Learn tips, tricks and shortcuts for repairing and maintaining your BMW motorcycle from a Master Certified BMW Motorcycle Technician. I aim to be professional and provide everyone with a straight to the point viewing experience, if there is anything you want to see covered or something you are struggling with at home just let me know and ill be sure to make a video to help you out. Have a Safe Ride -The BMW Guy
Awesome video! Thank you so much for explaining the job clear and simple. I will do this job on my 1200 RT in the next days. And of course, I subscribed to your channel 👍🏻
On all watercooled boxers there is a recall for the driveshaft, if you go to the dealer you get a free driveshaft replacement. They replace it for free every 60000km. does not have to be dealer maintained. Got a new one at 98000km, next one at 158000km miles.
Very well done video. Did that clutch kit have marks for balance orientation? I recently did the clutch on my 89 R100gs. The kit was a Sachs kit from EME and it was marked. I thought all BMW kits would have marks. I have just found your channel, so maybe you have already done this, but doing some videos like this with a paralever would be helpful. Definitely more of a pain removing the driveshaft than on the older models.
Looks like the Finally found out, that the old system with hall sensors were lousy. I installed a system like that on a Guzzi with permanent magnet, and they had sen me the wrong sensor, not particularly impressed with that Sachse Ignition. 😡
My shop manual calls for measuring and adjusting the rocker arm end play before adjusting the valve clearances. Do you find the end play out of spec very often? Asking for a guy who doesn’t own a degree wheel… Thanks
Good video. I am prepping to do this on a '01 1150GS. Is there a major difference when dealing with a ABS-equipped bike or is the ABS block not a hangup point?
Really enjoyed watching your video as I am a BMW airherad owner. You reused the flywheel mount bolts and the driveshaft connecting bolts which the shop manual says must be replaced along with the clutch bolts. You just unbolted the clutch with out the let out bolts despite the shop manual warning of the posibility of severe injury, and survived to tell the tale. I would be interested to hear your thoughts in the comments. Thanks
Question, do you know why some people on the boards have a 30 mm socket with some part of it cut out for some reason? Like what's the purpose for that? Also what speciality tools are needed for this beyond the alignment tool and would you happen to know about what clutch pieces someone usually wants to purchase for this job?
Coming from a former auto technician, I would like to say I think you are very knowledgeable and professional in your presentations. Refreshing to have information explained without all of the profanity or throwing of tools or blaming the manufacturer.
Hello, I have a R1150R that makes a mechanical noise towards the transmission when I put the gas in neutral but when I press the clutch this noise stops. Do you know if I should be worried and what the problem is please. Thank you very much and thank you for all these videos. See you soon from a friend in France
This video is a true master class, both in how to do the mechanical work, and how to make a video showing how to do the mechanical work! It is simply awesome! Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to produce such a superior and helpful video. David
good advice don't sit at the lights with your clutch lever pulled in ,i had a R80/7 i was in athens greece when the clutch piston sheared so grateful to the BMW dealer who not only had the parts but sent a guide with me to get me back to the campsite where my bike was i think there is an upgrade piston bearing available this video takes me back
I own a k1600b but I enjoy watching almost anything involving motorcycle wrenching. Mainly because you never know what your next ride that you add to your garage will be. Also, I do enjoy your videos. Always good content.
I did this same job to my 82rs model, not ever having done it before. Because the bmw was new to me, I went in there to check the splines, to swap in a new main seal, and to replace the oil pump and O ring there. All went pretty well, but my hate for the drive shaft boot is strong, fussing with the 12mm bolts, in and out of gear, along with the hose clamp is curse worthy work. You should go through the cam shaft blocking tip, its not that hard to rig for prevention. Also - you can fabricate some of the tools you used - drawings of the main seal installer, the clutch aligner, and more are online, and can be 3d printed, or fabricated.
I’ve always struggled with black dipsticks and checking my k1600s oil level. I’m going to check it after my journey home tonight, takes me roughly 40 minutes and the weathers warm. How long would you recommend letting it sit and cool down before checking?
I'm watching these to learn :-) Don't have a bike but strongly pondering to get one, likely a K1x00 but learning how bikes in general are built gives better understanding of the systems in general since I'm more familiar with cars.
First of all, thank you for this video, it helped me with my recent driveshaft boot change on my R100. However, trying to get that rubber boot back on both sides at the end is an absolute nightmare. Finally got it after a few beers while screaming the song "John Deere Green" with some help from my girlfriend. 🤣🤣🤣
i don’t have a bmw. I want to get one as I am retiring soon. I am interested in getting a K1200GT or a K1300GT. I heard they have bad clutches, so to learn about their clutches, I found your channel. Thanks for the videos!
I have a 1200C oil head and have 42,000 on it. I think it’s about time for a through service and clutch upgrade and this just gives me confidence to tackle the job over the winter.
