Both of my front valves were a 5/16s wrench. Will say the left side was a tiny bit harder to install than the other valves. Did a little more research. I ordered the stainless steel versions. The 6100(front left) SS is 0.5mm longer than the standard steel version. So, when torquing it down it kept turning in and compressed the flow hole a tiny bit. Not enough to matter, I think. But for anyone reading this, just be super careful about not over tightening. And, the regular steel version is a slightly better fit. The other valves fit perfectly.
Thanks for the video very clear and easy to understand. Question : when you mention keep min-max oil to make sure is not lowing min in both reservoirs is this prior obd connection and starting the process ? Second comment: Obd GS-911 is pretty expensive to purchase in order to save $250 not considering new valves and plastic pouch . This process done at 1 year and every 2 years after. Is a better saving out there by using the obd ?
The min/max level on the brake fluid reservoir is while you are actually bleeding the brakes. Once you tighten the bleed valve you can fill up to the max line. Does that make sense? Yes, the GS-911 is expensive, but when you use it repeatedly it begins to make sense. Reset service reminder every 6k miles, program in TPMS, and brake flush every other year. The are other option using the MotoScan app, although I have no personal knowledge.
On the initial flush before the GS911, do you just top the reservoir off to the MAX line and then bleed out until it's down to the MIN line or how much fluid are you looking for to be in each bag so you know you got most of the old stuff out? And, When you run the GS911 routine; you top off the reservoirs, leave the bleed valves open and reservoirs open, but don't have to worry about adding fluid during the GS911 process? Thanks
Good question and let me try to answer. Before I start with the GS-911, I bleed each brake one at a time. If you have the Speed Bleeder valves, then it is a 1-man job. Open the valve, pump the brake from max to min on the reservoir, then close the valve. Rinse a repeat for the other brakes one at a time. If you notice air in the tube then I would continue flushing until the fluid runs clear with no air bubbles. So when you are done with the three brakes, all of the valves are closed and the reservoir is back to max. Now you can run the Flush 1 using the GS-911. I hope this is clear and answers your question.
Do you activate the gs911 flush process 3 separate times for each caliper for a total of 9? How much fluid is needed for the entire flush? Thank you very much for the help with this.
No, the flush is two times total, but I do 1 bleed before I start to make it three. You’ll probably only use a few ounces for all three brakes. I bleed/flush each brake one at a time and then run the GS-911 to complete the flush procedure. I hope this makes sense.
Thanks. I did some reading and ir seems they have metric threads but empirical wrenches? That seems idiotic, why on earth should we need another set of tools just for bleeding. 😅 Does anybody make them for metric spanners?
@useless274 Yeah funny point. The threads need to fit the brake calipers, which are metric, but made by a company in the US that uses SAE fittings. It is strange when you think about it.
Good question. I bleed each brake one at a time and then run FLUSH 1 on the GS-911 activating both front and rear brakes as directed by the GS-911. I hope that answers your question.
@@PacMoto on the left front can I remove the larger nut holding the brake line to the caliper that my broken bleeder valve is threaded into and buy the larger replacement nut to thread a new bleeder valve into?
@johnmclucas4865 If I understand you correctly, yes, just keep in mind that gravity will cause the brake fluid to drain out. So, be prepared for that. Check the parts catalogue at Max BMW to make sure you know the right part number.
