Hack A Week is about do it yourself projects. I periodically post a project video and a blog at www.hackaweek.com. Thanks for watching and... keep on hackin!
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this is the most complicated way to make something that requires absolutely no moving parts to accomplish. could have installed a diverter tap on the downspout and plumb the input pipe into the side of the barrel at the max water level you want in the barrel. when the barrel is full the water will bypass the input and flow out the spout. no moving parts needed
Mount the barrel higher up the wall and vent the lower downspout off the back of the top of the barrel to the drain. Way simpler. You get a little water pressure out of it.
Thanks for the videos! I bought a used Speed King pedal and it needs all these mods. On mine, the heal plate is reverse of what yours is and also the screw and weird washer underneath are missing, which makes it easy to change from one side to the other.
Where can we contact you? We would like to communicate with you about some of our existing items and provide them to you. If you are interested, please send us a message.
Hi deane. I dont know if this is still open .I was trying to adjust throttle cables but I am on the last thread at handgrip and carb end . Is it ok to adjust the housing that lines up and puls the cable I adjusted the offset pin that stops the return cable . It has given me enough , as long as I'm doing no harm .for the same carbs as this video . Cheers jamie Newzealand.
@@HackaweekTV thankyou for replying and understanding what I was explaining . And it's been suggested that top breather hoses near top of carbs ,two of them should go up over and passed the battery. Atm they just run down to the swingarm . Thorts ?
Hi , Excellent video! Very specific, but I would go crazy removing so many screws. I have a 2008 Mini Cooper and they did this same job for me where they install radios. If I had seen your video before, maybe I would have done it. Not all of us have the same ability .
Thank you so much for this video I was having problems with my 2007 2200 GS rear brake not working after I tried to bleed followed your tutorial and bled abs unit have rear brake again 👍👍
Intéressant, mais avant de découper les coins, je commencerais par essayer de graisser le système et surtout, je mettrait une couverture en dessous des valises travailler dessus ou pour faire une vidéo 😟😃
En utilisant Google Translate ici. J'ai essayé de les lubrifier mais cela n'a pas aidé. Le lubrifiant retient également la saleté. Le problème est dû au retrait du plastique dû à l’exposition au soleil. Cela ne me dérangeait pas de travailler dessus au sol car ils étaient déjà un peu rayés.
Problem is, you are measuring the width of the curtain slit AND the width of the sensor. As the 'shutter speed' gets faster (it does not, shutter moves at the same speed) the slit narrows (which causes shorter exposure, not the shutter mech moving faster) the ratio of slot width to sensor width decreases, thus you get a greater and greater error as 'speed' increases. e.g for a flash sync of 1/30s on a 35mm camera, slot width will be 36mm & sensor width, say 2mm. At 1/500s. slot with will be 2.25mm (36/2 =18 18/2=9 9/2=4.5 4.5/2=2.25mm) so at 1/500s, sensor is almost as wide as the slit. A single sensor will also not show the curtain speeds. there are two curtains, which need to move at the speed stated in the repair manual, to give correct exposure and they both must travel at the same speed.
@@HackaweekTV Indeed. It might also encourage others to get into the world of Arduino I use EPS32 now, on the Arduino platform. Only a few £ more but gives much more versatility and speed. Normally, a camera is tested without the lens. By doing this and taking separate readings from both left and right side of the lens mount, one can see if the exposure is even across the frame. Adding a mask in front of the sensor will improve accuracy at higher shutter speeds. Try a mask with 0.8mm hole. I used the Arduino laser tx & rx module. Laser gives a nice collimated light source and the rx has built in Schmitt trigger and amplifier. My tester became a monster. Three sensors, to show exposure balance across the frame & to measure curtain speeds. Connection to flash socket to test sync speed. 4" TFT colour screen. Full diagnosis, showing rolling average, nearest, deviation from centre etc. Once you start programming with Arduino, you just can't stop 😀
At the end of the thrust burn there is a small explosive charge that ignites. When this happens it produces hot expanding gasses that propel the fire proof tissue, nose cone and parachute away from the rocket tube.
