How to replace the gaskets in a BMW heater valve for E31, E32, E34, E36. Part Number: 64118391417 Search for "E34 Heater Valve Gasket Set" on eBay or other shopping platform.
I tore apart my 22 year old valve on my M5. The seals were perfect! I guess running it on genuine BMW coolant all it's life has been worth it in the end.
Too funny this popped up in my feed - I had made the same video 10 years ago - time flies. One recommendation I have is to clean the actual plungers that seal off, but also pop the silver plate off and clean or polish the plunger shafts so they slide more freely, too. Coolant gets behind the rubber sealing washer plates and corrode the shafts. Good vid.
I got slightly different valve version, but even though I was able to rebuilt the valve using this tutorial. Many thanks, heater works/cooler works great.
Have to replace my heater valve on mine now, just going to replace the whole thing myself, got the whole unit for about $100. This video was definitely educational, now I understand what goes on inside to better understand how it works. The more you know.
Wish I found this video earlier, before I broke this part :D Good that I got another used part for very cheap, so now I can do the maintenance on it the proper way. Thank you!
You need to also note that on the V8 cars - after installing a new auxiliary pump, sometimes they keep running continuously, and sometimes they don’t work at all. They should only come on when a certain temp is selected on the heater control and the outside temp is over a certain degree. Many times the issue is a faulty relay. The auxiliary water pump relay - # 10 RELAY - not fuse in the under hood fuse panel. Of course also make sure all the fuses are intact.
Bruh I found you in a RU-vid video 😂😂 awesome love your channel I have e46 328i 5speed 4 door and wanna drift it any tips other than diff angle kit and coil overs?
I just keep rewatching this bcause its the best guide I ever seen. Logical guessing parts is my favorite. Keep making videos. I love it I got here bcause I got 1995 e38 with m60b30 with manual transmission. It keeps blowing hot air and if I turn blower off, it will keep heating center console lol. Think this might help.
I used a small bearing puller to pull plastic cylinders out carefully. you hook and pull rubber gasket out first and make sure to open wide enough. try not to mare the plastic on bottom as you want to reuse these.
not sure why yours was running cold. but mine was far more crustier than yours. i had tons of gunk on my unit. the plunger barely moved up and down until i tore mine apart. worse thing is, i found this video after i did my strip down.
I used this kit on my E38 and I am getting constant heat. Something tells me that the seals that go around the plungers are too tight and prevent the plunger from moving up and down. OEM design seal is thin rubber and moves up and down together with the plunger. With Chinese seal it has to rely on gap between the seal and the plunger to be able to move up and down. If the seal is too tight the plungers can't move.
You are absolutely correct. I have just done mine and the seal for the solenoid plunger is totally the wrong design. It should be a bellows which moves in and out with the plunger. I have drilled the rubber out slightly so that the plunger works now, but fear that the solenoid will now fill with water. I am going to try and source another kit from somewhere, but don't hold much hope. Excellent video though.
damn wish i saw this earlier, i took mine off and pulled it str8 appart,my room lightning was kinda shit and wasnt paying attention to copper wires,rip valve
Hey, thx for the video. Got a question though: I only get hot air, fully loaded hot air out of the heated grills. How do I check whether the culprit is the electric on the regulator side inside the car (red blue temp switch) or the solenoid plunging part you show in the video? Obviously the aux pump unit does not get 12 volts, so it is always fully opened. But how and where can I start to find the real cause for that? Thx
@Leif Great video. I wish other videos were this thorough and well explained. I have an e36 with heater issues and I bought/installed a new heater valve which did not fix the problem. I can be blasting the A/C and very hot air comes out of the upper (defrost) and lower (footwell) while the dash gets the cold air. What am I missing? Where is there another diverter? Thanks!
That sounds like a mechanical air flap, not the coolant heater valve. I would search for HVAC doors or HVAC flaps to find that type of issue. Good luck!
@@markromans1814Hi, could you solve the issue? I have the same problem in my e39. Hot air comes from the upper and foot vent and cool in front vents. Thanks!
Those brown plastic tubes will not come out after many years, So, i made a cut in them longwise with a hacksaw blade. Then they will come out. Then fill in the groove with epoxy and put them back in.
I am stuck trying to get the two plastic cylinders out of the bottom part that has hose hookups. i cannot get a wiggle that will free it with my fingers
Hello, I have a no start on a 2002 320d e46, what I have noticed is when cranking the heat control valve gets really hot..you cannot touch it . Is that normal ?
I have a question, I have fixed the heater, but in cold conditions there is always one side open and I think that in cold conditions it should be all close Pleaseadvise.
Hi I have 1995 e34 when I drive the car, the left side always blows hot air, but when I stop pressing the accelerator pedal, it blows warm right no problem on the right side I replaced the heater tap with a new one my r134 gas level is full but i can't solve the problem I need a idea thanks
Hello When I turn the key to posit II/engin off and heating off I can hear the auxilliary pum is working! I think something is wrong, that pump under this 2 valves should turn on when heating is on, should be off when heating is off, right?
Im getting a wet drivers side floor on my e36 after running the heat. no issues if the heat is shut off. wondering if it could be this, rather than the heater core. Heater core looks like hell to fix.
lol seems like u have a coolant leak,trace it down where the leak is coming,i doubt if its the valve,maybe the pipeing that comes into cabin and runs to core but probably the heater core itself,on other hand, heater core box is pretty sealed off so only way it would come from there it would come from the foot vents but you would probably have foggy windows if you heater core is leaking
I have a problem that I can't seem to solve. I started working on my first car, a 1960 MBZ at age 17, so I have a lot of experience but those cars were so simple I could fix it with my eyes closed. I got a 94 BMW 525 for a steal but have an over heating problem. It came with a new radiator and I've replaced water pump, fan clutch, thermostat with new metal housing. Problem is I lose coolant? tightened the head, compression test (seems good). Spark plugs all look the same. Can't see any leaks under the car. I even looked under the air intake manifold. Looks dry. If I take it out for a 30 min drive I lose about an inch of water. The only thing I can think of is a bad head gasket but no steam coming out of the exhaust? Anybody have any ideas? Thanks ( I'm getting too old for this but can't afford to take it to a dealer!)
