i never subs or comment or like, but BRO HOW A GUY WITH 400 subs can do a video with that QUALITY OF WORK ! insane bro, thanks for the help.I will go on the VTT 2inch i hope they will go in there lmao.thank,s mate
Thanks so much! That's probably the nicest comment I've ever had, lol. Yea, some of these videos are older, but I worked hard on them 🤣. I appreciate the kind words, and I'm glad it helped. I wish you luck on yours. Have an awesome week 🙃
You made me relive my nightmare 😂 Good Job, wish this was up when I did mine. Watched a few vids at the time however yours included tiny important details others did not mention eg: that evil little bracket near the rear turbo.
🤣 I know your pain. I tried to throw in minor details because sometimes that one screw or bracket can mess up your whole day, lol. Thanks for watching, have a great rest of your week 🙃
Yea, I've heard the distance of firewall to block is different on some builds. I REALLY wanted to prove that it could work, but it was going to waste an entire day if I didn't just drop the engine (which made it 100 times easier). My car was so close that even with the space, it was difficult to put the pipe flush on the turbo. This is why I recommend lowering it a bit for the majority of folks. The cost incurred would be less than $100, probably less than $50 locally sourced. They would have a new tool (engine hoist). Mostly though, they'll speed through the process and relax instead of struggle.
Why didn’t you lube up the rear inlet with vaseline and bend that bracket forward towards the motor that the old inlet sat infront of, there’s no way you couldn’t get a smaller silicone tube down the back of the motor I know for a fact you can install these without dropping the cradle
Lol, I did both of those in this video. I wasted WAY too much time trying to fit it in that way in order to help other folks that may want to shortcut it. Ultimately, dropping the engine was night and day faster, easier, and less stress. I should've done it from the start and saved a few hours. That is why I finalized with that. The fact of the matter is that some people's cars have the clearance, others' do not. My firewall is closer than others I've seen with the same car. I don't know if it's based on month/year, QC, newer parts (new engine mounts I had), or what, but it is. Some may have more room to work with, and they can go that route. That's why I did multiple methods and left the failed attempts in there, for reference and ideas. So, it's cool you can, but there was no way on mine. Maybe other people can skip lowering it too. It's trial and error.
It's definitely better, no question. It's not debatable like exhaust or charged piping diameter. It's 100% gains in every aspect without any loss or trade-offs. It's definitely worth the price, especially paired with DP's. 🙃
Yeah, no worries. It's a pretty affordable mod. It's just tedious. If you're really tight on cash, you MAY be able to get by without dropping the engine. If you can though, just do it from the start and make your life so much easier, lol. Good luck!
I asked the same thing initially. I was going to go for the full 2, but I'm so glad I did not. It is insane how little room is actually back there when you do this, lol! There is only one reason to go with 2, and that is if you plan on upgrading your turbos in the future. I do not plan on putting larger turbos on this car, so I did not. If you use the 2 on this car with stock turbos, you'll need a small silicone adapter to place inside each tube. There is barely any room to work under there, and it's hard enough to slip on the 1.75" without issue. Also, the tip is just the 1.75" or 2". The inlets widen to 2" or more on both models. Majority of the inlet will be identical between the two models. The only difference is that the 2" will have a larger opening on the tip to house the larger compressor housing on the turbo. That's just my 2 cents, but hands down I would go with the 1.75. Good luck with yours.
