BMW R80 RT to S Conversion #1 - How to properly drain the fluids 

Very happy to find this series. Just picked up my first beemer which is an 85 mono. I will repay my appreciation soon through either download or product. Thank you sir!!

William you are a delight to watch, thank you for your fine work.

Welcome back, I look forward to this next build!

This is fantastic. I loved the last series and learned so much, thank you for doing these.

The best vídeos / explanations on bikes I ever watched. William u r number 1

I am working on my 1987 RT65 single arm! How nice to see you on this very similar bike! Love it man!!

Tremendous stuff guys! Love William and looking to learn more from him. Hopefully you guys will do some films on the R100RS.

Great your back big thumbs up from a huge English fan in Germany

You are absolutely amazing!!! I've been looking for a clear video on this for forever for my 78 R100RS. This will make me so much more confident during the next fluid change!

Another great video William. I thoroughly enjoyed your last series and, owning both a 1988 R100RS mono and a 1994 R100RT mono, I've really been looking forward to this next series. Currently doing a full restoration on my RS, I know this series will help me greatly.

Hi Bill, That was excellent! This just brings me right back to the good old days. I learned so much from you. Just today I was offered an opportunity to acquire an '86 R80RT and with a quick search found this video. I'm so happy to see your continued success with BMWs and in a new hometown. Thank you. DH

Thank you William what a quality video and presentation! Love it!

Thanks William, you've been a big help as I try to get my Dad's 76 R90S back into proper order

My pack-mule for the Americas: '91 R100 GSPD; 264,000 Miles (purchased new), she's never outright crapped out on me... always gave me fair warning... been through several Kardan drive shafts (latest modified for zerk fittings/u-joint bearings). Euro-tourer: '83 R80RT, purchased used from Swiss Beemer dealer (previous owner had traded in on a new beemer... he was 68 at the time ;-)... Swiss-owned bikes are usually a best buy; due to stringent Swiss vehicle inspection standards. Now upgraded to 1000cc, Nikasils (used) with original R80 heads ("squish-zone" modified + lead free seats, updated valve train...) R80 32mm carbs (new main jet); dual plugged (shrink tubing mod for ignition "Bean Can"... limit advance).. higher compression ratio (9.5+ ?) due to upgrade... "longer"/"taller" 5th gear to compensate for original rear end... still has the R80 torque band "sweet spot" on "kurven-reiche" mountain roads... pulls like a racing tractor... Beemer dealer keeps trying to sell me a new one... ain't gonna happen in this lifetime.

William, thank you for the extremely informative videos. I've been looking for quite some time for an unmolested 1987 R80 nono and I purchased one today in excellent condition with only.29k original miles. Looking forward to watching your R80 series. Thanks again.

Great video. Thank you. Chose a late R80 for many of the reasons you covered at the start of the video.

I was holding my breath as you installed the circuits on that master link. Great video!

Greetings from Munich! In 1989 I bought a R90/6 that I still drive today. So I was very happy to watch your exellent videos about your restauration of that old Gummikuh. In 2016 I was lucky enough to aquire a R80 from an old gentleman from Baureuth who told me, he planned to ride this beauty when he had enough time to do so. The mileage was about 2800 Kilometers, and when we discused the price his cellphone rang about 15 times. I was very lucky that this guy was buzy as hell till the very day. So I got a pratically new old Bike, although I had to replace may seals and gaskets and do all of the basic maintenance stuff. What a surprise to see the same type now undergoing a refit in your garage, Will! The mono´s roadholding is way better that the old frame (especially if you put radial tyres like Conti Classic Attack on it). The engine is kinda toothless though, the 1000cc-conversion is really worth the money. Howevery, I´ll enjoy my nice 800cc. This year I hopefully will show Italy to her, tho poor thing hasn´t seen much of the world yet - I´m gonna change that. Ride - wrench - repeat! Best regards and keep on the nice videos!

I enjoyed your fine example of workflow and appreciate your tips re: fiber-filled crush washers and Liqui Moly products. All contribute to maintaining peace-of-mind when maintaining our air-cooled BMWs.

Thanks for this video's! I got a r80rt monolever 1990 from my grandfather. This video's will help me to restore the bike!!

Thank you so much for your sharing your time and extensive knowledge. I have owned many Beemers over the years and have been to alot of tech sessions at rallies. You are definitely the real deal as Master Tech.

These vids are amazing. Working on a ‘81 R100RT. Thank you!

