These PacMoto Adventures videos are focused on performing your own maintenance on BMW motorcycles. The focus is on water-cooled R1200 models. Soon I will add maintenance videos for R1250 models. Subscribe and stay tuned! You can purchase your maintenance supplies at pacmototours.com/store. These videos are sponsored by PacMoto Adventures at pacmototours.com.
@@PacMoto on the left front can I remove the larger nut holding the brake line to the caliper that my broken bleeder valve is threaded into and buy the larger replacement nut to thread a new bleeder valve into?
@johnmclucas4865 If I understand you correctly, yes, just keep in mind that gravity will cause the brake fluid to drain out. So, be prepared for that. Check the parts catalogue at Max BMW to make sure you know the right part number.
Thanks for the video very clear and easy to understand. Question : when you mention keep min-max oil to make sure is not lowing min in both reservoirs is this prior obd connection and starting the process ? Second comment: Obd GS-911 is pretty expensive to purchase in order to save $250 not considering new valves and plastic pouch . This process done at 1 year and every 2 years after. Is a better saving out there by using the obd ?
The min/max level on the brake fluid reservoir is while you are actually bleeding the brakes. Once you tighten the bleed valve you can fill up to the max line. Does that make sense? Yes, the GS-911 is expensive, but when you use it repeatedly it begins to make sense. Reset service reminder every 6k miles, program in TPMS, and brake flush every other year. The are other option using the MotoScan app, although I have no personal knowledge.
So, completed my repair this morning. Taking the right side guide rail off is actually a lot simpler than it seems. No filing necessary. Just used a small pair of needle nose vise grips, and using hand pressure only (not locking them) to hold the upper machine screw, broke the tension loose on the lower then unscrewed the guide from the top screw with my fingers. Slid it down, took the broken bracket off, installed the new one and put it back together. All together about 10 minutes of work from the first to last screw turn. But probably could do it faster.
@@PacMoto were talking about the same side, the side with the actual crank on it. The throttle side. Starboard for all the navy folks. House left for thos of us in the audience Stage right if the rider was an actor The "proper right" for medical illustrators. The Dexter if the bike was heraldry
Is it necessary to torque the drain plug to 20 Nm knowing it is in oil? Would a lower torque ( 15 Nm ) be ok ? On the label of the oil container, BMW advises us to use the oil in the 4 years following the production date. Is that important? Thank you sir, Marc Quebec Canada 🇨🇦😉🏍
The drain plug torque spec is 42 Nm. I suggest using the factory recommendation. Tell me more about what you mean by use the oil for 4 years? I’ve not heard that before.
does anyone know what is the Product # for the Spacer? i accidentally lost it and now not able to locate the Product# for it, i have a 2016 GSA , any response will be much appreciated.
The bmw regulator rectifier specs for a 2014 gs caution not for use with lithium batteries? Do you think you might cause damage to your bikes charging system?
Thanks. I did some reading and ir seems they have metric threads but empirical wrenches? That seems idiotic, why on earth should we need another set of tools just for bleeding. 😅 Does anybody make them for metric spanners?
@useless274 Yeah funny point. The threads need to fit the brake calipers, which are metric, but made by a company in the US that uses SAE fittings. It is strange when you think about it.
How would you compare Compadre trail to Laguna Hanson Trail? We just completed the trail and it was sandy when we went trough it, does compadre trail have similar condition?
Good question. Overall The Compadre Trail was fine. We did it on three R1200GS motorcycles. One must always inquire about the current conditions. When I made that video it was shortly after heavy rains (and dried out) whereby the road had a bunch of ruts. Ultimately I was going too fast in a technical area.
Great video! I just did my RT. Used dealer BMW oil in 1-liter bottles. In a crunch... I fully drained it hot right after a 12-mile ride to the dealer. I removed the filter first. Got lunch while it drained. Then I installed the new filter and filled it with 4 liters. The site glass showed the level at the top of the site glass's red ring. I rode it for a hundred miles. No leaks. Now the site glass shows completely full with no gap at the top. So the level is over the red ring. Why is the prescribed 4 L too much? Will it blow up on Friday when I leave for a 4-day trip to the mountains?
I’ve done tons of oil changes and have NEVER need 4L to fill up the bike. Even when I do a valve clearance check. There is alway residual oil in the engine. Moral of the story is to fill up to the mid-way point and then go for a short ride and top off as necessary.
Just adding my thanks for making this video. I thought no one could possibly have had this same problem much less made a video about it! Looks like this problem is more common than I thought. Any ideas why? Design flaw?
You are 100% incorrect. Page 246 from the manual clearly states that the engine oil specification is SAE 5w40, API SL, JASO MA2. Many engine oils meet this specification. The BMW Advantec oil simply a recommendation, not a requirement. Furthermore, BMW simply rebrands other oils made by other manufacturers.
@@PacMoto thanks much! I did my first tire swap and forgot to check for spacers after pulling the wheel. Then when I went to put it back on and saw only one spacer..
Thanks for the video, very helpful. What a bloody performance just to change an air filter! Obviously DIY servicing does not feature highly on BMW designers' list of priorities.
thank you for the detailed step-by-step guide, just got the Carbo 2x and have the C3Pro. I saw the video only then went ahead and bought the Carbo 2x, knowing i could install it with a peace of mind.
You don’t need to mess with the brakes to remove/replace the rear wheel. Here is a video on replacing the rear brakes. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N7opeaHzQTM.html
On the initial flush before the GS911, do you just top the reservoir off to the MAX line and then bleed out until it's down to the MIN line or how much fluid are you looking for to be in each bag so you know you got most of the old stuff out? And, When you run the GS911 routine; you top off the reservoirs, leave the bleed valves open and reservoirs open, but don't have to worry about adding fluid during the GS911 process? Thanks
Good question and let me try to answer. Before I start with the GS-911, I bleed each brake one at a time. If you have the Speed Bleeder valves, then it is a 1-man job. Open the valve, pump the brake from max to min on the reservoir, then close the valve. Rinse a repeat for the other brakes one at a time. If you notice air in the tube then I would continue flushing until the fluid runs clear with no air bubbles. So when you are done with the three brakes, all of the valves are closed and the reservoir is back to max. Now you can run the Flush 1 using the GS-911. I hope this is clear and answers your question.
Thanks for this video - most helpful! 😀 Fiddly job but your vid made the task much easier :0). Nice fresh C3 Pro lid, ready for the road again. 🏍 Thanks & Blessings, D
I enjoyed the video and it was helpful. I used a chisel that is scooped to relieve some of the styrofoam instead of a Dremel tool for better control. I would recommend not doing the following: 1. pushing wires with a screwdriver but using a Q-tip or something soft. 2. Not clipping the neckband to prevent wires from being pinched from the Packtalk unit. That band needs to be one piece as designed. Fastening without clipping the band doesn't do any damage to the wires that I can see so far. I haven't found an adhesive that bonds well to styrofoam as the speakers dislodge at times and need resetting in place. Does anyone have a solution besides adhesive-backed velcro?
Good question. I bleed each brake one at a time and then run FLUSH 1 on the GS-911 activating both front and rear brakes as directed by the GS-911. I hope that answers your question.
Both of my front valves were a 5/16s wrench. Will say the left side was a tiny bit harder to install than the other valves. Did a little more research. I ordered the stainless steel versions. The 6100(front left) SS is 0.5mm longer than the standard steel version. So, when torquing it down it kept turning in and compressed the flow hole a tiny bit. Not enough to matter, I think. But for anyone reading this, just be super careful about not over tightening. And, the regular steel version is a slightly better fit. The other valves fit perfectly.
