How much easier (if at all) is it to drop the front subframe on a RWD N52 6MT? On the AWD it looks like the steering rack and pinion is behind the subframe whereas I could have sworn on my E82 128i 6MT it was in front of the subframe. I plan on dropping it sometime soon in order to weld in an oil pan baffle.
You seem to have the weight of the car on the wheels, for tightening the control arm & sway bar bushing bolts, but without the stiffening plate in place. A big deal or not???
One of the best channels in regards to making the watcher get a genuine understanding of what is required to be done. Really clear, as some of us newbies dont make certain connections to things lmao.
Something NOBODY said about dropping the N51-52 non X-drive aluminum pan is that it CAN get blocked by the rear crank throw. So all you have to do is turn the crankshaft clockwise a bit. I got hung up trying to drop my pan for a day and a half because it was in the way. Turned crank a 1/4 turn and it dropped without issue.
@@alpinen52ny79 its the part of the back section of the crank that has an offset lobe for balance. For whatever reason, you can only see the rear one in N51
@@alpinen52ny79 nah for me it was because these guys NEVER said anything about the crank being able to be in the way. Knowing this, if the pan will not drop easily. The throw is in the way. Everything else was easy, it was the lack of knowledge the throw could be in the way.
Also employ the use of an inch pound torque wrench for pan bolts and set to a higher 72 in-lbs (vs low value of 6 ft-lbs on larger wrench) for more noticeable clicks.
I was afraid of dying with the engine falling on me so took it to the shop am I the only one who's tow hook didn't properly fit in the top support thread next to the valve cover?
@@fabiospataro9494 $700 to a shop that is known to be a good value. They charge $100/hour in theory. They did gasket + bolts + engine mounts too ( my parts from FCP) and then added a surprise control arm as one bolt broke in the process.
Here is a diagram for you; you can enter and search the parts numbers on FCPEuro.com to see what is available! etkbmw.cc/en/bmw/cars/E91/Tou/BMW+328xi+model+49555/USA/31/31_0718
I noticed when you had the wheels on to torque the control arms you didn't have the stiffening plate on, but when removing the stiffening plate you said not to lower the car back onto its wheels as things would shift around. Also, when torquing the control arms were the axal shafts just resting in place? I really appreciate the videos. I have the exact car and may attempt this soon.
not liable if you get hurt from this or something breaks on your car… but i think the whole “stiffening plate” warning is just a precaution. I saw the warnings printed on the bottom of the pan, it’s etched into the metal “DO NOT DRIVE WITHOUT STIFFENING PLATE”. but i have lowered it, driven, and even had the stiffening plate removed for a whole 2 weeks while driving the car around and nothing bad happened. I was working on it often and didn’t want to have to keep removing it over and over. I also don’t tighten it down super super tight, just enough so the bolts won’t loosen and the plate is on nice and tight.
Not trying to be rude, but the "alright my good people" got pretty repetitive and a little annoying.... Otherwise thank you for such a useful video. 🙏🏼
Oh man, my 2007 X3 with the N52 engine is leaking oil, and I'm pretty sure it's the oil pan gasket. My dad, who used to own the car, supposedly paid a mechanic to fix this leak, but it looks like either the mechanic did nothing or did a terrible job. I'm not about to pay someone else to do it again, but after watching this, Holy crap! I'm starting to think I might as well just live with the leak! It looks like too much work!
Great detailed video. I recommend if you are doing this at home to take your time and write down all of your torque specs. A lift makes it easy and fast but, not all have access to one.