Thanks William, great video. I've a 95 R80RT that has just over 110,000 miles under her wheels that, as her second rider, I've owned for around 20 years. Riden daily until a few years back, I just can't entertain the idea of parting with her. Watching your video has encouraged me to get her back on the road to share a few more adventures. Thank you, keep them coming.

Such a great vid. I really appreciate your sharing what to a certain extent has become rarified information.

Thanks Bud,......A great lead up to the job I have to do on a mate's R80/85 come Wednesday. It has been sitting for twenty years with the occasional run round the lawn but he wants it going again road wise so I won the deal. Looking forward to it as I have never worked on BMW bikes before,.......Hope I can find the rest of your Vids. Learnt heaps just watching this one! Regards, Alpal Hansen Dodgydane81 New Zealand.

Just purchased an '83 R80 RT as a donor for a new project and cannot tell you how much this video series will help, as I am new to old air heads. My bike is not a mono lever, but still enough commonality for your guidance. Thanks much and so pleased with the video quality of your series....you guys are the best!

Thanks for the video, bought my first bike_ so helpful thanks!

Perfect, exactly what I needed to know, thanks for sharing :-)

Thank you. New airhead owner and this was great

Great video, thank you!

You guys are great

Fantastic and Thanks very much for your excellent Tutorial.

I have a '77RS and would love to have the RT faring

These videos are glorious and a wealth of knowledge. Thank you for sharing! I just bought a rougher 86 r80rt and the oil dipstick is frothy and chocolate milk colored. What troubleshooting order would you do to figure out why and fix the root problem?

Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/bmw-r80-rt-monolever-episode-1.html

Superior videos, and nice shop!

I love this guy

Thank You.

What if I have the metal washer before the white o ring?

Exceptions: lack of "C" clip (and requisite groove) on front end of Transmission Output Shaft; the lack of "C" clip allowed 5th gear and bearing to shift forward, ultimately negatively effecting gear alignment, accelerating wear. First versions of Valeo permanent magnet (PM) starters (reducing overall current draw during start cycle): the first version had permanent magnets glued in place, glue would break down, loosening magnets and locking/destroying the starter.... later versions changed to clip retainers for magnets (problem solved). Bosch 0 120 340 "...005" (previously 20A) vs. Bosch 0 120 340 "...008" (17A) alternators: Used thinner wire (smaller gauge) for stator windings... allowing more turns per winding to fit in stator housing; this improved induced current at lower RPM (charging started earlier... theoretically around 1200RPM... less "GEN" light flicker) Generally, alternator Rotor DCR was reduced from 3.7 to 3.4/3.2ohm... consequently also improved 14.4V (preferred) AGM Battery charging voltage (vs. "Slosh Battery" - 13.6V) ; However, due to thinner stator winding wire, max current output rating was reduced from 20A to 17A (street story: no transmission warantee if not wearing BMW boots)

Like the video, as always, but I've got to differ (and agree) with you on some points as between twin shock vs. monoshock. I think there are some tradeoffs that aren't necessarily positive. Tubeless v. tube type tires. Tubeless are (maybe) easier to install than tube type, but not so outside of a professional shop, especially with some brands of tires with stiff side walls. You can, maybe, plug a flat in a tubeless on the road, but maybe not. And you're only supposed to drive on a plug to go get a new tire. You cannot re-seat a tubeless tire on the road. You can, in theory, patch a tube, even more than once, and even quite large holes, with self-vulcanizing patches. (Fortunately, I've never had to do either). If the puncture is small, you can drive normally on a patched tube. Patches, if well done, hold indefinitely. Monoshock is expensive, perhaps even more expensive than a pair of twin shocks. Also, slightly harder to replace, since you can't use one shock to support the rear drive and bike. Wheel bearings in monoshock are maintenance free (meaning, replace when failed), but roller bearings, if given some maintenance, and not abused (i.e. pressure washing) will last many years. However, the large ring gear bearing in monoshock rear drives do fail occasionally, since it is carrying both drive and shock loads. The play that was noticed in the rear wheel of the example featured in the video could just be a need for re-shimming the bearing, or it could be the bearing is failing. Or it could be that the bearing will fail if not re-shimmed. And if you're going to re-shim, you might as well replace the bearing. That bearing, by the way, is now $154.77. Add labor, and you're looking at a $400 repair, at least. In the twin shock models, these loads are carried by three bearings instead of one. Also, the later drive shafts which run dry fail. There's little difference in braking between the twin disc models with two-piston Brembo calipers, save the later four-piston calipers. And, lastly, of course the "C-clip" issue. Styling is, of course a personal choice, but it's not hard to make a case that the earlier models are styled better. Some of the later monoshock models were equipped with the SHED evaporative emissions system which was complicated (mostly removed on all these bikes by now). The later style plastic bag mounts are sturdier; the metal frames will fatigue and break over time. This was a definite positive improvement. The later center stand is a definite improvement.

