any idea of what the average cost of a service like this will be ? either at a dealership or a decent independent shop? Thanks
Thank you!! I don't know the cost of this service. They should be able to give an estimate over the phone. If I had to guess on the price it would be over $1,000 dollars here in the Bay Area CA.
Yes it can, and it did. As long as you don't drop the chain, you can just "jiggle" it back on. The chain has no marks, only the crank and two cams. Once the chain is back on, snug it down and rotate the motor with the crank bolt a bunch of times and make sure everything stays aligned. I was off at first and had to adjust. Not a big deal. just time consuming.
I’m about to do this job on my G650. Last time the valves were just barley in spec so I have a feeling the exhaust will be a little tight. Also it just started a tapping noise on cold starts. Do you think it could be the decompression lever? Is there a spring on it that can be replaced?
Yes, I do think the noise you're hearing is that little decompression lever. I'm not sure what can be done about it. I have 40k miles now and it seems to only be getting louder. I plan on replacing it the next time I go inside the engine, but I haven't done the research yet! I hope it can be serviced with a spring like you mentioned and not the whole cam. Let me know what you find out, lol. All the Best!
@@loomspace Very little audible change. That clicking at start up and shut down is from that little decomp lever on the forward cam. I'm wondering if the spring needs replaced, which might help the noise.
@@BikesCameraAdventure I'm wondering the same on mine, I know it's a common complaint. Would be great if the spring by itself could be replaced with good result. I don't think it matters functionally but would help to be able to hear other worrying noises! 😁
Do you need to torque down the spark plugs or do you just go with "the feel"? I want to change mine, but I can't find anything online that says if they have a torque spec or can be done "in any way".
Ricardo Tellez Zapata It might of just been in my head, but it did feel a little bit more peppier. lol And, it helps from future damage when the bikes gets older.
bro, good video, I need help, I have a similar motorcycle and I need to know how to put it on time, for example when the lines of the camshafts are aligned where the magneto has to be, please help
Thank you for liking the video! If its a single cylinder like the G 650 you want to make sure your piston is top dead center. Then as you said, align the camshafts and make sure the cam lobes are not pushing down the valves. Then get the chain on and rotated a bunch of times by hand to verify everything is ok. Hope this helps. What bike are you working on?
On my Dakar 2000 model motorcycle, there is a difference in the intensity of the gas emission between the two boilers, there is also a change in color due to heat in one of them. Is this an engine problem?
My gs sounds exactly the same as yours at 18:12 for 1 or 2 seconds after fire up.That rattle on the top of the engine.Is that normal?Apart from that the engine runs fine.
Yes, normal. That is the intake springe de-compression lever. When the bike is at normal RPMs the centrifugal force of the cam spinning keeps it out of the way. When the bike is shut off and the RPM's slow, that lever will then push on the intake valve letting out any compressed air, which helps for the next start up. It's not the best set up and makes some noise before the bikes gets up to speed.
What is life span of the water pump gear and balancer gear? Is it every couple yrs? I'm replacing both of mine right now. Heard alot of complaints about the water pump and gears and seals.
@@BikesCameraAdventure mine has 38,000 and has new clutch but those both gears are plastic on the balancer shaft and water pump. Everything back I ordered. Was told by dealer that you should alway carry a spare pump kit and gears cuz the are 0rone to stripping from fast exselerating.
thanks Jason....these bikes have a lot of starting issues with the decompression lever...did you replace it with the newer version...is it easy to replace? replacement part 11 31 8 540 965
I have come to the conclusion that the BMW Motorcycles (Specially the 6500 GS) are nowhere near as good as the Japanese. I have a MV Agusta F4 Brutale 2005 and this motorcycle has turned me off buying any European Product. The European Manufacturers do not honour their warrantees. Why buy anything where a manufacturer pretends to rectify a fault?
