The gearbox output shaft and the final drive UV joint are often "phased" so its important to ensure the keyed portion of the splines are lined up. Otherwise the shaft will be unbalanced and vibrate. Some models are like this others are not, so check first.
Small tip, always first remove the filling plug. If any previous owner molested the inner hex of the filling plug, you wont get stranded with an empty final drive that you can't refill. (dont ask me how i found this one out :-( )
These bearings is a permanent pain of this model, especially if you ride gravels & offroad. I made two polyoxymethylene (POM) bushings to replace bearings & installed it. I rode ~5000 km (include 2000 km of bad roads & gravel) all OK! If it will working well at 20-25k km, it will be very well! 1000mm×40mm POM rod costs approx 1500 RUR (20-25 USD) and some lathe work - cheapest replacement!
Very well done video! Should the bearings be torqued in the inverted sequence? RHS first because is is fixed, then the LHS for proper conical bearings compression, and finally the RHS locking nut?
When I bought mine I was told to torque to 160nm but my friends say its too much for these new bearings and just take the right one to 80nm and just 'nip' up the inside one. Can someone clarify?