I would have loved to see how you refilled the transmission, The fill plug is almost completely vertical. Special funnel? It would take forever with a syringe.

You forgot about the large hollow stiff from axle.

What is engine oil capacity of BMW R80RT 1989 without oil cooling .

Great video William, so much helpful information. I have a 94 R100RT I recently bought and pulled the front end out for some servicing and tarting up replacing fork boots etc. When I removed the front wheel I discovered it wouldn't slip out between the calipers without removing them so I took them off as they were coming off anyway. I noticed your red R80 has a flex line on the left side mine is on the right and has a solid pipe joining the 2 calipers that goes across under the guard. Is there an easy way to remove the front wheel without opening the brake lines. I had heaps of trouble bleeding the brakes after reinstalling them bleeding from the top and reverse bleeding from the bottom tapping calipers etc. There about 80% good now but I know they can be better. I noticed you used a vacuum style to bleed brakes on the white bike. What are your thoughts on these little issues I have. Thanks Noel

Hi William. I have a very similar bike to the one at the start of the video (but with an RS fairing). Could you tell me where you sourced your paint from to do the 'S' fairing on your bike? There doesn't appear to be anyone on this side of the pond (southern England) who can supply Colorado Red (code 613). Did you use an existing, available colour that is very close to the original? Great videos by the way!

I have the same bike same year already naked but I may add the S fairing from my /7 to this bike. I noticed when you took the bike out to warm up before draining the fluids there was a familiar squeal from the dual front disk brakes. My bike has the same dual disk set up with new rotors and new pads and I can’t get rid of the squeal that happens at slow speeds. I read that this was an issue with these models with these brakes. Perhaps you will be addressing that in future videos.. if not I would be curious if you have a solution. Once again these are great videos thanks.

Great overalls! Who makes them?

My Bmw service book tells to remove the oil filter before draining the pan. Is there any reason why they suggested that? Keep up the good work! Cheers! David from Italy

Could you show how to remove the RT fairing as if you were going to reinstall it? (Not Sawzalling it off ) .I'm resurrecting an '85 RT, and as a younger man toured with it, and liked the fairing. Ps... anything we need to know about lubing the splines on this model ? Your opinions on the infamous circlip... or lack of one... in the transmissions ? Thanks !

If the transmission shifts well, and is quiet, I don't see why you would tear into it. I do think, however, that the main bearing on the ring gear is worn out. This is an inferior design since the one bearing carries most of the wheel loads and the drive loads. In the twin-shock design there were separate ring gear and wheel bearings.

How big is that can of liquid moly? Shouldn't you be concerned about overfilling?

I notice you did not use a torque wrench when replacing the drain plugs. Any reason for this?

William, I’m in UK and have a ‘93 R80RT so very interested in this series. I noticed you didn’t go into too much detail about the oil filter O ring compression. As I understand it, because canister depths can vary a lot, in order to get the right O ring compression you measure the canister depth (below the case surface) and use a combination of shim and gasket to get the right O ring compression. The infamous $2000 O ring ? Any comments ?

I am trying to find a video on snycing the 40mm bing carbs with the twinmax unit. I can't find where to attach the hoses from the twinmax to the carb.... whaaa....

Can someone please tell me what tool is needed to loosen the engine oil drain plug? It looks like an allen bolt, not sure what size mm is needed? any other size wrenches needed for this oil change job? Thanks!

Hi William,greetings from Scotland. A question about the tube of Liqui Moly gearbox additive you suggested using. I have R100rt Monolever1993 model, and have just changed both Engine oil and Final Drive oils.All good but will adding half the tube to the final drive now push the oil level too high?,and can the other half be put in the Engine oil ? ,thank you, Richard.

I noticed that the side stand automatically detracts when you lift the bike, mine doesn't work that way what am I missing?

The comment is that the R80RT is outmoded for touring because "of the way traffic is today." If you're touring with traffic, you're not touring, in my opinion. The R80RT and R100RT are still ideal bikes for touring on the back roads. They're crappy on the Interstate Highway, but Interstate riding is for the birds anyway.