Thanks bro ! It was best explanation and all in detail. It did help who guy never changed oil. I wish you made video when you assemble and give us more information any electronic because lots connector are looks like same , when you open first time you don't pay much attention that you could forgot after week when get put together. Any way thanks
I am planning on getting a E91 Touring with the N52 engine soon and really enjoying your videos to learn more about what kind of things I may have to do as preventative maintenance.
That was a good explanation and video on that job. I think im going to remove mine and have a look at the valves on cylinder 5. For some reaon when I started my car it threw the rocker and the follower clean off. I found them both lying in the cylinder head, bought new parts from BMW but after fitting it back together I can lift the rocker off the valve.3mm clearance, so I might have a sticking or bent inlet valve on cylinder 5. The lifter is solid but of course you cant get it fully out without removing the inlet camshaft. Looks clean anyway, i managed to get it half out.
Hi George, thanks for going through this job so clearly. I was a bit apprehensive, but now feel I can tackle this. I have a feeling my starter motor is on the way out, so need to do this job to access before I’m stranded. By the way, I’d like one of those little electric wrenches, that looks like a real timesaver! Cheers mate!
@@GeorgeAusters thanks. I couldn’t see the link, perhaps it expired. I will certainly check your start motor video. Anything else worth doing whilst you’re in there? Knock sensor?
@@GeorgeAusters thanks, I’ve had a knock sensor code, could it be something else? Vanos? It’s not all the time just occasionally I get the ‘judders’ when accelerating. Fuel is fresh and from a good source, so should be high enough octane.
I’m starting to do this now on a 3.0 N52 Z4 Coupe. Got the throttle body off, but there’s a cable going into where the throttle body attaches that looks like it needs to come off, but I can’t shift it. Not enough room.
Great vid. One question… The hidden connections, shown after removal… Is it easy to work out where they connect to when reinstalling or best to label? Thanks.
I happen to still have two e39 528i -96 and 528iT -00. I got the same problem with the engines of both. At -30°C the motors stalled... Then I had oil all over the engine bay... Then we opened the engine and some cylinders where full of oil... After cleaning and putting back all parts the engine fired up as usual. The breather pipes and the whole system froze at low temperatures, unless you made some preparations. 1) Cover up the grille. 2) When coming home after a less than 15 km drive. Let the motor idle for some minutes till everything in the engine bay is warm. Then you may be have no water in these systems. Some other brands have/had electric heated pipes. I didn't have a 230 v engine heater either, but in the x3 I have.
It's same happened to my car it was -40 and I bet searched on it and every body saying ccv , I was stuck home anyways and open it found lots issued I could never notice , changed oil filter housing gasket, changed DISA, changed whole ccv pipes, now working on wire harness . It was more fun then my own job as machinist.
It's same happened to my car it was -40 and I bet searched on it and every body saying ccv , I was stuck home anyways and open it found lots issued I could never notice , changed oil filter housing gasket, changed DISA, changed whole ccv pipes, now working on wire harness . It was more fun then my own job as machinist.
just needing to access the inner rear bolt on the oil filter housing and may have rounded the bolt. soo need to hammer in my e10 socket. would it be sufficient enough to just remove the bolts from intake manifold to the engine and skip out the cables/and other bottom bolts? just need to move intake manifold to the side by a couple of inches. soo can access the oil housing bolt. will re-visit the intake manifold gaskets in the near future when parts are ordered.. what do you think? reckon just do the bolts and skip on disconnecting wirings and bottom or surrounding bolts? would appreciate your opinion/advise :)
From the front of the car lift the manifold and have both arms reaching round the back, like your bear hugging it, you might need a tiny flat head use both hands to wiggle and pick them out, the job is a pig, just because there is no space to move about, George made it look easier than it is, this job is not for the faint hearted, good look putting it all back together.
Out of interest, did you use a genuine breather hose or genuine BMW? Mine also broke, but now I’m wondering if to replace the hose (genuine/aftermarket) or replace the entire CCV including the return pipe…. What do you reckon?
Hey man I’ve been trying to install the intake manifold back on but the ccv hose at the bottom won’t clip on. Do you suggest putting the hose on first, then connecting it to the ccv?
Hi George, Did you replace your aluminium bolts for the intake manifold and the other bolts for the throttle body etc? Can you get away with using the old ones?
It’s been like this for approx 10k miles, clicks are more often and aggressive. I’m pretty convinced it’s the diff, I’m thinking of just biting the bullet and getting a used diff. What do you think?
When you start your car at the end it’s a bit lumpy mine does this also but only on startup like yours and sorts itself out within 5 seconds. Is this normal or is there something causing it?
@@GeorgeAusters will do now mate think I already watched it but worth another watch now 😂. Driveshaft went okay btw nice and easy. I noticed I don’t have reluctor rings mine are on the bearing 😁
Okay I see my car came up with code 2AA9. It is a 2006 BMW 330xi. Which sounded like it’s the smaller disa valve. From a video I watched it looked like it was right by that or on that intake valve.
@@GeorgeAusters I bought 630i with oil housing dripping a little bit, I ordered intake manifold gaskets as well, but found out that I don't need to take off manifold to replace gaskets for housing. everything else works perfect, so I am not sure if I should risk breaking something by taking off manifold, I don't want to break pcv hose as well, and If something fails there, then I can save my gaskets if I ever need to remove that manifold.
@@GeorgeAusters fair enough mate. Id be nice if you could at least advise what kind of brands to go for and which ones to avoid. Keep up the hard work mate.
I wouldn't try it yourself guys, I'm now stuck as one of the bolts holding the power cables has rounded off, and no way to remove it, so now it's sitting collecting rust
I was stuck too bro , when I was changing coolant housing filter , that little bolt bottom of corner ,not much space for drill or any any thing , almost have up then just drill hole bet smaller than L key then hammer it and put krazy clue then try slowly and it works .
