Superb videos, thank you! You explain things very well and your videos are thorough. The only extra step I would consider is to always wipe the disc with brake cleaner after you have manipulated it so that the grease off your hands does not contaminate the pads. Small step but makes the job perfect.
@alainleblanc4031 In over 50 years working on cars and bikes, (ex Police workshops and servicing Rally cars on the circuit of Ireland) wiping the pads, disks, or brake shoes to remove fingerprints has to be the stupidest and most idiotic suggestion I’ve ever heard, it’s not going to the moon, that residue will be gone within the first 30 seconds of use.
Hey thanks a lot. I’m considering going from a 2008 RT to a 2017. I was a bit overwhelmed with all the technology adds and worried I would be able to continue doing my own maintenance. This gives me confidence. Thanks a ton!!
I cannot see in the video, are the u-joints still in phase? I believe the cause of the BMW drive shaft failure is the that the cush in the shaft deforms. Causing the u-joints out of alinement. Out of alinement u-joints cause binding on every revolution of the shaft. The binding in the u-joints cause wear in the u-joint bearings. Thank you for the videos and being an independant BMW mechanic. I try send customers your way. Curt
Thinking of picking up an 01 R1100 RT-P, and I expect any videos like this will be really useful in addition to the service manual! It's always nice to see the work being done first by someone who knows what they're doing! Thanks for your hard work!
Great video. BMW replaced the shark on my 2019 R1250GSA with 2,300mls on it. It failed the test when getting serviced. The technician told me the price of the shafts has drastically dropped her in the UK. I’m guessing it’s because so many out of warranty bikes needed them and BMW central was trying to ward off the bad publicity, much like the disastrous use of the Hayes callipers. Kindest regards from Bonnie Scotland. Joe.
Here in the UK I just had a letter from BMW stating that the K50’s series to K54, 1200 & 1250, have their card a shaft replaced every 36,000miles and it’s carried out free by BMW! And for the life of the vehicle, so they will replace it every 36000 miles. They also recommend inspecting and greasing the shaft every 12000 miles.
Doesn't look that bad , very important to lube the splines so doesn't rust and becomes solid with the rest of the bike. And yes you can replace the U joints , I had my done for the fraction of the price for a new shaft , I paid around 150€ for 2 new joints, paint , shipping and labour. Here in Spain the shaft is around 900€ new. Now after BMW admits it is a serviceable item, now they recommend to lube every 20.000K ,and change if necessary with 60.000K , 80.000K for the new 1300GS I think there is a new part nº for much less money.
So far, so good 💪 But please use Silikon Spray instead of WD 40. It's a greasing spray, keeps the junction between rubber and aluminium housing kind of more water tight and the rubber flexible. WD 40 is no lubricant, it's a solvent... What about the additional water valve / drainage at the bottom of the driveshaft housing, BMW recommends in the latest call to be installed by the dealership ?? Have'nt heard of it yet ? The reason for all the trouble is water getting in the housing through the rubber hose and not finding a way out and in the end causing rust at the driveshaft ... It's an official worldwide recall by BMW for 440000 bikes!!!
Relatively easy/straight forward job, but as I stated in the psst, these K1600's can become huge money-pits, that probably should be traded before the 3/year-36K mile warranty, that or at least get an extended warranty that you should read any fine print to not be taken with fine print BS.
Hi from Queensland Australia, great channel with excellent explanations, Thank you. I have a 2006 R1200gsa with just 35,000km on it and even though it's a bit clunky down low, it runs well and I love it. The one issue I have is with the steering and more to the point the front end wobbles if I take my hands off the bars (at any speed). I have had the wheels balanced, I have changed weight around on the bike, tried everything but can't fix the problem. I have not been able to find a GS-related video on the subject, Can you give me some advice. Thanks Tony
Hello, I have a R1150R that makes a mechanical noise towards the transmission when I put the gas in neutral but when I press the clutch this noise stops. Do you know if I should be worried and what the problem is please. Thank you very much and thank you for all these videos. See you soon from a friend in France
Another informative upload. According to BMW, the shock is a non serviceable part and requires a new shock also. Would be interested to find out if there is a company re-conditioning shafts. Also my 2019 gs shaft failed and it failed on fractions of a millimeter, something that wouldn't be noticed by a rider, so by that logic, the one in the upload failed a long time ago
The drive shaft broke on my K1300R (100,000km), while driving, and it certainly not blocked the rear wheel. How could that be? It simply started reving without transmitting any power. Nothing more, nothing less.
But what oil did you put in? Gear oil? what oil? My O-ring died and I have no oil there, I need to put some but I don't have time now for repairing O-ring... What oil goes there?
I'm riding an '06 R1200RT-P. Any way to diagnose the driveshaft without removing it besides feeling a vibration like your other job? Put it on the center stand, put it in gear and move the rear wheel back and forth? Use a stethoscope and listen near the boot as it runs in gear?
Both the male and female splines should have the moly grease “scrubbed into” the full length of the splines with, e.g. a small toothbrush. Grease in haste, regret at leisure, IMHO.
I have a 2016 1200RT with 14,000 miles. This bike has always had rough shifting from 1st to 2nd gear and some from 2nd to 3rd gear at higher RPM. I've seen others complain about this as well. It's flawless when the engine is cold but becomes rought as it warms up. I've learned to shift at low RPM's until I'm in 3rd gear. Is the thinner oil is the problem? Any thoughts???