This video is about BMW Active Grille Actuator replacement. The warranty on these is 10yr 120k miles if you are in the US. They are known to fail. If you prefer to repair yourself, this video will show you how.
Hello Bob, great video and now my flaps are now in the open position and stuck. I have no error codes on the dashboard. Do you know what fuse the Actuator is linked to?
Hello, I have a question, do you know how much it costs to repair the blinds more or less since a stone broke a "tooth"? My car is a G20. (At the BMW dealership) Thank you
Great DYI video however I replaced it on my G31 2018 Touring and now the top active grill flaps are working the other way around, closed when driving and open when parked/ignition off. Any way to reset this behaviour to default? One note to make is that when I disconnected the old motor actuator the flaps went to closed position and wouldn't let me twist them to open. Any help/guidance greatly appreciated. Tnx
I’ve got code 21b045 loss of comm’s with lower actuator as a permanent code. However I don’t have lower air flaps? And my upper kidney grill air flaps are working fine?? I’m replacing the actuator in any case to see if the error goes away.
Is there a way to move the gears on the actuator? The new one is not sliding in like the old one does- I’ve tried both the closed position and the open position.. Thanks.
HI, Thank you very much for this video. I have an X3 G01 2018 (Mid) model and my actuator motor (I think) failed. It used to work once in a while but of late its completely stopped in the open position. No error messages in the panel or lights whatsoever. I had it evaluated in my local BMW workshop and they said its most likely failed but I did not insist on replacing it seeing the way they have to remove all the parts. I am worried that when they put back things they may not put it all well (shoddy job). Your explanation makes it look very easy and I can easily do this myself and thank you for that. My only question is - how do I confirm the motor is only broken and not something else - like wiring. The lower flaps operate and I confirmed that though. From the schematic - looks like these two (top and bottom) are in series (From the digital logic standpoint not power wise)? So the fact that the lower ones are operating means the cabling is OK? Is that correct assumption? Please advise and thanks in advance.
I live in a real hot city and i dont need that grill fins to close , is there a way to deactivate that feature and fool the system to get rid of the check Eng. light ?!
I noticed you skipped over the step to expose the grill clips, I just wanted to swap out my chrome G12 kidney grills for the gloss black without damaging the active flaps/motor. Could you please explain the steps to uncover the clips for grill replacement please? Thank you.
Hello, great video. I did this repair on my X7 but the engine light keeps coming back. I cleared the code and after a start cycle the engine light is back. Is there more than one actuator on the X7 (G07)? I dont think so but i could be wrong. My flaps operated normally before I changed this and after still the same. Any insight?
@@bobmac1970 you are correct. i never noticed but the flaps are there. found a cigarette bud stuck in the lower grille. Light went away after removing it and changing the upper grille actuator. Thanks!
Decent vid - thanks. Couple of points: I have a permanent subscription to NewTIS. There is a repair sequence at Home / BMW G12 750Li xDrive Sedan / Repair Manuals and Technical Data / 67 Electric motor / 67 10 Electrical drive units/systems / 67 10 580 Replacing the drive for air flap control at the top. Also, the TS Bulletin / extended warranty is confirmed or denied by VIN for the models only with the "R" extension after, for example engine type N62R. QUESTIONS: 1. Did you try and cleaning or lubrication of the pivot points, motor control contacts, etc.? 2. Did you locate the controlling fuse? - The NewTIS search I did, did NOT provide a page for the wiring diagram to trace (weird).
I have a 2022 X50i with this issue and the dealership is refusing to replace, despite the vehicle only having 10,000 miles. Any recommendations? They're stating it was not defective and it was caused by something "external" despite there being zero debris or foreign materials wedged into it. It seems like they have the problem uniquely categorized to always charge the customer... thoughts? recommendations?
If there is no evidence of outside damage, you can let them know that there is a service action recall for the actuator motors. You may need to find it online and print it to show them. Here is one from from prior year BMW's static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10182605-9999.pdf
If u change the kidney grills to a aftermarket like carbon fiber will u get a check engine light on? Mine did I took it to the bmw dealer and they said it was cus of the after market grill🤦🏻♂️
If you unplug the assembly and or motor and replug the new motor in, will the louvres positioning autocorrect or will another code pop up for incorrect position?
Make sure to note the position prior to avoid that posibility. Since mine went in fine, I don't know if it would cause a problem...but better to be safe!
Is there a way to know if I just need to switch the actuator or if my grill is broken? I got a code for the bottom grills not working, the ones covering the radiator. I really don’t want to take it to bmw because they will void my warranty due to my tune. The code is 138225.
Chances are that it's the actuator. Aside from visually checking the louvers you can't tell which it is. The Actuators are a known issue for these though.
I'm a little confused, if this is covered under warranty let them fix it... have it on record and if something else goes wrong with the part or something in that area take the car back. It's a car things fail...
It is under warranty. You're correct...partially. In the US the customer gets great service. In some places they get 1yr, then good luck. If you're in the US, I would just take it in as it is under warranty.
Nobody seems to know where the fuse is on a G11/G12 for the grills. It’s driving me crazy. If the grill is obstructed, the fuse should blow. I’ve replaced my actuator and nothing. This fuse is like the holy grail of secrets. Can anyone help me?
I would consider deleting this functionality by removing all the flaps and leaving the motor so it doesn’t throw codes. Hopefully by operating with no load it won’t break as easily and the thermostat will regulate the cooling as it has been since the first watercooled engines, more so with the electronic thermostats in modern BMWs. Cheers!
If I were staying in Arizona, I'd consider taking the flaps out. I'll be in a bit of a colder winter climate, so I think I'll leave them in for now. :)
Im in limp mode ( drivetrain error) after deleting the shutter assembly, keeping the motor in though. My ambient temp is now showing 30 degrees higher ambient temp 😅. Odd unless it's an unrelated issue.
@bobmac1970 yes and no. I've reflashed a couple times to the stock bm3 file and each time the codes come back, despite adding the 3 codes to the config
В России,в Москве, привод верхних жалюзи оригинальный стоит 40$,замена стоит 30$.Нижний привод меняется только в сборе с решёткой жалюзи.Оригинал BMW стоит 200$.Замена с снятием бампера 100$.Это цены в Москве.Я только что менял у себя на BMW G 30. За все оригинальные запчасти вместе с работой я оплатил 370 $
I haven't tried pushing on them. When the car is cold and ignition is turned on, the flaps should cycle. If they're truely stuck closed, I would fix or manually set open until you can get them fixed.
@bobmac1970 would I be correct by saying there are the 2 for the kidney grille(these are closed),lower one in the middle(open) then 2 other small ones at the lower corners(passenger side open/drivers side closed)? Sounds confusing but that's currently what I can see. How do they open manually? EDIT: nevermind, the mf's opened today as I idled the car with A/C on. Got out with car running. Turned car off and they shut. I appreciate the replies! 🤟
