Ok, just finished this up and this video really helped. Couple things to note: 1 you definitely can pull the drive shaft without pulling the swing arm on the 2010 2 you can't replace the swing arm boot without removing the swing arm. Well, maybe you could but i tried for a few hours and it's just faster to remove the swing arm. 3 i didn't need a slide hammer or hammer out the right pivot. Simply lifting the swing arm so that there wasn't any weight on the pivot allowed me to simply slide it right out. I just put one of the longer screws in the middle and held onto it with pliers. Same thing for the install, didn't need to hammer it back on, just make sure there's no weight on it and it'll go in super easy. Just a tad bit of grease makes it even easier. 4 make sure there's no weight on the shock when you pull the bolts. They will come out easier and you don't want the FD slamming into the ground. 5 removing the rear shock was a huge pain because it was so tight in the swing arm. I had to use a pry bar to get it out and a dead blow hammer to position it back in. Just be careful when prying because the metal on the swing arm is soft. I put a small gouge in mine. 6 interestingly, the bearings didn't appear to be completely sealed on the inside of the swing arm. Just wondering to watch for because i noticed dirt on the inside of my swing arm.
Thanks, I needed to see someone tighten up the swingarm bolt (hex) and nut (tight!) and its good you could do it without the BMW tool that holds the hex still while tightening the 30mm nut. I've got the shocks off my K1300S and have sent them away for a refurb. When they come back I have the same nut arrangement on my front shock telelever, its the same as your swingarm. Thank you from Bournemouth UK !
I struggled to find replacement, but thanks to a forum , I found them at Bing carburant in north America. I did a small modification.. I drilled the shaft (2.5 mm) and did a tap ((M3). When I reassembled, I used a thin steel washer that covers most of the plastic and metal . I used a 2 components epoxy glue that I put on the washer . Then screwed a M3 screen with a thin head . I did that on both throttle bodies Hopefully, this will help to strengthen the pulley. It s been 3 years since and so far , so good. I keep my fingers crossed and mostly , I try to be as gentle as possible with the throttle.
How hard that shaft would be to remove depends a lot on the condition of the splines / circlip. In nice clean greased condition like that it'll come right off but I've had some corroded CV shafts on cars in the past that took multiple tons of hydraulic pressure to get the clip to pop out.
I've had to deal with that issue on cars as well. I had a Mini Cooper on the lift one day that would NOT let me remove the inner left CV. I finally just pulled the joint apart and dropped the transmission with the damn thing in place. It was in for a clutch. Other Minis just pop right out. Admittedly, I got lucky on this one. ( ;
Great video! Do you or any subscriber know anything about the driveshaft itself and the Torsion Dampener holding the two halves together? Is it possible for that rubber or polymer material to breakdown and cause what otherwise would seem to be clutch slippage? Thanks for any help and insight!
Question: When you installed the boot on the transmission first instead of installing the boot's plastic sleeve into the swingarm first' did you leave the sleeve out and just silicone the boot to the swingarm side?
